Hi to all! Been reading this board for 6 months now ever since I bought my 2000 Savage. Have learned a lot.
But, I don't seen where anyone has addressed the issue of how to adjust the rear shock springs for pre-load.  Supposed to be 5 settings.  I found the hole in the spring lower seat and tried pushing a steel punch into it, but nothing moves and I can't turn the spring base. I have to almost stand on the foot pegs when going over rough railroad tracks to keep from flatening my tailbone. I'd like to adjust them to a lighter number.  Anyone know how to do this?

I can turn mine by hand with the weight off the back of the bike.  You're right about the hole at the bottom of the shock - it's to poke a punch into and wrestle the shock around.  Might only be able to turn it one way if you're up against the lowest setting - which it sounds like you are - and that one way is probably into the tire, and the punch don't wanna go - is that it?

Try lifting the back of the bike to get the weight off, with an engine lift or bike jack or 4x4 wood blocks, two buddies, etc.  then you should be able to turn the shock bottom easier.

Last ditch - remove the shocs and stick eht in a vise (by a bar thru the eye bolt) and twist thataway.

Let us know how it works (or doesn't)

Thanks for the helpful replies. I sprayed some wd-40 in the hole and smacked it a couple times with a hammer and it moved! Counter clockwise from the top view seems to lower the spring base, so I assume that will result in more spring rebound and a softer ride. Anyone know different? Could only move one side 2 clicks and the other 3, but I think I ended up in the lowest setting. I only weigh 180 so maybe this will soften up the harder bounces somewithout bottoming out. Let you know after I get a chance to test it.

Here is the shock adjuster with the chrome cover removed.  Both shocks turn the same direction, but the hole in the cover can be difficult to reach sometimes.  You can turn the adjuster continuously 1-2-3-4-5...1-2-3-4-5 and so on if you turn it to the left(in picture).  But if you turn it to the right, it will stop at the cam position between 1 and 5 and go no more.

With the cover on, you have to get down on the floor and look up in the chrome cover to see where you are in the adjustment.

Oh yeah, you might need to squirt some WD40 in there if it hasn't been turned in a while.

surplusguy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:


AT over 200, I run at setting #3 and #4 if I have luggage.  I took the chrome covers off just so I could change them without laying on the floor, too.

I'm getting ready to try a set of air shocks...adjustable ride height and comfort level. If that doesn't work, hardtail and sprung seat. Anything would be better than my worn out stockers.  
-WD

If it can't bottom out the rear end, no major extra "jolt" every time I hit a bump. Without the shock dampening, the springs can/do rebound pretty violently, causing an extra bounce or two, sometimes more. Sprung seats and lower rear tire pressure will actually absorb the jolts better than shocks with dead hydraulics. I rode rigid frames for years. I actually prefer them to a swingarm frame for ride quality and handling.

Yes I have a bad back. Yes, rigids are also known as "bleeding kidney/fused vertebrae" bikes. However, a properly suspended seat takes out most of the problems associated with rigid frames.
-WD

Besides, I'm pretty sure the air shocks will work, I've got two sets I can play with and see if they will work. Work lets me mess with test fitting to my heart's content, my custom Savage ends up selling a lot of extra chopper parts on the days I ride to work...

I'm planning to test fit both sets this afternoon. If either or both are adequate, I'll need to come up with $200 quick fast and in a hurry. Struts, pre-made, are all of $20. Sprung solo to go with, $66. Whatever it takes, I'm not quite ready to plunk down the money on a bigger bike with real suspension (no matter how desperately I need to, the Savage is too small, even with high bars).
-WD