BTW, thanks lancer for the pictures of the oil system...

Wow!  Suzuki sure did an efficient job of rendering the return line unusable!  That thing is completely centered on the frame bolt with just enough room that you have to pull the engine from the frame to thread anything into that port.  

I guess going thru the oil filter cavity is really the only viable option.  Guess that's why Ed_L did it that way.

Any innovative ways to get to the oil return port in lancers oil passage post?

in the service manual on the page b-4 the oil path diagram there is a "lubrication system chart"maybe laner could post that page also(i would but have no flat
bed scanner)that may help you decide what path to use..the front plug is where you take pressure tests
spec is with oil temp @ 140 f  above 7.1psi  below10.7 psi.. i have a horz. cyl. thumper the oil cooler for it tyes into the side cover at the cam shaft..
on the ls id think the optium would be feed the cooler and or external filter from the front plug(from the sump) and return up the bottom plug (flows to the stock filter) one would /should plug the  short passage between the two...
imo id rather just find a oil temp gauge and install the sender in the front plug....even in this upland desert
bike will stay cool e nuf ala oil flows, & idle speed is  between 1000 and 1200rpm...sometimes those LOONNGG
stop lites in the summer gets me thinkin but a cooler wouldnt help while stopped  xcept for the increase  in volume..

Thanks Ed_L, thought about the options you mentioned but am trying not to stray too far from a "stock-look" although like you I'm more of a function than form guy.  I shouldn't have any problems finding a nipple that will thread in.  I ran into a similar problem when I installed a bypass oil filter system on my dad's Duramax Diesel.  I discovered hydrolic and pnuematic fittings come in lots of odd shapes and sizes and will readily flow oil just like any other fluid (including air).  Since they are all made of brass, heat, corrosion, etc. aren't issues.
Thanks for the offer Ed_L.
Actually now that I've taken another hard look at the oil diagram, I've concluded that not blocking that short passage with an oil cooler installed, you have likely INCREASED oil flow to the top of the cylinder head.

I'm committed to the mod, I've ordered a frame rail transmission cooler to cool the oil and it has a magnetic internal filter so I'm abandoning the external oil filter idea.  (Plus I couldn't find a good place to mount one.)

Once I get the project underway, I'll try to figure out how to post the pictures.  I'm much better with mechanical things than computers.  

Thumperclone, we agree with your assessment of the "best path."  Problem is, there's only about 1 inch of clearance between that bottom bolt and a large frame crossmember and bolt.  So it's tucked in neatly...  I suspect the bolt that's in there won't even thread all the way out without removing the engine but I'll find out for sure next weekend when I start to tear into it.

my first self oil change i wrongly pulled that plug..a banjo fitting(like on the front brake line)ought to work i know its tite ..if not a banjo then a straight nipple to clear the frame then a 90 barb fitting  this is a low pressure system as long as all passages are clear.. cant find the sizes of these two plugs  ed has the front ones size any one know the bottom??saw in one of the cataloges an auto bypass valve , has four fittings and is temp sensitive anything less than 50 F and the cooler is bypassed..if the extenal filter is wanted w/ cooling there are cooling fins that attach to the outside of the filter..
i have a magnetic drain plug (web address listed here somewhere)it works great amazing amount of small particles at every oil change..keep us posted.. 8)

UPDATE:  I've located the right part...It's a JIC 6 thread aka. 9/16 UNF 18 TPI.  You can find it anyplace that sells JIC brass fittings.  I'm about to go get some for myself, let me know if anyone else is interested and I'll pick-up enough for all of us.

Here's the list of parts I ordered from summitracing.com to complete my project.  I already had a -6 AN hose barb to female -6 AN fitting.  This will also fit 11/32 or 3/8 hose:


SUM-220632B Fitting, Coupler, Straight, Male -6 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Black Hard Anodized

SUM-220646 Fitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male, Aluminum, Blue

SUM-220711 Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose Barb to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue


Ed_L apparently tapped a 1/4" NPT into the oil filter cavity, I'm planning on using a 1/8" NPT since AN fittings out flow brass NPT fittings.

BTW, -6 AN = JIC 6.