I got a 1987 ls650, do i need to change anything before mounting a lithium battery.

If you've never soldered, I wouldn't recommend you start with that.

Pick up a hunk of wiring harness from a junk yard so you have different colors, sort out the sizes, a heavier jumper is okay, skinnier, not recommended.

Peel back tape, expose enough of a run to allow easy access, you will need wire cutters, strippers, butt connections and the pliers, well, they strip and cut, but the stripper part is kinda big and clunky. And they have flat spots for crimping butt connections on.

Get a few to waste.
Don't go crazy crushing the connections.
You can make the wire break in a few days.

If you pay attention to how you go about it you can stagger your splices so you don't wind up with a lump of butt connections to tape up.
Get some Made in America electrical tape.
You want to wrap,position your hands, unwrap a bit, pull tight, are
, walk it around, go back, wrapping again, til you like it.

It's not something most folks can wrap their head around, to cut more wire out instead of slamming connectors in, but I think you'll be ahead to cut wires out to different lengths so the repairs aren't all in one place.


You can get strippers for about twenty bucks like electricians use, put the wire in, lined up in the stripper to the right gauge wire, squeeze the handles and it grabs the wire and strips it.
You still need the ugly,cheap, not so good stripper available at harbor freight for crimping and cutting wires.

I'd want an Xacto for getting tape off.
I'm not there
Can't lay hands on it
If you just want to clean up the damage and put splices in, if you have room to do it, that would be quicker, just lumpy,
Buy some60\40 solder, resin, not acid core. Get a good soldering iron, tin the tip, tin some wires and solder them up.
You Tube surely has tutorials on soldering.
Connecting wires and running them in a line is easy.
Strip them
Lay the ends side by side
Like fingers pointing at each other
Then cross them in the middle
Wrap one wire one way
The other wire the other way
Solder that up

If you're completely prepared you slipped heat shrink tubing on the wire. Now slide it down the soldered joint and heat it. Tidy repair there

The 10mm  ID one has an insert 10mm ID  and 15mm OD
The  14 mm ID one has an insert 14mm ID  and !9mm OD
[nominal dimensions]

 Here's tonight's project...Also put some awesome rockin' 3D silver Suzuki decals from ChinaBay.

 SoC, I can't remember where exactly I bought the fender...I think it was a $100 ebay special from 4 years ago that I had purchased for a CX500 build that I lost interest in. Ya, I wanted to attach it to the swingarm so I could get it closer the the tire.

I made another thread on the forum here--> http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1611215123

There you can see a few more details on the fender mounting.

 I've always been bad at keeping a photo record of my projects...but here goes. It's still far from finished but I think it's coming along. I'll try to post more pics as I go...

Someone was cutting a few ignition switch wirings in our parking building.

I don't know much about soldering but would this be simple enough for me to learn and fix myself?

Graphs say it all.    AMD could sell more if it could make more.  

7nm is full up at this stage of things as everyone is rolling over to 5nm soon.   AMD is asking TSMC for more 5nm chiplet production capacity allocation ASAP.   Samsung is also being requested for more production allocation of 5nm AMD chiplets.

AMD NEEDS MORE CHIPLETS !!!!!!

Yes, go ahead and change out the white spacer while you’ve got the carb out.
Be careful with the tiny screws in the bottom of the slide, they are soft metal and strip easily.  I open the jaws of a vice just slightly to slide the needle between them until the slide is sitting on the vice top, then tighten the vice just a little.  This will hold it in place and provide a solid base to use a small impact driver or good fitting screwdriver to remove the screws without stripping them.  Replace the stock screws with good stainless screws.

If they strip out and you need to drill them be careful doing so.

Good start there.  General rules are that you want create a straight line of some sort with the seat and tank.  In a perfect world the end of your seat or some other part of body work will line up over the rear axle.  This doesn't mean that you can't take liberties, these things lead to a better looking bike.

I didn't use the stock rear brake cable.  I found a set of pegs and controls from an XS400 and just made them fit.

I more or less stole all of the best ideas I could find on here and made it as simple as I could.  I broke it down into smaller chunks and made sure it was operational along the way.  I didn't touch my stock forward controls or kickstand until I had the seat and tank in place.   I didn't do the seat and tank until I had the suspension done.  I did most of my jetting before I even started my build.  The worst thing to do is take everything apart and not get it put back together.