justin_o_guy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:DoooWhaaat? Since when do WE allow having no experience cause us to haul stuff tp a pro?
Grab a few pieces O 2x4 & notch the ends of 2 of them. Stick that wheel on the axle & put it in the newly built rack that has the axle level. Use a screwdriver & hold it close to the rim & give the thing a spin. Watch for the rim to move up & down or side to side. Look at the spot on the wheel that is wobbling & adjust spokes to counter the offensive wobbles. I had no experience when I started working on 10 speed wheels & I did get good at it. It's easy, unless the wheel has been damaged. These wheels are beefy enough that much of a bend will be straightened with the spokes & the spokes not be too tight. I wouldn't try that. A minor warp is one thing, a solid smack & a bent rim? Replace it. ( Naturally, if you can get it done cheap enough the whole process is a waste) Question: How many times have you hired someone to do a tedious task that they actually took pains to get it Right? I do this kind of thing myself. You can do it on the bike. Jack it up, pull the belt or not & use the swingarm for a reference. I would rather have the belt off so it will spin easier & allow me to get an idea of the "rhythm"of the wheels distortions. A mental picture of the problem before work starts is good.
And see? That's what I meant. You have experience. I said if you don't. You started on bicycles, not motorcycles. Same concept, big difference unless you're never going over 35. A mental picture is good, if you know what you're looking at
After all, for a wheel to be true you have to consider wobble and concentricity.
I just don't make recommendations to do something that others might perceive as simple. Then they screw it up and blame me
If you are gonna do it...at least cough up $20 for a dial indicator and a base at Harbor Freight. Then at least you might look like a Pro.
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