Regarding Dave's comment on difficulty tuning:  That's why I view the project as fun and interesting.  I agree that tuning the large venturi carb will be challenging and I view it as a good chance to learn a thing or two.  The S&S was specifically designed for Harley big twins ranging from 57 through 80 cubic inches.  That works out to about 28 to 40 cubic inches per cylinder.  The carb only feeds one cylinder at a time so I think I have a decent chance at adapting it to the LS40.  If its a flop, all I have lost is the time I spend since I already have the carb.  I ran the specific Super-E on my Softail for many years.  It performed flawlessly, and I really saw no difference in response and drivability between the S&S and the stock Kehin.  Of course the overall flow through the carb is higher in the twin cylinder application, but the velocity when it's feeding only one of the two cylinders should be fairly close, especially if the twin is an 883.  I think it can work.  If I can successfully get the Super-E workin on the Savage we will have another mixer to choose from.

Hey SpammyToo: Please tell me more about your brother's experience.  Where did he get a manifold from?  Do you know if he played with the air bleeds or did he confine his efforts to the main jet and intermediate jet?  When he gave-up on the S&S, what sort of Kehin carb did he then install?  Was it a Harley take-off like the one I tested?  Was he able to tune it using available Harley jets?

Thanks for the offer Lancer.  I sent you a PM.

Fast650:  IMO, the stroke on the LS is pretty reasonable for what I want to achieve.  With a 3.7" stroke, the average piston speed at 6500 rpm is 4008 fpm, well below the accepted standard of 4500 fpm for a street engine.  At 7000 rpm the average piston speed is 4316 fpm.  We ought to be able to make 1.25 HP/cubic inch at 7000 rpm or less.  I think 50 HP is a reasonable objective.  I agree that if I decided to challenge one of these modern single-cylinder engines I would need to increase the redline dramatically.  With the current cylinder head, bore & stroke I think it would be impossible.  But a 50 HP Savage cruiser would be killer fun.

The Harley crowd routinely make 100 reliable HP with 80 inch Evolution Big Twins.  That's 50 HP per cylinder with a 4.25" stroke.  If a pushrod, two-valve EVO can make 1.25 HP per cubic inch, our overhead cam four-valve metric motor can make 1.25 HP per cubic inch.  We can do this.

I must admit, I got a good chuckle out of that Dave.

I've got a related question about the RYCA rearsets - I'm working on fabricating my own brackets, but when I look at the bike, the clearance between the belt and frame where the RYCA bracket mounts is darn near nonexistent. With the RYCA version, does the belt-side bit mount inside or outside the frame, or is there some other voodoo that occurs?

Springman:

Just think of the possibilities!

If you need a new cam chain and guides...might was well install a performance cam!

Belt broke 2 years ago and I converted to chain instead.
The lash is at the front sprocket in the engine axle.
Found the lash before the conversion. About 45 degrees.
The belt showed some dry cracks but was tightened after regulation.
I can change the bumpers for the rear sprocket but the lash in the front remains.
The front sprocket is new and installed correctly.
Gearbox axle issue, not sprocket.

That would be about a 600 mile one way trip for me. I would love to do this but I probably cannot get away until around July. If you guys make that ride  without me I will be envious, but happy for ya'll. Thump on!!

Dave, now that you indicated what to look for, I almost wish I would not have asked. I suspect changing the chain and guides is not a half hour job.

Thanks for the tip Versy. I guess with a good brush the other cleaner should be sufficient.

DragBikeMike wrote on Yesterday at 15:11:23:


I think the bore to stroke ratio will be the main factor that limits power. More RPM=more power, and that long stroke places the limit at around 7000 RPM for acceptable engine life. You can spin it faster but you can start measuring time between top end rebuilds with a stopwatch then. Rings don't last long at those speeds, the heat anneals them and the ring seal goes away in no time. For the Savage, it will take boost or nitro to make the really big numbers unless you destroke it and increase the bore to keep the displacement similar.

springman wrote on Today at 09:39:23:

I wouldn't use brake cleaner except for the most stubborn areas, such as the area next to the spark plug that can bake on grease.  Otherwise the cheapo degreaser from wally world works fine.

dcaplinger2 wrote on Yesterday at 14:18:45:
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FIRST. If you airbox is filled with gas, then your crankcase probably is too.  DO NOT run the bike with a crankcase full of gas!  You need to resolve the flooding issue and change the oil before you run the bike. That's what JOG meant when he said it's not a good thing.

Next, the issue is either what Dave said or the float needle isn't seating and your bike is flooded.  The needle could be worn or it might be stuck.  Sometimes tapping the carb with a screwdriver handle will resolve the issue.  If that doesn't work, you'll have to remove the float and clean/replace the needle.