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Gold pipe... (Read 3 times)
Veritas
Ex Member




Gold pipe...
09/03/06 at 10:02:49
 
I understand the gold pipe is a sign of a rich condition.  My stock 05 S40 is starting to show some gold at 2000 miles.  I thought the bikes came from the factory lean, thus bluing the pipe.  I am still getting all the backfires that come with the lean condition.  What could be causing this?
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Serowbot
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OK.... so what's the
speed of dark?

Posts: 28644
Tucson Az
Gender: male
Re: Gold pipe...
Reply #1 - 09/03/06 at 11:11:50
 
The pipe will go gold first, then blue, then blue black.  It means hot, hotter, hotter.  Running lean or rich can cause it.
If this is new to your bike it may be environmental.

In general...

thinner air = go leaner (Barometric pressure decrease)

hotter  air = go leaner
more humidity = go leaner
higher altidude = go leaner

thicker air = go richer (Barometric pressure increase)

cooler air = go richer
less humid = go richer
lower altitude = go richer


Barometric pressure effects jetting in a big way, humidity, air temp, and elevation.  Some places have extreme  variations in barometric pressures and if you live there, your pipe will blue.  I live in the high desert and temps can change 40 degrees f in a couple hours, humidity can vary wildly too.  No way to jet for that.  

Gold and blue are pretty!
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Ludicrous Speed !... ... Huh...
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Veritas
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Re: Gold pipe...
Reply #2 - 09/03/06 at 11:24:07
 
So what you're saying is I should still do the spacer and jetting mods?  I live on the east coast where one day it can be 60 and huimid, while the next day it can be 85 and pleasant.  You never know around here.

I guess I'll just start at the 1/2 spacer and brass plug screw and see what happens.

Oh, and if anyone around the Boston area can help me get my carb apart, I'd be greatly in debt to you and your family.  Yep, I stripped one of them and can't get to two of them.
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bholly12
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I love YaBB 1G -
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Starkville, MS
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Re: Gold pipe...
Reply #3 - 09/03/06 at 12:16:21
 
You should go ahead with the spacer & air screw adjustments to get rid of that irritating backfire!

I had trouble with the carb top screws also, a fat screwdriver and needlenose vise grips got them no problem.  You should be able to clamp down hard enough on the stripped one & one's you can't reach well to be able to remove them without  using a screwdriver.

And of course replace the screws with hex ones when you're done.

-Brad
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2006 Euclase Silver Metallic S40, Dyna muffler, K&N drop-in, 1/2 spacer mod, 152.5 main.
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