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HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step) (Read 1355 times)
HighME32
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #15 - 10/28/18 at 19:52:22
 
Thanks Verslagen! Last question, did you put 3 bond around the side seal cap that covers the camshaft? I think I read it in your notes, but read in clymer and saw a vid where they said not to.  I also saw suggestions for using 3 bond to stick the figure 8 Oring to the cover. Do you recommend that too?
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #16 - 10/28/18 at 20:11:46
 
HighME32 wrote on 10/28/18 at 19:52:22:
Thanks Verslagen! Last question, did you put 3 bond around the side seal cap that covers the camshaft? I think I read it in your notes, but read in clymer and saw a vid where they said not to.  I also saw suggestions for using 3 bond to stick the figure 8 Oring to the cover. Do you recommend that too?

Yes, it can't hurt.
And generally, people put way too much rtv on.  this squeezes out and blocks the passage.  which is disaster for the oil flow in your head.  A thin layer is what you want and done right is all you need to hold the oring in place.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #17 - 10/29/18 at 15:06:49
 
verslagen1 wrote on 10/28/18 at 20:11:46:
people put way too much rtv on.


I once had a guy use like half a dozen tubes on a Ford 300 6cyl. He even used it on the head gasket. 10 miles down the road and the engine locked up. Oil sump was completely plugged. There was blue goop in the radiator. He was not a happy camper when I told him it would be cheaper to replace the van than to fix it.
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« Last Edit: 10/29/18 at 19:09:45 by verslagen1 »  

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HighME32
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #18 - 10/29/18 at 19:06:52
 
So I finally bolted her back together. I chose not to put 3 bond on the rails close to the cam in the middle of the head. I figured it is too risky and oil should travel freely in there anyway. Is that a mistake? I didn't see corresponding rails on the underside of the head cover.I have seen videos of others gooping the crap out of those rails with permatex. I went with the closest I could get to a pencil sized bead. I did go around all of the bolt holes though.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #19 - 10/29/18 at 19:35:13
 
I did a similar gasket pattern to this German guy. Not sure what it means: http://www.ls650.de/techdocs/steuerkette/ZX2.html
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #20 - 09/18/22 at 12:28:39
 
I am getting ready to put this all back together shortly, with great trepidation.  I have read every word of this topic several times.  I have one question which does not appear to be addressed anywhere, so here goes:

Why in the name of all that is holy didn't Suzuki make a gasket to go between the head cover and the head?  It would eliminate all of this concern about getting goop in the camshaft journals (someone did that to mine before).  There would be no time constraints for reassembly, and I think (think) the torquing process would be far simpler.

Why Santy Claus?  Why?  Please enlighten me, thank you.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #21 - 09/18/22 at 12:55:01
 
LPHRN wrote on 09/18/22 at 12:28:39:
Why in the name of all that is holy didn't Suzuki make a gasket to go between the head cover and the head?  It would eliminate all of this concern about getting goop in the camshaft journals (someone did that to mine before).  There would be no time constraints for reassembly, and I think (think) the torquing process would be far simpler.


Quite possibly because of the cam journals.
With gaskets you're probably not going to get the tolerance of fit the way you can with rtv.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #22 - 09/18/22 at 12:59:39
 
HighME32 wrote on 10/29/18 at 19:35:13:
I did a similar gasket pattern to this German guy. Not sure what it means: http://www.ls650.de/techdocs/steuerkette/ZX2.html


I do use a similar pattern, but include the 2 bolts holes on the other side of the cam chain and also around the far side locator pin.  This simply gives all bolted areas a level playing field and also sealing around each bolt which might cause a leak.

I also apply rtv around the cam plug and stock head plug too.  But it is not needed if you use the VersiPlug.

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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #23 - 09/18/22 at 18:48:17
 
verslagen1 wrote on 09/18/22 at 12:55:01:
LPHRN wrote on 09/18/22 at 12:28:39:
Why in the name of all that is holy didn't Suzuki make a gasket to go between the head cover and the head?  It would eliminate all of this concern about getting goop in the camshaft journals (someone did that to mine before).  There would be no time constraints for reassembly, and I think (think) the torquing process would be far simpler.


Quite possibly because of the cam journals.
With gaskets you're probably not going to get the tolerance of fit the way you can with rtv.


Are you thinking of lateral tolerance, how close the RTV gets to the camshaft journals?  Or vertical, how thick it is and therefore how much clearance there is in the camshaft/journal lubricating passage?  Looking at the picture supplied by the German fellow, that isn't very much RTV, and it isn't very close to the journals.  Would that be enough?  

And, would it be foolhardy to not re-torque the head nuts before reassembly?
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #24 - 12/01/23 at 13:49:16
 
On the HeadPattern photo (reply 13), I don't see L75 (chroming bolt).  The Clymer manual omits it as well.  Did I miss something????
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #25 - 12/01/23 at 19:22:12
 
That is a good question.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #26 - 12/01/23 at 20:07:31
 
ThumperPaul wrote on 12/01/23 at 13:49:16:
On the HeadPattern photo (reply 13), I don't see L75 (chroming bolt).  The Clymer manual omits it as well.  Did I miss something????


I always thought that it's a typo. there are 3 chroming bolts, 2 denoted as C25 and 1 denoted as C20 and those are used to retain the chrome top pieces.
So C75 should really be C20.
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Re: R&R Head Plug only
Reply #27 - 12/13/23 at 08:56:37
 
verslagen1 wrote on 07/09/16 at 11:30:47:
Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 10/30/09 at 08:23:09:
Print out the bolt map, then tape it to a junk box top and cut some "X" patterns in the bolt holes so you can poke each bolt through its picture to save it and its washer in a nice logical fashion.  

Note the L65 and L70 have colored circles around them.  This is to remind you that you have to have them sitting in place when you put the head cover back on or you are soooooo screwed that you have to take it off and do all it over again.  Keep your washers with the screws and do not mix up any washer types/sizes.

=============

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/HeadPattern01web1.jpg

This image is a direct link to a full size printable that was originally posted by Savage Greg.  

While you are busy getting ready, print out this item that was originally provided by Digger -- they are retorque order maps of the head cover that might be useful to you.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/combo_torque_map.jpg

================

Now that you have your 2 pieces of paper in hand, let's go to work!


Does someone have access to the Torque Map?  Link to old photo is dead.  I have the head diagram ready to go.  Thanks.
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