steve 530 is probably right.........
but just to eliminate a bulb error.....
have you tried taking out the good left bulbs and installing them in the bad right side and vice-versa?
while you have the bulbs out look at the sockets for difference in fit and any arcing/charred contacts.

well, the bulbs were difficult going in just because fat fingers in little spaces, righty tighty, loosey lefty sort of thing. I don't think that's it, but I can switch left for right.

What about the blinker switch? Even my dad said he told me that, but I thought he meant the blinking bulb. I looked in the service manual and there is the blinker gizmo that is what makes things blink, it is called "Turn Signal Switch".

That's where I'm thinking, because, before the bulb I thought was broken was removed, only the one filament worked. It didn't look broken tho, after I did get it out. Next bulb did same problem, and this bulb does same problem. It does not affect just the front, it affects all blinking on the right: Front, rear bulbs and signal indicator.

Tomorrow I can still change left for right bulbs.

Special Ed  did get a bath tho, saddlebags off, polished up and spiffy. And I did take a 2 mile spin at the end of the day, just to do it. No MC gear tho: just my boots, jeans and ski jacket, helmet and gloves, So, I was chilly, but the 2 miles was fun.

Gerry

run a solid ground to the quick blinker, that bulb has no ground and is going to ground through the other filement, therefor not enough amperage draw to operate flasher(relay) quick check, small jumper from light to good frame ground, what have you got to lose? I've been wrong before, try it.

Perry's foil is easy to do, I'll try that one.

diesel, I'm not sure what you mean. A ground wire from inside the light to the frame? to test the circuit. Would that do same as the foil?

And, Steve.... LOL, yeah, I guess that's the one. For reason, I was thinking it would be under the seat someplace, but yep, I guess you are right, it's the switch on the left handlebar. for some reason I was thinking of something smaller, more "electronic" in nature, like the way a fuse might be.

Well, coffee will be the first (and most important) tool of the day, so I'll report back later today.

Thanks everyone.

Gerry

Gerry,

The bulb is grounded through the base.  That's why wrapping a piece of aluminum foil around the bulb was suggested. If the base is not making good contact with the base, the aluminum foil acts as a conductive shim.

Diesel is suggesting you make sure the socket is grounded.  For example, you might want to strip the insulation off a piece of stranded wire and put it in the socket along the base of the bulb. Then run the wire to a good ground. If the flaseher works right at that point, then you have a ground problem.

Steve

Oh, ok I understand what you're saying.

The foil was forgotten, and I won't get to do this til next week now, so I'll be ready to report back then.

Thanks guys!

Gerry

Ha ha!! thanks Sluggo! That's about the best advice so far! But here in NY the rule says (according the the AMA site) signals required if manufactured in 1985 or after.

Gerry