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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> front brake rotor /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1589919908 Message started by Tocsik on 05/19/20 at 13:25:08 |
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Title: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/19/20 at 13:25:08 Changed the front brake pads today and I really let them get too worn. Had a devil of a time getting the pin to go through the hole in the inner brake pad when putting the new ones on. Anyone have tips on that for future? And what's the minimum thickness on the rotor before it should be replaced? I sanded it a bit with 500 grit while the rotor was pulled away but it still doesn't feel great and I know that can eat pads. Measures about 0.144 - 0.147 inches (3.66 - 3.73 mm). Lastly, where's a good place to source a replacement rotor? I see 'em on fleabay for about 170. Looks like EBC part # MD3017LS? Asking rather than researching since I had to go to work and we got a clinic full of babies today so my time is limited. Thanks team. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by norm92de on 05/19/20 at 13:49:47 Suzuki says that the minimum thickness of the disc is 4MM. :'( |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/20/20 at 08:31:45 How much roughness would you guys tolerate in your front rotor? It's like, totally groovy, man. Not rough, but kinda like a vinyl album, but deeper. Rode it to work on back roads this morning to be gentle on the new pads and it fells much better, but concerned about the grooves and overall thinness of the rotor. Had time to do a little reading and saw posts from a few years back where several high profile members here said to keep going with it unless it feels warped. I don't feel any pulsing. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by norm92de on 05/20/20 at 12:09:20 I measured mine and it is 4MM on the dot. Seems to work as it should, put on new pads not too long ago. Guess I'll let it go for now. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by DragBikeMike on 05/20/20 at 12:40:38 I think there are several reasons for the minimum thickness specification (4.0 mm). The obvious reason is you don't want the rotor to get so thin that it breaks. Another reason you don't want it under 4.0 mm is resonance. The thinner it gets the more it resonates. It already tends to squeak & squeal a bit, that will only get worse as it gets thinner. You also should be concerned about caliper extension. As the rotor thins the piston in the caliper has to extend farther to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. Combined with pad wear, the piston extension may start to exceed reasonable limits. Excessive extension could result in cocking and binding. You can minimize the extension by changing pads well before they reach their wear limit. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/20/20 at 12:42:37 08333F2F35375C0 wrote:
If your rotor has grooves, it's time for replacement because: 1. It will corrode inside the grooves, 2. You have less surface area for the pads to bite into, which means longer stopping 3. You will wear out the pads faster 4. Eventually the pads will "grab" onto the rotor and will not let go. This will produce heat that will cause the caliper to fail. When that happens you will not have a front brake. Why not just do the job correct and replace the rotor. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/20/20 at 14:15:51 Thanks for the replies. I'm checking with Versy to see if he still has any rotors from the Ryca takeoffs he mentioned in the Marketplace. I'm seeing an EBC rotor listed as a fitment for our bike (https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/control-brakes/brake-rotors/ebc-standard-brake-rotor/p/16288?m=147543). Anyone using that? |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by philthymike on 05/20/20 at 17:03:02 I don't have OEM front brake anymore but until recently I had heavily grooved and worn rotors and a strong tendency to lock up the front wheel. I got new rotors and pads and it's a night and day difference. I can still lock the front wheel if I try really hard. I actually practiced two wheel skids at 45 mph the other day just to see. Bike stays mostly straight! Anyway now there's a whole wide range of braking power not just some braking and then lockup. It's obvious to me now how bad the old rotors were. Chuck that groovy thing. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by verslagen1 on 05/20/20 at 17:08:48 this is the one I'd get... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Suzuki-LS650-Savage-S193-1-front-brake-rotor-disc-single/293139651394?hash=item44407c1b42:g:6RQAAOSwmohdEkA- |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Ruttly on 05/20/20 at 22:52:17 I bought that EBC rotor and it didn't fit had to send it back. It must have weighed 4 times what the stock rotor did. Get a used one on fleabay. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/21/20 at 03:17:07 262C28222920242D737571410 wrote:
If your rotor has grooves, it's time for replacement because: 1. It will corrode inside the grooves, 2. You have less surface area for the pads to bite into, which means longer stopping Actually, the opposite is true 3. You will wear out the pads faster Initially, yes, but the pads will polish the rough stuff down pretty quick, 4. Eventually the pads will "grab" onto the rotor and will not let go. This will produce heat that will cause the caliper to fail. When that happens you will not have a front brake. Maybe on some race applications,, but not even a remote possibility on this bike Why not just do the job correct and replace the rotor.[/quote] IDK ,, everything has wear limits, safety requirements,, and the front brake is The single most safety feature.. A series of hard braking moments and a dash through a wet spot in the street, quenching that rotor,, that is the recipe for a warp.. at what wear point is it likely to crack? I have no idea.. There's some really smart guys here, maybe someone knows enough about metals to Splain us something.. The grooves from letting it go too long are concentric, once the pads are cut to fit in the grooves, you have more braking surface area. The best brakes on anything I had was 78 Gran Prix , I let the pads cut deep, like , everyone said replace them, I bought cheap pads, and they polished the rotors,, then put good ones on.. Didn't take too long for the pads to adopt the contours,, and, boy , that thing stopped,, the Michelins didn't hurt. But, that's a car, cast iron, not a bike,, and you're well below the wear limit it seems.. You probably should be shopping around, I would, but I would not park my bike over it. You have a disk That's a pattern No idea what material to use But I wonder what having a water jet cutter .. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/21/20 at 05:15:22 Tocsik, EBC makes great brake components. I would recommend them. If you want the ultimate in braking, get Shawn's Big Brake Kit. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by norm92de on 05/21/20 at 09:12:13 I am embarrassed to admit that I quoted my disc thickness incorrectly. My disc is just about factory thickness and has very little grooving. I can't explain what I thought I measured? A senior moment I suppose. :o |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by verslagen1 on 05/21/20 at 09:15:00 pesky verniers, always hard to read. ;) |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/21/20 at 09:37:57 57564B54000B5D5C390 wrote:
Hey, what is the factory thickness? Will help me if I buy used. Thanks. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by verslagen1 on 05/21/20 at 10:32:29 0E35392933315A0 wrote:
4.5±0.2mm .18±0.01" |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/21/20 at 10:35:54 160512130C0107050E51600 wrote:
Thanks Versy. That one shows a thickness of 4.56 mm. I know it's better than mine, but still close to the 4mm minimum. They really are proud of the new ones, eh? But front brakes are important. The big brake kit would be good, but I can't justify the $400 these days. Oh, just saw the factory specs posted. Man, how can 4mm be the minimum, then!? |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by norm92de on 05/21/20 at 11:22:55 They are indeed proud of a new OEM disc. Ouch. :'( |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/21/20 at 18:35:15 Surely the right metal can't be so expensive that a piece and the cost of a water jet cutter would be so expensive |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Ruttly on 05/21/20 at 20:20:29 Tocsik , check your messages |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Dave on 05/22/20 at 03:01:06 3B242225383F0E3E0E36242863510 wrote:
Probably is when you only sell 1 or 2 of them a year! If you had a GSXR - all kinds of aftermarket discs are available.....but the Savage is not all that popular and not all that prone to wearing out discs if you replace the pads before they start scraping metal. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/22/20 at 10:51:46 321514140C19600 wrote:
Done. Messaged you back. Thanks. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/28/20 at 09:25:40 OK, got the new/used front rotor mounted but had to run out and get the correct red threadlocker (only had high temp and it was pretty old). Man, that original red threadlocker was a bear to fight against removing the bolts! Even after hitting them with PB Blaster a couple hours earlier. I used a brass wire brush followed by steel wool to clean the rotor bolts and they came out looking good. I don't have a thread chaser set for cleaning the threaded holes but at least used full strength degreaser on a rag wrapped around an allen wrench to clean out some of it. Probably could've/should've used carb cleaner after doing some reading this morning. 1. You think it's ok if I didn't maybe get those hole threads completely clean and also didn't use activator before the threadlocker? 2. Anyone else find when reinstalling the rotor on the Savage the bolts feel like they just STOP rather than feeling like they're tightening/torqueing? Thanks everyone for the words of advice and thanks Ruttly for the extra help! |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/28/20 at 09:33:52 The proper way to break the bond of thread lock is heat, followed by torque/force. Ideally, the bolts should not be reused, especially if they are showing any signs of corrosion. Make sure that the threads in the hub are completely dry and free of any solvents prior to installing the bolts. Be use to use a wet torque value (85-90% of the dry value) when installing the bolts. |
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Title: Re: front brake rotor Post by Tocsik on 05/28/20 at 10:22:05 Thanks Gary. I agree that's what's ideal. Seems to be a lot debate on reusing rotor bolts all over the place. And I know your front brake isn't a place to take chances! Curious about how the bolts felt when tightening. They go into through-holes but still had a "bottoming out" feel rather than a gradual tightening. I left the bike at home today for the threadlocker to cure and will probably put a wrench on one or two bolts and see if it loosens easily. Not too much pressure though so as not to break the bond. And yeah, I read about heat at 500o to loosen red threadlocker after I had the bolts out :-?. Lesson learned. Your posts definitely speak to your wrenching experience and it's appreciated. |
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