SuzukiSavage.com /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1598775774 Message started by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:22:54

Title: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:22:54 This is the fifth in a series of reports outlining my big bore engine project.  Part 1 covered the cylinder.  Part 2 covered the cylinder head.  Part 3 covered the head cover.   Part 4 covered the crankcase.  If you haven’t read Parts 1, 2, 3 or 4 you can find them here. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1593567475 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1595224521/0 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1596951230 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1597910972 Part 5 covers Assembly.  All the major components are ready to be assembled.  The cylinder has been bored out.  The cylinder head has been ported to my Stage III specs.  Larger intake valves have been installed along with appropriate valve springs.  The head cover has been modified to improve oiling.  The crankcase has been disassembled, inspected and re-sealed.  It’s time to assemble the parts and install the new monster in my Savage. Let’s get started.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:24:12 Before installing the piston & cylinder, the piston rings need to have their gaps checked.  If the gaps are too small, the ring will bind in the cylinder when it heats up.  A gap that is too large may cause a bit of leakage, but a gap that is too small can destroy your engine.  Wiseco recommends gaps based on application.  For my application I chose “Street – Moderate Turbo/Nitrous”.  That seemed reasonable to me.  I could have selected “High – Performance Street/Strip” but I decided to be safe and give it that little extra gap.  For my selected application, the specified gap for the top ring is .0050” for inch of bore diameter.  With a 3.819” bore diameter that works out to .019” gap.  The specified gap for the second ring is .0055” per inch of bore diameter.  That works out to .021”. Use a feeler gage to check the gap.  The ring must be positioned square in the bore.  I made this tool from an ABS pipe fitting.  It positions the ring exactly ½” down the bore and ensures the ring is square (1/2” down the bore at all points around the circumference of the ring).  The ring must be square to get an accurate measurement.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:24:57 You insert the ring into the bore and then push it with the tool until the shoulder on the tool hits the top of the cylinder.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:25:49 Then use feeler gages to check the gap.  I started with the second ring.  It was a bit tight.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:26:57 So, I held the ring gently in a machinist’s vice and used abrasive paper wrapped around a ¼” tool bit to remove material from one side of the gap.  Take care to follow the existing butt such that when the ring is installed in the cylinder the butts are parallel.  I only had to remove a few thousandths of an inch to get this 2nd ring close to perfect.  Check all the edges of the butt and verify that there are no burrs.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:27:43 Note how the butts are parallel.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:28:33 Use the same process for the top ring.  When I was finished, the top ring gap was .020” and the 2nd ring gap was .022”.  The butts were parallel.   Note the letter “N” on the top ring.  When the ring is installed on the piston, that marking must face up.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:29:32 Can you see any markings on the 2nd ring?  It’s there.  Be careful, it’s very difficult to see.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:30:14 You have to get the ring at just the right angle and have just the right amount of light.  Like the top ring, the “N” must face up.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:31:18 While on the subject of markings, see this arrow on the top of the piston?  It must face forward when the piston is installed on the rod.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:31:57 The Wiseco kit uses a three-piece oil ring.  The wavy thing is called an expander, and the two rings are referred to as scrapers or rails.  Their gap should be a minimum of .010”.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:32:44 The Wiseco expander has this interesting wire running through it.  Never seen one like this before.  I suspect the wire is intended to keep you from overlapping the butts.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:33:34 You install the oil ring assembly first.  Start by gently opening the expander just enough to get it over the piston and into the lowest groove.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:34:17 Then install a scraper ring in the lower side of the expander, making sure that the butt of the scraper ring and the butt of the expander do not line up.  Try to keep the butts at least 30° apart.  I like to use a method where I sort of spiral the flexible scraper ring down around the piston.  Don’t overdo it, you don’t want to bend or deform the ring.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:35:08 Once the lower scraper ring is in place, make sure that it is seated under the expander and the ring & expander are free to move in the groove.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:35:47 Then install the upper scraper using the same technique.  Once again, position the butt of the scraper rings at least 30° away from the butt of the expander.  You also want the butt of the upper scraper ring about 180°away from the butt of the lower scraper.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:36:54 When you are all done with the oil ring assembly it should look like this.  It should be free to move around in the groove with no tendency to stick or bind.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:37:58 When you install the 2nd ring and the top ring, it’s always best to use a ring expander to prevent distorting the rings.  The expander tool has a stop that can be set so that you don’t expand the ring too far.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:39:43 Install the second ring, and then the top ring.  The marking “N” must face up.  Make sure the rings move freely with no tendency to bind.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:40:30 Install one wrist pin circlip in the piston.  Be careful not to distort the clip.  Wiseco uses wire clips, I assume they are made from spring steel.  I like to get them started in the groove and then use my fingernail to pop the free end into the bore.  Don’t get too aggressive with these clips.  You don’t want to deform the clip and end up with it flying out at 6500 rpm.  Here you see the clip started in the groove with the free end just peeking out.  All it takes from here is a little help from your thumbnail to pop the clip right into the bore & groove.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:41:06 One little shove with your thumbnail and Shazaam!  Mission accomplished.  Make sure it’s in the groove all the way around.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:41:59 Apply a generous amount of assembly lubricant to the wrist pin and the bores in the rod and piston.  Place the piston onto the rod and slip the wrist pin through the rod & piston.  The arrow on the top of the piston must face forward.  Pack the crankcase opening with clean rags and install the other circlip.  The clean rags are there to prevent the clip from falling into the crankcase if it gets away from you.  Things happen. Place a proper piston support between the crankcase and the piston.  The piston must be properly supported in order to install the cylinder over the piston & rings.  Sorry, this is a picture of a stock piston, but you get the idea.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:43:08 I used a copper base gasket with a thin coat of Permatex Optimum Grey sealant.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:44:07 I hate to beat a dead horse, but this simple applicator works great, and I absolutely love this readily available Permatex product.  It comes in Black or Grey, stays wet for a long time to make assembly a breeze, and stands up well to the rigors of an air-cooled engine.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:44:39 First, I apply the sealant to the top side of the gasket, lay it in place on the bottom of the cylinder, clamp it, and let it sit overnight so the sealant can cure.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:45:09 You can see from this photo that the sealant squeeze out into the oil feed is miniscule.  When it’s time to plant the cylinder onto the crankcase, I apply another coat of sealant to the underside of the gasket rather than the top of the case.  That way, if any little bits of crud fall during the install, they won’t get stuck in wet sealant and I can brush the crud away just before I bring the cylinder all the way down.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:46:45 There is a radiused relief in the front of the cylinder.  I assume it’s for the balancer weight or the con rod, never really checked.  You don’t want any of the ring gaps lined up with that relief.  During cylinder installation, the ring could snag and break.  You also don’t want any ring gaps lined up with the opening in your ring compressor.  This photo shows exactly what not to do.  The ring compressor opening should be positioned at the rear of the cylinder, and no gaps should line up with the opening in the ring compressor.  This is especially important on a 97mm build because there’s hardly any chamfer on the bottom of the cylinder due to the extra thin sleeve.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:48:12 Stagger the ring gaps as described in the Wiseco instructions, while taking into consideration what I pointed out about the cylinder relief.  Make sure the two alignment dowels are installed in the crankcase.  Lubricate the cylinder, piston, and rings with a generous amount of clean engine oil.  Cinch up your rings in the ring compressor (opening toward the rear).  Apply a thin uniform coat of sealant to the underside of the gasket.  Double check that everything is ready, then install the cylinder over the piston & rings.  Remove the ring compressor and piston support, then bring home the jug.   You will notice that I have left the dowel out in this demonstration photo.  Can’t even follow my own directions.  Don’t make this mistake.  Make sure both dowels are in place before you start to install the cylinder.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:49:36 The tricky part is out of the way.  Getting the cylinder over the rings is, IMO, the hardest part.  Now it’s time for the head. Copper Gaskets Unlimited (CGU) recommends two sealants for their head gaskets, Permatex Ultra Grey 3294 or Copper Coat.  I decided to use Copper Coat because it’s a spray on sealant and the info I found said it is specifically intended for head gaskets.   I figured it would provide a more uniform layer of sealant and the suspended copper particles in the sealant would transfer heat better.  See in the picture how it actually shows a cylinder head and head gasket on the can????? Note:  The Copper Coat was a mistake.  Don’t use that stuff.  More on the sealants in the Test & Tune report.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:50:20 I sprayed a nice even coat on the head gasket.  You can’t even tell the sealant is on there since it’s the same color as the gasket.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:52:41 Install the two dowels and the forward chain guide.  Carefully lay the head gasket in place.  Then install the cylinder head.   It’s at this point in my story that I must plead stupidity.  I got on such a roll that I forgot to take pictures.  I’ve searched all my photos and I just don’t have any pictures of the head installation.  But it’s pretty straight forward. I oil the threads on the cylinder studs with clean engine oil and I apply Loctite 592 Teflon Thread Sealant to the tops and bottoms of each copper washer for the head nuts.  Then I torque it to spec in four increments.  I have found that silicone sealant screws up the torque and you don’t develop adequate stress in the studs.  The Teflon sealant works great, and it doesn’t leak.  This old post gives you some valuable info on cylinder stud stress. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1576269113/12#12 This is the sealant I like for the cylinder head washers.  If you use a different sealant you may not develop sufficient stress in the studs.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:53:37 Some of you may have noticed a small hole in the head casting down in the sparkplug well.  That hole is the result of drilling and tapping one of the head cover bolt holes during the manufacturing process.  I don’t particularly care for that hole since I want to keep the head cover sealant to a minimum.  The bolt hole in question is adjacent to the left-hand cam bearing, an area prone to fouling with sealant.  This is the hole I’m talking about.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:54:18 I fill up that hole with silicone sealant to provide additional assurance that I don’t end up with a leaker.  There’s release agent on the bolt so I don’t have any trouble removing it once the sealant sets up.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 01:56:16 Now that the head is installed and properly torqued, it’s time to install the cam.  Slip the rear chain guide into place and drop the chain down through the chain cavity.   Then place the cam sprocket into the cavity outboard of the chain.  I slip a rod through the chain and sprocket to hold it all in place.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:05:31 The cam goes in next.  Apply a light coat of assembly lube to the cam bearing journals and to the cam bearings in the head.  Don’t get lube on the sealing surfaces.  Set the timing mark on the alternator rotor at TDC.  It must line up with the mark on the alternator cover.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:06:33 Then slip the cam through the chain and sprocket and install one bolt to secure the sprocket temporarily.  Work the chain around the sprocket as necessary to get the timing marks on the cam lined up with the head surface.  It’s a little tricky.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:07:13 Sometimes you have to index the drive gear a little to achieve correct cam timing.  With a stock cam, the factory mark on the drive sprocket is generally lined up with the mark on the crankshaft.  But for this DR cam, I ended up retarding the drive sprocket one-spline in order to achieve correct timing mark alignment on the cam.  The important thing here is you want the marks on the cam aligned correctly when the TDC mark on the alternator rotor is aligned with it's mark on the alternator cover.  This shows the drive sprocket retarded one-spline.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:07:59 A good double check is to lay a six-inch scale on the head surface.  It should completely cover the cam timing marks when the cam is timed straight up (not retarded and not advanced).

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:09:58 The cam timing is perfect.  To make sure it doesn’t jump time, install the cam chain tensioner.  Then install the lock plate and the other cam sprocket bolt.  I set mine with red Loctite also.   Don’t forget this doodad.  Place it on top of the cam journal and roll it into the groove.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:10:31 Slather up the cam lobes with cam break-in lube.  Web provides this stuff with the cam.  It looks like jelly.  Keep it away from the kids.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:11:05 Don’t forget the infamous head plug or the plug on the right side of the cam.  I use the stock head plug with a strongback inserted to limit any upward movement of the plug.  I actually like the design of the stock plug, but I hate the fact that it can migrate upward.  The strongback limits movement to about .001” to .002”.  Haven’t had a leaker yet.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:11:52 Take a quick look around to make sure you haven’t left anything behind and to verify that the lock tabs are bent over the cam sprocket bolts.  Install the fancy o-ring in the head cover oil feed (I usually cement mine with small dabs of sealant a day before installation). Apply a nice coat of sealant to the head cover.  Note how I keep the sealant away from the left-hand cam bearing, and that there is no sealant around the right-hand cam bearing.  A thin, uniform coat of sealant is the way to go.  Apply a thin film of assembly lube on the surfaces of the cam bearings (keep the lube off the sealing surfaces & sealant), then carefully place the head cover onto the head and over the dowels.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:12:59 Install all the bolts in the head cover.  Make sure that the special sealing washers are where they belong and that all the bolts are installed in their correct location.  There’s a great illustration in the manual, use it. It’s time for a humiliating confession.  I made a classic rookie mistake.  That old jalopy cylinder, the one I bored out in Part 1, the one that was all beat up with broken fins and 20 years of slop baked on; I didn’t inspect the three threaded holes in that cylinder.  As soon as I laid the wrench on this sorry bolt, I knew I was screwed.  The bolt head hadn’t even made metal-to-metal contact and I could tell that hole wasn’t right.  As soon as I started to tighten this thing, I knew the threads were gone.  Why did I not check those holes?????

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:13:50 There was no way I was pullin that head back off.  What a mess.  I looked it over and decided all was not lost.  The bolt was a good candidate for salvage.  It’s located on the right front side of the head.  It’s not a pressurized fastener.  I decided to drill through and install a ¼-20 grade-8 bolt with a nut.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:14:46 It worked good.  I used a ¼-20 grade-8 bolt x 6” long.  Had to cut a few threads off.  It ended up 5-13/16” long.   This bolt, and the one just forward of it, can be repaired using this technique.  The one in the right-rear location can’t be repaired this way unless you remove the head.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:15:53 I want to discuss something that I did before I assembled the engine.  Anytime you mess around with high lift cams and high compression pistons, you really should check valve-to-piston clearance.  To check the valve-to-piston clearance, you have to temporarily assemble the engine with light valve springs (checking springs).  You place modeling clay on top of the piston and see how much the valves squash the clay when you turn the engine through several rotations.  I failed to discuss that in Part 2 of these reports. With the Wiseco piston it’s pretty hard to ram a valve into a piston unless you have the cam waaaaay out-of-time.  There’s plenty of room between the valves and piston. You can see from this picture that there’s a lot of room between the exhaust valves and the piston.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:16:33 On the intakes, there’s a lot of room vertically, and it’s not close on the radius of the valve.  I have to pay attention to the radial clearance because I installed larger diameter valves.  The edge of the valve has to run well away from the relief in the piston.  It’s OK, but if I ever get around to those 35mm valves and the 340b cam, I will be looking at this clearance again.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:18:07 That’s as far as it’s goin before I install it in the frame.  The cylinder head is on.  I am at a point in my life where these old bones can’t handle the complete engine.  Just too darned heavy.  So, to save what’s left of my body, I remove and install the engine with the following items left off: Clutch, Clutch Cover, Starter, Alternator Rotor, Starter Drive Gear, Starter Override, Drive Pulley, Alternator Cover & Stator. This is what the engine looks like.  It’s funky but I’m not entering a beauty contest.  It’s all about propulsion.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:18:42 The left side looked like this.  Another nice aspect of leaving all the extra parts off is it leaves a whole lot of options for grabbin hold of the beast.  This thing is way easier to manhandle like this.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:19:35 To prepare for the swap, I remove all the same stuff from the engine currently in the bike.  I also remove the flywheel and starter (not shown in picture).

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:20:24 I wanted to discuss alternator rotor removal.  My cheap aftermarket rotor puller has a jack bolt with right-hand threads.  When you start tightening down on the jack bolt, it digs into the rotor bolt and tends to turn the rotor bolt too.  You’re trying to build-up force to pop the rotor off the taper, but the bolt you are bearing against keeps running away.  I made a sleeve to install between the end of the crankshaft and the rotor bolt.  That way, the rotor bolt hits the sleeve and can’t run away.  I thought that was pretty smart.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:21:14 See how the sleeve fits.  The rotor bolt can’t turn.  All the force will go into popping the rotor off.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:22:03 I found that a whole lot of the force went in to digging into the head of the bolt.  The rotor came off, but it still required a lot of turning force on the jack bolt.  This thing could use some sort of bearing.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:22:52 I machined the lip off the rotor bolt.  I’m hopin that makes things easier the next time around.  I’ll apply a generous dab of anti-seize to the end of the jack bolt before I start jacking.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:23:29 When you use one of these rotor pullers, I suggest you thread it on to the rotor all the way, then back it off ¼ turn.  Hold it with a big crescent wrench when you tighten the jack bolt.  If you don’t back it off and hold it with the crescent wrench, it gets stuck on the rotor and can be a real pain in the keester.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:25:44 I already covered flywheel removal in Part 4.  I like doing that with the engine in the frame.  It’s a lot easier since you don’t have to hang onto the engine.  Once the engine is all stripped down, its out with the old, in with the new.  The old 94mm is on the deck, the 97mm Big Bore is in the bike.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:26:49 The engine install is straight forward.  I’m only gonna touch on the stuff unique to this project. I’ve already touched on this in Part 3.  The 3-inch flywheel has no threaded holes to hold on to.  I made a special clamp tool.  Here you can see how the clamp tool nests between the two footpeg mounts on the frame.  It easily holds the 115 ft-lbs torque applied to the flywheel nut.  This is one of the reasons I like loading the engine into the frame without all the stuff in the cases.  These nuts are much easier to tighten when the engine is in the frame.  You can focus all your energy on operating the tools rather than worrying about the engine rolling around on a work bench.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:27:36 I’ve been running an oil temperature gage and a cylinder head temperature (CHT) gage.  I have roughly 500 miles worth of data from these instruments to use as a measure for the Big Bore’s performance. The oil temp gage has a pickup that I have installed in the discharge passage for the oil pump.  It measures oil temp directly out of the pump.  The pickup goes here (it's the red thing).

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:28:19 The CHT sender is installed on the 8mm cylinder head stud just below the exhaust port.  I suspect that many would not consider this location a true measure of CHT.  It is a good place to keep an eye on.  I think it most certainly is one of the hottest areas on the engine since the stud ties directly into the exhaust port.  I can guarantee this much, it gets hotter than the pig in the imu.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by DragBikeMike on 08/30/20 at 02:29:26 So that’s about it.  The rest of the stuff is routine R&R.  The chain tensioner extension was 9.5mm.  I left the ignition timing retarded 2° like it was on the tight quench engine and the 94mm Wiseco engine.  The valves were adjusted to .004” all around.  I left the 38VM jetting as-is except for the main jet.  To be safe, I increased the main from a 210 to a 220.  Crankcase was filled with 20W-50 Castrol V-Twin dino oil (API SG).  Ready for break-in. It’s the moment of truth.  Will this Frankenstein engine run good or die instantly?  It has a hobby lathe bore job, Honda valves, Subaru valve springs, factory recall spring retainers, a dirt bike cam & piston, a miniaturized flywheel, an intake port stuffed with epoxy, an exhaust port from hell, a header the size of a smoke stack, and a muffler that looks like a plumber’s apprentice practical exam.  This will be fun. I hope you found this report informative.  As always, I welcome your questions and comments.  Knowledge is power. Best regards, Mike

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by ohiomoto on 08/30/20 at 05:45:53 Nice work as always.

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by Armen on 08/30/20 at 05:52:28 Excellent! Thanks so much!!

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/30/20 at 13:04:37 Best of luck, man,, Hope it haulsass for years and years..

Title: Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly Post by Dave on 08/30/20 at 13:32:58 I was about to suggest that you machine a clear plug for the cam hole that fits between the head and head cap - so you could see if any oil comes out when it is running at 7,000 rpm and 80 mph! Never mind..........

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