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Make your own forward controls (Read 1207 times)
Nightrain
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Make your own forward controls
05/09/05 at 08:22:21
 
    This is just a general how-to guide on what I did, to move my existing controls forward. Basically I just made up a set of steel extension plates. The cool thing about these controls is that it requires no modification of your existing controls. If you decide that you want to switch back to stock, it can be done in less than an hour. The other cool thing is that total parts and labor were less than 100 bones (keep in mind that I scored a few freebies)
    Only you know your own technical ability…you may want to farm out some parts of this to a machine shop or figure out a better way. For example, I don’t have a welder, so I had to farm out the welding to the local high school, The Quincy Center for Technical Education (which they did for free, Thanks).
    Also, These are not actually on my bike yet, as the shifter rod I ordered from Midwest Control Products will take 4 weeks to fabricate. I am still waiting. I will post absolute finished pictures once they are completely installed, I just wanted to get what I have to date on the board.  
 
   Here is what I did:
1.      Step one is to decide how much you want to move your existing controls forward and the exact positions and such. I made a set of cardboard templates, which I then transferred to sheet metal, which I then transferred to 3/8 steel. It is much easier to make mistakes and have to re-cut sheet metal than it is to cut 3/8 steel. Cutting 3/8 steel is a bi*ch and I used about 10 cutting blades on my grinder.



2     Step 2. Trace out the template on to 3/8 steel. You may use thinner or thicker steel or aluminum depending on your personal preference. I used 3/8 because I know it will be strong enough to support the bike, thinner or aluminum may be easier to cut, but I cannot vouch for the strength of it. Keep in mind that your existing sidestand which is supporting  the weight of the bike will need to be supported by these steel plates.



3.      Step 3 Cut the steel in the desired shape. I used a grinder with a cutting wheel. You may also use a jigsaw or the like.

4.      Step 4. This is the hardest part of the whole thing, You have to make a bracket to hold the rear brake cable. The bracket can be seen on the stock right hand control. This bracket will allow the rear brake cable and the rear brake light cable to remain in their stock location. This bracket will have to be welded to the steel plate. You will have to mock the location to see where it fits best, mark it, then remove it and have it welded.







5.      Step 5. Fabricate an extension rod out of flat 1/8 steel to actuate the rear brake cable.



6.      Step 6. Order a longer shift rod from Midwest control products. They have a ton of cool sh*t and you can order it right online for short money. Don’t call them! The price for doing it online is much cheaper and they have exactly what you need. Their website is
www.midwestcontrol.com
and the part number is TR6-320 or TR6-330 depending on where you like the location of the shifter. The TR -320 is 320mm long and the TR6-330 is 330mm long. The longer the rod the further back the shifter control will be. It will most likely take about 6 weeks for them to fabricate it and ship it to you so plan ahead.

7.      Step 7. Spray paint it (I happen to like flat black)…Or, if you like chrome (Not my style), then chrome it. Or powder coat it or just leave it alone and let it rust. The choice is entirely up to you. Wink

8.      Step 8. bolt it together and ride the sh*t out of it. And your knees will no longer be in you throat. If your like me, you wont have to ride on the b*tch pad to keep your Friggin knees from aching. And you didnt have to pony up $550 to seeger.  Sweet Salvation!












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« Last Edit: 12/04/12 at 11:02:17 by Serowbot »  
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Ed L.
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Re: Make your own forward controls
Reply #1 - 01/14/06 at 16:45:20
 
Here's a different set of forward controls I've been working on made out of 6061 aluminium 1/2 inch plate. I'm using aluminium because it is easier to cut and I've a band saw set up with a 3/8 18tpi metal cutting blade.
A saber saw should cut the aluminium as well but would take forever and use up blades. Here are some pictures of the work so far.
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/500402/
This shows the wood templates and the roughcut aluminium plates.
the next three are of the forward control plates on the bike for the first time, still needing the brake bracket, brake rod and shifter rod.
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/500403/
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/500404/
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/500405/
 The brake cable bracket is made out of angle iron with a 7/16 inch hole drilled in it for the brake cable mount and a 1/4 inch hole drilled in it for the rear brake light cable and bolts onto the back of the right plate. I slotted the brake cable hole using a 4" high speed grinder. The rear brake light hole was slotted using a hacksaw then the slot was spread with a cold chistle and hammer. Currently I'm on my fourth design for the brake cable bracket, the extra thickness of the aluminium plate really doesn't give much room to work with.
   

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Silver '02, clubman handle bars, Cobra headlight, Sportster muffler, K+N stock air filter, 152.5 main, Superbrace, oil cooler, 1/2 inch aluminium plate forward controls, spark advance, goes like stink
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Kropatchek
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Re: Make your own forward controls
Reply #2 - 01/23/06 at 05:58:12
 
Link to a German E-bay sale of FWD controls.http://cgi.ebay.de/Fussrastenanlage-vorverlegt-fuer-SUZUKI-LS-650_W0QQitemZ80...

Maybe not for reading but the wrenches and other DiY people might get some more ideas by looking at the pictures.

Greetz
Kropatchek Grin
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Never ask your bike to scream before her throat is warm.
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