Hi guys,
I could have sworn I had posted on this thread yesterday, but can't find my post... ???

I still have the typical belt drive on my 1988 4speed, and as you will guess top gear, being a 4th gear, is rather short legged.

I am interested in the chain drive converion myself, but cannot remember the final drive ratio with the belt drive, I'd like to make it a good 10% longer ratioed, and get a little more speed at my cruising 4000 rpm.

Thanks

mpescatori wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:

Believe it or not the final ratio on your 4 speed is LONGER than the 5 speed, not much ,but it is.To get a 10% longer ratio you would need to go to a 17/45 sprocket, or a 16/43 for a 9% longer ratio. All the info I posted in the tech document section. If you want to run at 4000 rpm with either of these sprocket ratios, you will be going about 70- 75mph. I don't know why junkyard parts won't work but the price of new is not that bad. Be sure to get an axtra FRONT sprocket to make the spacer you need on the trans shaft. It is all explained in the tech section with pics. Hope this helps.   Hutch

Odar wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
Sorry to hear that you have the same problem I did. Yes the bike will try to move forward when trying to take it OFF. I put a bar wrapped with tape through the back wheel on TOP of the swing arm and IN FRONT of the shocks to keep it from rolling forward. I was going to use heat to loosen it, but didn't want to FRY my transmission seal. I finally loaded up the bike on a trailer and took it to a tire store. They had enough air pressure to get it off with an air wrench and a 32mm. It was loaded with locktite(yellow) from the factory. Hope this helps!!   Hutch

Odar wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
From the sound of it Suzuki makes CHEAP sprockets. The spacer has to be 10mm thick, and that is what JT Sprockets are. I took my sprocket to a shop where I used to work and they let me cut it out on their metal jig saw. The only other thing to remember is to unhook your brake cable at the rear wheel,put in the bottom shock bolt and spacer (if you don't use belt guard) back in BEFORE putting back tire on and be sure to line up the brake hub in slot. Everything is covered if you look in the Tech/Document section under chain conversion.  Hope this helps!!  Hutch

I bought the JT sprockets
Went out and measured again, at the center of the sprocket its exactly 8,5 mm thick.
The part number on the bag is JTF513.14
Material High carbon steel
and on the bag it say www.jtsprockets.com
Must be the right one?
Have not removed the fron sprocket to measure,its almost midningt here, but I dont want to cut out the 40 mm tomorow if its not the right width of the sprocket.
Could it be 8,5 instead of 10 that you claim that you have?
Odar

Odar wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:

If you have JT sprockets then you should be fine. Just put your sprocket on and slide the other sprocket on and see if you need to add spacer, or sand down your spacer like I did. That should  tell you the whole story. As long as the toothed washer JUST hangs on the spline, it will tighten up without any sloppiness in the assembly.If it looks good, go ahead and make your spacer out of the small sprocket. I was going buy another persons measurement and didn't use a mircometer. I did have  to disc sand a slight amount of metal off both sides of my spacer, so that might have brought the measurement down to what you stated.7.5-8.5mm.  Let me know if you have any problems.  Hutch

mpescatori wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
You got the idea!!! The stock belt is 2.96. The 17 gives you a 14.5% change. That is what I run mostley and it works great for my 150 pound butt. You can use the 13 and the chain still has room to drop down on the sprocket, without hitting the 40mm spacer, close, but chain will not hit spacer and jump off front sprocket. You can see this in the pic in the tech document section. I have the 13 tooth I cut out sitting on top of chain. Have fun playing around, I am.  
Hutch