In the "Remove reverse ring in header" thread I already explained how I messed up my header, but will again here in a minute. For now, I just want to say, ARRGGHHH! & if anyone has any ideas on how to get a single walled header that will be a performance boost & that will allow me to keep my Supertrapp then please, share that..

Here's what I did, that Tbalam Didnt do. I parted the inner & outer headr walls. I was trying to slice the reverse ring off of the inner wall & went thru, all the way around. No wonder it was so much work! I can take it & have it brazed or welded, but that would mean spending $$ on a header I really want to replace anyway. BUT, it's beautiful weather & I dont want to be down while I shop & wait on a header, so, I need to get the shopping done in a Right Now kinda way. Any suggestions?

I really want a better header, but I have so much $$$ in the Supertrapp I can justify going with a header with an exit too large to keep it, unless the header Comes with an exhaust on it, then I could sell the Ttrapp..

Not sure of the measurement, but it went straight on the stock header, so it's the same as the stock muffler going In, What pipe would you suggest I get to replace the stocker?
Also, if I am gonna have to ship it both ways, I can most likely get this one brazed for that kinda $$, not sure, man I messed in my mess kit,,

Not seeing how that's gonna fix the BooBoo I pulled T, the innards of the header wiggle back & forth, I seperated the inner wall from the outter wall, so the exhaust will go in between & then reverbrate back out right back into the exhaust port, which, if I am right here, will be very counterproductive,,, LOL,, I will have to have it brazed up, or welded, I bet brazing is cheaper, I dunno,, using gas costs, brazing rods cost, welding rods are cheap 7 it shouldnt take 2 to fix it. Ill just have to call around. If its too high, lancer has offered a loaner pipe if I pay the freight, Imagine! He expects ME to pay the freight! I am Shokkt I tell ya..

How about you dremel a few slices in the outer tube and then clamp/crush it down to the inner tube, then unclamp and slide on your muffler and clamp it onto the crushed area.

Or, can you wedge a few nails between the two pipes to stop the rattle and get an automotive muffler pipe adapter/reducer to slide over the pipe and then slide your muffler over the smaller end.

best luck,
serowbot

Yeeouch!  Sorry.  

I have since cut it into 3 pieces & pulled the inner pipe, IF the .045 thick (thin) wall will weld & hold for a decent while, I will do that for now & ride iit, ugleee as Frankenstein till it rusts out/ burns up. Then get a Lancer built pipe. IF the thing lasts thru the new cam chain, then I would do the piston, cam chain & whether the danged Ol pipe was still hangin in there or not, replace it with a "Longer than stock" unit from Lancer & maximize the low end( is that where it is Lancer?) Surely. .045 will last a year. I can get a stinger on it & mahe it longer & extend the rear support a bit, tho it looks to need to move away from the tire if it's going back. That will require a bit of a kink in the pipe,