I like your style there WunGun.  

I use a long piece of all thread and two nuts locked on each end.  Just saves me from having to use extensions and fishing bolts and crap out of the fork.  Same concept though.

I found a different way to do this w/out buying any new tools... it just so happens that the rear axle nut is the right size to hold the inner damper tube on the inside.

You'll need a spare rear axle with the hex head end, a nut, and the axle nut.
You'll also need a 14mm socket, a 12" extension and ratchet.
And maybe some wire if you don't want flip the fork tube upside down to get your tools back.

I had another nut w/out the thread locker to use as a lock nut, using the rear axle as the bolt, spin the lock nut on then the axle nut and torque them onto the end of the axle.

Now you can wire the 14mm socket and extension together with the axle.

I put a 8mm hex wrench in a vise on the floor, sat the fork tube assembly on it, dropped the axle/extension assembly onto that and turned it with the ratchet.

Easier than doing it with the broom stick.

Great trick using broom stick to stop damper rod from spinning when removing bottom bolt. My forks look nothing like the schematic in the Clymer manual when it comes to the bottom components of the bottom of the inner tubes.They have nothing remotely resembling the oil lock pieces. There is a slot on the inside of the inner tube that has a plastic piece in it.
This piece does not show up on any schematics that I`ve looked at so far. I broke the one fork`s mystery plastic piece so I am looking for a replacement. I`m wondering about just taking the other fork`s mystery plastic piece out and using the oil lock pieces like shown in the Clymer schematic.  Partzilla and Revzilla both do not have the oil lock piece in stock so I gotta wait for them to come in. Any ideas?