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Message started by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 01/27/18 at 01:58:32

Title: Clutch
Post by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 01/27/18 at 01:58:32

What's the best clutch and springs available for this bike ?

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 04/22/18 at 20:00:32

Any cluch mods out there yet

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/22/18 at 20:27:07

I don't know of a problem with the stock clutch.
Its weakest link is that sintered metal throw out.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 04/22/18 at 22:04:44

::)
0A151314090E3F0F3F07151952600 wrote:
I don't know of a problem with the stock clutch.
Its weakest link is that sintered metal throw out.



It slips with my big butt on it with the 97mm piston and ported head and cam lol

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by Dave on 04/23/18 at 03:20:12

There aren't many options.

When the bike is cold and the oil is thick - the clutch can slip if full throttle is used.  Until the bike is warmed up....you should avoid full throttle.

The stock clutch works well and with my 95mm, Stage 1 cam, ported head and taller gearing it doesn't slip - but doesn't have a lot of reserve capacity.  (I never apply throttle between shifts until the clutch lever is released and the clutch is fully engaged).  The clutch is known to slip if anyone has ever used an oil with a friction modifier (car oil) as the moly or whatever they use impregnates the plates and causes them to slip - and if the clutch is even slightly out of adjustment it will slip.
(Maybe that expensive oil you use is just too slippery). ;)

There are some companies that sell springs that are supposed to be 10% stiffer - as JOG said the sintered throw out is a weak leak and can break....some members just put a single washer under the springs to get a bit more pressure and were able to break the throw out.

I would suggest you take the clutch apart, clean it well, lightly sand it on a piece of 320 sandpaper glued/taped to a sheet of glass to remove the glaze, clean it again - then put it back together and try using Rotella oil and see if it makes any difference (it is a good oil for this big lawn mower engine).

There are also Kevlar clutch plates available....I don't know if they provide any additional grip over the stock plates.

Oldfeller has been threatening to sand the fiber plates thinner so he can stick an extra plate in.....nobody has tried that yet.    

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 04/23/18 at 07:17:20

Well I was using the oil you recommended the Rotella oil to see how well it works because I wanted a non-synthetic to break the motor in. I do have the 10% stronger Springs in it already I think I will have to get springs made if my motul don't take care of the problem. But I might just get a set of Springs made anyway so that I can sell them on here for people that are heavier like me  ;D

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by batman on 04/23/18 at 07:22:35

It 's an older bike , you may want to check the clutch rod length , as the plates wear the rod can become to long, and the clutch not fully engage . I believe Vercy said that the rod should stick out less than 13mm from the face of the clutch, Suzuki factory offers them in three sizes at little cost.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/23/18 at 07:25:47

some members just put a single washer under the springs to get a bit more pressure and were able to break the throw out.

Me..for one.

Suggest you get a billet made throw out IF you Jack with springs.
I've seen reports of them breaking with no mods. It's Not funny when they go. It somehow managed to get the rear cam chain guide.
And that makes someone a pedestrian.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 04/23/18 at 07:26:36


2B283D2428277D71490 wrote:
It 's an older bike , you may want to check the clutch rod length , as the plates wear the rod can become to long, and the clutch not fully engage . I believe Vercy said that the rod should stick out less than 13mm from the face of the clutch, Suzuki factory offers them in three sizes at little cost.



I put a new one in with the the new motor build I am a big guy I am over 300 lbs.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 04/23/18 at 07:30:09


5F4046415C5B6A5A6A52404C07350 wrote:
some members just put a single washer under the springs to get a bit more pressure and were able to break the throw out.

Me..for one.

Suggest you get a billet made throw out IF you Jack with springs.
I've seen reports of them breaking with no mods. It's Not funny when they go. It somehow managed to get the rear cam chain guide.
And that makes someone a pedestrian.






Looks like we need some of the machinist on here to build a Billet basket and make a heavier Duty clutch setup

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/23/18 at 07:38:37

At least throw out.
I don't see a problem with the basket

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by Dave on 04/23/18 at 07:57:31


687771766B6C5D6D5D65777B30020 wrote:
I don't see a problem with the basket


It might be nice to get another fiber plate squeezed in there....the DR650 uses 1 more plate than the Savage.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/23/18 at 09:15:06

That just might be The Tikkit. That could solve the slipping problem without a spring pressure change, right?

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by Dave on 04/23/18 at 09:22:36


56494F4855526353635B49450E3C0 wrote:
That just might be The Tikkit. That could solve the slipping problem without a spring pressure change, right?


It has been considered as a possible cure........but so far nobody has actually done it.  Thinning down the plates is not all that easy....if you don't have a thickness sander.  Trying to mount 6 plates onto a faceplate on a lathe and cutting 12 surfaces sure would take a long while.  And I don't know how much of the grooves would be left or how thick the fiber lining would be.  

Wonder what would happen if I tried to feed the plates through a wood planer? :o

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/23/18 at 10:23:49

You'll have a million hits on you tube.
Maybe even make enough to replace the broken parts and emergency room expenses.

If you could build a cylinder that the disks would stay in with the surface raised by the amount you wanted to remove, do all of them, raise the bottom, and do it again?
But they are So thin..
Maybe a coil from an automotive air conditioner to suck them down, and then you have a solid, square spinning holder.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by verslagen1 on 04/23/18 at 10:47:57

:-?

send them out and have them blanchard ground.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by GT61 TURBO ZX14 on 04/23/18 at 12:31:21


53686572636F747269616C73000 wrote:
[quote author=56494F4855526353635B49450E3C0 link=1517047112/0#12 date=1524500106]That just might be The Tikkit. That could solve the slipping problem without a spring pressure change, right?


It has been considered as a possible cure........but so far nobody has actually done it.  Thinning down the plates is not all that easy....if you don't have a thickness sander.  Trying to mount 6 plates onto a faceplate on a lathe and cutting 12 surfaces sure would take a long while.  And I don't know how much of the grooves would be left or how thick the fiber lining would be.  

Wonder what would happen if I tried to feed the plates through a wood planer? :o
[/quote]



Lol definitely not a good idea to put it through a wood planer ;D


What about buying the DRZ clutches and plates or will a DRZ basket fit in there or what about building everything out of Billet and replacing the parts of a break so we can have heavy duty springs made?

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by Dave on 04/23/18 at 12:49:47


1A36253C00103622233F3E3225570 wrote:
What about buying the DRZ clutches and plates or will a DRZ basket fit in there or what about building everything out of Billet and replacing the parts of a break so we can have heavy duty springs made?


Sounds like a good project for you.

(Not me.....as my clutch doesn't slip, and I can't afford to have custom billet parts machined for me).

The option of an extra clutch plate is likely an affordable and workable option.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by Dave on 04/23/18 at 18:08:51


032F3C2519092F3B3A26272B3C4E0 wrote:
Lol definitely not a good idea to put it through a wood planer ;D


I wasn't suggesting the metal plates be put in a surface planer - but the fiber plates may not be any tougher than wood and might stand up to a bit of abuse by the planer.  My only concern is in keeping the plates flat so they don't come loose in the planer.  I would feel much better about a thickness sander that uses a feed belt and sandpaper on a roller.

Title: Re: Clutch
Post by MMRanch on 04/23/18 at 18:22:05

I've had two of these savages for more than 40,000 miles each.   Both of them started having "Slipply Clutch" problems at about the same millage.

What I have found is :
the clutch pack does not fill the min. space between the sides of the clutch pack .    apparently both ends are made of aluminum and wear to the point of not being able to tighten up on the disk in the middle.

I proved this by putting two of the "Extra thick (.135")" fiber disk instead of one thick and all the rest thin disk (.115) , for a short term fix.    For a long term fix I have bought an extra metal disk (.062") to put against the aluminum end piece.
That extra .020" made the clutch stop slipping.  ;)
When the aluminum wears more and starts slipping again I'll add the .062" to protect the aluminum from further wear.

:)


Title: Re: Clutch
Post by Dave on 04/24/18 at 03:10:29


4A584A58554649444F070 wrote:
I've had two of these savages for more than 40,000 miles each.   Both of them started having "Slipply Clutch" problems at about the same millage.


MM....you need to shorten the rod in the center of the clutch.  As the clutch discs wear, the rod becomes too long to allow the springs to pull the plates together.  Suzuki sells 3 different length rods so you don't have to put shims in your clutch.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/3_rods.JPG

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