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chain drive conversion (Read 179 times)
mpescatori
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #225 - 03/14/07 at 10:11:00
 
Hutch wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
 
Since the German kit is a 17 and a 50 and works out to almost the same ratio as the Stock belt drive, I figured I would go with a 17 and a 45-47. I don't want to turn it in to a complete dog on take off and acceleration. Even a 500-800rpm drop at 80mph would make me feel better. The stock ratio is about 2.94. 17/47 would be 2.76, 17/46 would be 2.70, 17/45 would be 2.64. I'm thinking maybe a 44 might be close to 500 rpm not sure.

Anybody know the rpm drop from a stock 2.94 ratio to a  2.59 ratio???


Hutch, it shouldn't be too difficult.
Cruising at 5000rpm? Multiply x stock ratio, divide by new ratio.

5000 : 2.94 x 2.59 = 4400rpm  Wink
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #226 - 03/14/07 at 11:23:46
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
My BIL, whom has bunches of money, also has a 2 year old "Something Glide" (can't remember).  He therefore has all his work done by the dealer and never touches a wrench.

A couple months ago he was with his favorite Hog Group on a weekly "ride and pose" when he suddenly dropped from the radar while riding the tail position.  When the group finally found him on the side of the road, it was discovered that all of his rear pulley bolts had come loose and a few had fallen out....Of course, having his resources a tow for the bike was no problem, but he did have to accept the disgrace of riding 2 up for the rest of the day.

You might have preferred those bolts on your rear pulley.  Right?

Naw, things don't fall off Harleys...

 
That is the reason I do my own work. About two years ago I was unable to do some work on my bike and had the shop do it. They managed to NOT line up the rear axle. I took a trip up north,about 200 miles and when I stopped to fill the tank I had a rear belt that looked like an angora cat. How hard is it to line up a axle?Of course I changed it my self, Which meant tearing off 3" primary belt, clutch, inner primary, remove rear tire, unbolt shocks and tear off the softail rear section to change the back belt. One reason why I want a chain final drive, and I do my own work. Every 500 miles I go over every bolt , on every bike I have ever owned. Just a habit you get from owning all those Triumphs in earlier years. Now there is a vibrating bike. At least the old ones were. I guess what I'm saying is that if you don't check things out once in a while ON ANY BIKE you are looking for trouble. The old put the key in and go doesn't fly with me. After all we are flying low on two wheels, and pilots fly high on two wings, and they always do a pre-flight check. So do I.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #227 - 03/14/07 at 15:24:30
 
Hutch, so I guess the point you're making is:  "chains are easier to swap than belts"?  I'll agree with that for a one-time job, but over the life of a bike, are 6 chain swaps easier than 2 belt swaps?
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #228 - 03/14/07 at 18:35:34
 
Back to the original reason for Hutch's swap..  He wants to drop the RPMs are highway speed.  Is this swap going to do that in the end?

Just curious..

- Roadie
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #229 - 03/14/07 at 18:49:27
 
barry68v10 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
Hutch, so I guess the point you're making is:  "chains are easier to swap than belts"?  I'll agree with that for a one-time job, but over the life of a bike, are 6 chain swaps easier than 2 belt swaps?
 
For me yes, I would rather replace a chain ten times than spend 8hrs on one belt change on a softail frame bike. It's not that bad on a standard shock bike,but at least I can chew stuff up that gets in a chain, instead of the other way around. Someone just had a post about the tar and stone from a road repair getting in his belt. If you check your bike over once and a while, chains are fine. They worked for how many years???? Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's improved. You don't see belts on dirt bikes. Let's face it, it's a dirty world out there. I can replace a chain and be on my way in30 minutes, no 8 hrs to it.AND I'M GETTING OLD AND SLOW.

I wonder what the deal is with allen from England. Man he must have a weird bike or something. There is no way you can run the spacer on the inside of the sprocket like in his picture. Maybe he is using a different offset rear sprocket or something.All I know is it is pefectly aligned with GS550 (cast wheel) sprockets ,with the front sprocket against the factory spacer, and then the splined spacer on the outside next to the washer with the nut tightening everything down. Hope my chain gets here tomorrow. I can see now that the old bars are going to go back on for a test ride, if the weather man is wrong. Calling for rain/snow mix. Not over 40' for next 4-5 days. Sure was glad for the 72' Tuesday.
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #230 - 03/14/07 at 18:55:21
 
Roadie wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
Back to the original reason for Hutch's swap..  He wants to drop the RPMs are highway speed.  Is this swap going to do that in the end?

Just curious..

- Roadie
 
Yes it will, about 725 rpm's at 80mph. That is with the new 2.53 ratio using 17/43 sprockets.The stock belt ratio was2.96
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #231 - 03/14/07 at 20:38:30
 
barry68v10 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
Hutch, so I guess the point you're making is:  "chains are easier to swap than belts"?  I'll agree with that for a one-time job, but over the life of a bike, are 6 chain swaps easier than 2 belt swaps?

You may have asked the eternal question here.  

Got to wonder why Harley introduced them on their Softtail back in the '80s, but the whole world didn't change right along behind them...

Of course, has a belt ever knocked a hole in a tranny case when it broke?
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #232 - 03/14/07 at 21:30:41
 
How often does a chain run dry?
Or the last time a belt slung that combination oil/metal/dirt black goo on you or your bike & how often do you have clean the goo off ?  Tongue
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #233 - 03/15/07 at 03:21:25
 
Mr 650 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
How often does a chain run dry?
Or the last time a belt slung that combination oil/metal/dirt black goo on you or your bike & how often do you have clean the goo off ?  Tongue


Its really not that bad.  My friends 1200 Bandit has a huge chain on it and he lubes it on a regular basis.  I don't see him cleaning his bike any more than I do. (Who doesn't own a clean bike anyways?)...    I would *think* dirt bikes use chains because well their a bit narrower and "holoer" (not a word I know and probably spelled wrong to boot!..) than a belt.  I.E. common sense tells me that chains are good a slinging goo off than belts.  And to me, for dirt application thats a good thing.  

I  like the simplicity of the belt, the smoothness in power transitions of the belt, etc.  I think this discussion comes down to what you are comfortable with honestly.  I don't see any major problems with either method of cycle locomotion.

I am enjoying seeing this mod coming along.  Who knows  maybe I might do it some day. (Well the wife is resisting any change on *her* bike..)  Its *her* bike when she gets permitted...  *Grumble*


- Roadie

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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #234 - 03/15/07 at 05:34:19
 
Yeah, but if I remember back to page 1, this topic is concerned with changing final drive ratios...not whether belts are cleaner or chains are narrower.  We probably wouldn't have this discussion at all if there were optional pulley and belt sizes....me thinks.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #235 - 03/15/07 at 08:35:47
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
Yeah, but if I remember back to page 1, this topic is concerned with changing final drive ratios...not whether belts are cleaner or chains are narrower.  We probably wouldn't have this discussion at all if there were optional pulley and belt sizes....me thinks.

You are right there Greg, if they made different size pulleys, I know a lot of you would be playing with ratios. I think that it might be an engineering challenge for the belt pulleys, when you think about it. If you look at the size of the STOCK pulleys, they are huge compared to the chain sprockets OD's, even for the same ratio. I'm not sure how much smaller you could go with the front pulley without throwing a belt, and you sure can't go bigger because of lack of room. It looks like you would only be able to play with the back pulley to change ratios. I don't know what the price of the back pulley is, but I know the back sprocket is a lot more than the front, and the front is a lot simpiler to change once you get the nut off the first time. I just looked up the price for a Harley back pulley, OEM is $230. As I said before, I have had nothing but bad luck with belts, and years of no trouble with chains. The new chain lubes are awesome, no mess, and I just like being able to fix things quickly. The playing with ratios is a VERY big plus.
As long as the chain is checked frequently and adjusted, along with the other spot checks, like oil and bolt tightness, there is no problem. If You just want to start and go,and never check anything, then all I can say is GOOD LUCK with anything you own. Everyone has there preference, mine happens to be chain.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #236 - 03/15/07 at 11:52:40
 
Got my chain today. I lined up the hash marks on both sides of the swing arm so axle is straight, put the chain on top of back sprocket and front sprocket, put trans in gear, rotated back tire to tighten chain on top, and took a looksy down chain for alignment. PERFECT, with stockspacer on the inside, then sprocket, then NEW spacer,toothed locking washer and nut. There might be an issue with the top belt/chain cover mounting bracket. the center one with the bolt, that sits on the top of swingarm. Won't know until road tested. Two reasons no road test today. First,it's only 25' with a 20mph wind, and I aint as hadcore as I used to be. Second, Greg 650 needs to keep the fickle finger of fate at his house. After making sure everything was kosher with alignment I went to put the chain together, TO SHORT, WHAT??? I ordered a 530/ 110 chain so I knew it would be long enough and I could always shorten it. For some reason it SHRUNK to a  530/100 link in the mail. Now I might get the correct one tomorrow, or MONDAY. Figures.Just kidding Greg, I wouldn't wish my luck on anyone.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #237 - 03/15/07 at 12:01:59
 
Wait until the temp gets into the 40s.  The chain might be long enough then Tongue
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #238 - 03/15/07 at 12:15:53
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
Wait until the temp gets into the 40s.  The chain might be long enough then Tongue
I wonder if the OVEN treatment would work? Weatherman says mid 30's, with overnight lows in the teens until Tuesday. That 72' day was just a teaser.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #239 - 03/15/07 at 14:03:56
 
Hutch wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:
 
I wonder what the deal is with allen from England.


Hutch, I think i have made a big bobo with the spacer, I think you are right about its position, when we took the bikes out for a warm up on sunday, the 400 made a lot of noise from the front sprocket (clicking) when we got into it Tuesday night we found the chain trying to climb off the side, (puzzled) now the only major change has been the swingarm (corrosion) so I dragged off the swingarm and laid it next to the old one, the old one is bent, closer inspection shows the stiffner support to be severly coroded underneath,why i didnt see this before bothers me, any way going back to the plot, swapped the spacer round like you have done and every thing now ok,
all I can say is please except my apologies for the mis direction to you and others on this thread,

allan.
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