Helloooooo Savages!

First of all, let me remind everyone that mine is a 1997 model.

Second, I've been studying the wiring diagram and redrawing it for a while now.

What I want to do is remove the the clutch lever interlock, side stand switch, diode (i.e. the double diode), and the relay.

So the connections I need to make are:

1)  short the y/g wires at the clutch lever switch.  This shorts one end of the starter switch to the decomp. contoller. (I've already done this and it works).  

2)  short either orange going into the side stand relay to the o/b leaving the side stand relay.  This will leave the kill switch functional.

3)  [a]  removing the kill switch:  short the o/b in 2) to the o/w of the starter.  This let's the starter do it's job and continues to provide the signal the Ignitor needs (also shorted to the ignition coil).  Now the bike can only be turned off witht he igniton (key) switch or by stalling it.

3 [b] short the Gray to the O at the right handle bar box.  This needs to be done since the igniton switch gets power from there for some reason.  This is the circuit that powers the always on tail light when the ignition switch is in the "ON" position.

I am forgoing a front brake light switch.  Now I will only have 8 wires going to the front of the bike:
3 for the headlight, 2 for the coil, and 2 for the decomp sol.  The starter and hi/low switches will be under the seat.

I can now remove all the garbage suzuki put under there, like the double diode, side stand relay, lots of wires...

Sooooooooooooo, anyone see any problems with this setup?  

I'm gonna do some real work, then come back here and recheck everything.

Thanks,

V

I don't see any typos... so, yes.  This sound good to you greg?

All of the Black/White are actually ground.

Ever wondered about that little wire that is also attached to the battery ground?  That little wire is the harness ground for all the isolated devices (relays and modules) and a few switches.  I've got them all grounded to the frame.

To me it was like a Suzuki engineer on crack.  Anytime they added a device, they connected the ground to some other device.  No central termination.  When you get in the harness, there are splices everywhere

I think that I have a picture of the whole thing unwrapped somewhere.  It took me 40 hours to rewire it the way I wanted.

I'm taking a look at the original copy of the schematic...kinda hard to zoom the one on the site....

Does the green dot mean that you plan to connect those 2 wires?

Here's a diagram I drew of the simplified wiring harness.  I tried to keep the colors as accurate as possible.  I have not shown the headlight or hi/lo switch.



so here, there are obviously no turn sigs, horn, clutch or side stand interlock, stuff in the speedo, and associated relays...


so, I guess what I'm asking, will this work?  

I'd love to.  Not a project I'm ready for, though.

So this will get my bike started?  If you say "yes," and it doesn't work, well, it's not your fault! (that's an unintentional pun).

photoshop!

I took mine off.  I'm hoping to use the left side pass peg hole to mount a jockey shift to one day...

Cool... alright, so I can read a circuit diagram reasonably well.  Now I just have to do it... correctly!

Thanks for the confidence boost!

Hmmm... maybe I want go to the bar before I tackle this...

vroom1776 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:


No photoshop.  Weldingshop!

I imagine that you'll go to the bar a couple times before you get it rewired too (I would)

Good luck on this job.