I now have brand new brakes on both front and rear. Took me a moment to figure out how to remove the rear wheel but I got it. That part was easy, it was the re-install of the rear wheel that's a booger.

Word of advice to those who haven't yet replaced their own rear brake shoes.

1: Remove the left lower shock mount, makes it a heck of a lot easier to re-install wheel after new brakes are put in.

2: There is a trick I found out to installing the new shoes. Don't try to put the springs on after you set the shoes in the drum. Unless you have the strength of Hercules, I doubt you will manage it. Instead, hold both of the shoes next to each other brake pad area up and set the springs on both shoes, then what I call butterfly them in. Line up the notches and carefully spread the shoes apart untill they are set. Makes it a heck of a lot easier and you can be as weak as a kitten to accomplish it.

3: Before I forget. If your license plate is in the original spot, remove it first unless you don't mind bending it up a bit.

I guess I got lucky, the thing went back together pretty easily.

I am considering pulling the brake out & decreasing the surface area of the shoes some. I would like to have to push harder on the pedal to make the tire lock up. I can lock the rear without even trying. The front, on the other hand, is a whole different story. I have to try to collapse the lever in order to make the tire chirp. That's not good.

Yonuh, did that solve the squealing?

justin_o_guy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:12:


Decreasing the area of the shoes?  Don't worry they will do it all by themselves

Sounds more like you need to do a couple other things:

1. Work with the 3 or so different adjustment points to change the pedal travel or cable free play.  Much easier than anything else...

2. Use the front and rear brake in combination to avoid locking the rear.  Locking the rear tire can really throw you into a very ugly spill if done at the wrong time.

The rear brake on almost all bikes will lock much more easily than the front due to the weight transfer.  Avoid using the rear brake alone.

verslagen1 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:12:


Did you say Dustless?



Some times the brakes squeal because the shoes are not contacting the drum evenly, the shoes have become glazed and, of course, dust.  Your built in air jet would be interesting to see...

Brake dust is not to be trifled with. Be aware that not all brakes are without asbestos yet. I have no idea about the Suzuki brakes, but I would want a mask & then I would put a rag as close to where the dust comes out of the wheel as I can.

I appreciate the input regarding adjusting the brake pedal lower so as to make it harder to get on the brake, but I still think I will go with cutting places down on the shoes. I like where the pedal is & if I lowewr the pedal then if I am sitting back further it will make hitting the brake harder & sitting up close easier. Back, more weight on the tire, harder to brake, Up, less weight, easier to brake,I would rather have it consistent & less powerful brakes, & fewer feet of skid marks. I'll tell ya how it goes! I have some free time,, what with the battery thing & all..

Greg is that from EBC brakes?

And I like what you did to the air box.  Makes it look like a real mans bike.