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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> New Member, Used Ryca /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1552158138 Message started by LiftdT4R on 03/09/19 at 11:02:18 |
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Title: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/09/19 at 11:02:18 Hey guys, I just picked up a Ryca CS-1 last week. I've had bikes and have worked on bikes for the last 20 years but I doubt I would have ever looked at a Zook 650 until I started browsing this forum a week ago. After I get all of the issues sorted on my Ryca I'll be looking for a stock S40 to turn into a bobber. Anyway I really don't have any questions because I found mostly everything I was looking for in the search while I was waiting for my membership to be approved. The Ryca build was completed last year on a 1998 Savage by a previous owner in NC. The build only has 45 miles on it. The miles on the original bike are unknown unfortunately although everything looks to be clean and in good shape. I know I need to check to see if the cam chain tensioner mod has been done. I have a Raptor petcock on order. I also found out my crank breather is just open to atmosphere so I'll be heading to Auto Zone this week to pick up a filter. The bike seems to be running very rich because it stumbles at 1/4 throttle and smells it so I picked up a jet kit from Lancer and I'll see what's going on inside the carb. The throttle was a little sticky so I pulled that part last night, cleaned her all up and she's perfect now. The rear brake light wasn't operating so that's adjusted and fixed up now too. I want to do a compression check soon before I title and ride. I saw 140 to 160 psi is normal for these bikes. Any other tips are greatly appreciated! I live in the middle of the Pine Barrens so we ride mostly offroad. I've had a few road bikes before and even though I haven't done too much road riding in the last 5 years I can't wait to get back into it. Just have to find some folks to ride with. If you're in S NJ gimme a shout. I'll buy first round! I was big into Banshees and Blasters as a kid and these Savages remind me so much of them because they look simple mechanically compared to new bikes and have a bunch of bang for the buck power wise. They also have a heck of a long production run too with plentiful parts. Sorry for the novel. I'll post some pics soon because my post count wasn't high enough. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/09/19 at 11:02:31 Here's a pic from the prior owner: http://https://i.imgur.com/23iGTw7.jpg Here she is heading back to NJ: http://https://i.imgur.com/oC8zQJU.jpg And here she is with the rest of my current bike stable. The side panels are off because I've been working on her. http://https://i.imgur.com/vOxc3Oj.jpg |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 03/12/19 at 06:47:31 Cool bike. I've found that my bike runs better closer to the stock jetting which is a little leaner than what most people on here run. I also think that sticky sliders trick many into thinking they need to rejet their bike. Good job cleaning that up first. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/12/19 at 07:08:08 Good looking bike. Glad to see another NJ member. I'm in the NW corner of the state. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/12/19 at 18:11:42 2C2B2A2C2E2C372C430 wrote:
Awesome, from what I was reading here it sounds like a 52.2 pilot and 152.5 main is what most guys have luck with. I've read all of the Savage carb tuning guides too and my idle air mixture plug was already pulled when I got the bike. What are ya running? Also, I'm still learning the lingo on these bikes. What do you mean by sticky sliders? I've been seeing a lot of the white spacer mod but no definitive answer on whether to do it or not and how many spacers to run. I guess this is the same as changing the clip position on carbs with a slide but on all the bikes I've had I've always left the clip at the stock position. I understand how it changes the performance of the carb just never had the need to do it. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/12/19 at 18:19:43 444E4A404B42464F111713230 wrote:
Thanks! Got any info on yours? Sounds very cool! I want to ride my bike the way it sits but like anything else I have a feeling I'll be digging into the motor after the basic stuff is done. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 03/13/19 at 05:46:49 7F5A554757670761330 wrote:
The diaphragm assembly is a vacuum operated throttle slide. If the slide gets worn, it gets sticky and sometimes causes flat spots in throttle response. I think a lot of people confuse this condition with a jetting issue. I think I'm running a 47.5/147.5. The PO had a 55/155 setup in it when I got it and it was a turd and backfired on deceleration a lot. My bike runs better and pretty much never backfires. I took it all the way to stock and that was a tad too lean on sub 45* mornings. My current setup works well down to mid-30's and still runs decently in the mid-80's. My bike is stock with a dyna muffler. I wouldn't do the white spacer mod until you get the top and bottom end running strong. I did a 1/2 spacer and a 3/4 spacer. I ended up with the 3/4 spacer but probably could have just run it stock by the time I settled in on my main jet. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/13/19 at 09:03:14 0E2B243626167610420 wrote:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1426265605/0 |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Chicagobob on 03/13/19 at 09:09:09 Rycas are great! Any build that cuts 60-70 lbs to free up that great OHC thumper has got to lead to a lot of fun. I like mine, and used a Shorai battery to simplify and lighten it even more, |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/13/19 at 10:08:17 7B71757F747D79702E282C1C0 wrote:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1426265605/0[/quote] WOW! That is one awesome build! I'll be reading through that thread at work for the next few days. I immediately noticed what a PITA the side covers were to remove so I'll be using that wing nut trick for sure. Do you know what jetting you're running? Edit: Also saw that QQ plate in the background of your pics. What kinda old car/truck ya got? I used to be big into International Scouts and I have a bunch of QQ plates hanging in my garage too but sadly they're all gone now. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/13/19 at 14:47:18 I think I'm running a 52 and 155 with the #4 washer shims to make the mid-throttle a bit richer. I haven't messed with it n years because it was correct on the first shot. The only time I notice a lean surge is when the engine is cold - and that's exactly how you want it. The QQ's are for a '72 240Z. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by playhard67 on 03/13/19 at 18:54:19 Beautiful bike Gary, and gorgeous 240Z. Always loved those cars. Drove a 240Z when I was 14 down to the red light district in DC........ Fun Times. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/14/19 at 06:22:31 Awesome Z! I've been wanting to pickup another project car for a while now but man if bikes are time sink cars are even moreso. Maybe when I retire! :-) Thanks for the jetting advice. The last carb'd bike I had was a YZ250 and on the 2 smokers even a small jetting change makes a huge difference. I see such a huge variation of jetting for what look like similar motor setups so I'm guessing maybe these bikes aren't all that picky. My bike has a terrible stumble when I crack the throttle and almost no low end so I'm thinking I'm way rich on the pilot. No clue what's in there now and I haven't touched the idle air screw so I know I'm due to figure out what all I got. Did you change out for the Raptor petcock too? I heard that because more air is flowing through the intake that the stock vacuum petcock won't work correctly and I noticed that's still on my bike. I ordered one and I'm thinking I should install it and run the bike before making any jetting changes. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/14/19 at 06:57:57 A stumble off idle is an indication of LEAN jetting. The Savage responds well to a richer pilot and needle circuit. If you are planning an exhaust and/or intake modification, do it when changing the jets. The Raptor mod has ZERO effect on jetting. Old cars eat money...and time. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 03/14/19 at 07:30:11 Nice 240 there Gary! |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Dave on 03/14/19 at 08:58:11 I have ridden several stock Savage bikes in this area (500' - 800' elevation), and some of them run OK....while a few have a surging just off idle at low throttle openings. The bikes seem to run fine at full throttle - but when you try to ride them at a normal traffic speeds...the bikes surge when you just barely open the throttle. This condition is usually corrected by replacing the #47.5 pilot jet with a #50, and replacing the white spacer on the slide needle with 3 washers (#4 machine screw). I also replace the main jet with a #150......this recommendations will likely be a bit rich at higher elevations where the stock jetting might work just fine. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/14/19 at 09:59:35 Interesting that it may be lean. I've got to open it up and find out what's there. Dave, when you say surging, what do you mean by that? I'm thinking like when a 2 stroke hits the power band. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/14/19 at 12:35:13 Surging feels like the throttle is being rocked back-n-forth. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Dave on 03/14/19 at 13:02:18 When you hold the throttle steady - the engine alternates between a slight acceleration and a slight deceleration........kind of like a cylinder is dropping in and out on a 4 cylinder bike. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LANCER on 03/14/19 at 14:37:04 4842464C474E4A431D1B1F2F0 wrote:
That is a very nice looking 240Z. I never owned or even driven one but do remember racing a few in Ft Worth on weekends when we had leave from Ft Wolters. They were quick and it was always a close race. No one ever got in trouble. [ch128527] [ch128641][ch128526] |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by norm92de on 03/14/19 at 21:03:42 If i might add my two cents worth. I add half an ounce of engine oil to my gas on every fill up. I think/hope it helps the inside of the gas tank especially with the darn ethanol. And lubricates the slide as well as the throttle shaft. My bike has only 9k on it but it runs very well, and I have never had a carb issue. I have never seen a two stroke carb that was in poor condition, meaning petroil lubricated of course. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/15/19 at 06:58:26 Thanks, good to know! The last carb'd 4 stroker I had was a 1998 Kawi ATV that I sold in 2004 so it's been a while. All my new 4 strokers are fuel injected and I've even had problems with those with the ethanol. I do run Startron Enzyme treatment and it seems to work pretty well. I was reading on older threads that if the vacuum seal on the petcock goes it siphons fuel into the carb causing a rich condition which is why I'm planning on replacing it with a Raptor petcock before I do my jetting. Also, I saw in some old threads that the Ryca tanks are prone to corrosion from ethanol and because they are modified from the stocker. Is there any truth to this? Is the inside coated? If not should I coat it while I have it apart? There's a drag strip by my house that sells non-ethanol gas but it's a PITA to get and at $7 a gallon I like Speedway's priced much better. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 03/15/19 at 07:14:59 I think coating a modified or old tank is probably a good idea. An ounce of prevention... |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Dave on 03/15/19 at 07:27:14 The stock tanks don't rust as long as you run good fuel through them on a regular basis - but if you let gas sit and go stale all kinds of bad things can happen. The RYCA tanks have been cut and welded, and that can create problems that didn't exist in the factor tank. I would line them....I prefer the Caswel Epoxy - but it is really important that you comply with their temperature guidelines and don't try to coat it when it is too cold. The POR15 is less temperature sensitive and is a good product....don't waste your time on the Kreem stuff. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 03/15/19 at 09:03:07 I've heard good things about Red-Kote. I got the tank on my bike off of eBay and it was done with Kreem. It working out great so far. I have no idea how long it's been in there, but there is no rust or leaks. EDIT: I should add that I one nice thing about Kreem is that it is easy to recoat with it as long as the tank is in good condition. I'll probably keep using it on my tank since it's already there and in good condition. It can also be removed if needed. Some sealers are a little more "permanent" or difficult to work with if it gets compromised, so do your research first. I've done a little bit on the subject and think that Kreem might be a little easier to maintain long term. I'm still not sure if it would be my pick on a new tank but finding out that it's pretty easy to refresh every so often might prove to be an advantage over the long haul. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/17/19 at 09:49:44 I pulled my plug last night to do a compression test and noticed it is a DR8ES-L which doesn't seem like the correct plug for this bike. I searched and found: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1107534689 It looks like the correct plug is a DPR8EA-9 or any other one in the above thread. Just wanted to double check with you guys but I don't see any reason why someone would run the DR8ES-L. I'm not certain what the difference is between the two but it would be nice to know to diagnose my bike's issues. As far as I can tell I have a resistor plug whereas the correct one is a projected center insulator resistor plug. I'm not sure the rest of the coding difference even after consulting NGK's chart. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/21/19 at 16:03:05 Anyone on the plug Q? EDIT: I did not hold the throttle wide open today when doing my compression test and got a reading of 110psi. I held it wide open just now and got a reading of 140psi. Throttle position never seemed to matter on 2 strokers when compression testing. With 140psi compression is it worth it to do the leakdown test too or should I be ok? |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/22/19 at 03:52:17 I’m a big fan of running the correct spark plug. At 140 psi you have good compression. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/22/19 at 07:13:38 Thanks again!! I am too, that's why I was wondering why someone may have put this different plug in the bike. That was cold too, so I imagine warm it will be a bit better. From what I've been reading there shouldn't be a need to do a leak test, right? |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/22/19 at 19:20:43 Do you suspect that you have a leak? Even a good engine will allow about 10% loss during a differential compression test. Even then it's hard to determine where the 10% is going. When a piston, rings or valve has gone, it's quite easy to tell where the leak is. At 140 psi for a basic compression test I don't expect that a differential test will tell you much. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by batman on 03/22/19 at 19:39:51 "I add half an ounce of engine oil to my gas on every fill up. I think/hope it helps the inside of the gas tank especially with the darn ethanol. And lubricates the slide as well as the throttle shaft. My bike has only 9k on it but it runs very well, and I have never had a carb issue." Norm , Adding oil to your gas isn't a great idea, if your adding it every time you fill up (and not running the tank bone dry each time) the concentration of oil will build up with every fill (as will ANY other additive). Oil entering the cylinder will likely burn, and leave carbon deposits on the sparkplug(foul it) and combustion chamber walls and piston dome that could cause detonation . Not to mention soot in your exhaust system. While the plug could be cleaned and reused ,detonation is something to be avoided. I strongly doubt that the oil lubes your slide or throttle shaft, the fuel enters under the slide at the main jet(if a finger print will make your slide hang up, I'd hate to think what motor oil would do) ,and the pilot jet and choke enter down stream from the slide. The throttle shaft would not be lubed either as the amount of fuel being greater, would simply wash it into the cylinder. If the oil you added to the gas tank doesn't mix fully with the gas it will migrate to the bottom ,and could cause some problems if you need to use your reserve petcock setting. In all I would discontinue it's use. You'd be better off just running pure gas. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Dave on 03/23/19 at 05:00:44 Adding "extra"oil into a mix in the 2 stroke world is a subject that is controversial as an oil war. The folks who do it believe they are getting better protection - the opponents say that oil burns hotter than fuel and caused the engine to run hotter than it would at a normal mix, and that the additional oil changes the fuel/air mix as the fuel has become thicker, and it results in more carbon build up. Back in the days when we just used 30 weight non-detergent motor oil for a 2 cycle engine it took a 20:1 fuel/oil mix - now most oils that are made for a 2 cycle engine run 50:1 mix (racing motorcycles and go kart engines may run some other mix ratio). In a 4 stroke bike.....I don't believe it helps anything, and it mimics having a bike with a worn cylinder or valve seals - and burns oil which carbons things up. Motor oil made to run in crankcases is not designed to burn clean.....if you feel the need to continue this ritual - at least buy a good 2 cycle oil that is made for air cooled engines and burns cleaner. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/23/19 at 06:47:25 52585C565D545059070105350 wrote:
I don't but my experience is mainly on 2 stroke bikes where you could have good compression but an air leak would lean out your motor and kill it. I know the same is not likely true for a 4 stroke but I'm not sure if frequent leak tests are something people do on these motors if they have good compression. The bike is new to me and I don't know its history so I want to be sure if will run great for years to come. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by batman on 03/23/19 at 09:25:37 LiftdT4R, If you have an air leak that leans the fuel mix ,it would be on the intake pipe /or the O-ring between it and the head. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 03/25/19 at 09:38:36 Thanks, I'll skip it for now. I did notice a lot of rust in the tank and petcock so I think you guys may have been right about me being lean and that might be where it's coming from. I have been looking at: http://gastanklining.com/ to do my tank. Price is kind of steep at $350 but I have a gut feeling this is going to be one of those thing I'll be swearing about for hours if I try to do it myself. Anyone used GTL before? Or do you have any recommendations on where I can get my tank lined? |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Dave on 03/25/19 at 10:34:42 You can take a little bit of time and a few dollars and save yourself $250 or more. (Although those tanks that are lined professionally look really nice). http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1386849349/0#1 |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by DragBikeMike on 03/25/19 at 11:40:26 That's a great procedure Dave. I've used the evaporust in the past and think you came up with a great application for the product. It's great that you put so much effort into the written procedure. Lots of hard work on your part that we can all benefit from. Thanks for sharing. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/12/19 at 20:48:09 Hey guys, couple more questions for ya: 1. I found this cut bolt just hanging out in the top end. I'm guessing it was for the valve cover but never having owned a stock Savage I'm not sure as i doesn't show too well in the fiche. Guessing this is part of the Ryca conversion and next time I remove the top end I should get rid of it or hit it with the dremel. http://https://i.imgur.com/NxnhFBq.jpg 2. I had a 146 main in my carb with a 52.5 pilot and the bike ran like hell, just no power at all. I did the compression test and had 140 psi cold so I know it's not there. I believe the bike is jetted wrong and I'll be going with a 55 pilot and 152.5 main. I pulled the clutch cover so I could do the Verslagen cam chain tensioner and I'm wondering: If someone used the wrong oil on this bike, one with a friction modifier, would the friction plates still measure in spec? Around 2001 I used standard motor oil in a YZ80 and smoke the clutch. As I remember the plate still looked good it's just that because of the friction modifier they didn;t work. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by batman on 04/12/19 at 22:41:44 Don't toss that bolt just yet , it belongs in the head ,just forward of the decomp , and holds down the sealing surface in that corner of the head cover. So you'll want to replace it , you can run the bolt downward and and capture a nut placed between the opening in the front of the fins. It's not stock, It's a replacement for the much longer stock bolt (which was only threaded where it pasted above the chrome cover)and placed with the head down in a notch in the fins, and ran up to hold the head cover and up through the chrome "beauty " cover where the nut was tightened to hold both in place. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 04/13/19 at 05:30:31 I wouldn't change out that pilot jet. A 55 is probably too rich. Heck, the 52.5 might be too much for this bike. My bike had a 55 with a 155 and it was a turd. Start with the main first and test. I'm running one jet up from stock for both main and pilot and the bike runs great. I found that even a 50/150 combo was slightly rich in my bike. Based on my experiences, I'd guess you are slightly rich on the bottom and slightly lean on top right now. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/19 at 06:05:14 The Pilot jet doesn’t effect power, just off-throttle response. 90% of the time we are riding on the needle. Raising the needle is probably all you need to do at this point. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/13/19 at 20:06:46 5D5A5B5D5F5D465D320 wrote:
I think you're running a stock airbox IIRC, right? If so I'm going to need to be richer than that and from what I was reading with the Ryca muffler and pod filter a 152.2 and 52.5 should do the trick or at least give me a good starting point. What worries me is that the pilot air screw was 3 turns out which means larger pilot jet but the bike wasn't running great so I'll have to wait to verify Also, does anyone have any info on the clutch? If the PO ran car oil would the clutch not measure right or would it still look good and just not grab? Thanks, and a pic of my bike as it sits now, cam chain tensioner and front rotor are off to verslagen. http://https://i.imgur.com/1xVIAq8.jpg I have no idea how many miles are on this bike because the PO did the Ryca conversion. Judging by the cam chain tensioner I'm going to say not many though. Everything looks very clean. http://https://i.imgur.com/VemjXuH.jpg |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by Yoshi on 04/13/19 at 23:13:56 Look at that cam chain adjuster, looks like 9k miles to me. Are you gonna replace it with the verslavy version while you’re in there? |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 04/14/19 at 05:11:59 "What worries me is that the pilot air screw was 3 turns out which means larger pilot jet but the bike wasn't running great so I'll have to wait to verify..." ------ You have that backwards. The more you turn the air screw out, the more air you let in which means you are already rich and you should consider a smaller pilot jet. And the stock airbox breathes better than many pod filters. Someone dyno'd a Ryca pancake filter a long time ago and it proved to be far more restrictive than a stock box. What does you plug look like? It should be a very light tan, almost white, if it's running clean. If it's chocolate, you're already rich. If there is any black soot or oil on it, you're way rich. It's a very useful way to determine which way to go with jetting. Also, if the bike runs better when it cold out, it's rich. If it runs worse in cold weather, it's lean. When in doubt, go back to stock and work from there. As for the oil, don't use anything with a bunch of additives if you want your clutch to work properly. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/14/19 at 07:04:37 Thanks, I know not to use auto engine oil due to the friction modifiers but what I'm wondering if if the PO did, what will the clutch look like? The clutch thickness is spot on and the clutch looks brand new. I only rode the bike once but it rode like hell. I tore it down to investigate and do the verslagen cam chain tensioner mod. What I've found so far is the wrong plug was in the bike, the oil looked black as night, and the carb was jetted incorrectly. When I say the bike rode like hell it had no power past 1/4 throttle. I don't think it's a clutch issue but can't be certain so I was thinking I'll just change the clutch while I have the side cover off but was wondering if there's anyway to tell if the PO used an oil with friction modifiers. Also, Clymers Page 153 is very confusing. I have one friction disc that's thicker than the rest that's up against the clutch hub. Is this normal? Clymers reads like it should be the opposite. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/19 at 08:59:10 17323D2F3F0F6F095B0 wrote:
clymers has errors, that is one of them. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1119775997 |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by batman on 04/14/19 at 09:42:40 No ,Ohiomoto you have it backwards , it's a fuel mix screw, the more you open it the more fuel you add to the idle circuit . we have no air mix screw. If the screw is out 3+ turns it could mean you need to go to the next larger pilot jet , but I would first check to see if the spacer mod was done, and how many #4 steel washers washers were used . (I would think two for his elevation -near sea level) and at least a 150 main jet. ( I know of only one owner running the stock 145 and he's at 6000 ft in the Rockies). Liftdt4r , If the PO used the wrong oil and the clutch is slipping it may be that the discs and steels are glazed, soaking them in gas and giving them a light sanding ,allowing them to dry ,and oiling them ,should return them to normal . But I'd try just changing to some good -moly free-oil ,the slipping may stop over time ,if you do a couple of changes over a bit faster intervals ,say 1,000 miles? |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/14/19 at 10:38:32 Gotta drop the idle to get a good adjustment on it. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/14/19 at 13:49:43 Thanks guys, awesome info!! So, if I'm more than 2.5 turns out on the idle mix screw when tuning the bike I should be going to a LARGER pilot jet, correct? That's what I figured as I believe backing out the screw makes the bike richer. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/14/19 at 14:08:12 Unless that adjustment was made without lowering the idle speed, |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/14/19 at 17:22:17 I'm sure I'll have to pull the carb off and mess around with it some more. I have no clue what the PO did and I doubt he does either. I'm just looking for a starting point and I think 152.5 / 52.5 is it. At least that's what Ryca recommends and that's what it looks like folks are doing here. I got pretty far rebuilding my carb today. Lots of scrubbing and playing around with stuff. Dropped in a new needle jet and jet needle as well as did the white spacer mod. I am using 3 washers to start. The needle in my rebuild kit had 3 clip positions on it so I used the one closest to stock. The taper of the needle and length look identical. Also, I got a replacement pilot in my rebuild kit but it looks quite a bit different than the one that came out of my carb. The one that was in my carb is on top and the one from the rebuild kit is on the bottom. I'm not worried about the depth but I am worried about the taper of the needle. The needle on the rebuild one looks much thinner. Any advice on this? http://https://i.imgur.com/X7vunU6.jpg |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/14/19 at 17:38:15 Also, on these carbs, where exactly does the pilot circuit run? It looks like air is pulled from the intake side and travels to the underside of the diaphragm. Then it goes through the two small jets and down into the carb somewhere where it mixes with the fuel pulled from the pilot jet in the bowl. Most of the bikes I've worked on with vacuum carbs don't have the pilot circuit running through the diaphragm area but I'm guessing it's done this way here due to the TEV. Am I right? I drew this pic to see if I'm understanding this correctly: http://https://i.imgur.com/oANlQ0q.jpg Also, this seemed like a really good video explaining a normal vacuum carb at 4:16 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B-fLDOBqzo |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by badwolf on 04/14/19 at 20:10:43 Looks like you got a ''universal'' carb rebuild kit. Fits a little of everything, sort-of, and exactly fits nothing. That screw ain't even close, and if the needle for inside the slide has 3 notches, IT'S WRONG! Reuse the stock needle, they don't wear out, ever. They can get bent or installed wrong however. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by batman on 04/14/19 at 20:43:34 Badwolf's right ,reuse the stock or purchase a stock fuel mix screw, and he's also right about the jet needle The stock needle has zero taper ( if the new one looks tapered it is incorrect ), and you need to use the matching stock needle jet , mixing and matching won't work! I believe the TEV and the pilot outlets can be seen if you look in the carb 's mouth (discharge) down stream of the throttle plate ,the two small holes at about 8 O'çlock are the pilot discharges ,one is always open and the other is where the fuel mix screw is located( it acts to fine tune the fuel ,not shut it completely off)If you adjust it and it's at 2 1/2 turns your OK , the pilot doesn't need to be larger unless your over 3 turns out. The TEV outlet is at about 4 O'clock about an equal distance from the throttle plate. Your choice of 52.5 /152.5 jets sounds OK ,keep in mind that as jet size increases fuel mileage decreases . |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by ohiomoto on 04/15/19 at 05:37:37 3033263F333C666A520 wrote:
I stand corrected then! If it's a fuel screw, my advise was screwed up. Sorry Liftd. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/15/19 at 14:14:40 Thanks guys! I'm certain you've saved me a ton of time during tuning! I've tossed the stock needle jet and jet needleback in and I'll reuse the mix screw. Both were in great shape. One more quick question. On the fuel valve in the carb I see a small plastic cap with a screen. I've never seen this on any other carbs I've worked on. Is this really needed or can I pop it off? I can't imagine it filters much after the petcock in the tank and all. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by badwolf on 04/15/19 at 16:27:11 Leave the filter in the carb. I clean mine every 20k or so, and they DO catch stuff. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/15/19 at 18:29:35 20,000 miles? Wow! It took me 10 years to put 7,000 miles on my last bike and I ride less and less. One of the other posters said my bike has about 9,000 miles on it judging by the cam chain tensioner. I prob could have just cleaned the carb instead of replacing everything. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by badwolf on 04/15/19 at 19:44:58 I did almost 7k last August on my Salt Flats trip. I have had my bike just over 4 years. Rolled over 84k coming home from the west coast (Florida) saturday night. I'm really getting to like this retirement thing! End of the month I'm going to South Carolina for a Roller Derby Tournment, should be 1600 miles in 3 1/2 days. I have done the thousand in one 2 & 1/2 times with this bike. The third time it was only 998 miles. Living in S. Florida I can ride year-around. And it is 5 hours to the state line whenever I go anywhere. I have always tried to travel on a bike, and now I don't have to worry about work if I want to change my plans while on the road so be it. I put 140k on my old Yamaha 750 triple, about 240k on my Gold Wing, 78k on my Pacific Coast, and now my aim is 150k on this S-40. should hit 100k by the end of this year. I have a pin in my leg (old MX injury) but some of my friends think I have a stainless steel backbone. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by batman on 04/15/19 at 20:40:07 The screen just sits on a ledge atop the valve seat ,you can lift it off and back flush it . I'd keep the filter it may be needed to space the seat at it's proper depth ,between it , and the filter on the petcock ,an inline filter on the fuel line isn't needed and they have a habit of becoming air bound, or small openings causing flow problems , more trouble than they're worth. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 04/28/19 at 16:52:29 All right! Finally getting my bike back together as parts start to come in here and there and I have some down time from work. I did the cam chain tensioner and put my clutch back together today!! http://https://i.imgur.com/STtwLY0.jpg The clutch measured out just fine. I had major power issue off idle but I'm currently attributing that to lean jetting although I'm secretly wondering if I didnt feel the clutch slip a little. I have no idea what oil the PO used and hopefully it didnt have friction modifiers. The side gasket is cheaper than a new clutch so I'll give her a whirl! The cam chain tensioner went one click out when I put her on and let her loose. Is that too tight and should I put it back on the second hole? What does this bolt do? I thought it was the oil drain plug but I cant seem to figure out what it does? http://https://i.imgur.com/S1hGE3u.jpg Also, I'm having trouble with my Ryca seat. When on the bike and bolted down the back end shifts around quite a bit. Am I missing something or do you guys have a fix for this? It seems like the rubber bumper should have some kind of dowel in it where the bolts go through to prevent this. http://https://i.imgur.com/90dNYlW.jpg As always, thanks guys!! I'm just waiting on my tank to come back form being lined and then I'll fire her up and see how she runs. I'm really looking forward to it. I bought the bike a couple months back now and have been really itching to ride! http://https://i.imgur.com/ZdQ4DAB.jpg |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by verslagen1 on 04/28/19 at 20:39:09 5F7A756777472741130 wrote:
It depends... do you ever want to see it again? No, leave it there. Yes, it will have less tension and won't wear the chain as much but for the gap between the pin and the end of the slot you can guess at 2000 miles per mm. Quote:
It's so you can check the oil pressure. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 05/01/19 at 19:11:30 Thanks!! Also, the Ryca kit does away with the sidestand switch. Is there any way to also do away with the sidestand relay? I'm trying to tidy up my wiring harness while I have the bike apart. What exactly does the sidestand diode do? I know a diode only let's current flow in one direction but I'm lost on what the point of that is here. EDIT: Looks like blue to blue/black to keep the neutral light and get rid of the diode and orange to orange/black to get rid of the relay. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1239071437/7 Still curious how this system actually operates. Best I can tell is the sidestand relay sees current from the neutral indicator and kickstand so it completes the circuit between orange and orange/black to send current to the stop switch. I think I got everything figured out or at least I've got this pile of junk removed from my harness and my bike still starts. http://https://i.imgur.com/7yDerVK.jpg I know it's not a good idea to remove these safety switches and I wouldnt advise anyone to do it. The PO lopped the plunger of the clutch switch and wired the sidestand switch together so just wanted to remove the extra stuff in the harness associated with that. I dont want to have to diagnose diode or relay issues in the future. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 05/19/19 at 05:56:31 Hey guys, got my gas tank back from GTL and everything back together. Let me say I am impressed with the bike! It's a real hoot to ride! My carb issues are 99% solved and the bike is just a blast! Here's a pic of my tank, GTL isnt cheap bu the results were awesome! Hard to get a good pic of the lining. http://https://i.imgur.com/bkghtxU.jpg http://https://i.imgur.com/x5uXzBq.jpg Here's a pic of my completed bike. I still am messing around with the wire routing because I'd like to leave off the side panels so I still have some work there. http://https://i.imgur.com/zDQg5p4.jpg Also, I still have a carb issue. I just read another post by a member who's having the same thing. I went through the whole pilot screw setup. I found the best spot at exactly 2.5 turns out but I had to set my idle to 1,400 RPM to keep it from dying. Even still when I pull in the clutch or rev the motor up high and let off the throttle it sometimes dies or the RPMs fall way way down to where it sounds like it will die. I'm thinking 2 things. I should go up from the 52.5 pilot to a 55 or maybe reverse the white spacer mod. I'm currently running 2 washer and was thinking maybe I'm rich in the mid range. I'm also running a 152.5 main up from a 147. The bike runs awesome other than this small issue. |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 05/27/19 at 07:39:52 Well. I've been riding her all weekend and everything seems to be sorted out save for a couple very minor issues. The 155 main and 55 pilot work perfect! I also went ahead and installed a RAM ball in my unused mirror hole so I could use my RAM mount from my other bikes. http://https://i.imgur.com/w5Vj27N.jpg My only 2 minor issues are, the vacuum cap that I put on the carb where the old petcock drew from keeps blowing off and then the bike runs like heck. I'm on my 3rd now and I zip tied it on. Is this a normal issue or an indication of something worse? Also I have a small oil leak on the belt side. It looks like there;s a penetration in the case for a wire and that seems to be my issue. It's not bad but I'll have to dig in and take a look. Happy Memorial Day!! |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by BrokeAss on 05/27/19 at 08:09:46 4A6F607262523254060 wrote:
Get a proper vacuum port plug with a clamp: |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by LiftdT4R on 05/27/19 at 17:17:34 Thanks!! Any link to one of those. I bought the raptor pet thingy kit off flea bay but it didnt come with a clip and now the vacuum cap is on the side of the road somewhere. Also I'm having a small amount of oil blow out of the rear port on the right side of the engine. This is actually the oil leak I previously described. I've ridden 300 miles and the oil level is not noticeably lower but there is a fine mist of oil covering the bottom of the carb, starter, and crank case of the engine. There is a small spot under the bike where I park it in the garage. Should I be worried? Is this normal for these bikes? I estimate there are 9,000 miles on it and it's a 1998. EDIT: I'm guessing it's the notorious access plug leak. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1327896745 Sound about right? If so I'll keep an eye on the oil level and change out the plug this winter. Also, the PO removed the cylinder head covers but did not install any of the hardware back into the holes. Is this ok? It doesnt look like they actually seal anything. http://https://i.imgur.com/vpMRMYU.jpg |
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Title: Re: New Member, Used Ryca Post by batman on 05/28/19 at 11:59:33 Usually with the plug leak the oil fines it's way out the front of the motor at the exhaust header ,runs across the front fins to the left side of the motor , but it's possible it's being blown through to the rear, two other places it could be from is the center head bolt directly below the carb( it faces down, the nut is in the recess in the fins, or the head bolt inside under the top cap-the right rear (rare ,but we have seen it) I can't see any oil in the picture ,it maybe do to your cylinder being black . You'll need to clean the motor and look for the leak to determine where it actually is . none is "life threating " but leaks don't get better. I'd even check that your breather hose has enough arch in it ( to allow the oil to drain back to the motor) ,as it normally goes to the other side of the bike and into the air box. PS. a hockey puck formed to have the same shape as your kickstand foot at the top and tapered to about twice that size at it's base and through bolted works much better than a wooden board, even on soft sand, to hold your bike up and it travels with you. |
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