I have read and reviewed most everything here ref tackling the infamous oil leaks that occure with the Savage.

I would like those with the experience to flag for me the one or two items that could cause me a problem as I tear down the bike. I have the Clymer manual and help from my brother. Neither of us have done work on a motorcycle engine only cars.

I have a 96 that I bought last summer with only 4400 miles on it. I'm assuming the head gasket and poss. some other gasket/seals have dry rotted. I was planing on replacing all of them without inspecting them first. Would you all agree?

Thanks for any suggestions or cautions you may have.

Sue

P.S. Oh and thanks to whoever solved my inablity to lock my front fork. I used the trick and it did indeed work.

CLymer book
Watch out for the following mistakes:
Engine rotation : Same as the wheels
Seal the rubber plug with the same stuff you use for the headcover. And further:
Dry the blind tapped holes with a pipecleaner to prevent an hydraulic lock.
Stick to the torque values ( torque in 2 or 3 stages)
Use NEW gaskets and O-rings.

I got long shaft double ended Q-tips type swabs at Radio shack when I wanted to get the oil from the bottom of the blind head cover screw holes. If there is much oil in it it can hydro lock before all the threads are engaged and stip out the top part of the soft aluminum threads. Been there done that. I second using all new copper/rubber washers on the required fasterners (essentally the ones that have oil pressure on them - on showing in the picture is for the compression release shaft so you need 1 less than the picture shows as we do not have to remove that part. ), the pear shaped o-ring and a minumum amount of gasket sealer on the flange of the cover. I used grey moto-seal last time and it seems to be working fine.  Max