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Message started by mkelee on 06/11/17 at 10:44:18

Title: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by mkelee on 06/11/17 at 10:44:18

Blew apart 1st motor no oil!
Bought a replacement motor on ebay used original carb and starter.
Dropped it in wired it up.
It gets has gas and spark, put plug against fins and hit the starter saw spark. It just turns over and over .... used ether and nothing it just turns over!! Timing???

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by verslagen1 on 06/11/17 at 10:47:47

need more info

what year original?
what year replacement?

Battery condition?
volts while turning?

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by mkelee on 06/11/17 at 15:06:26

Bike is a 1996 the replaced motor is a 1997. Haven't tested the voltage when turning the bike over. Battery is brand new.

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by verslagen1 on 06/11/17 at 15:21:50

well, you need to check it cause most batteries don't come with a full charge.
10v will spin the starter fine, but it'll never start.

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by mkelee on 06/11/17 at 15:46:28

The battery charged overnight, and was resding 14 volts when i pulled it off the charger.

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by batman on 06/11/17 at 16:22:26

But it remains to be seen what the voltage is when the starter is running, you might also remove the sparkplug and add a small amount of oil into the cylinder to seal the rings ,not score the piston walls and build compression, you might also want to check your valve clearances for the same reason .fuel ,spark ,& compression =run

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by Gary_in_NJ on 06/11/17 at 19:27:59

I would also confirm compression to rule out a timing chain issue. Do you have the tools for a leak-down test?

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/11/17 at 19:50:26

the starter motor RPM will tell you if it's got enough compression to run.

If it's not hitting and the RPM doesn't speed up and slow down, the load isn't changing, maybe you need to fog the cylinder and protect your engine.
After that, put a plug in the engine, but hook the plug wire to your Plug that BELONGS in the engine and hold it against the motor and hit start.
Now you know if the ignition system will make a spark at that voltage and load on the starter.
If you have spark, put it in, and if you have a stock petcock, put it on prime.
If it's not hitting,
Check the air filter and shoot some ether in it.
And the battery can't fall very low and still make a spark.
The starter motor has to be spinning to know how low it's going.

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by mkelee on 06/15/17 at 19:52:02

Battery is good, starter is turning 13.4 v when turning, there is spark. Valves have been adjusted. But the compression is at 60psi.
I am not familiar with the decompression valve, My guess is it makes it easier to start. Can the decompression effect checking compression?
Otherwise the ebay motor needs a top end!

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by verslagen1 on 06/15/17 at 20:22:44

the decomp kicks the exhaust valve open for a 1/2 second so the starter can turn the crank w/out coming to a stop at the compression stroke.
once the crank is turning it has enough momentum to spin thru the compression stroke.

So look at the decomp lever when you push the button, it should pull up then come back down.

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by Ruttly on 06/15/17 at 21:20:12

How many miles on the replacement engine ?
Look at it close sounds like something stupid , loose connector or something not connected.
Only needs air , fuel and spark at the right time ::)

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by mkelee on 06/16/17 at 08:19:15

Thank You Verslagen1, The decomp lever does not come back down after it goes up.
I will check it out further tonight.

Title: Re: Replacement Motor No Start
Post by Savageman on 06/16/17 at 12:36:50

It won't start with only 60psi for compression. It might not even fire with ether sprayed in. Disconnect the decompression solenoid then do a compression test. Should be up in the 100s like 145 to 180psi. If it's still at 60 then you have a burnt valve or valve seat. Or a severely worn set of piston rings and worn cylinder. You could try putting 1tblsp of motor oil in the cylinder before you do the comp test. If it raises up significantly then your piston, rings, cylinder is at fault. :-?