The white spacer is the hardest part of a complete rejet. To reinstall those tiny little screws that hold the white spacer in, tape the screws to your phillips screwdriver with a bit of electrical tape. This will save you a ton of headaches.

To do the mixture screw you just drill through the cap over the screw, thread a sheetmetal screw into the hole, and pull the plug. Be very careful while drilling. Use light pressure and stop frequently. It is very easy to drill through the plug and hit the mixture screw.

The main jet is super easy. Pull off the float bowl (the bottom of the carb), unscrew the old jet, and screw in the new. Be careful not to disturb or bend the float. Go to your local dealer and order a large, round Mikuni jet from Parts Unlimited or try to get one from a Harley dealer.

Reelthing wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:

And (some of) the European carbs use smaller jets.

Jesse Cremeans wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:

You shouldn't change the pilot jet unless you have to back out the idle mixture screw more than three turns (from all the way in).  Pull your main jet and see what it is so you know for sure.  It'll be stamped into it.

in addition you may not need the spacer mod if your needle has the 3 groves - then you can just move the cring clip/keeper

In a nutshell the adjustments are going to be the easy part - getting that '87 carb apart without strip'n the screws is going to be the hard part - and by all means replace the screws with stainless allen heads if you can them at the hardware store

ive taken the carb apart twice before and buying new alen head screws sounds like a great idea right about now.. ive gotten the air box out so i can put the k&n in, and i took my header off so i can paint it flat black since its chrome days ended long ago.. one question i have is.. what are the two black hoses connecting directly to the BOTTOM of the airbox, i know the one on the top front is the crankcase breather hose i beileve? but those two on the bottom i am not sure what they are.. also on the exhaust side of the bike coming right along next to the brake cable there is a cable that then turns and runs up behind the airbox. part of this cable is twisted, well the black plastic goes in a spiral fasshion and there is a tiny metal spring connecting one part of the cable to the other. well the spring has long since rusted out and is not connected anymore..  ive also discovered the bike is stuck on PRI.   so when i ran the bike last fall that cable was broken and the bike was on PRI the whole time.. what effect would these have on its performance?

thanks guys, ill check the search option and browse the tech, for some info

Can't thank you guys enough,
jesse

The hose on the bottom of the airbox is a drain in the event that oil backs up through the breather hose.  You should remove the plug and drain it every now and then to keep from having any buildup in the airbox.

I believe the other hose is your battery vent and doesn't actually come from the airbox.

The cable you mentioned I don't have a real mental picture of and I'd have to look at the bike later to figure it out, I guess.  It may go to the brake light.

Being stuck on PRI is alway allowing fuel to flow to the carb and will flood it when it's not running.  That's something you'll need to address.  If you can't get it unstuck, you'll probably need to replace the petc0ck.  Either that or put an inline on-off valve between it and your carb.  If you do that, you have to remember to shut it off every time you shut down the engine.  I'd recommend replacing the petc0ck if you aren't able to fix it so that you'll be able to take advantage of the reserve capacity.