What is the wattage on the new bulbs that you installed?

Front or back?

Low Wattage bulbs shouldn't make a diff, they'll just burn dimmer.  I do believe.

Now if you were plugging 6 volt bulbs in a 12 volt system that might make a diff.

Are you sure it wired to the turnsignal circuit not the running lights?

Your front signals are 3 wire (w/ running lights) and the rear are just 2 wire.  These are the correct lights, right?

As for watts...in DC that is volts X current.  Since the volts haven't changed, then if they are higher watt bulbs they require more current.  I'm thinking that if the wattage on the bulbs are too high then you don't have enough current to operate the flasher relay and they stay on.

If they are lower wattage they will blink faster than normal too....more power for the flasher.  You'll notice that when one bulb is out too (half watts).

Let me ask this....does your indicator plus both front and rear (on either side) stay on when this happens?

Quote:


Most modern blinkers will quit if you burn out a bulb. This is a similar problem as the circuit only sees less than 1/2 the current it used to see w/ the 23W bulbs.
So now it thinks one of them is burnt out.

Hmmm, Mr.Ohm says E/IxR or W=ExI, so we need to pull the same current as the old bulbs to make the blinkers click.
(Ya’ll please check  my math, used to do this long ago)
Try this on for size;
Old bulbs were 23W= 12V x I or 23W/12V = 1.916666 Amps or just say they pull 2 amps.

You now have only 10 W/12V or .8333333 amps/bulb.
We need more amps. ???

23W-10W =13W, we need 13 more watts to get back to where we were so,
13W/12V=1.08333333 or just say we need to pull about one more amp (per bulb). R=12v/1A or a 12 ohm resistor rated like 15 to 20 watts.
Go with the higher wattage that will fit inside the housing. May be easier to find a more powerful 20 to 25 watt bulb that fits your new socket or add 1 more bulb for each housing than attempt to parallel a resistor across each socket.
Therefore, if you cannot find a 20W to 25W bulb to fit in your existing socket, then you could use four resistors of approximately 12 ohms, rated 15 watts, or more, across each existing bulb or parallel a second 10W bulb in each housing. Check Radio Shack or local electronics supply house. Look at the parts to see if thay are small enough to fit inside the blinker housing. Then just parallel each resistor (or second 10W to 12W bulb) across each existing bulb.
It should work;

1st check to see if you can find bulbs that are rated 20 to 25 watts that will just plug in, if not
I hope the new resistors or new bulbs will fit in your smaller blinker housings. Those little resistors that look like little ceramic bricks ought to do the job.
My brand new '86-'03 Clymer manual just hit the mail slot. I will need to study it for a while; there is likely a better way.

Seems like the High Plains Thumper worked on similar problems a couple of years ago only they were using the cool new LEDs too.
Opps, that website is down.

I found out that the best way to fix the problem is with a load equalizer.  I was able to find them for $4.95 a piece.  Supposedly I need one for each side.  I went  ahead and picked up 4 of them (in case I need one for each light or if I screw one up! )  I'll let you know if it works when they come in.

What are these Eq's? How are they supposed to worK?
In the mean time try those resistors across the new lights. they should only be about $1  ea. or less.