justin_o_guy
Ex Member
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I have all kinds of tools, expensive & cheap. Some places cheap tools are fine, somepleces, Not so fine. I havent seen a place on the bike that requires the finest of tools. It's not put togethjer that tight. here's a list of tyhings I am sure will make your day easier. Needle nose pliers, for hose clamps, small channel locks, for the speedo, small crescent wrench, for backup on duble nut spots. A full set of allen wrenches, OR at least 2 1/2 mm, 4, 5, & 6 mm. 21/2 is for rear light lens. 10 mm 1/4 drive sockets, short & deep, just for convenience, a wobble attachment & a couple of different length extensions. 8mm socket for pulling case off.I like having a big enough crescent to actuate the clutch arm as it goes into the case, so I can release the clutch cable without disturbing any adjustments, just open the little door on the inverted saddle the cable is in & (using the wrench) swing the arm up so the cable is slack & pull it out. 17 mm socket for the r/f footpeg mount & a 12 mm backup, socket is much easier than endwrench, due to shape of area. I have a Proto 1/2" torque wrench, but at such low torque settings it reall isnt that accurate. Torque wrencehes arent very accurate at the very bottom or top of their scales. I went with the "El Cheapo" Sears torsion bar 3/8ths inch. Under $30.00 & will do the job fine as far as I am concerned. I always had a bad attitude about that design, but for this work I think it will be okay. The torque sttings in the book say things like, 10 to 11.5 foot pounds, low enough to not worry much either way.& 65 to 79.5 pounds/foot, heck, cant be out of callibration that far. & 36 to 50.5 pounds on another. I think itb will be fine. A flashlight is very good to have O course & a magnetic screwdriver with bits in the handle for quick changes. Also, I use mine to retrieve the feeler gauge blades I always drop when I am doing the valves. A set of feeler gauges, 3 4 & 5 thousandths are what we need, I remove those 3 from the rest & bend a 90 in them about an inch back from the end & then roll a ski tip into the very tip, so it goes under the valve adjuster more easily. With an offset screwdriver( anothe 2.50 at sears, or less at the pawn shop) if you can find one that a slotted type on both ends you will be ahead, you can control the valve adjuster while yoiu tighten the set nut. I adjusted the valves 3 times before I found thins. Now it's a lot easier. A 3/8ths to 1/4 adapter will let the torque wrench work with the 1/4 sockets. Using the wobble will affect the reading on the torque wrench, or so I hear, so I dont use them together. The bikes tools have what is needed for the rear axle, so not going there. Eventually a 30 & 32 mm socket will be needed for clutch & cam chain. Small chissel & decent punch for straightening out folded tabs on keeper washers, then too. An inexpensive digital readout set of 6" callipers is very nice to have. I think a dependable set (digital) is less expensive than a DEPendable dial calliper. The works of the dial being more sophisticated than an electronic readout. My opinion, based on not one report or statement of fact, anyone else have a thought there? I have a digital 6" calliper I gave about $20.00 & it does mm & inch. A couple of wrenches that fit the spokes would be a good idea. 15/64ths fits, but a metric size might too, I have to go so Later all!
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