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more on jetting/carb work (Read 7 times)
georgekathe
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more on jetting/carb work
09/07/06 at 16:38:27
 
I know there are a million entries on the site on jetting & adjusting carbs, but I am a little frustrated - I have been through many of them, honest!. Though happy to do other work, I am "carb shy" so after fitting following took my '96 LS650 (with 10,000 miles)to local bike store for rejetting -

K & N slot in filter
Hard Krome slash cut muffler
took out snorkle
brand new spark plug - a DPR8EA9

After doing the mods the bike would pop occassionally on shut down (it made no noise with stock filter) and surged a little @ about 30 mph in 3rd (never did that before, either).

I ran it for about 100 miles before I took the bike in, having looked @ the condition of the plug - not a bad color with only a bit of soot - not as dirty as I thought it'd be due to over lean running.

I got it back from the shop with a 150 main, the stock pilot & the fuel screw backed out 2 & 1/3, being told "that makes the pilot size correct" (question - does it?)

I was told it had been worked on before & had "two washers under the clip" which I've never heard mentioned on this site. I was also told filing off the white spacer would make no difference as it "is above the clip"(I had earlier suggested this may need to be done per this site) What does this mean? Everyone on here seems to file away.

I found it still popped a bit so called back - was told to back off fuel screw 1/2 turn but may have to live with it. Still pops a bit & I think overall the smoothness is gone.

So - any advice? I don't want to spend more $$ @ this shop on this job & moreover my friend here with a S40 took his to the Suzuki store & did not feel 100% satisfied. So I will work on it myself now (got place to change out the soft head screws for stainless allen heads - ha!)

Would an iridium (spelling? plug help in anyone's opinion?

Would appreciate feedback with one important thing to NOTE - unlike many of you I am not at or relatively near sea level but 4,200 feet up in the high desert (dry & hot, mild winters). So please take into account altitude, etc if you can when making any advice.

Thanks, George Grin
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thumperclone
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #1 - 09/07/06 at 17:10:34
 
hey neighbor
141.3 main 60 pilot ...

bite the bullet ,change shops, buy the shocks later Wink
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Brewbrother
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #2 - 09/07/06 at 18:06:14
 
rocky mountain high got your carb. Too much fuel not enough air. Do the white spacer mod by a 1/2.  ITs not that hard. Read the site get your replacement  ss allen screws and dig in. If you find your self with a problem, post it, an anwser is close by, happy wrenching. Thumperclone sounds right on your pilot and main. Don't be shy about helping yourself to a carb lesson. Grin
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Opportunities multiply as they are seized.
No spacer,60 pilot jet, 155 main jet, plug door, sportster muffler, k&n drop in, iridium plug, brake pedal mod,de-badged, Dunlops, bullet turn signals.
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Savage_Rob
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #3 - 09/08/06 at 06:56:51
 
Check out Lancer's Straight & Simple Carb Tuning in the Tech Ref forum.
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1998|MAC muffler|ceramic coated header|K&N air filter|Amal Mk2 carb|Odyssey battery|iridium plug|NC windshield|Dunlop 491s|Superbrace|EBC brake rotor|12.5" Progressive shocks|Kuryakyn ISO grips
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azjay
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #4 - 09/08/06 at 07:17:20
 
george wrote;
"K & N slot in filter
Hard Krome slash cut muffler
took out snorkle"
these mods will pomote a lean condition, which will aggravate an already factory lean condition.

"the condition of the plug - not a bad color with only a bit of soot - not as dirty as I thought it'd be due to over lean running."
??? a lean condition will cause a white plug color, a tan to milk chocolate is the desired color.

"I got it back from the shop with a 150 main, the stock pilot & the fuel screw backed out 2 & 1/3, being told "that makes the pilot size correct" (question - does it?)"  
a 150 main is bigger than stock, good. the stock pilot is a #52.5 the common upsize is a #55 which has a larger hole to allow more fuel to the idle circuit. the idle mix screw adjusts that avaiable fuel into the air/fuel mixture. (answer-no)

"I was told it had been worked on before & had "two washers under the clip" which I've never heard mentioned on this site. I was also told filing off the white spacer would make no difference as it "is above the clip"
the needle has a spring under it which lifts the needle against the white spacer. by halving the white spacer, the needle is lifted out of the main jet by that same amount, allowing more fuel to flow. two washers is the equivelant of 1/2 or 2/3 spacer, depending on the washer thickness (some of us have used them in lue of filing the spacer including myself). under the clip would compress the spring, but would not affect the needle height.

"I found it still popped a bit so called back - was told to back off fuel screw 1/2 turn but may have to live with it. Still pops a bit & I think overall the smoothness is gone. "
that is why we add a bigger pilot jet, so more fuel is avalable to the idle mixture. good luck, keep us informed

jay
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dyna muff,1/2 spacer,152.5,55,drilled air box,idle mix,spark plug door,harley bars & seat,spitfire windshield,turn signal,dunlops,man.pethingy,ISO pegs,engine cage,hiway pegs,support 81
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georgekathe
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #5 - 09/08/06 at 14:56:30
 
So Jay - are you saying I should ignore everything mechanic said about washers & a) take them out & do white spacer mod or b) leave therm in & just do the spacer mod?

thanks for measured response & in fact all responses

George Cheesy
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Dynobob
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #6 - 09/08/06 at 17:52:52
 
georgekathe wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:
...are you saying I should ignore everything mechanic said about washers & a) take them out & do white spacer mod or b) leave therm in & just do the spacer mod?

Hi George. There's two ways to richen the midrange - shave the white spacer to 1/2 or 2/3s or remove the white spacer and replace it with washers of 1/2 or 2/3s the height of the white spacer. Either one (but not both) will raise the needle approximately the same amount. Look at the diagram in the tech section on jetting and emulate it Grin

I'm not familiar with your muffler but I would definately go bigger on the main jet. I would say 155 at least. The 150 you have is just one size over stock (which is pretty lean).
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Jim_R
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #7 - 09/08/06 at 21:47:22
 
My old 95 I had I used a 152.5 with a pod filter and open turnout muffler (harley).  It seemed with a 155 it was a tiny boggy and a 157.5 was way too much.

I would go with a 152.5 and a 55 pilot jet.  File ur spacer down to 1/2 and adjust ur mixture screw.

If its still popping I would check exhaust for a leak.  Put ur hand down where the muffler connects with the header.  Check for black soot stains for leaks 2.
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azjay
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Re: more on jetting/carb work
Reply #8 - 09/10/06 at 06:27:29
 
georgekathe wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:
So Jay - are you saying I should ignore everything mechanic said about washers & a) take them out & do white spacer mod or b) leave therm in & just do the spacer mod?Cheesy


remove the washers, half the white spacer, find a new mechanic, it sounds like you're a good candidate Wink

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dyna muff,1/2 spacer,152.5,55,drilled air box,idle mix,spark plug door,harley bars & seat,spitfire windshield,turn signal,dunlops,man.pethingy,ISO pegs,engine cage,hiway pegs,support 81
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