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chain drive conversion (Read 179 times)
Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #135 - 02/23/07 at 15:38:02
 
Reelthing wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
handfull of the locking washers - they're splined just not very thick


If all else fails, sounds good. Probably cost less too!!!
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tbalam
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #136 - 02/23/07 at 15:53:18
 
41: ENG SPROCKET SP [25X32X18.6]

hey hutch,
try the spacer here #41 you should be able to cut it down to 10mm, and it's 4 bucks. Its 25X32X18.6

could you have one machined from aluminum?
i'll keep looking.

I found a japenses parts dealer that states the chain on the ls400 was 110 links.
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1996 Mirage paint, seat lift, 2 #4 washers, 155 main, 52.5 pilot. Removed pillon, belt guard, rear blinker mod, moved battery box. K&N cone, Chain conversion 17/43 (in process). Cam tensioner mod.
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #137 - 02/23/07 at 16:26:42
 
tbalam wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
41: ENG SPROCKET SP [25X32X18.6]

hey hutch,
try the spacer here #41 you should be able to cut it down to 10mm, and it's 4 bucks. Its 25X32X18.6

could you have one machined from aluminum?
i'll keep looking.

Sure would be nice if just for once you could find a sight that tells you the size of the spline instead of everything else or tells you nothing.I guess that is the next question. Is the spline the same for the  transmission on the gs1000  and the Savage? This is like starting over. I know all this for Harleys and most British bikes, but not for Jap bikes. Thanks for looking.I haven't ate for 24 hours so I got to take a break.
later   Hutch
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tbalam
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #138 - 02/23/07 at 16:49:34
 
I dont think this one is splined the inner dia. is 25mm which should fit over the splines.
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1996 Mirage paint, seat lift, 2 #4 washers, 155 main, 52.5 pilot. Removed pillon, belt guard, rear blinker mod, moved battery box. K&N cone, Chain conversion 17/43 (in process). Cam tensioner mod.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #139 - 02/23/07 at 17:15:00
 
i just got a wild hair and took my front pulley off. there is a spacer with the exact dimensions as mentioned earlier behind the pulley. possible no spacer needed. by the way it is not splined.











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1996 Mirage paint, seat lift, 2 #4 washers, 155 main, 52.5 pilot. Removed pillon, belt guard, rear blinker mod, moved battery box. K&N cone, Chain conversion 17/43 (in process). Cam tensioner mod.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #140 - 02/23/07 at 18:01:09
 
Quote:
i just got a wild hair and took my front pulley off. there is a spacer with the exact dimensions as mentioned earlier behind the pulley. possible no spacer needed. by the way it is not splined.


I guess that blows holes in the  whole "no spacer" thing for the Savage then huh? ???
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #141 - 02/23/07 at 18:01:25
 
Here is my two bits.

Most all suzukis run a spacer/collar on the counter shaft.  Not sure why.  The oil seal runs on this collar.  It was common that the GS's and TS's would leak oil there when the counter shaft sprocket nut loosens up.  

What you need to do to determine if you even need a spacer is this.
1. Pull your front sprocket and measure from the face of the pulley closesest to your engine to the machined face of the pulley where the shaft goes through.  

2. Now pull your rear pulley and measure from the same face (tire side) to the mounting face.

3.  Subtract approximately 1/32-1/16" from measurement #2. (This is because the rear pully flange is about 1/32-1/16" wider than the front's.

4. Subract #1 fromt #3.  If the number is positive this is the thickness of the spacer you need in the front.  If you get a negative number then you would have to space out the back sprocket.

Personally from looking at them (with out having measuring them) I would guess you won't need any spacer.

What I did up above was look at the offset of each pulley with out calculating where each center line is.  There would be other measurements you could use but I thought this would be the easiest.

Lastly any spacer that is needed would not need to be splined.  There is no need for it.  Just pinch it down with the sprocket and nut.

Let me know if you have questions.  I can still rip mine apart if all else fails!

Paul
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #142 - 02/23/07 at 18:53:46
 
tbalam wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
i just got a wild hair and took my front pulley off. there is a spacer with the exact dimensions as mentioned earlier behind the pulley. possible no spacer needed. by the way it is not splined.


Thanks for doing that for me tbalam. It is the same 10mm thick and 40mm OD?? This is already on the Savage??? I won der why the one allan from England shows in his picture is splined. May be so it wont tear up the shaft face? I don't know. I guess what I'll do is just put the sprockets on and see if they line up. If they don't, I'll worry about it then.   Smokin_blue, don't tear your bike apart, tbalam aready has and says there is a spacer behind the Savage sprocket already. Maybe I won't need to find one. Thank you for the offer. May be the spacer on the ls400 is the only one that is splined like on allan's in England. It shows it clearly in his post. Thanks again for the help and offers .......to everybody involved.   Hutch












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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #143 - 02/23/07 at 19:23:59
 
yep 10mm x 40mm although i am using a centimeter tape measure, and not a micrometer, so it's not a perfect measure ment, but i am within a mm.

using smokin's method the front is 19mm and the rear is 15-16mm ( i didn't take off the pulley and used the tape) so it appears that a 4-5mm spacer needs to be put behind the rear sprocket. again this is not perfect, but is close.

for those keeping track:

530 chain close to 110 links $40-50 (ebay)
sprocket front: gs550 (teeth of choice) $20
Sprocket rear: gs550 mag wheel (teeth of choice) $30
4-5mm spacer behind the rear sprocket. $5 (at the most)

total cost for chain conversion: $90-100

other than that looks to be close to bolt on.
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1996 Mirage paint, seat lift, 2 #4 washers, 155 main, 52.5 pilot. Removed pillon, belt guard, rear blinker mod, moved battery box. K&N cone, Chain conversion 17/43 (in process). Cam tensioner mod.
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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #144 - 02/23/07 at 19:43:04
 
Tbalam, that's about what I came up with for price if I didn't need to buy a spacer for the front.I've spaced back sprockets over(Triumph with harley backwheel assemble) so that is no big deal. I plan on putting it together with the cheap chain first and when all the gear ratios and bugs are sorted out, I'll go with the expensive o-ring. Why chop up an expensive chain,right? That would add about $70-$100 to the total cost. They want $260+ for the German kit plus S&H from Germany. Besides........aint this fun??
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #145 - 02/23/07 at 21:22:01
 
check ebay for the chain you can buy an oring for 40-70 bucks easy, or an x ring chain for a few bucks more.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #146 - 02/27/07 at 19:26:14
 
We better back up and listen to Smokin_Blue on this one.

I too wanted to check the spacer, and it is part of the drive shaft oil seal.  Oil seal on the outside and o-ring on the inside.  It is even sort of keyed on the transmission side and measures right at 21 MM long.

That little ring on the outside is where the oil seal runs, so that should tell you how much is visible.



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Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #147 - 02/27/07 at 19:55:09
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
We better back up and listen to Smokin_Blue on this one.

I too wanted to check the spacer, and it is part of the drive shaft oil seal.  Oil seal on the outside and o-ring on the inside.  It is even sort of keyed on the transmission side and measures right at 21 MM long.

That little ring on the outside is where the oil seal runs, so that should tell you how much is visible.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/PulleySpacer_1963.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/PulleySpacer_1966.jpg
 

It's looking to me that when this part is fully seated that there will be 10mm sticking out, just like we need. Might have to shim back sprocket, I'll find out once I get sprockets tomorrow and get around to freeing up a jack. If the sprockets show up that is.Smokin_blue method will work and so will laser.tool I made.Thanks for the pics Greg     Hutch
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #148 - 02/28/07 at 10:54:46
 
Hutch wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
 

It's looking to me that when this part is fully seated that there will be 10mm sticking out, just like we need. Might have to shim back sprocket, I'll find out once I get sprockets tomorrow and get around to freeing up a jack. If the sprockets show up that is.Smokin_blue method will work and so will laser.tool I made.Thanks for the pics Greg     Hutch



I'll be putting the spacer back in for a photo anway, and I'll measure it for sure.
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Re: chain drive conversion
Reply #149 - 03/01/07 at 21:49:08
 
Hey Hutch,

Here's the measure.  It is 9 mm from the seal retainer on the drive shaft....or add 1 mm from the seal.

Also, I have no idea what those notches are for.  All that I can see up in there is a bearing.  The spacer spins on the shaft.


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