So I have been stuck for 2 days now and I have looked all over this site for some details that could help but found nothing.

I got the stock muffler off. Finding the two hidden screws behind the heat shield was fun.

Putting the new Trapp on has been more of a challenge however.

I am about a good fingers width away from having it up to the flange of the header pipe.

I've tried using a water based gel, a rubber mallet and a small block of wood to hit against.

I have even tried putting a ice pack around the header and using a blow dryer on the muffler end to see if I could contract / expand the two metals. Nothing seems to work.

I haven't removed my header and am wondering if that makes a difference or not.

But I got the stock muffler off with no problems and without removing the header so I don't think thats an issue.

It simply looks like there is a slight bend on both the stock and trapp pipe.

When I put the pipe up to the header, its just not making that bend. No matter how slight it is...its driving me nuts.

I know its a snug fit but I feel stuck. Any suggestions?

My SuperTrapp went on without modification on my 2002. I had to remove the pipe at the header. This might be the secret.

I had to cut the header off to get the bolts in the rear bracket. Some are running wir\th only 1 bolt ebgaged. Please, note the tpying. I FEEL like I have only one bolt ebngaged. Mine had a bend in it & wouldnt allow the Trapp on anyfurter so I cut it off. I wpuldnt be too shook up about it going all the ay to any flange, as long as there is enough pipe overlapping to get it to seal & the rear bolts line up,, you are good to go. Be careful how much ya whack off. OHHH ,, Man, that looks BAD! Sorry. lol,,

You should have used an acetylene torch and liquid nitrogen...

Just kidding.  Seems like about 50% of us have this kind of trouble.  I really don't think it has to do with the Trapp as much as the stock header though.

Do loosen the header bolts at the head a bit, if you haven't.  But don't remove it.  You already have enough moving parts to deal with.  I don't think the Trapp will slide all the way up on the header flange...or that it is really intended to go all the way.

Since ours went on (snug, I admit), I guess that I can't help much without actually seeing it.  Maybe consider crimping, cutting a short slit or shortening the flange if that will help.  Be careful hammering the Trapp though.

Max_Morley wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


Yeah, you wanna talk about inconsistencies?  Check this out...(might be a little off topic, but I think it relates to Max's idea)

I recently dragged out my old header for a little photo shoot.  Never really looked at it real close, but figured I'd wipe it out for for the camera

Inside the inlet of the stock header is a short reducer ring that's welded in place.  It is actually in addition to the double walled part of the pipe.  It's just a reducer and that's all (could be removed with a grinder to open the exhaust I think).

Notice anything?  First, look at all the weld splatter.  Second...What the heck is that dimple on the left side of the reducer ring?

How's that for consistent manufacturing?

Trapps are tuneable and adjustable by the number of "baffle" disks that you install in the outlet.

Unlike the idea of more baffles equals less noise or flow, it's just the opposite.  The more you add, the louder or better the flow out of the exhaust.  They sandwich under the end cap of the pipe with bolts (in the external ones)

The pipe comes with 8.  As GEO said, if you add more than 6 you'll need to rejet.  The Trapp can have as many as 18 disks installed.

Here's my spouse's with 14...

Update. After several different attempts to get the pipe on, I still kept telling myself I wasn't going to cut it.

And in the end, I didn't have to.

I came up with an idea that was silly to begin with but crap...it worked.

The Trapp has expanding joints already cut in the pipe. The header is simply to thick to do much with (minus cutting it) so I decided to run it down the road a mile just enough to get that baby nice and warm.....but not too hot of course.

I figured since the muffler already had joints cut, it would expand much easier and faster than the header.

So I loosened the bolts and clamp I put on as a temp and gave it a few good wacks with a rubber mallet.

It still didn't get all the way to the flange of the header pipe but it moved just enough to fit real snug and not have any leaks. So I tightened everything up and wa-la.

Note I did settle for only 1 screw, but I am hopeful that it will keep it on tight enough.

I'll still have to monitor it of course but I think its a fix.

Now on to the carb, but its too rainy outside to take it for a stroll. Forecast rain for the next two days......but just the initial start up was well worth the headache.

It went from a Stinger Sewing Machine to an actual bike. The sound quality alone has me excited.

I have the stuff for a rejet already here but I want to wait till I can see the difference with just 6 disks and stock jets.

A friend has an 96 savage with a sportster installed and he was blown away with the sound. I think its going to be fun when I take it for its first test run.

Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:



After getting the pipe on, I haven't had a chance yet to take it out for a test run.  Rain non stop for 2 days now....

What's the need for anti-seize for clamps and 1 T bolt holding it in place? Did I miss something or am I not seeing the whole picture for later down the road.....