my  06 has a 10 amphour battery im sure it could be up graded..if you want a light bar id run a new fused feed from the battery.assuming you go with 2ea 55w halogen lights.....ohms law tells us P=I X E...............    p= power,watts
i=amps(wire and fuse sizing) e= volts 12
110 watts/12 volts=9.16 amps
#14 gauge automotive wire protected by a 10 amp fuse
insure your switch is rated 10 amps or better or run switching thru a relay...
have you found a light bar to fit ?? ive been looking but have yet to find one...

On the other board I read they usually add a relay when going with a lightbar. There have been cases of plastic parts in the handlebar controls (specifically the starter switch) getting toasted without one. I'm not sure if the Savage is prone to this or not. I would think adding a relay and a fuse would be cheap insurance.

Alright, something I have encountered and know the answer.
I started adding and adding and ended up with dead battery after two days to and from work.
I had changed the headlight to a 80/100w xenon bulb, (from stock 55/80) and a changed tail light from 35W to 45W bulb. Then I added two 35W running lights.  And then when I would run it all going and from work, I would only be up to speed about 10 minutes. Ran all at high output twice and had dead battery. Oops. Thought it was battery. Recharged and had same thing happen again. Then looked at output of stator/battery and draw from all the lights and the starter and lights were pulling more than the stator could compensate for. So I run running lights, and low head light, and put the bike to a smart charger and no problems.
One of the columnists from Motorcyclist mag said that this is a common problem as the engineers only plan for minimal add on electrical and when you try to add more, the battery can't handle the drain, and the stator puts out less than the draw, so it is in a negative state most of the time.
And he said even the big bikes are the same. They don't plan for you adding grip and vest heaters, big/bright light bars, etc..
Of course the longer you ride to and from before stopping, the more of a chance that you will output enough current to charge battery. Look at the comments about the horn add-ons, and how they dim the lights when they are engaged.
Oh well, one of the limitations.
It's still a fun bike to ride.
Bill  8)

if you want to check if your accs. are over drawing the alt., install a quality ammeter between the battery and ground. with all accs. on, bring rpms to about 2k, if ammeter stays to the neg. side, the battery WILL die, you are using more amps. than the alt. can produce, you MUST lighten the load on alt. as long as the ammeter stays to the pos. side, it will keep the battery up. No need to how many amps. just need to know that the alt is producing more of them than your total amp draw is using. BTDT many, many times on much,much larger peices of equipment than a Savage, hence my user name, diesel.

911radioman, that lightbar you are looking at - note the 'fit' on a Savage - see the red savage - note how the lights are far forward of the headlight.  I had it this way for a few years and finally got tired of it and cut the bracket and drilled two mounting holes so that the lights would be a bit closer and not look so stupid - the manufactor doesn't lie - it fits the Savage, just doesn't look right without some modification.  This 'fix' isn't perfect as it changes the angle of the lights - so the turn signals aren't straight up and down (the driving lights are adjustable so they aren't shining up into the trees at night).  Just thought I would let you know.  I haven't heard if anyone else has had this issue.  When I get around to it, I may see about a real fix so it isn't an issue with the turn signals.  fyi - I just uploaded another pic after the fix - last pic in the album.

Thanks, Tom.  Didn't realize you had that bar on your bike.  That is a little ugly looking with the lights way out in front like that.

Maybe I'll keep looking for another option before taking that step!