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Trouble with cold start. (Read 6 times)
verslagen1
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #15 -
02/08/07 at 22:48:42
I just added a spacer under each cable to get the lip above the terminal. Otherwise you need to flaten the lugs on the cables. Thought about cutting a slot in the terminal to fit the lugs. But want to keep everything stock until it proves out.
Since the boot no longer fit over the terminal, I modified the plastic terminal cover that came with the battery to cover the lower half that wasn't being covered by the boot.
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Kropatchek
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #16 -
02/09/07 at 02:24:47
verslagen1 wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
I just added a spacer under each cable to get the lip above the terminal. Otherwise you need to flaten the lugs on the cables.
For a more/better connection of the lug to the terminal of the battery: REMOVE THE SPACER.
Reason: you're adding an extra resistor in between !
( from the aviation electrical handbook)
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Never ask your bike to scream before her throat is warm.
'93 Sav in '96 ( yellow) looks
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barry68v10
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #17 -
02/09/07 at 03:28:48
Also, for cold weather starting, synthetic oil will help since it will have much lower viscocity in cold temps. Some of the heavier oil turns into Sillyputty when its coldish out.
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petc0ck mod, white spacer removed, 150 main jet, 12.5" shocks, 16" turnout muff, oil cooler mod, chain conversion, Tkat brace, external fuel filter, fuel screen removed...
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #18 -
02/09/07 at 05:28:11
verslagen1 wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
I just added a spacer under each cable to get the lip above the terminal. Otherwise you need to flaten the lugs on the cables. Thought about cutting a slot in the terminal to fit the lugs. But want to keep everything stock until it proves out.
Since the boot no longer fit over the terminal, I modified the plastic terminal cover that came with the battery to cover the lower half that wasn't being covered by the boot.
Okay. The Big Crank came with some spacers, but I opted to bend the lugs on the cables instead.
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Kropatchek
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #19 -
02/09/07 at 05:56:51
Savage_Greg wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
Okay. The Big Crank came with some spacers, but I opted to bend the lugs on the cables instead.
Did you read the same book, or is this common sence?
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Kropatchek
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Never ask your bike to scream before her throat is warm.
'93 Sav in '96 ( yellow) looks
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #20 -
02/09/07 at 07:32:28
Is this in that book?
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Max_Morley
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #21 -
02/09/07 at 08:07:34
In automotive circuits we consider each connection a potential for voltage loss due to the resistance than can occur. If you use the current flowing voltage drop method to check for resistance, 0.1 V is allowed for each connection, but only 0.5 for most circuits (older toyota material allowed for 1.0V per circuit on non computerized ones. If you have any broken stands in your standed type wiring it will cause voltage loss when the load is applied as the path for the current flow is now smaller. An ohmmeter will not catch this as the current flow is very low, only what that 9V battery will push and still run the meter. Max
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Max at Thumper Acres. '96 Savage bagger, '03 Savage w/Cozy sidecar for wifeni.
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verslagen1
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #22 -
02/09/07 at 09:18:18
Yeah, I hear you about the spacers. It's common sense.
They'll be pulled and lugs flattened in the future. After I have confidence in the battery. I hate to make a change for something I have to pull right out and return.
So far there's so much reserve that my electronic gizmo's don't blank out when starting.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #23 -
02/09/07 at 09:35:46
Max_Morley wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
In automotive circuits we consider each connection a potential for voltage loss due to the resistance than can occur. If you use the current flowing voltage drop method to check for resistance, 0.1 V is allowed for each connection, but only 0.5 for most circuits (older toyota material allowed for 1.0V per circuit on non computerized ones. If you have any broken stands in your standed type wiring it will cause voltage loss when the load is applied as the path for the current flow is now smaller. An ohmmeter will not catch this as the current flow is very low, only what that 9V battery will push and still run the meter. Max
Yep. Though I might not have explained it that eloquently, that's why I added 4 more ground connections from the harness to the frame.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #24 -
02/09/07 at 09:38:43
verslagen1 wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
Yeah, I hear you about the spacers. It's common sense.
They'll be pulled and lugs flattened in the future. After I have confidence in the battery. I hate to make a change for something I have to pull right out and return.
So far there's so much reserve that my electronic gizmo's don't blank out when starting.
Another concern that I had was to keep my terminals as low in the box as possible because they are uninsulated.
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verslagen1
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #25 -
02/09/07 at 11:21:00
That's why I left the Boot on even though it no longer fit.
At least it covered it somewhat. And to protect the bottom I modified the plastic terminal protector.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Trouble with cold start.
Reply #26 -
02/09/07 at 11:22:39
verslagen1 wrote
on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
That's why I left the Boot on even though it no longer fit.
At least it covered it somewhat. And to protect the bottom I modified the plastic terminal protector.
The boots didn't match my "no color" scheme
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