okay so yesterday i installed my new jardine and it sounds bitchin', and today i put in the k&n drop in and did a total snorkel lobotomy. i know its important to tune the carb and rejet so i have some questions. on lancers guide to easy carb tuning he refers to an idle adjustment screw and a pilot adjusting screw. here are pictures of each side of my carb. can someone point these out to me please?



If im not mistaken the screw on the very bottom of that picture is the idle adjust but where is the pilot adjust? is it on this side?



these are things i should know anyways when im out on the road so rather than paying someone to do it i want to become familiar with it myself. until a few weeks ago id only put a wrench up to a truck, never a motorcycle. also in the white spacer technical document it states:

"Getting back to your Savage 650, Coney, here's how we can specifically cure its problem. We need to richen those two areas of the carburetion curve that are factory set on the ridiculous side of leanness. Remove the diaphragm slide from the carburetor and look down inside its bore. Two small screws hold a plate over the slide needle.

Removing the plate, you'll see a small, white plastic spacer with a hole through it sitting on top of the needle. Throw that spacer away and reinstall the plate. A spring under the needle clip will now push the needle up to the plate occupying the space vacated by the white spacer. The distance that the needle has been 'lifted' is the thickness of the discarded spacer - and that's ideal. With the needle raised, more fuel will flow by it, meeting the actual needs of midrange running.

We can also fatten up the low end of your bike's carburetor by turning out the low-speed mixture screw. To gain access to this screw, you'll need to drill out the brass plug pressed in over it and yank it out with a sheet-metal screw attached to a slide hammer. You'll find that plug up high on the right side of the carb about where the mouth enters the carburetor. Usually Suzuki applies a splash of white paint over the brass plug so that it's immediately noticeable. With the engine warmed up and idling, turn the mixture screw out incrementally until you achieve the highest idle. There will be no doubt in your mind that you're making progress because the idle will come up and sound stronger. At this point, turn the idle adjuster knob out and bring the idle back down to a leisurely gait."

where is the "diaphragm slide", the "plate over the slide needle", the "brass plug"

anything will help! thanks a million! oh and heres a pic of my bike.



pay no attention to the bike in the background. roomate. i get enough $h!t as it is... BTW, i installed the jardine and a new exhause pipe with only the tools provided with the bike. macho man! (tools were in storage. i got them today)

that mixture is right under here

the white spacer lives inside of the slide tube that hangs under the diaphram - some folks remove the carb - me I just remove the seat, drain the tank, remove the fuel petc0ck and remove the tank. Now you have access - you can losen the intake clamps a little and twist the carb enough to remove the diaphram retaining plate plate - really should toss the 4 phillips head screws with allen head stainless(4x12 or 15 mm - can't remember) as the old ones likely striped out anyway - be very careful with the 2 down inside of the slide tube they are tiny but use a new #1 phillips bit on them or they likely strip out

when the slide goes back make sure it is as clean as clean can be - not even 1 oily fingerprint or it will hang on you

I think all this is documented very well in the tech section - but you need to read several postings.

erodelius wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

but worth the effort!!!