Ok, id like to start workin on my bike a little on my own. I dont have a very good set of tools at all. If you had to buy a small set of tools for easy jobs what would it be? I need something not very complicated, not very expensive and that works well with the savage. Thanks! -DOC

Make sure you buy a metric set,and buy an exta #10
for general stuff it seems like I use the @10 more than any other,seat and gas tank just to name two items.

I'd add a 24mm socket, if the set does not come with one. (unlikely that it would).
That's for the rear axle.. needed to adjust belt tension, or to remove the rear wheel for any purpose.
You CAN use the knuckle buster wrench from the tool kit, if you really want to.

If you go to one of the big box stores, or wal-mart, look through the kits with their own molded plastic case.  Guy I work with has a Crescent mechanic's kit he paid 80 bux for that is, I gotta say, very complete.  

Really and truly you're going to need

regular and deep well metric sockets  of 3/8 and 1/4 drive
4", 6", and 8" extensions for 3/8 and 1/4 drive
3/8 to 1/4 drive converter
3/8 drive universal joint
18mm spark plug wrench
boxed end and offset wrenches(I never use offsets, but I always want to buy em)
metric Allen wrench set
about a BAJILLION zip ties
JB Weld
black tape
plumber's teflon tape(easier than loc-tite)
Red RTV
a small impact driver
screwdrivers of various sizes, Phillips #2 #3, square #3, etc
Spark plug gapper.

I have a 1/2" torque wrench, but it's for my wheel bolts on my Audi.  Get a deep well 17mm and a regular 32mm in whatever size ratchet you like so you can pop your rear wheel loose.

Start with something simple, like a really good mechanic's tool kit from Stanley, Crescent, or something.  Don't go too expensive, that way you won't feel bad if you change a spark plug at a gas station and lose a screwdriver.  CHEAP RATCHETS SUCK.  Avoid them like a syphilitic wh0re.

I have all kinds of tools, expensive & cheap. Some places cheap tools are fine, somepleces, Not so fine. I havent seen a place on the bike that requires the finest of tools. It's not put togethjer that tight. here's a list of tyhings I am sure will make your day easier.
Needle nose pliers, for hose clamps, small channel locks, for the speedo, small crescent wrench, for backup on duble nut spots.
A full set of allen wrenches, OR at least 2 1/2 mm, 4, 5, & 6 mm. 21/2 is for rear light lens. 10 mm 1/4 drive sockets, short & deep, just for convenience, a wobble attachment & a couple of different length extensions. 8mm socket for pulling case off.I like having a big enough crescent to actuate the clutch arm as it goes into the case, so I can release the clutch cable without disturbing any adjustments, just open the little door on the inverted saddle the cable is in & (using the wrench) swing the arm up so the cable is slack & pull it out. 17 mm socket for the r/f footpeg mount & a 12 mm backup, socket is much easier than endwrench, due to shape of area.
I have a Proto 1/2" torque wrench, but at such low torque settings it reall isnt that accurate. Torque wrencehes arent very accurate at the very bottom or top of their scales. I went with the "El Cheapo" Sears torsion bar 3/8ths inch. Under $30.00 & will do the job fine as far as I am concerned. I always had a bad attitude about that design, but for this work I think it will be okay. The torque sttings in the book say things like, 10 to 11.5 foot pounds, low enough to not worry much either way.& 65 to 79.5 pounds/foot, heck, cant be out of callibration that far. & 36 to 50.5 pounds on another. I think itb will be fine. A flashlight is very good to have O course & a magnetic screwdriver with bits in the handle for quick changes. Also, I use mine to retrieve the feeler gauge blades I always drop when I am doing the valves. A set of feeler gauges, 3 4 & 5 thousandths are what we need, I remove those 3 from the rest & bend a 90 in them about an inch back from the end & then roll a ski tip into the very tip, so it goes under the valve adjuster more easily. With an offset screwdriver( anothe 2.50 at sears, or less at the pawn shop) if you can find one that a slotted type on both ends you will be ahead, you can control the valve adjuster while yoiu tighten the set nut. I adjusted the valves 3 times before I found thins. Now it's a lot easier. A 3/8ths to 1/4 adapter will let the torque wrench work with the 1/4 sockets. Using the wobble will affect the reading on the torque wrench, or so I hear, so I dont use them together. The bikes tools have what is needed for the rear axle, so not going there. Eventually a 30 & 32 mm socket will be needed for clutch & cam chain. Small chissel & decent punch for straightening out folded tabs on keeper washers, then too. An inexpensive digital readout set of 6" callipers is very nice to have. I think a dependable set (digital) is less expensive than a DEPendable dial calliper. The works of the dial being more sophisticated than an electronic readout. My opinion, based on not one report or statement of fact, anyone else have a thought there? I have a digital 6" calliper I gave about $20.00 & it does mm & inch. A couple of wrenches that fit the spokes would be a good idea. 15/64ths fits, but a metric size might too, I have to go so Later all!

verslagen1 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:



AGREED .... that is why the ball end is on the long side.... short side is for torquing things tight and for breaking things loose.