So, holding the throttle open so its wound up pretty good does it die then if ya push the choke back in? I dont know how much cleaning you did or how careful you were, but I get the feeling you understand how importsnt it is to have "operating room" level of cleanliness in the carb. I dont know what the book says about setting the carb up. Is it stock? Whatever it is, one of these guys will get it I betchya,, Or one of these women might.

One thing to keep in mind is that carb is OVER 20 YEARS OLD.  Carbs just don't last that long.  I'd look into buying a new one from lancer....

not much a relatively neophite when it comes to touching carbs such as I can add to those who already made suggestions but in case you don't know only get carb cleaner on non rubber & such parts of the carb (sounds  like you may know this anyway from what yoiu've already said/done if so, apologies).

I can echo part about getting an inline fuel filter - I got as big a one as I could fit/get & got a clear one so I could see if it got gunked up & caused me problems  down the road.

also, welcome to the site - you'll get lots of help & info from those who frequent it!  

From: bavila      on: Today at 6:32pm
I guess I was hoping you could elaborate on my little problem with my 86 savage.  

I did have rust in my tank but I etched it out and sealed it again so there is no rust any more.  I knew my low speed carb was getting cloged with rest so I took apart the carb and dipped every peace that didn't have plastic in it and cleaned the living hell out of the carb.  I then put it back together and I now have the problem that I have now.  I won't start "normally", meaning the choke has to be pulled out all the way for the bike to idea anywhere normal  and if I push in the choke the bike sputters and dies.

So what you are saying is that I should dismantle the carb once again and clean it the way you said to clean it.  You said use carb spray.  Like what kind and how?  I used a huge can of carb cleaner and just dipped everything.  

Then you said I should get a inline filter?  I don't know much about adding stuff to bikes I just know the workings and stuff.  What is the inline filter and what is it going to do for me?



The one on the left is an inline fuel filter.  It just slips into the fuel line between the petc0ck and the carburetor.  If you get one, make sure it's clear so you can see when it's clogged, etc.  

The fuel line on my bike was original, I'm pretty sure.  After 21 years, the original fuel lines for these bikes begins flaking off into the fuel as it goes into the carb.  If you flushed and sealed the tank, I'd say replace the fuel line as well, just so you know that little flecks of black rubber aren't clogging your carb.  

There are a lot of other possibilities, but I would say you need to check anything that's going to starve the engine of fuel.    

The idle could be set too low, definitely check that.  Hard to describe where the idle should be on this bike.  I like my idle pretty low.

Air filter clean?



Spark plug gapped to .033?  Not fouled?  Tightened down to flatten the little metal ring?  These are all things I've had to diagnose since I got my bike.

 If it's starting and dying, that means you have me totally beat for the first three days I had my bike.  When I got my bike, it wouldn't even start.  

Start at the easy part and move toward the rear.  

Gas is in the tank
Gas is clean all the way to the carb
Carb is clean
Air is clean to the carb
Carb is clean
Carb mixes air and fuel well
Fuel moves to the cylinder ok
Plug fires correctly
Exhaust isn't clogged...  

The best part about this bike is, there's only one cylinder.  
Conversely, the worst part about this bike is, there's only one cylinder.

Diagnosing the problem is easier than a four cylinder anything.  Making sure it won't break and leave you on the side of the road is harder, because with that same four cylinder you could limp somewhere that had tools and lighting and no rain.

Since I've gotten my bike going, and gotten 20x better at working on it, I can diagnose and repair a lot on the side of the road.  Rest easy knowing that once you do get your little bike running, you won't be one of those guys scratching his head in the Wal-Mart parking lot.  You'll be the guy walking 2 blocks to get the DPR8EA NGK and a 20A fuse, and still making it to work on time.

Is this bike all stock?
There's been a number of great carb threads lately that would apply to you.
But check all the hoses to make sure they are correctly routed.  One guy had the vacuum line routed from the petc0ck to the bowl drain.  I know you don't have a tube connection there, this is just an example.
Check the petc0ck for proper operation.  If the vacuum line is old and hard it may have cracked and won't let enough gas thru.  Remove the drain bolt and let it drain into a pan.  Does it stop?  if it doesn't replace needle valve or adjust float height.  Put the petcock in prime, does it start to flow again?  If it doesn't, check the petc0ck for obstruction.  Return the valve to run and replace the drain bolt.  Return it to prime, start your engine, do you still need choke?  If so, I think you need to clean the carb.  Check each orafice and every passage.  Good luck  

I think what I am going to do is take apart the carb again and clean it.  And replace all the hoses.  

Is there anything else that I can do besides let the carb sit in the dipping can?

And were is a good place to buy fuel hoses and line?  

And were can I find a good diagram for all my vacum hoses, I am pretty sure I ran them correctly but I want to make sure.

You can get fuel lines from any auto parts store, just bring in a sample of your old lines so they can match the size.

As to a replacement gasket, that I don't know, maybe try the suzi dealer in your area.