SuzukiSavage.com - BRAKE JOB

Gregski Ex Member	BRAKE JOB 03/15/04 at 10:42:29 Just found out my local Suzuki Stealership in Sacramento, CA charges the following to do your brakes on the Suzuki Savage: === PARTS === Front Pads $28.00 Rear Shoes $27.00 === LABOR === Front $35.00 (.5 hours) Rear $63.00 (.9 hours) thought I would share to give you all an idea, Gregski
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ironman Ex Member	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #1 - 03/16/04 at 05:05:10 Get a manual and do them yourself if you are familiar with turning a wrench. Really the labor charges don't sound that bad compared to some of my local dealers. $69.00 an hour flat rate for any job is what we have from all of them here...(sounds like a conspiracy huh?)
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Gregski

Ex Member

Re: BRAKE JOB
Reply #2 - 03/16/04 at 13:38:38

I am planning on doing them myself, and making some BBQ ribs with the money saved over. Actually I hope my bro will help me. I figure I need to get familiar with this bike because I do want to make a chopper out of it after all. So when I take the rear wheel off I can check out that rear fender and start mocking something up. It shouldn't be too hard, and it will give me a sense of accomplishment and build my confidence when I get it done.

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tekxtc

Ex Member

Re: BRAKE JOB
Reply #3 - 11/03/04 at 12:08:18

My front brake pads are all worn out and I will be putting the new EBC pads over the coming weekend. I was looking thru the older topics and I thought of continuing this thread instead of creating another one.

I was wondering if there is any gotchas in the process. I have the clymer, it basically says losen the allen bolt, remove the caliper from the forks and disc, remove the allen bolt, remove the pads, put the disc brake lube in the pistons and on the back of the pads, and put everything back together.

So anything that you guys experienced that may be I should know about? Also, do you "break in" the brake pads like you break in the tires and the engine or the like? How? Let me know.

Autif

The other links are:

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

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Savage_Greg Serious Thumper Alliance Member Offline Don't go around your ass to reach your elbow... Posts: 7844 SW Washington State Gender:	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #4 - 11/03/04 at 12:16:38 There are also 2 guide pins for the caliper to "float" on. Being careful not to tear the rubber seals, a little bit of lithium grease would be good to keep those sliding nicely. Aside from that, you pretty much got the rest, and I've never done anything but start riding after that
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Savage_Greg Serious Thumper Alliance Member Offline Don't go around your ass to reach your elbow... Posts: 7844 SW Washington State Gender:	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #5 - 11/03/04 at 13:07:16 Take a look in the Technical Corner. I just posted some pics of the brake job.
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AL_DOWN_UNDER Ex Member	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #6 - 11/03/04 at 22:49:22 HEY IRONMAN WHAT SORT OF DOLLARS ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT, US , ENG , OR WHAT
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Savage_Rob Serious Thumper Alliance Member Offline Mechanically Inclined Amateur Posts: 6972 Texas (Dallas area) Gender:	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #7 - 11/04/04 at 05:56:27 Since he's talking about Sacramento, CA, I would assume US$.
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MacAttack Ex Member	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #8 - 06/20/06 at 16:06:55 That's not too bad a price, actually! You can do it yourself in those times, the second time you do it.
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smokey02 Full Member Offline Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like bananas Posts: 233 Alta Loma, California Gender:	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #9 - 06/20/06 at 22:23:46 Bleed the brakes first, then change the pads. Then you won't cause the master cyl to overflow when you open the calipers to accept the new (and thicker) brake pads.
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MacAttack Ex Member	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #10 - 06/21/06 at 12:37:52 You don't need to bleed the brakes if you are only changing the pads.
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smokey02 Full Member Offline Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like bananas Posts: 233 Alta Loma, California Gender:	Re: BRAKE JOB Reply #11 - 06/22/06 at 01:10:33 The choice was pull off the cap and remove some excess fluid so it would not overflow, or just bleed some fluid off. Previous owner had it very full of brake fluid, it was way above the sight glass.
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thumperclone

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Alliance Member

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PGR rider riding
with respect

Posts: 6142
Grand Junction Colorado
Gender: male

Re: BRAKE JOB
Reply #12 - 06/22/06 at 10:59:09

give a holler when the ribs are ready!! ill bring the beer Grin

Gregski wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:

I am planning on doing them myself, and making some BBQ ribs with the money saved over. Actually I hope my bro will help me. I figure I need to get familiar with this bike because I do want to make a chopper out of it after all. So when I take the rear wheel off I can check out that rear fender and start mocking something up. It shouldn't be too hard, and it will give me a sense of accomplishment and build my confidence when I get it done.

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standing for those who stood for US

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MacAttack

Ex Member

Re: BRAKE JOB
Reply #13 - 06/22/06 at 11:53:17

smokey02 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

The choice was pull off the cap and remove some excess fluid so it would not overflow, or just bleed some fluid off. Previous owner had it very full of brake fluid, it was way above the sight glass.

Oh, sorry! Yes I left out the part about compressing the piston/having to take the cap off the master cylinder. Another way to remove excess fluid is with a turkey baster.

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