georgekathe wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:

You may need needle nosed vice grips to extract the original screws - they're soft as butter. Just take the originals to a good hardware store and get stainless steel allen heads. The one's I bought were just a bit longer than stock but work fine. The size of the originals is posted on this site somewhere ???

me again - george - if you have to take top off carb to do spacer mod at same time as replacing crappy screws on float chamber may want to replace the ones that hold top of carb on with allen screws too. sorry did not put  this in earlier. I was lucky & could get the phillips screws out with screwdriver, but know many others on site have had to use vice grips, their teeth & all manner of ways to get the little buggers loose!

performance international.com  has the K&N drop-in for $44.69 with free shipping. Part number is SU6595.
make sure you re-jet, and file the white spacer. I ended up with a 152.5 main, and filing the spacer to 1/2 thickness. Get some med grit sandpaper and use your index finger to file the spacer down.

allens are m5's and the accelerater pump screws are m4's seat bolts are m6's.

you should be able to cap the airbox opening with a pvc or rubber cap and leave the breather tube attached with the oem filter for the crank breather problem. Not sure though my cone will be here shortly. also if you do a search on ebay for intercoller tubes, you can get a 180 degree polished aluminum piping to move your cone to either side of the head.

I am going to work on a cone breather mod if possible when mine comes in. I have a couple ideas that might work i'll keep you posted.