borne2fly wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:

Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

In this case, since it ain't been broke in 21 years, there's no need to fix it.

I installed a "pre-oiler" on my RV because it sits unused for long periods of time.  Simple concept, just tap into a pressure line (preferably after the oil filter so you catch "clean" oil), add a valve and a container that will hold oil at about 100 psi.  First startup, open the valve and start the engine wait a minute or two and close the valve then shutoff the engine.  Check the oil level and add to bring up to "normal".  Then, just open the valve before you start and if you have a pressure gauge, you'll see the oil pressure before you start.  Now, just start it up, and close the valve before shutdown and you're ready for the next start.  A system like this could be added to the savage on the front oil pressure port where some of us have tapped in for the oil cooler.  Then you'd only have to start-up without oil pressure whenever you change oil.  Some test results show an 80% reduction in engine wear when an engine is consistently started under oil pressure.

Kropatchek wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:

WAIT!!!!

You have a low pressure oil light?  Is that what the blank space on our speedo is supposed to be?

Yeah...European models had light switches.  What else do they have?

Is there some kind of virus going around?

That pressure port is direct from the oil pump.  Wouldn't you need to install a check valve for the oil to flow into the engine and tranny?  Also would be a nice place to get extra volume.

The drawback of an extra oil pump is more moving parts and more expense for decreased reliability.  All of the electric oil pumps I found that would be suitable cost $200+ and won't handle the abuse my system will handle.  My system can easily be made for around $30-$50, and is proven to work nearly indefinitely.  You can pre-pressurize my system if you want to.  Just take out the standard air valve, fill with oil, replace valve and pressurize with a standard air pump.  I can regulate pressure and the amount of oil that resides in the tank.  An oil pump has several failure modes, a pressurized canister can only fail if it springs a leak but it experiences no wear except for the valve.  I have an electric valve that allows flow into the tank anytime but only releases pressure when actuated.  The only thing that's really needed is a manual ball-valve.  The only real drawback of an air-pressurized system is over time, the air will disipate by infuzing thru the oil.  Eventually all the air will be displaced with oil and the pressurizing effect stops.  Therefore, everytime I change the oil, I completely purge the system of oil with an air pump.

Here's an example to look at to get the creative juices flowing:  http://www.atk-engines.com/oiler.pdf

Quote:


Verslagen, are you refering to the oil plug in the front bottom of the case?  If so, yes it does come directly from the oil pump, and no I don't think you'd need to do much to ensure oil flows to the head.  The oil pump is mechanically driven and will resist (not completely stop) oil flowing back thru it.  This will require a little extra oil to flow to ensure oil to the head, but that's the same principle my system works on.  After my RV has sat for a few months, it may take 30 seconds or so for the oil to completely pressurize the system, but my oil pressure gauge always reads 40 psi or greater before I crank it over.  I'm tapped into my system right after the oil pump as well.