SuzukiSavage.com - Front brake GRINDING!

verslagen1

YaBB Moderator
ModSquad

Online

Where there's a
will, I want to be
in it.

Posts: 28884
L.A. California
Gender: male

Re: Front brake GRINDING!
Reply #30 - 05/07/07 at 09:06:07

If you have a couple of ball bearings (new or very clean) you can make yourself a ball end mic out of your digital calliper.

Take one and tape it to the measuring side of the jaw, as far out as you can on the flat portion.

And tape the other on the other jaw directly opposite.

You can tape over the measuring side of the ball, but best not to for accuracy.

Close the jaws and zero the caliper for measuring the distance between the two. For those with dials and verniers... you'll have to subtract this measurement from what you measure.

Now you'll be able to measure the thinner parts of the disk. Of course you need a point mic to measure the depths of the grooves. Grin

Back to top

Versey's Place
Tech Section Index

IP Logged

Max_Morley

Serious Thumper

Offline

LT650 Luxury Touring
& sidecar rig

Posts: 1490
Moses Lake. WA
Gender: male

Re: Front brake GRINDING!
Reply #31 - 05/07/07 at 10:12:39

I put 17K miles on my 96 (w/31+K total) with some pretty hard pads (the ones painted green - they still had a season to go) and measured my rotor when I put the red ones in last month. It was about the middle of the wear area, so I'd guess Tammi is going to be OK. I'm a big guy and the bike is set up like a bagger so is heavier, but I usually don't ride very aggresively and have to brake hard.

An idea for the measurement, any motorcycle shop or shop that does brake work will have the micrometer and should charge very litttle to measure the rotor for you. I think the unusual wear pattern could be caused by the forks not being parallel slightly, which also may have accounted for the original squeak. I'd loosen the bottom triple tree clamps bolts and the large top nut and cycle the forks a couple of times with the wheel straight ahead and then carefully tighten them with the wheel still straight. Have your apprentice sit on the bike and hold it upright while you do that.

While we are on brakes, I strongly recommend the stainless steel wrapped line after 3 years or so on the OE line or earlier if you want a more linear brake action, the wrap minimizes the line swell. Also don't forget to flush the fluid every 3 years to get the fluid that has absorbed moisture out. If you live/ride in high humidity areas then every 2 years. Max

Back to top

Max at Thumper Acres. '96 Savage bagger, '03 Savage w/Cozy sidecar for wifeni.

IP Logged

georgekathe Ex Member	Re: Front brake GRINDING! Reply #32 - 05/07/07 at 10:30:01 the (clymers) manual recommends replacing fluid every 4 years but wonder how many do it & don't see why not do it every 3 years (BMW say do it yearly on the R1100RT)? as far as steel braid line - can't say how it improved my brakes as diod it same time as went to ebc pads & put in new fluid so hard to quantify what did what.
Back to top	IP Logged

Savage_Rob

Serious Thumper
Alliance Member

Offline

Mechanically
Inclined Amateur

Posts: 6972
Texas (Dallas area)
Gender: male

Re: Front brake GRINDING!
Reply #33 - 05/07/07 at 11:01:29

georgekathe wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:

the (clymers) manual recommends replacing fluid every 4 years but wonder how many do it & don't see why not do it every 3 years (BMW say do it yearly on the R1100RT)? as far as steel braid line - can't say how it improved my brakes as diod it same time as went to ebc pads & put in new fluid so hard to quantify what did what.

I did the braided stainless line separately from the pads and I can say the brakes are noticeably more solid (less squishy).

Back to top

IP Logged

verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Online Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28884 L.A. California Gender:	Re: Front brake GRINDING! Reply #34 - 05/07/07 at 13:39:07 I could see replacing yearly now that I've done it. Takes less than half of the small can. And they recommend you don't keep an old can for very long. So why not replace it. The brown stuff I took out of mine convinced me. Might change my mind though, now that I have steel lines.
Back to top	Versey's Place Tech Section Index IP Logged

georgekathe

Ex Member

Re: Front brake GRINDING!
Reply #35 - 05/07/07 at 13:47:32

don't see replacing fluid as being something you need to do Tammi by any means (somehow this thread veered off on it) but steel brake line is a good mod to consider for around $50. of course then @ same time you need to replace the fluid!

the tech section has piece on how to do former - help can be got on this site on how to do latter - I found it a 2 person job - me copntrollong bleed valve & keeping piece of tube in jar of fluid, friend squeezing brake lever.

Back to top

IP Logged

Oldfeller2

Senior Member

Offline

I love YaBB 1G -
SP1!

Posts: 323

Gender: male

Re: Front brake GRINDING!
Reply #36 - 05/07/07 at 17:59:33

Tammi,

Ride your bike and see how it feels.

Your brake lever will most likely seem "squishy" at first because your new pads haven't seated to the rotor and you haven't gotten your anti-squeal stuff settled in yet, so don't get bummed out by that initial mushy feel to the lever. That's kinda normal for new pads with anti-squeal compound on them.

Mine did that right at first too. It will get better in a bit.

It will take 50 miles or so to get your full "firm" feel back when you hit the brakes hard. That anti-squeal goop we put on the backs of our pads has got to settle in completely before it stops acting/feeling like mud in the works.

You aren't going to feel a "pulsing" unless your rotors are really screwed up and no, your rotor isn't going to blow up on you in any kind of normal use on a Savage. We don't have the engine power and braking speed to drive a front brake/rotor explosion -- it just ain't there for a Savage.

Oldfeller

Back to top

IP Logged