Performance tinkering with our Savage Beasts is fun and can be very rewarding. Better performance requires a number of improvements, like ... more air, more fuel, less restrictive exhaust, better flowing intake, hotter/longer spark and other things like better lubrication to help run cooler (again for better performance) . If any of you are interested, I can produce several articles over the next few weeks dealing with some of the more un-usual things we can do to make our Savages better and mo' powerful.
i look forward to your input and sharing as many of you are Savage tweaking geniuses.
Thanks for reading
Ike

Here is number 1 ...

Following is a test performed by a Harley owner comparing Mobil1 Synth to the HD brand. I have used it on my last Savage and am going to use Mobil 1 when I put my current Savage back together and thought this artice may be of interest to many of you.

The Bottom Line: In both of the extreme operating conditions described, the oil temperature reading on my HD dipstick was reduced by 25 degrees to 50 degrees as compared to the benchmark tests which I had conducted earlier using HD's conventional "360" dyno oil. In fact, during the extended idling and parade duty test, the maximum observed  temperature was only 180 degrees using Mobil 1, as compared to the 230 degrees which I used to observe with the HD oil. Temperature during extensive high speed highway riding topped out at 225 degrees with the Mobil 1, but used to top out at 250 using the HD oil. Needless to say, this kind difference is indeed significant, especially considering that the actual temperature of the oil in the engine is approximately 10% higher than the dipstick reads, and that conventional dyno oil starts to break down at 250 degrees! At the end of the grueling 1975 mile Myrtle Beach trip, the Mobil 1 in the oil tank still looked light and clean, and smelled fresh - there was non of the usual browning in color which used to happen with the conventional HD oil.

Side Effects of the Mobil 1: I did not experience any noticeable reduction in valvetrain noise, as some listers have reported. Also, my engine did not start leaking oil  - at least, not through any fault of the oil's. [NOTE: During the trip, the center rocker box cover on the rear cylinder shifted and caused a massive oil leak. This shift was due to the rocker box being improperly torqued down by the last person who touched it, a "certified" HD mechanic, during the S/E head swap.] However, there was one significant side effect - The engine takes much longer to warm up using Mobil 1. The bike needs to run for about 15 minutes, or about 10 miles, before it reaches normal operating temperature or idling speed - this is about twice as long as usual. This can be annoying if you take frequent short trips around town, but I suppose it's an unavoidable result of Mobil 1's superior cooling properties.

Cost / Benefit: A 6-can case of Mobil 1 15W/50 as shown above (and as tested in AIM by Donny Petersen) sells for approximately $24 on sale, putting the cost per quart at right around the same level as conventional HD oil. However, judging by the recommended service intervals of other vehicles which use synthetic oil as standard equipment, you can use the synthetic oil for twice as long as conventional. I used to change my HD oil every 2,500 miles - now, I can use the Mobil 1 for a full 5,000 miles. Therefore, it is actually cheaper and less time consuming to use synthetic oil.

Disclaimer: For all interested - you should definitely pick up the aforementioned copies of American Iron magazine, or visit Donny Petersen's Heavy Duty Cycles, and read up on the subject of oil before deciding to switch to synthetic. The tests I conducted and temperatures I recorded were for a non-stock bike (S/E Head configuration) ridden under extreme conditions - it is perfectly normal for your bike to get different results. However, the general outcome will most likely be the same. In this case, given the real world proof of my tests, I am totally sold on the benefits of synthetic oil, and I plan to use it exclusively in my Sportster from now on.

The complete article is available at:
http://www.mklsportster.com/xloil.htm

I started using Amsoil synthetic after my engine rebuild following the massive oil loss incident.   I put a couple of hundred miles on it with the oil the shop used when they put it together, then did the oil change with synthetic, and have used it ever since.  I like it.

Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:


you are correct,the transmission oil is totally differant than the engine oil.

Reelthing wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:

Is that Dino, Synth or Blend?

Good to know.  I wasn't sure if Mobil might have various types under the Mobil 1 brand or not.

A few of us have done a little touch work on the exhaust port but I am not aware of anyone who has done the "full monty" on a flow bench.  Beyond that, having a performance grind put on the cam and carb/exhaust mod's is pretty much the extent of what most have done.  
There has been a photo of a Savage with a turbocharger on it and I believe that was from Europe...but I am not positive.
If you want particulars of specific mod's you can find it in  the "tech" section.

Does this mean that My API SG grade 100% synth. 10w/40 is OK ?

Clive W  

While I haven't gotten into the molecular construction of engine lubricants, my general understanding is that synthetics can go roughly twice as long as dino juice between changes due to reduced viscosity breakdown.  Running an air-cooled engine in TX, it seemed like a good idea to use synthetic but still change it every 3K miles.  That said, I chose a motorcycle-specific synthetic to avoid any potential clutch slippage issues.  So far, it seems to be working well.  I am considering trying a blend when I run out of my current stock.  Oh, and I decided on 15W50 based solely on the climate/temperature ranges for my area.