I've been getting lots of "tell me about it" questions. I apologize for the pix and documentation having been a little slow in getting put together. However, here's a thumbnail:

I used a one piece, five gallon tank off of one of the 2k or so softail models. There are two holes on the top, right for gas cap and left for their gas gage/gas cap. What I did is put a layer of JB Weld in the bottom of the left hole to seal the pass through holes and stuck in an analog clock I found that fits the hole. There are matching caps you can get for the tank, but they are spendy for the most part. For the right side I went to an auto parts store and found a locking threaded gas cap in black that I can live with the looks of. At near $3 a gallon again I'm carrying enough gas to make it worth someone trying to get it. And I've got a locking cap on the four gallon aux. tank on the back as well.

When you take off the stock tank you need to cut off the two pegs with rubber covers on the side of the frame that hold the tank on. A lot of the wiring needs to be run along the frame and some of the relays and such need to be moved around a bit. I had to move the starting/valve solenoid and the electronic ignition modual (that's attached to the spark plug wire) to different places so the tank would drop down over the frame. It's a snug fit with all the extra wiring (and in my case, speedo cable) The tank sits higher in the back than stock so you get an automatic seat front lift mod. I have a V-Star seat on mine so I don't know the exact effect it'll have on a stock seat.

To attach the tank I had to drill a hole through the diamond shaped piece in the framing a little behind the forks and a little lower than the sticker that's there. At the back there's a long bolt that goes through the original removable seat mounting bracket to the frame that goes through a mounting tab on the back of the tank. The front of the seat tab goes under the back of the tank. On a stock seat you might be having the bolt go through the bolt hole on the front of it.

You can't use the stock tank pet-thang in the Harley tanks. Suzuki's are oval shaped and the Harley's are round. The good news is that there are inexpensive vacuum pet-thangs for Hawgs and the in-tank fuel filters are the cheapest Harley parts you'll ever buy.

The only really annoying thing about the tank swap is the crossover line you need to use across the front of the tank. I ended up using two fuel cut off valves in line around the front of the fork pass-through. It has to be disconnected every time the tank comes off. The two valves need to be closed, one clamp/hose end needs to be removed and a couple teaspoons of gas have to drip out to get the tank off. Not bad, but annoying. I've not given up on a better solution.

As I mentioned above I'm using a speedometer cable under the tank. I moved the stock speedo up to the handle bars. To do that I used a short PVC pipe connector (use paint designed for plastic on it) that fit the speedo housing perfectly and a tach cable from a Suzuki three cyl. bike of several years ago that's a perfect length. I put the lights up there too, but am going to move them down to the top of the tank soon.

Hope this gives you some info you need,

JC

Jack in the Aerostich catalog I recieved today they have quick disconnect fuel lines #3572  1/4" for $15 and #3573 5/16" for $16. Max