I've read the thread started by wvchoppers on front brake squeeling, and although my topic is related, I thought a separate thread was warranted.

I've had a squeel since day one (I have a 2005), but that didn't bother me.

But now, with only 2,300 miles on my bike, I have a loud GRINDING noise from my front brake. It's so loud that drivers and pedestrians look my way when I really apply the front brakes and come to a full stop.

I used my back brake only whenever I could as I was out running errands last night. And for safety reasons, that's not a habit I want to get into.

Also, about 50% of the time, after I start up from a full stop (after using the front brake) I hear a small grinding sound from the front brake for a while, as if the pads are still making slight contact with the disk.

I can stop this noise by very slightly engaging the front brake and letting go of the brake lever.

So is there an adjustment I can make, perhaps? The calipers are out of whack, maybe? Can I do something to the surface of the pads or the disk?

Anyone know?

Thanks.

Cheers. Tammi

You could have a pebble, or some kind of debri hanging in the pad, or caliper. Try hitting it with a high pressure hose at a carwash, it might clean it out.

Otherwise, if it keeps grinding, it's time to pull the caliper and further inspect.

Maybe the pads are shot (and if they are, DO NOT ride until everything is fixed)...if there are deep gouges in the brake rotor, you have no other choice but to replace it.

Hope this helps

A total brake fluid change so early would be going a bit overboard I would think, but, it wuldnt hurt a thing as long as you are up to the bleed job.
From what I could gather from your post, you believe front brake only is the safest way to stop. If so, I hope you do some homework in that area. A balanced use of fron & rear brake is (MY opinion based on what I have read AND discovered in my experience) the quickest most stable way to stop quickly. It requires a touch & the rear brake on the Suzuki will quickly lock up. I went into the raer brake & removed about 1/2 of the brake shoe contact surface, so the brake requires a lot more pedal input before it will lock up.
I expect those crummy stock brake pads are shot. IF there are light grooves in the rotor, you can get some sand paper & smooth them a bit or , MY choice is to stick some cheap pads on & ride, using the brake hard & allowong the pads to rub the rough stuff down & then, with the 8neven but smooth surface, I actually have an increased surface area for my pads to grab, ONLY after the pad is fully seated into the grooves. Then, after it is smoothed by the sacrificial pads, I put good ones on & be CAREFUL till the yave seated in the grroves. I sis this on cars many times & had brakes better than anyone in town. Raced & stopped & other guys couldnt get em shut down near as fast when it was time.. I know this works, BUT it is dangerous till they seat. Be careful iof you go this way.

pop it apart and make sure the slide pins are lubed up and let it move free - wouldn't be suprised if one pad - the outside is worn down heavy on one end if these pins are binding

Just did mine EBC "red".  Haven't back on the road yet, so can't tell you how they perform.

It's very easy to do.  Just break loose the 2 caliper bolts and the single allen head in the center before you disassmemble anything.  

The only advise I can give you over what anyone else has said is be very carefull when pushing back the piston.  Do not c0ck it to one side.  Push it back evenly and straight.  It will save you a lot of hassles if you do.  I've had to rebuild a few in the past and have seen where someone had appearently c0cked it and had put a mark in the piston.  This mark will be a leak.

My technique is to use a big flat bladed screwdriver in an unusual way.  I twist it.  Leave both pads in place, you'll need a chunk of metal as a spacer, I use the center of a large combo wrench.  Place the widest spot of the screwdriver in the center of the pad and on the wrench.  Then twist it, the cam action will push the piston back easily.  

c clamp on the pad works well for moving back pistons as well.

WOW    Those new pads aint gonna last long if you didnt replace the rotor....not only is the metal backing of the pad worn down, so is the thickness of your front brake rotor...VERY dangerous !

Please change your rotor, it's way cheaper than being thrown over the handlbars when you really dont want to.

you can mic it - do you have one handy?

normal looks to be .17-.19 service limit of .16