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chain drive conversion (Read 179 times)
clueless-FSO
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #360 - 04/21/07 at 20:06:48
 
I put the same ratios as you did Hutch. 6' 220lbs. I love it. Stir the box a bit more in town but make up for it on the highway. Much better on the ol mill all in all.
My hat's off to you guys.

Jim
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'96 Black "bed liner" paint.. Ed_L forward controls, HD bars with 1"socket risers, 155 main, pod filter, HD exhaust, punched baffle, modded seat, chain drive conversion, slavy mod
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tbalam
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #361 - 04/21/07 at 20:21:55
 
I agree hutch best money spent on the beast so far, She is a real joy to ride now I don't feel like it is straining anymore.

Clueless, I am about your size as well and it works well with us big guys. I am thinking of going with a 150 rear tire on the next change and if I do I'll go down to a 16 front.
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1996 Mirage paint, seat lift, 2 #4 washers, 155 main, 52.5 pilot. Removed pillon, belt guard, rear blinker mod, moved battery box. K&N cone, Chain conversion 17/43 (in process). Cam tensioner mod.
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clueless-FSO
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #362 - 04/21/07 at 20:34:17
 
tbalm,
The best way to describe the difference is that that gear I've been trying to grab is now THERE. It is kinda like having a 6 speed. Now I can cruise and enjoy it.
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'96 Black "bed liner" paint.. Ed_L forward controls, HD bars with 1"socket risers, 155 main, pod filter, HD exhaust, punched baffle, modded seat, chain drive conversion, slavy mod
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #363 - 04/22/07 at 07:05:52
 
Tbalam, That tire change would be perfect with the 16. That is what Odar did and he said it was perfect. Clueless, I know what you mean. From the time I drove the Savage home from the dealer I kept trying to find that LAST gear. It's there NOW!!!! The little Savage has good torque. I was not sure how it would work out for anyone over 200lbs.  I know what you mean about stirring an extra gear. We went through a lot of small towns along the shoreline, but The Sportster was running in 3rd in town just like me. Actually we were both shifting at about the same time for the whole 200 mile ride. Glad it is working out for everyone.   ENJOY, and RIDE SAFE.      Hutch
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vroom1776
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #364 - 06/14/07 at 13:00:04
 
hey guys!  great work here!

I would like to use the chain drive conversion to make the savage a rocketship up to 80 mph...

sooo that essentailly means hitting 80 mph at redline in 4th (I'm riding a 5 speed). and I want to be able to get the front wheel up easily...

Crucnhed all the numbers... a 13-43 setup has a huge 3.308 ratio... giving 6265 rpm at 83 mph in 4th (assuming the tranny 5/4 ratio 0.956/0.884 = 1.081 I used is right) with the stock tire.   this'll redline me in 1st around 36 mph or so. a 13-50 will redline at about 30 in first, and 75 in 4th..., but ther's no good single sprocket swap out for the freeway...

seems like I could then swap out a 17 front for the freeway.

opinions and recomendations appreciated.
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #365 - 06/14/07 at 13:38:22
 
vroom, It is one of those "can't have your cake and eat it too" situations. A 3.57 would make it a rocket, but you will not want to run the highway. It would be as feasable as trying to drive a funny car on the highway.Running a 15/50 would stiil make it have a lot more accel, and you would still be able to run 55-60 for long distance, definately no interstate 75-80.
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vroom1776
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #366 - 06/14/07 at 13:56:01
 
yeah, I completley get that... The idea in my head is to be able to switch 1 of the two sprockets to convert it from a rocket around town to a decent highway bike.

what do you think of the 13-43?  then I could throw on the 17 for the freeway...  I don't think I'd have quite the power I want at 13-43, but close... Think I'd still be able to get the wheel up?

and now I'm thinking this might kill me...

hmmm... maybe I should shim the clutch springs...

thanks,

V
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #367 - 06/14/07 at 19:15:44
 
vroom, you would be surprised how much power there is with the 17/43. The 13/43 would give you your stop light to stoplight. You will need to have two chains. I tried to run the same chain and it is at the end of adjustment with the 13 and is to long.   Hutch
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barry68v10
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #368 - 06/15/07 at 15:05:31
 
From a longevity standpoint, you want the BIGGEST sprockets you can get, i.e. if you can run a 17 on the front and get the ratio you want, do it.  

On the other hand, you're then stuck with swapping the chain AND rear sprocket when you want a changed ratio.  In that case a constant rear sprocket, with an easier front sprocket and possibly chain swap would be quicker and easier.  Again, there's trade-off's, and like hutch said, "you can't have your cake and eat it too."
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petc0ck mod, white spacer removed, 150 main jet, 12.5" shocks, 16" turnout muff, oil cooler mod, chain conversion, Tkat brace, external fuel filter, fuel screen removed...
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Beezer72
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #369 - 06/23/07 at 10:14:32
 
Hello all,  
I am new to the site and am now the proud owner of a 1986 LS 650, I was wanting some information about the chain conversion, which sprockets would work for my bike, if you could make it easy as possible for me, I would greatly appreciate it, also I will be riding alot of 2 up, aprox weight of riders 300#, which gear ratio would be best to recieve maximum torque. we do not do alot of hughway cruising so top speed only needs to be in the 65-70 mph range, any info would be greatly appreciated, Beez
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Rockin_John
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #370 - 06/23/07 at 12:22:45
 
Welcome Beezer, While I haven't been directly involved in the chain conversion or done one yet, I do own both an old 87 model 4-speed and a 99 model 5-speed. So, I'm very familiar with the gearing feel and shift points of both types. I think that will give me perspective to help you out. Also, I weigh over 250 all by myself, so I load a bike almost as much as your 2-up situation.

I'd have to say that I would be reluctant to gear the old 4-speed any higher than stock, unless I was much lighter, and planned on riding the highway at 65-70+ a LOT. One of the main reasons being that the 4-speed has a bit of a tall first gear to start with, and making it significantly higher would be hard on the clutch.

And OTOH, If you want to maintain the ability to cruise at 65-70 for any length of time, you certainly don't want to gear the bike down any; because it is already geared barely high enough to cruise at those speeds as stock.

So what I highly recommend is to continue to ride the bike geared just as it is with the belt, unless you have some serious shortcoming in the performance or suitability for the type of riding you do. Only when and if you decide that the bike is being worked too hard on the highway, or you need more pull because you live in a hilly area; THEN... MAYBE you might want to look at the chain conversion. Remember, that you can get a slight gearing change by changing rear tire size/profile.

Frankly, I'd recommend that anyone planning to use a Savage for a lot of 2-up riding, consider trading up for a 5-speed model. While the top gear is only very slightly taller (when the difference in primary gears is considered)... First gear is noticeably lower, and the other gears are spread at very handy intervals for a variety of in town and road riding.

In fact, I've been thinking about the best use for my old 4-speed Savage. I've wanted to have several of the bikes, each converted for different uses. I don't see the 4-speed as good potential for a scrambler type bike; because of it's lack of wide enough gear ratios. The same goes for it being any other type of bike that needs a really wide choice of gear ratio. So... I'm thinking it would be put to best use as either a very high geared solo highway bike, where taking off in a really tall first gear wouldn't matter much. Or, perhaps a cafe' style bike with the gearing set to really pull in the 15-65mph range where I enjoy peg dragging most. I'm not much for really high speed road racing style riding. I am quite capable of scaring myself plenty enough below 70mph thank you  Shocked

As it happens, the bike pulls great in that speed range with the belt that is already on it... so no need to change anything if I were to cafe' it! Grin
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Beezer72
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #371 - 06/24/07 at 09:49:59
 
rockin_John,
thanks for all your insight but maybee i should have told you the whole story, i bought the 86 as a wrecked parts bike and have since then designed and fabricated my own hardtail frame with a girder front end, trying to make it look like a slim 70's style chop,

i would love to leave the belt drive for reliability and looks, as well as money and time, but the rear pulley being so big is giving me clearence issues, if i go down to a chain sprocket all issues are solved all i would have to do is cut a break side spacer for the axle. sound easy enough,
my frame is stretched some so the factory belt wouldn't fit if i wanted it to so far i have a rolling chasis, and most of the parts i need for under $500, and that is the idea, to build as cool of a bike as possible for little money as possible,
thanks again, The Beez
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barry68v10
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #372 - 06/25/07 at 15:08:27
 
Beez, why do you need a break-side spacer?  A sprocket is about the same thickness as the pulley at the bolts  ???
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petc0ck mod, white spacer removed, 150 main jet, 12.5" shocks, 16" turnout muff, oil cooler mod, chain conversion, Tkat brace, external fuel filter, fuel screen removed...
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barry68v10
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #373 - 06/25/07 at 15:09:52
 
Ops, I meant "brake" not "break"... Embarrassed
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petc0ck mod, white spacer removed, 150 main jet, 12.5" shocks, 16" turnout muff, oil cooler mod, chain conversion, Tkat brace, external fuel filter, fuel screen removed...
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Beezer72
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #374 - 06/27/07 at 21:37:19
 
Barry,
thanks for your interest, I am shifting the wheel over about a half inch or so, not sure untill I get the sprocket on, so that my wheel spins in the center of my frame.  I built a simple single down tube frame that is about 10" wide center to center, the swingarm i took off the bike is offset enough to account for the excessively large belt drive pulley, which wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't spaced so far off the rim.
Beez
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