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Message started by Wright on 03/26/24 at 08:53:33

Title: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Wright on 03/26/24 at 08:53:33

2015 LS650;  installing trickle charger and sparked positive terminal with a screwdriver against the frame…one bright spark.   Now, no electrical power.  Both 20 amp fuses tested good.   Could it be the relay on the left side up under the tank.   I think it may be the starter relay.  If not, where do I look for what blew when I shorted the battery.  

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by verslagen1 on 03/26/24 at 09:14:11

I'd start with the battery itself.
pull it out and have it tested.

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Wright on 03/26/24 at 09:58:25

12.9v

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Surviving Philly on 03/26/24 at 10:57:57

Weird that the fuses are good -- are you sure about that? I would double check those. If they are in fact fine I would then check the decomp relay and the actual key ignition.

Are any of the lights on at all? If you put the ignition key to the on position the lights should kick on unless a fuse is blown, I don't think any of the relays would stop power to the lights regardless of being stuck in either on or off positions.

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Surviving Philly on 03/26/24 at 15:18:26

Hot from the battery goes directly to both fuses then to everything else. I apologize but you have to have a blown fuse or the battery is kaput, from my perspective with peace and love.

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Wright on 03/26/24 at 16:44:53

What I tried today is that both fuses look fine.   I replaced them anyway.   I’ve tried to follow the pos current up but get lost.  I have a Clymers in order.   The schematic will help.    
It’s still DEAD.   Good battery, both 20amp fuses good.   No lights no Nuttin.

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Wright on 03/27/24 at 08:22:40

If both my 20 amp fuses are good, what’s next?  What do I check at the decomp?  Why do some mention headlight?

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Wright on 03/29/24 at 06:11:24

I finally took my battery to AutoZone to be tested.  My multimeter said it had 12.8v.   It tested BAD.   I don’t get it…
Bought a new battery and charged it to 100% and stuck it in.   EVERTHING
WORKS!!
Someone said start at the battery.   I thought I had.  
Thanks you all.  

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Wright on 03/29/24 at 06:15:20

Hey, also… I have a small black plastic box glued to the rear fender that’s attached to the brown and b/w signal wires.   The box also has a tiny indicator light that lights up when I squeeze the brake…some kind of tie in for mor visibility when braking?

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Dave on 03/29/24 at 12:36:44


15302B252A36420 wrote:
Hey, also… I have a small black plastic box glued to the rear fender that’s attached to the brown and b/w signal wires.   The box also has a tiny indicator light that lights up when I squeeze the brake…some kind of tie in for mor visibility when braking?


Does your brake light "flash" a few times when you apply the brake?  They make devices that do that.....it may need to be braking hard for the flashing to occur.

https://www.customled.com/products/magic-strobes-brake-light-flasher?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzZmwBhD8ARIsAH4v1gWrhsSj4TTYyjDYq6APnrjDBKdAUvQZ722yCkYc2fnKZl_73cIVz18aAhP4EALw_wcB

https://www.amazon.com/Flasher-Strobe-Strobes-Controller-Motorcycles/dp/B09KGSK7DK/ref=asc_df_B09KGSK7DK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647304703169&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12403590393910930123&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014387&hvtargid=pla-1581624144653&mcid=6553516b31cd3b57906e290597731b7a&th=1

Title: Re: Zero Electrical Power
Post by Ruttly on 03/29/24 at 12:49:31

Some of the lithium batteries have a reset , overload/underload protection. My lithium has button on charge cable end-on the plug. Some have special connector too. Read your instructions for the battery , yeah the one you threw out.

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