I am trying to get my Sportster muffler on my bike as we speak.  I have the stock muffler off, and there appears to be some sort of sleeve on the header pipe that I can't get off.  I can slide the Sportster muffler up just so far, but it looks like it needs to go about another 3/4 inch or so.  

I can't get it to go that 3/4 as it puts the muffler in a bind against the stock muffler mount back by the rear wheel.

I read over in the Tech section where somebody referenced to bending that stock muffler mount.  Is this something that you have to do in order to get the Sportster muffler on?  The reason I ask is that the sleeve on the header pipe I'd like to keep on there as it shims the Sportster muffler very well.

The only other alternative I see if I don't remove the shim or bend the rearward stock bracket is to get some kind of offset adapter, but from what I can tell, the offset adapter shouldn't really be necessary unless you're putting on the Dyna pipes?

I could sure use some quick help here if anybody can provide me with some needed answers!

Go to your local auto supply store and get a standard 1 3/4" muffler clamp (U clamp). With that you can force it to seal to the pipe and it works. Cost around 2 bucks.

Ike

Yeah, I just discovered that about the HD clamp.  Sheared the bolt off trying to get it tight enough.

Well, I knocked off for the night after breaking the clamp.  I'll stop by an auto parts store in the morning when I get off work and buy the clamp.

It was a bit of a challenge getting the HD muff to bolt up at the tab.  Like I said, it looks like it was a LH muff rather than a RH, but I got it.  

The leak was an ever so small leak so it won't take much to close it off, just more than what the stock clamp was able to do.  Even at that, I can slice up a soda pop can and shim it if need be.

Thanks for the help!

had the sporty on my 06 s 40 didnt like the soot on my brake arm did sound good tho..i lossed the head pipe at the head to give me wiggle room on the upper heat shied theres two insulatotrs the head rest aginst i used those asw a refrence as i slid the muff on the hd clamp still need a beer can gasket to get a good seal jcw has reducers that work better for 3.99..irolled the hd muff with the head pipe losse and from underneath i drilled into stock arm for carrage bolt no bending needed..got a 7' crome heat shield from jcw to cover the transition..
would consider putting it back on if could aim the soot from the brake lever.. now im running a jcw turn out its one LOU son of a pipe !!

This is a clamp that I use, it is STRONG STEEL WITH A THREADED BOLT FOR MAX CLAMPING FORCE.
It is found on www.jirehcycles.com, part #66-48 and 49, prices at $10.95/pr.  

These clamps WILL tighten any muffler on the header pipe.

My solution was a little different. I went to a local custom bike shop and explained my problem. I did not like the looks of the car u-bolt clamp. He had sitting in his toolbox a clamp that is heavy steel that was chromed. It was 1 1/2" wide. The only problem was that it had a 90 degree bend to function as a lock to prevent over tightening (which is exactly what i wanted to do). My grinder made short work of the problem and I now have a nice smooth chrome look that is wide enough, and strong enough, to cover connection. He charged be about a buck for the clamp.

The 10 degree bend was the perfect solution for me.  I used stainless steel clamps that are easily hidden out of the way.  You can also buy a lube to seal the gap between the components.  That's what the sport bikers with slip-ons use.

The muffler was about one inch lower than the old brace. I just built an extension to bridge the gap to bolt the muffler on.  Someone on eBay sells a better designed one (s-shaped).

Would this product be acceptable to use to seal the muffler joint as well?

http://www.permatex.com/motorcycle/RecProd.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item...