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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> The Cafe >> DRZ Tracker Project /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1484061156 Message started by Gary_in_NJ on 01/10/17 at 07:12:36 |
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Title: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/10/17 at 07:12:36 http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/EB588-SuzukiDRZ400-01_zpszrr6r14k.jpg First things first. Why in the world am I posting a build log about a DRZ in the Suzuki Savage Forums? There are a few reasons. When I posted my intention of this build several members asked me to create a build log. There is a strong custom-build contingent that participates in these forums, so if this log inspires someone else to take on this project - or a completely different project - than it’s done its job. The other reason is quite simple, I don’t have any place else to post it. This is the only motorcycle forum that I participate. Enjoy. So why this build? Well, just look at that photo at the top of this page! This bike was designed and built by Leo Yip, Director of Ellaspede, a custom bike manufacturer located in Brisbane, Australia. They sell parts for the bikes that they create as well as clothing and other moto related stuff. Here is a link to their custom builds (be warned, there’s a lot of inspiration on that page): http://www.ellaspede.com/bikes/ I first saw this bike on motorcycledaily.com, “Stunning Conversion of Suzuki Single by Australian Customizer”, September 30, 2016. I instantly felt a connection to this bike. To me it is everything I want in a motorcycle; beautiful lines, light-weight, reasonable power, based on a modern design. The attention to detail is extraordinary – it’s one of the most factory looking customs I’ve seen. In fact I left a comment on the story comments section that read “Oh how I wish an OEM would grace us with such inspired designs”. I found myself going back to that page, and other pages that I found about the bike, quite often. After a few weeks of drooling over the photos I thought to myself “why wait for an OEM to build a bike that I know they never will. I have skills and tools – I’ll do this myself”. For most projects like this I typically start by tearing the bike down, deciding on a game plan and then I wait for parts and/or build parts as I need them. This time I’m gonna do it differently. For this build I’m going to get as many of the parts I can identify as being needed BEFORE the bike goes on my work table. Besides, my bike table has my café racer on it right now as I’m waiting for parts to return from the paint shop. Anyway, I’m hoping to plan ahead - and by doing so reduce project frustration. Of course, every detail cannot be foreseen, but if I can get the big picture parts in hand, many of the little details will reveal themselves in the process. This doesn’t appear to be too complicated of a build (I’ll regret those words at some point). From a major task standpoint (and using a standard unit of time measurement) it appears to be: 1. Strip and clean (2 to 4 beers) 2. Modify the frame to accept/mount a vintage fuel tank (3 beers) 3. Modify subframe to accept a seat pan and seat cowl. There is potential that I may have to make/modify my own seat pan, cowl and undertray. (3 to 8 beers) 4. Lower the forks (2 beers) 5. Re-lace both wheels (3 beers) 6. Relocate radiator brackets to clear tank and keep out of fork arc/swing (3 to 4 beers) 7. Modify wiring harness as required (2 to 3 beers) 8. Modify bash plate for exhaust (2 beers) – or just not use it (0 beers – So’ I’ll do my best to modify it) 9. Make modifications as required to mount/wire headlight/instruments/turn-signals (3 to 5 beers) 10. Eliminate airbox (2 to 3 beers) 11. Re-plumb cooling system for new radiator location and elimination of coolant reservoir tank (same as RMZ450) (2 to 3 beers) In all this should only be a 24 to 36 beer project (I’ll allow for an additional 12 beers for tasks that I’ve yet to identify). I believe that the difficult tasks will be the relocation of the radiators and the seat/cowl/undretray. I’m hoping that kit parts become available for those two in the near future (more to come on that) so those two items could potentially be a modify and bolt-on process only. If that is the case, this build will go from “not too complicated” to easy. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Dave on 01/10/17 at 07:28:32 Gary.....we appreciate you posting and sharing this project - a lot of us are gearheads and we aren't limited to working on the Savage exclusively (I am just about to start my 250 Ninja project with a kit from Blue Collar Bobbers that I will be modifying a bit to suit my own needs). I hope you can get the Cafe' bike back together by the time warm weather returns....so you have something to ride when you need to pick up more beer (a 6 pack can be hauled in a backpack). ;) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 01/10/17 at 10:19:50 I like it! Off road bikes are some of the easiest "performance" bikes to ride and are a tone of fun. I bet this thing will be a blast to ride. 4E75786F7E72696F747C716E1D0 wrote:
That's why I always take my car to grab beer. My wife would kill me if I came home with just a 6 pack! Something about getting enough to share? |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 01/10/17 at 10:22:02 My tracker , 3 years , almost done , estimated alcohol, 2357 beers & 6 gal of good tequila :D |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by LANCER on 01/10/17 at 15:24:44 Nice, looks like All Business. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/11/17 at 05:53:02 To me, the fuel tank is the defining feature of this bike. The tail section is unique and beautifully constructed, but my eyes are drawn to the tank and the aggressive front-to-rear stance of the bike. So this “build” started (or more accurately me killing time on my iPad) with me trying to identify the fuel tank used on the subject bike. In the many write-ups available on-line about this bike Leo doesn’t reveal the fuel tank exact origin but I knew from the research I did on the bike that it had been identified as being from a 1970’s vintage Suzuki off-road bike. The unique feature of this tank is the rising neck near the steering head. On one website there was a suggestion that it was from a TM-400, so I started there. It wasn’t (and I should have known because my brother owned a TM-400). So I looked at the entire TM line from that period. No luck. Then I moved onto the early RM line, the TS line and the TC line. No luck. Maybe it was a trials bike? Nope, not a PE either. I came to the conclusion that the builder must have done some custom fabrication to the tank to make the neck happen. I don’t have that type of welding skill, so that kind of makes this build a non-starter for me. Discouraged I forget about the bike for a few weeks. Then in December I stumbled across another photo of the bike in an article called “The Best Bike Builds of 2016”. There is was…what is that tank? I decided to research every bike Suzuki built in the 70’s, starting at 1970 and working my way up. After a few days I came across a bike line that I (and probably most American’s) all but forgot about, the DS line. I typed “1978 Suzuki DS” into Google and up came a photo of a 1978 DS185 with that tank! More research showed that that tank was used on the entire DS line (100/125/185/250) in 1978 and 1979. A look on ebay showed 3 examples available; one unusable tank for $99, one decent tank that needed light body work (also had light rust inside) for $150, and a NOS for $899. I reflected on these choices for a few days. From my café racer experience I knew that a little repair work actually equals a lot of time or money; and there was no way I was going to spend $900 on a tank. I decided that the $150 could be a good value and decided to look at it again. And it was gone. Undeterred and now emotionally committed, I started to think “Suzuki reuses everything as much as possible…and they are a worldwide platform…where else was that tank used”? There’s no way they developed that tank for the little produced DS series. I started looking at exploded views on ronayers.com. The 78-79 model years were the last years Suzuki used metal fuel tanks on their off-road bikes, and I learned that Suzuki made two versions of the TS line, a TSxxxT and a TSxxxC. I believe that the T models were made for the US and the C models were sold worldwide. I was very familiar with T style as I owned a number of these bikes in, and from, the ‘70’s. The difference between the models seems to be that the T had features more geared to dirt riding (like a high front fender) while the C was more street orientated (low front fender). The C models use the same fuel tank used on the DS line. My search criteria just opened up to include the TS100C, TS125C, TS185C and TS250C. The TS/C’s and the DS’s all use a similar 2.11 (100/125/185) to 2.6 (250) gallon tank. A search on ebay showed a number of tanks available, all in very rough condition with corrosion on the inside. I also decided to contact a few part locating services hoping to expand my reach. After a few days I was offered a DS185 tank in primer for $350. Unknown to me was the amount work done on the tank to get to this condition. If dents were simply filled rather than properly removed that could have a significant impact on the miniscule 2.11 gallon capacity. I decided to compare this tank to those available on ebay. On this day there was also a listing for a NOS tank from a TS-125C for $399. This tank was located in Finland and shipping was actually very reasonable. I clicked “Buy it Now” and declared myself committed to the DRZ build. The only thing I needed now was a donor bike and to make contact with Leo Yip to see if he’d be willing to share information or even build me one of his tail sections/seatpan. Thinking about it, that seems like something I should have done that first, right? http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/IMG_2696_zpsaugojytk.jpg I really like the paint job on the Ellaspede bike - but this tank is original 1978 Suzuki. I may attempt to remove the graphics, but if they can't be removed without leaving a perfect tank, my build will include the theme of these graphics. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 01/11/17 at 07:14:12 Nice tank. I would leave it as is. Even though I'm not a huge fan of that particular graphic I think it will end up looking great once it's on the bike. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/12/17 at 05:48:56 I have owned dozens of bikes over the years, and if I had to guess I’d say that 90% of them were purchased in the dead of winter. To me, it’s just the best time to shop and find bargains. So in early December I started to look for a DR-Z400 on Craig’s List. There are 3 models of the DR-Z400; the E that is an off-road only version (kick start only too), the S which is street legal (e-start only) and includes turn signals, DOT lighting, a brake light and mirrors, and the SM which is a supermoto version of the S that has an USD forks (same fork as the E & S, just USD), 17” wheels, big front brake and an upgraded pumper carburetor. I love the SM version but two things kept me from seeking this version; (1) the cost and (2) Leo used an S version and it just looks right. But if I’m being honest, it was mostly the cost. It’s hard to find an SM for less than $4,000 and most sell for closer to $5,000. Too rich for a build bike. I found a lot of S models in the $3,000-$4,000 range, but I thought those were also too expensive for a build bike. Ideally I was looking for a non-wrecked bike with spent/broken plastics. Something with low miles, rough where it didn’t matter but in good condition where it did. My ideal bike should cost below $2,500. I was doing a little research on how to add a kick starter to an S model (because I’m a weirdo that loves to kick a bike to life) where I read “this kit fits all S and KLX models”. And then I remembered that the Kawasaki KLX400 is just a DRZ with green plastic. A look on Craig’s showed that there was a 2003 KLX with 6,000 just 35 minutes from me. This bike fit my ideal bike criteria; low miles, worn plastic (and torn seat), low price - $1,800. I loaded it into my truck the next day. It's dirty and rough looking, but it runs perfectly. This build is now very real. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2706_zpsta5ddxb8.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2707_zpsh2j9pthx.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2708_zpsjgg8a0ix.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2709_zpsuwxsq7pc.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2710_zpsztebadjz.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2711_zpsl3xexnae.jpg |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by xaman on 01/12/17 at 06:46:19 Your inspiration bike in post #1 is absolutely gorgeous. Really excited to watch this unfold, thanks for taking time to let us see the work and progress. Good luck with this build. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by justin_o_guy2 on 01/12/17 at 08:57:56 Well, if you're gonna make it pretty, you've sure got a job ahead of you. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by LANCER on 01/12/17 at 09:00:59 I really like the colors and graphics on the tank. I vote for leaving as is. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/12/17 at 09:02:12 544B4D4A5750615161594B470C3E0 wrote:
Paint hides all sins :) The parts that matter are in good shape. BTW, take a close look at the original bike - there's all sorts of scars on the engine case and frame. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 01/12/17 at 09:21:55 3A30343E353C38316F696D5D0 wrote:
Paint hides all sins :) The parts that matter are in good shape. BTW, take a close look at the original bike - there's all sorts of scars on the engine case and frame.[/quote] -------------------- I like to call that "au·then·tic·i·ty" :) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by justin_o_guy2 on 01/12/17 at 11:12:04 When they do my autopsy they will declare me to be authentic. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 01/15/17 at 14:01:53 Gary , Is that a stock DRZ fork or has it been lowered ? |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by pg on 01/15/17 at 14:27:02 This one came out really well;although, it is a KLR. http://68.media.tumblr.com/02bed2551c8e318e3756100e8c2a398b/tumblr_o9jbsw0Pbi1tsuh4zo1_1280.jpg Best regards, |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by verslagen1 on 01/15/17 at 14:53:42 and this is what you'll look like riding it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bwjpc8I-0kw |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Rodger on 01/15/17 at 15:20:03 Cool video!!! File that one in the "Where There's a Will, There's a Way" category....Roll on Little Guy!! :) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/15/17 at 17:41:18 47606161796C150 wrote:
Forks have been lowered 100mm. Rear remains stock. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/16/17 at 09:19:04 Ellaspede has a lot of parts at their disposal, and they smartly sourced parts for their DRZ build from their own parts bin. I have leeway. There are a few area’s that I may part ways with Leo’s design. One of them is the instrument gauge. Leo used a very nice Daytona Velona Speedometer that Ellaspede sells. It’s simple and fits well with the design. Leo created a custom indicator below the gauge for the turn signal indicators, neutral indicator and water temperature warning (all of these signals are prewired into the DRZ wiring harness). Missing on the Ellaspede bike is a tachometer, and I definitely want a tach on my bike. I did some searching for an integrated speedo/tach and there are dozens available, but I instantly fell in love with the Acewell 6000 series. Dime City Cycles carries this brand in the US and I purchased a 6502 model. This model has a 12,000 rpm tachometer and connections for turn signals, neutral light, high beam, water temp and hazard light/flasher. I also purchased an accessory sensor for the speedo that connects to the speedo cable location in the hub. This way I won’t have to fool around with mounting the included hall-effect sensor in the brake rotor. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2714_zpsbtcya0iz.jpg It’s a lot of wires, but they should hide well in a large 7” headlight bucket. It really is a complete kit and I look forward to installing it. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2715_zpsvd4frdqh.jpg |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 01/16/17 at 09:22:33 The Suzuki looks way better than that Kawasaki brat tracker. Had my tracker out doing some tuning blasting round town when I was heading out of town was trying to hold throttle steady at 80 mph this Camaro was along side like he wanted to race when I realized he was just checking the bike out. It's so hard to keep a steady rpm in the up right position gonna have to try the flat track tuck position next time out ! |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Dave on 01/16/17 at 10:23:51 The Tracker that you are using as a model has a nice looking rear end - I just can't get excited about the current trend of having the seat that just hangs out over the rear tire. I know this is partly because the monoshock doesn't provide a pair of shocks to connect the swing arm to the seat frame - but the bike just doesn't look finished (to me), when it just has a seat slab! http://i67.tinypic.com/2wfir13.jpg |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Kenny G on 01/16/17 at 10:44:47 Dave, What I don't like about bikes without rear fenders and the seat stuck up in the air is that it reminds me of the snobs when I was a kid. All the good kids had Schwinn or Columbia bikes and the snobs had English bikes with skinny tires. The Raleigh was most popular among the rich kids and they always had the seat up as high as it would go. We called them "Ass-High Riders". We hated them.... Kenny G :-/ |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 01/16/17 at 12:13:30 I'm with you there Dave I like that bit of bodywork at the rear to put the taillight , I've always been fond of traditional flat track designs. Not to fond of the brat trackers and the long flat seat. To each his own ! |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/17/17 at 06:14:31 I agree with you guys, the tail piece is an important design element of this bike. I also agree that a fender/tail piece gives a bike a finished look. Ellaspede’s DRZ Street Tracker has a very unique tail section. It flows well with the body line with no hump in the back. Being flush with seat top it does not create additional lines for the eye to follow. Further, it includes an enclosed seat pan where the bikes electronics and battery are housed. It’s very neat and tidy. I’ve done some research to see if I could find a similar seat pan. So far – no good. So in the event I can’t source (or afford) the tail piece from Ellaspede I’ve been looking for alternatives. I kind of like this one: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/images/seats/dts6contact.jpg It does have a street tracker hump but its small size makes it a good fit. It can be purchased with an accessory undertray so I could create a battery box and electronics bay. At $104 for the seat pan and $45 for the seat pan it’s economical too. I’m 99.99% sure that I could easily make an undertray on my small tabletop brake too – it’s just some simple bends and some AN426 flush rivits. But the DTS6 is not the same as the unit designed by Leo Yip. The Ellaspede design is nice and flat which doesn’t disturb the continuous line of the bike from front to back. A traditional Tracker seat pan has an upward flair/turn at the tail end – and I think it would disturb and detract from the look of the bike. I contacted Leo in late December to see if Ellaspede had developed a kit for the DRZ. The parts of primary interest to me are the tail section, fork brace and the radiator relocation brackets. I also asked if he’d be willing to share any details of the build. He got back to me and advised that they are developing some kit parts for the DRZ, but hadn’t released any yet. Parts would include the tail and fork brace. We have had subsequent email exchanges where we discussed custom fabrication of these parts, but I agreed to be patient and wait for the kit parts. He was also kind enough to share some details on the suspension modifications which I will detail when I modify the suspension. So far Leo has been forthcoming with info and if he keeps his schedule, I should have a tail section for this build by early summer. Otherwise I’ll have to cobble something together from Airtech-Streamlining. I hate fiberglass work, but if I have too I could modify that DTS6 seat pan to eliminate the rearward upturn and flatten out the seating area. Or, just come to accept it. Another idea that I’ve thought about is improvising a tail piece from something else. For example, a quick look on eBay pointed me to a seat cowl from a CBR600. This cover actually has nice lines, and with a little fabrication work I think I could make side panels for it to integrate it into a metal undertray. Best of all, it’s only $25. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/CBR600RR%20Seat%20Cowl_zpsdub5trey.jpg The other way to create a tail section/seat cowl would be to render a design in a 3D CAD file and have it printed. The more I think about it, the more I like this option…but a bolt-on kit sure would be easy. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Dave on 01/17/17 at 06:26:11 These two companies have some low profile options in fiberglass. The nice thing about fiberglass....is that you can cut and add on pieces/mounts if you want to. I added a tail light mount, and made a storage bin under the rear hump on my Cafe' bike. http://www.hotwingglass.com/index.html http://gftpstore.com/Seats_c6.htm |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by LANCER on 01/17/17 at 08:44:05 I like some of these. http://www.legendary-motorcycles.com/index.html |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 01/22/17 at 07:02:43 Gary, I like your CBR600 (or similar) idea better than a traditional cafe or tracker seat. It's a more modern presentation and fits the personality of the DRZ better. I mean you've got a single shock and radiators! The old tanks fits, a traditional cafe/tracker tail doesn't. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/04/17 at 17:15:58 So I reached this stage of the project: http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2770_zpsa5k9ujha.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2769_zpsdsvtnr0q.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2771_zpsd8wdvou0.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2772_zpsjk8rdjte.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2767_zpsin4qksr1.jpg I need to get this all under the pressure washer and take a good look at everything, but on initial review this bike is in excellent condition. Don't let the dirt fool you, this bike was well cared for. Everything on this on this bike was properly torqued, greased and the previous owner went through the trouble to install grease zerks on the swingarm and steering head. If I can get everything cleaned up in its current state, I probably will not tear down the frame any further. I really don't see the need to unpack the wiring harness and risk making more of a project than necessary. I need to disasseble the wheels, clean up the hubs and relace the wheels for 18" rims. I'm going to simply move the rear 18x2.15 to the front and purchase an 18x3.50 for the rear. The rear hub looks like it may not respond to cleaning...I'll know more once I get it all apart. Here's something funny; the box of parts to sell/not use: http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2773_zpshqqnhc24.jpg Is larger/fuller than the box of parts to clean and reuse: http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2774_zpsijcrea13.jpg |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Dave on 02/06/17 at 04:07:01 You got a lot done - glad the bike is dirty but cared for mechanically. Do the hubs have the same diameter at the place where the spokes mount on the hub.....can you use the back spokes on the front? Good choice on the 3.50-18 rear rim......that is what it takes to use the modern tire sizes properly. Maybe you could powder coat the hubs if the back one won't clean up. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/06/17 at 05:44:01 457E7364757962647F777A65160 wrote:
That's exactly why I'm posting this build on this site...it's full of smart people willing to offer good advice. Dave, I hadn't given any thought to powder coating the hubs...but of course that's an excellent option. Not sure if the spoke centers are the same front to rear, but I will check. I'm fairly certain that the spoke diameters are different, that in and of itself may preclude me from using the rear spokes on the front. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by xaman on 02/19/17 at 09:03:31 Have any thoughts on this deal? https://neworleans.craigslist.org/mcy/6009275623.html I've been hunting for a DR650 but ran across this ... I'm thinking scrambler type build. I don't know near as much about the DRZ, what kind of questions would you be asking beyond the obvious? |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/19/17 at 16:12:39 Given the nature of the damage to that bike, I would have to think that the steering head is bent. In addition to needing a new frame or significant welding, the forks are bent. If you know someone that can weld, that bike could be back on the road with little effort. I would replace the usd forks for the 400S or E forks that are almost exactly the same as the SM, but sell for a fraction of the price. The value of that bike is every thing behind the steering head. For something that you want to transform, it's not so bad. If the steering head isn't bent, that's a good starting point. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by xaman on 02/19/17 at 16:37:32 Thanks for taking time to respond. I'll let you know if it ends up in my garage :) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 02/20/17 at 06:12:47 The frame is usually the last and least likely part to sustain damage on a off road motorcycles. Not saying there is no way it's bent, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's not as bad as is looks. I'd snag that thing up if it were local to me. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/07/17 at 08:29:41 A couple of things up front: 1. I don't have any photoshop skills. This image is cobbled together in powerpoint just to see how things could fit together. 2. The wrong bike is used in this image (it's a supermoto DRZ), but it's the best stripped to the frame image I can find. The forks are wrong (USD) and there's no way to lower the front (rasie the forks) in the image. I'm not sure that I will lower the front anyway because it makes the steering rake too steep and reduces the amount of usable fuel in the tank. 3. Tires are low profile 17's, not the high aspect ratio 18's that will be on the bike. So they look small, because they are. With that said, I've been playing with a few ideas. One is the seat. I think there is an opportunity to use the stock seat and fender. In the image the seat has been cut 3-4 inches from where it begins its up-sweep that follows the fuel tank. I believe that the forward part of the seat can be retained (it has the slot that attaches to the frame) because the tank will sit on top of that flat section. This will allow me to make a simple bracket to attach the rear part of the tank to the frame/seat. A new seat cushion can be made that provides a little up-sweep to match the profile where it meets the tank. I also think I can use an OEM rear fender, cut down to the shape and size I want. I'll experiment with the faded fender that came with the bike and if I can get it to where I want it, I'll buy a new fender and replicate the modification. In the image, the gray area under the seat represents the undertray that houses all of the bikes electronics (just like on the Ellaspede bike). This will be formed with 0.040 2024-T3 aluminum, flush riveted with solid rivets and sealed. Finally, rather then relocate the two OEM radiators like Ellaspede did, I'm going to replace the two radiators with a single one as shown in Dave's post of Jan 16th. I've seen this done on several DRZ conversions. I've done a lot of research on this radiator and it appears to be from a '08-'11 KFX450R ATV. It has the right capacity and measures 12w x 8.25h x 1.62d. I can buy a new unit from Feeda Cooling (pn SW039) for $65 and sell my OEM units for over $100. This is a much easier solution to integrate as it only requires the fabrication of two support brackets. It also has much easier plumbing. The Ellaspede solution is actually quite complex. Leo had to fabricate a filler block and I think it sits a bit too low - potentially causing a restriction in the lower (pump) line. The radiator relocation is necessary because the exhaust header pipe and space claim of the metal fuel tank. My wheel hubs are back from powder coating (thanks for the idea Dave) and I received my rims and spokes from Buchanan yesterday. I'll post some photos as they come together. With a plan now in place, I do believe this will be a fast build. I just need to get my cafe racer off the build stand. I painted the frame and sent the swingarm and all of my fabricated brackets out for powder coating when the DRZ wheel hubs were done. All of these parts should all come together this weekend....but the painter is on his own schedule. Hopefully it will be back together this month. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/07/17 at 18:10:43 This posting has been deleted by its author. Ooopsies. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/18/17 at 11:48:08 OK, this part of the project was so easy it made me angry - angry that I've paid to have this done in the past. I sent my wheel hubs out for powder coating. They looked terrible and quite frankly I was going to replace them, but Dave suggested powder coating. I was having parts for my cafe racer done, so I figured why not give it a try. Cost for powder coating - $30 for both (including degreasing and media blasting). They came out great and it sure was a lot less expensive then replacement hubs. It also committed me to black wheels because the reason they were so inexpensive to coat was I was already having parts coated black. So I watched a few videos on youtube about building and truing wheels and thought "I can do that". I got myself a wheel stand for $40 and a spoke wrench for $10 and I was on my way. The hoops and spoke kit came from Buchanan's. I also replaced the wheel bearing because 1) they wouldn't survive the powder costing process and 2) in one of the videos I watched the builder said if you have worn bearings, you'll never get the wheels trued. First photo, getting ready. I cut a few spacers so the hoops were always centered on the hub. The front hub measured 4.25" and the rim is 3.00" wide on the outside (2.15" inside) so I made 0.625" spacers for that wheel and the rear hub measured 6.50" and the rim is 4.25" (3.50 inside) so that got 1.125" spacers. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2836_zpso41njqvy.jpg This is a photo of the fist side of the front wheel complete. It took a bit of trial and error to figure out how it all went together but once I discovered how the parts worked together, I was amazed how fast it went together. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2837_zpsgujn58ws.jpg Front wheel assembled. About 30 minutes. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2838_zps6uqpnbx8.jpg Rear at the half-way point: http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2839_zpsjgjd9twr.jpg Rear complete - 15 minutes total work. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2840_zpsimtoyb1y.jpg Both together. What you can't see is the big smile on my face. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2841_zpsr1flxava.jpg |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 03/18/17 at 12:32:57 Nice job Gary ! I don't mind lacing a wheel , but I hate trueing them. I take them to a guy , that's all he does. If you need custom stuff made he is the guy to see |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Kenny G on 03/18/17 at 13:42:37 Gary, The spacer idea to keep the hub centered is really good to get started. I wish I would have thought of that before I ever did my first wheel. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 03/18/17 at 19:41:23 Nice |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/22/17 at 06:01:30 I spent an hour on each of the last three nights truing the front wheel. Using a dial gauge I was able to get 0 lateral run out. The dial gauge makes this easy (but time consuming) because it points to the spoke that needs adjusting. I'm disappointed with my radial run out result. I'm around 0.032" to 0.040" of extension (I didn't put the dial on this, just eyeballed) on about 20-25 degrees of the rim. I've got the spokes about as tight as I can get them in this section, and loosing the opposite side didn't do anything to fix it. Any suggestions? Will I even feel this? From what I've read this morning 1/32" is acceptable, and I might actually be there. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Kenny G on 03/22/17 at 06:32:46 Gary, The best guy that I have ever known for lacing a wheel was Ray Texter at Lancaster Harley Davidson. Tex always checked the wheel for radial run out before he started adding spokes. If the wheel is out of round before you start it is all but impossible to pull it into being round. The lateral run out can be easily corrected. It is always possible that the hub is not bored to be 100% round either. The few wheels that I laced I could never get 100% round. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/22/17 at 06:44:04 Id try loosening every spoke Not involved in the section that is being difficult. If you're looking at a 90* arc that won't suck down and the measurement is somewhere between .025 & .040", across 90*, seems like giving it .010" slack across the 270* would give it a place to go. The same adjustment for each spoke. I put wire on a board and rotated the rim past it, checking run out and wobble at the same time. Some rims, no spokes, just laying on the floor, are not very nice looking. Look at the threads above the nipples. If you're straining to adjust or its screeching and hopping, you're getting too tight. Or they are too dry. Watch the spokes and see if you are twisting the spokes. Just a dot from a Sharpee will make it easy. . a drop of oil can be your friend or make it easy to get it Krazee Tight. I never Needed to get violent with the ten speed rims, but if the Bump doesn't wanna lay down and you've given it a place to go and tightened the spokes in that arc, I don't see why a piece of wood down in the valley and a few quick raps with a hammer would be a problem. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Dave on 03/22/17 at 06:49:02 I believe that you need to work the radial runout first...while the spokes are still relatively loose. Then when that is within range you start working on truing the wheel left/right as you snug up the spokes. I am somewhat of a NOOB to doing wheels....and each one takes me a very long time. It is kind of relaxing and therapeutic at first....then frustrating as the hours drag on. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 03/22/17 at 08:17:08 I agree with Dave on all accounts (again?!?! lol). I've built a few MTB wheels when I was younger and did the 18" wheel on my Savage. It's both therapeutic and frustrating at the same time. I think it's a black art that just takes experience. I found the motorcycle wheel to be a little easier. Bicycle rims move around a lot compared to the heavier MC wheel. Honestly, I didn't use a dial indicator and never balanced my wheels after I put tires on. I used a zip tie or spoke as an indicator and was able to get it almost "naked eye" perfect. But, I'm sure my wheels are not perfect and I can't even tell. I even got the bike up to 80 mph once! lol Use your gut. If go with what you have and it turns out your runout is too much, then try again. We call that refactoring in the programming world and I do it every day at work. Refactoring, refactoring, refactoring....eventually you get something that works pretty well and you learn a lot along the way. :) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/27/17 at 08:31:07 My runout is 0.043" on the front wheel. I'm gonna loosen the spokes and give it another go. I rewatched a few videos and I missed a fine point. The spokes should be tightened in a similar manner in which they were installed; i.e tighten (1/4 turn at a time) the outer spokes on one side, then the outer on the other, then the inner on one side switching to the other. Repeat as necessary. Also, I learned that it is much easier to tighten/adjust the spokes if they have been lubricated. Mine are dry. Buchanan's includes a liquid graphite lube with the rims...I thought it was touch-up paint. The lube also keeps the nipples from corroding. I'll work on radial runout first as suggested because through this first attempt I did learn that it is very easy to correct lateral runout. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Dave on 03/27/17 at 09:59:08 Gary: I also found out that you should not start your tightening at the same point each time around. I was using the valve stem as a reference point, and I started the sequence at the valve stem each time. This tended to pull the rim in the direction where you first started the sequence. I had better luck when I would begin the sequence at 1/4 way around the rim intervals. I would use a piece of tape as the reference, and each time I went all the way around with my tightening - I would move 1/4 of the way around the rim to start the next tightening phase. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 03/28/17 at 09:53:25 Nice tips. I'm sure you'll nail them the second time around. I'm not expert but taking it slow seems to be the key for us rookies. I had a set of MTB wheels built by guy I trusted once years ago (because I never trusted myself!). He ran a shop that did a big mail order business during the 90s about an hour from my house. He said go grab lunch and I'll build them up for you real quick. I came back a half an hour later and he was just finishing up the second wheel. Amazing how fast he was and those wheels ran true for almost 10 years before I sold them. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/07/17 at 06:31:05 Wow, what a learning experience. I actually lost count of how many times I loosened the spokes and re-started the process. It was at least 6 times - each time learning something new. I'll post a few tips here for anyone that is truing a wheel for the first time. It is really an easy process - once one comes to the realization that one input requires 3 counter inputs. My front rim was challenging because it was darn-near defective. It had a natural hop across 90-120 degrees or rotation of 0.10". I called Buchanan's to see if they'd swap it out but Jim Buchanan said that a good wheel guy would be able to eliminate it. So I had two choices; send it back with the hub and have them true it (which would cost me over $100 with shipping) - or - become a good wheel guy. Here was the winning technique: 1. Lube the nipples with the supplied graphite lube or use never seize. This step can not be overlooked. 2. Get the nipples finger tight and place the wheel assembly on a wheel stand. 3. Get the spokes to a similar length, maybe two threads exposed, maybe where the threads end - just do something consistent for all 36 spokes. 4. Set up a pointer and spin the wheel. This is your opportunity to see what natural problems you will have to correct. On one side of the rim put tape down on the rim on the section that has radial runout (hop) that needs to be corrected; on the other side place small pieces of tape with a left or right arrow that indicate the direction it needs to move to correct lateral runout. If you don't get it now, you probably wont get it correct at the 3rd or 4th round of tightening. When going through successive rounds of tightening you'll want to be aware of the natural problem areas, especially hop. 5. Make 1/4 turns in the area that need to move. You HAVE TO loosen the opposite spoke. This is true for both lateral and radial runout. You can't just keep tightening - if you do you'll get runout that looks like an "S" with a twist in the rim. Once you see that - start over. 6. Repeat step 5 about 4 or 5 times. From here it is my opinion that a spoke torque wrench is required. In talking to Jim Buchanan he said that I should shoot for 60 in-lbs - the more torque the better - but too much will snap spokes and potentially damage the hub. A friend let me use his spoke torque wrench and I don't think I could have gotten this properly done without it. With a torque wrench you can initially set it for 40 in-lbs to get you "in the zone". From there you can increase it to 50 in-lbs and for the final round set it for 60 in-lbs. 7. For the final two rounds of tightening I used a dial gauge. I wanted to be +/- 0.001" lateral and 0.020" radial - which is a tedious process - but worth the effort, especially on a front wheel. Here is where radial runout can drive you nuts. The side of the rim where the dial gauge reads is not vertical, it has about 15 degrees of angle. If you have any wheel hop it will appear as lateral runout on the dial gauge. That's why wheel hop has to be corrected as early as possible. Your dial gauge will tell you that the wheel is perfect, yet when you spin it you'll see lateral runout. 8. A lot of the videos I saw online said to do a final torque round to make sure all spokes are (equally) tight. I tried this on several of my failed attempts and I think it's a dumb suggestion. Once the dial indicator says that the wheel is true, ANY movement will create a cascading change in the rim. When the dial indicator isn't moving (beyond your goal range), the resulting torque is the resulting torque. You're done. Because I had so much hop in my wheel I have spokes that are at 60 in-lbs and some that are around 40 in-lb - maybe less. Any effort to correct this reintroduces hop. On the final round of tightening, go slowly from spoke to spoke, and the dial gauge will tell you the exact requirement for the individual spoke. If on a right-side spoke the needle moves right of center you need to bring the rim right by tightening that spoke and loosening the two spokes besides it (they would be left side spokes). Now you need to recheck the spokes you just loosened - and so on and so forth. My rear rim is now in the stand and my initial spin shows that it's in much better shape then the front. I'm 99.9% certain with my new found skills I can get this one correct on one try. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by verslagen1 on 04/07/17 at 08:01:20 This looks good enough to be a tech post. ;) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 04/07/17 at 10:45:43 Good work and great instructions. Be sure to check the spokes after you ride it. You may find that some of those spoke tensions even out and need minor adjustments. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/08/17 at 10:30:14 To me, the Big Nugget is in number seven. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/26/17 at 19:08:35 With my cafe racer off my work bench, it's time to get serious about the Street Tracker. I've been slowly assembling it a few nights a week. This Monday I took a crack at installing the fuel tank. I thought this would be a simple affair, much like what I've seen done on this forum several times. Not so lucky. On my initial fit I discovered that the tabs that hold the tank mount cushions were narrower then the frame itself. I thought about this for a few days and even started a thread in the Cafe to solicit solutions. Over the last few days I thought of several ways to mount the tank, but all of them had something about them that I didn't like. According to my measurements and calculations, this tank will just barely fit. Oh, to complicate it - there didn't appear to be room to have the fuel petcock clear the frame. While running today all I could think about was this tank. And a simple thought came to my head. So simple that I actually started to laugh out loud. Photo time: There are actually two tank mount systems on the DRZ frame. Top center you can see that there are cushion mounts. These fall just below the tank and are therefore useless. Moreover, they are 3.6" wide and the tank is 3.2" wide at this location. Ahead of that to the right is the mount that the tank that came on the bike used. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2952_zpsnazx6pqc.jpg My first step tonight was to remove the original cushion receivers from my pristine 40 year-old tank. It took me about an hour to actually start the grinding as I really didn't want to mess up my tank. Once started it took about 30 minutes to completely eliminate the mounts. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2943_zpsgsgmer8y.jpg Here is a photo of the tank in position and the location of the tank mount. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2946_zpslt1ijh71.jpg Here is a photo of the tank mount from the DRZ tank in a vertical position. You can see that all I need to do is weld an "L" bracket to the bottom of the tank and attach the tank mount to this. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2954_zpswjmbztef.jpg Here's an oddity. That tank mount is only on the right side of the frame - even though there were left and right mounts on the tank itself. Here is a photo of the left side. No mount and no indication that there ever was a mount. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2951_zpsj5mowxae.jpg I purchased a NOS fuel valve for this tank. It's quite large - and doesn't fit in the small space in the frame where the petcock is located. Raptor to the rescue - it's a perfect fit! Zero extra room. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2956_zpsh3pjd4cx.jpg Here is the status of the project as of tonight. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2955_zpsnqtn3czi.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2945_zpscxsw4fqe.jpg |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 05/26/17 at 20:47:44 Awsome Gary , I hope it's as fast as it looks. Tank looks great ! More pics. Trackers are straight motorcycle porn. Can't wait to see it finished. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 05/27/17 at 04:28:33 Love it so far. Nice work on the wheels. Too bad you have to hang a radiator on it. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/27/17 at 06:42:11 I've never seen a stone for a die grinder so big. Its a mini bench grinder.. I want one.. but, probably never happen. Be careful with it. Bang it, get a tiny , invisible crack, and at about ten thousand RPM that thing disintegrates.. Dude could get a lump on his head. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/27/17 at 16:30:52 594640475A5D6C5C6C54464A01330 wrote:
It's a 3M Scotchbrite wheel. I have them in 1" and 3" for the pneumatic grinder and I keep a 6" on the bench grinder. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/27/17 at 16:56:13 I made some more progress today. I was hoping to use the Ellaspeed seat pan on this project, but it's not available, at least not now. So I'm going to go forward with my plan B. If in the future the Ellaspeed kit is available, and I hate the result of my plan B, then I'll swap it out. Plan B is free...so that's a good place to start. So what is plan B you ask? Plan B is removing the vertical section of the DRZ seat and removing most of the stock rear fender. Here is the seat with a notch cut out http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2962_zps6rzg0tfu.jpg And the remaining section. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2961_zpsmk6jg5zl.jpg As you can see, this seat was in rough condition, so I have nothing to lose by cutting it up. Here is the bike with the seat in position and the rear fender (not yet modified). The seat still needs to be shaped and I need to get some aluminum "T" sections to created side fairings to hide the sub-frame and integrate the seat & fender. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2957_zpskkruibpr.jpg With the tank installed and the head pipe in place, I had an opportunity to look at my options for the radiators. In several articles I read about the inspiration bike, Leo Yip mentioned that fitting the radiators was the hardest part of the build. With this in mind I have been planning several alternative methods to attach a radiator. It turns out the KXF450 single radiator would fit if I mounted it to the front of the frame. I know this because I built an virtual radiator out of cardboard. But after confirming that the KXF unit would fit, I decided to see what was so out of whack that Leo had to relocate the left and right radiators. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2958_zpsqhcfr20u.jpg As you can see in the photo above, the tube/hose that connects the left and right sides of the radiator (by passing through the frame) wants to go through the front of the fuel tank. Other than that - they fit. They clear the lower edge of the tank and the exhaust header pipe. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2960_zpss43vnqgs.jpg So I started thinking - why not just bring the radiators to a shop and have the inner connections rotated so the are vertical like the outer one? http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2959_zpsix1yj7y0.jpg I'll bring the radiators to a race shop I know and see if this is possible. If so, what I was expecting to be hard may just be quite easy. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by xaman on 05/28/17 at 06:57:55 Nice! I think that seat just might work for you, not bad at all, good idea. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 05/28/17 at 08:27:15 It's taking a shape nicely. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/30/17 at 05:44:23 I was fitting up the exhaust and ran into a minor snag. BTW, that Yosh RS4 is a real fine system - heavy as heck - but does it look pretty. Anyway, I was following the supplied directions when I came across this line: "install the left and right brackets in the location of the passenger foot pegs" Passenger what? I don't have passenger foot pegs - nor the brackets to attach said foot pegs (or the exhaust hangars for that matter). More fabrication, grinding and welding. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2969_zpsuyyndkvn.jpg In the above photo I have the brackets "stuck on" random brackets, but I was able to make some nice "foot peg" brackets out of some spare 0.1875" 2024-T3 aluminum I had. Having the opportunity to look at the bike, I think I have a solution for the tail section. I've marked the rear fender for trimming and I think I have side panels figured out. As soon as I have the tank/seat/tail bolted down into is final resting place I can build the electronics box under the seat and start wiring this thing up. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Tocsik on 05/30/17 at 07:58:32 This is looking soooo nice! Do you have plans for some sort of tire hugger or some way to keep the rear tire from throwing crap all over the monoshock and the rest of that area? |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 05/30/17 at 08:57:29 I may weld some tabs on the swingarm so I can mount an inner fender from a dirtbike. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by LANCER on 05/31/17 at 06:08:38 Yep, you need a bit of something in the gapping hole above the rear tire and the bottom of the seat. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Hamman on 05/31/17 at 08:49:38 Gary, SUPER COOL BUILD! I want to build a modern, vintage tracker/motard bike in the next few months! This has really lit the fire now. Cannot wait to see the outcome! ;) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 07/12/17 at 09:44:58 Any progress? Are you going to fix the pics? Don't leave us hanging (like Arman does, can someone sneak over there and get some pics?!) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/12/17 at 13:25:07 797E7F797B796279160 wrote:
I will fix the pictures, and add more as soon as I find a new web host. I've been plugging away at the air box and seat under tray. Turns out the Ellasped build just had the air filter stuck on to the boot. That's a solution for photos, not for riding. I've cut up the OEM air box and now I'm integrating the filter hold bar to the under tray. The filter hold bars were part of the sides of the OEM airbox...and I only kept the part where the filter mounts to the boot. It will make sense when I get some photos up The tank, seat, fender, under tray and side panels all have to work as a system, so a change in one results in a change in some of the others (the tank and seat are fixed...can't move). Wiring is roughed in, as is the radiator. I'm actually getting close to riding it. I have a few days off in mid-July so I'm quite sure I'll be riding it soon. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 06:00:22 I took a few days off to give myself a little staycation. I was hoping to have the DRZ Tracker done, but I think I still need an hour or two of work to get it ride-able. Everything that has to be fabricated has been fabricated. Everything that has to be modified has been modified. The bike has been completely assembled but right now it looks like it has puked-up the wiring harness. The bundle of wires at the front of the bike is just too darn thick - so I've ripped the main harness apart in attempt to reduce its girth. Here are some photo...one at a time. This first photo is me mocking up the brackets for the new radiator. The original radiators (a split system) wanted to share the same space at the new fuel tank. I decided to ditch the split system and go with a single radiator. Doing some research I found a perfect solution from a Suzuki LTZ400 quad. The nice thing about this solution is that the LTZ400 uses the same engine as the DRZ plus it has 20% more capacity. It took a lot of precise measurements, but it fits. I was able to even reuse the existing radiator hoses with a simple modification. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 06:06:59 This photo is my under tray that will house the battery, engine ECU, starter solenoid and the rear section of the harness. I bent it out of 0.032 2024-T3. It supports the upper bracket for the air cleaner holder, a rear fender support and the front seat hold down. This little bugger in an integral part of this build. It's very tight on space - so tight that I had to mount the ECU to the bottom of the seat because there just wasn't enough room to squeeze everything onto the surface. With the ECU relocated it's a perfect fit. Once I get the wiring harness sorted out I'll post a photo of how it all fits together. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 06:08:35 This photo is the fabrication of the rear tank mount. The front mounts have been welded onto the tank and this mount got welded onto the rear sub-frame. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 06:09:17 Here it is with the OEM cushions. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 06:10:34 Here is a photo of what I'm dealing with now. This is the forward harness |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 06:11:03 And here is the rear part of the harness |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 06:14:43 And this is what it looked like when I took a dinner break last night. Once I get the harness sorted out, all I have to do is attach the tank and seat - about 5 minutes of work. All of the fluids are fresh and the battery is ready to do its job. I'll ride it without the side panels for the summer because I'm not sure of the direction I want to take with them yet. Also, until I have an opportunity to shake it down, no paint. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 07/19/17 at 06:49:48 Looking good. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by LANCER on 07/19/17 at 13:27:21 Love the wiring harness, looks a lot like mine, only mine is pretty much complete and still looks a lot like that. Maybe I should just squeeze it together and zip tie it. [ch128513] |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/19/17 at 18:26:00 I got some work done on the harness tonight. I think it will fit in the tunnel between the tank and the upper frame. It's gonna be tight at the front of the tank, but I'll make it work. Big moment tonight - I started the bike. It started right up and the exhaust sounds perfect. I think now is a good time to get the seat finished. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by LANCER on 07/21/17 at 02:57:33 Gary, how old are you ? Just curious. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/22/17 at 04:25:44 Old enough to know better. 54 |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by verslagen1 on 07/22/17 at 08:28:28 363C38323930343D636561510 wrote:
young enough to do it anyway 8-) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Hamman on 07/23/17 at 08:08:26 Ahhhh, electrical. My favorite :) We just wrapped up a 2013 Triumph Bonneville that I completely tucked and re-did the entire harness along with all the EFI stuff and the GIANT Triumph ECU. Looking good Gary! Can't wait to see some final shots! |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:04:36 So I got to ride the bike today. Not for long, but I'll get to that. First, the bike isn't done. It's functionally complete but far from done. I still need to make my side panels, cut-off unused brackets and then paint. Right now it's in that ugly but rideable stage. I went through this stage with my airplane and cafe racer. It sucks, but for the first 6-12 months there will be changes. Here's a photo of the bike just before start up: |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:11:17 Start up didn't go smooth. I've got an electrical gremlin. I think there's a bad connector at the starter solenoid. If I play with the connector I can get the bike to start. Another photo. I ended using a dual headlight. I had a 7" on there, but the forks are so far apart that the billet brackets that I purchased couldn't come together close enough AND keep the directionals in alignment. The are very stiff and can't really be bent into position. I paid $70 for the brackets and didn't want to chance damaging them trying to bend them. So I decided to go with the dual lights. These are 9-1/2 inches apart and keep the directionals facing forward. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:13:45 Like I mentioned, I need to make the side panels still. That should tie this thing together. I also ordered a yellow fender, this way when I paint I will only need to paint the top side. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:16:14 Finally off the work bench, a view from the riders perspective. First, this bike is absurdly narrow. The tank is only 7 inches wide and the seat just 6. The bike is also absurdly tall. I'm 6'1" and I can't flat foot this thing. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:18:26 Here is a shot from the side of the road. Not that I wanted to take a photo from the side of the road - but this is where it died and while I waited for my son to arrive with my pick-up truck I decided I'd take a few photos. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:21:52 I rode the bike up and down my driveway a few times and brought it back to the garage to check for leaks and the like. With everything looking good I grabbed my helmet and decided to go for a short ride. I was about 4-5 miles into the ride when I noticed that the electronic gauges blanked out. I thought to myself "this ain't good, time to head home" and as soon as I turned around the bike sputtered and died. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:24:59 So either the charging isn't working or it can't keep up. I purchased two LED H4 replacement bulbs because I knew with two 55w headlight bulbs I was beyond the charge capacity of the system. I haven't swapped out the bulbs yet. My next move is to check the charging system with the headlights disconnected to see if its working or not. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/17 at 17:38:46 Here is a photo of my son and the unceremonial trip back home the bike had in the back of the truck. My initial thoughts after my brief ride: - I need to get a front fender on this thing ASAP. It's kicking up stuff and driving it right into the radiator. This wouldn't be such a big deal if I still had the OEM split system, but with the single radiator it's only a matter of time before something goes flying through the center of it. - I'm a form over function type of person, but for this build I made some cosmetic choices that I knew would not yield the best performance. The front tire was one such choice. With the 130/80-18 rear tire I should have used a 90/90-18 or 100/80-18 front. But to keep the front and rear diameters the same I'm running a 110/90-18 front. That's a big front tire, and as a result the turn-in is a little slow and the steering effort is a little on the high side. I'll see how I feel about this in time. The turn-in and steering effort is very similar to my FZ-06, but not as light as I'm use to with a dirtbike frame. I've been riding dirtbikes for 40 years so it's just a little odd right now. - The seat is very comfortable. Given how much material I removed from the OEM seat, it was a welcome surprise. - The intake / filter was another compromise of looks vs. function. The bike may have a minor part throttle lean surge and a few WOT runs from mid throttle resulted in a major bog. But this was done about 1/2 mile to a mile before the battery died so the poor response could have just been a lack of voltage. I can't wait to sort out the electrical gremlins and get this bike back on the road. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 07/31/17 at 11:41:26 The only thing worse than having to truck it home is having to push it home! (I had a 78 RM125 that I had to do both with way too many times.) Hopefully you'll get the bugs sorted out quickly. Aesthetically, I think I would cut the lowers on the rear subframe and drop the tail a little bit work on the lines of the seat/tank. You may need to raise the rear tank slightly. http://https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-35FZAyMMGwQ/V_PAraRfNLI/AAAAAAAADmk/qdwF7xgjBbY3-3ZhEbXgMFFU4W6LjjwBgCLcB/s1600/Ellaspede-DRZ400-1-of-13%255B1%255D.jpg |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/31/17 at 12:32:12 Yeah, Leo has some trickery going on there. The seat and sides of the tail kit extend lower then the subframe. Plus he dropped the forks 4" because he's height challenged. The side fairing that I need to make will make the seat/tank/tail intersection appear as a straight line. Right now everything is above the subframe. The side panel will make it appear as though it's all below the frame. I got the electrical gremlins exercised from the starting system last night (frayed wire in the solenoid harness). I also moved the ECU to a different location (the underside of the seat tray) to create more room/less stress on the wires in the electrical box. With the headlights diconnected the charging system is within spec, so I think my dead battery was due to running two head lights. LED's to the rescue. I should have the front fender installed this week. I also have to program the gauge cluster. That might be the hardest part of the build :) |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 08/02/17 at 05:52:01 I went through my electrical system last night. First I checked the conductivity of the stator coils. This is done by checking each of the three yellow wires to ground - no continuity is good and that's what I had. Then I checked for continuity between the legs of the stator coils. All was good there. I started the bike and checked the voltage at each stator coil. Suzuki calls for 60-80VAC at 5,000 rpm and i was showing 68 to 70 VAC - so far so good. I removed the regulator/rectifier to test the internal diodes. Problem found. One of the two leads on the regulator has a blown diode. During this process I also discovered that my starter solenoid is finicky - it has to be sitting just right in its holder to engage - so that's getting replaced too. When I get my new R/R I think I'm going to hot-wire the outputs directly to the battery. Apparently this is a known improvement for the DRZ and it improves voltage to the battery by 0.5 to 1.0 VDC. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 08/10/17 at 19:33:12 I've ridden the Street Trcker a few times this week. The first two rides were only about 10 miles each followed by an inspection. Basic shake-down runs. But tonight I ventured to some of my favorite twisty roads to really get a feel for the bike. Here are my observations: This thing vibrates like something that may be stored next to lonely woman's bed. It vibrates at idle. It vibrates under heavy and light loads. I think it vibrates when it's in the garage and I'm away. Sure the Savage vibrates, but it builds in a linear fashion. So ridden on a flat straight road, the Tracker is quite uninteresting. This all changes on a twisty road. All is forgiven and forgotten. Turning is this bikes forte. Turning is its element. Holy crap is this thing fun. It begs to be hoon-ridden. I had an urge to wheelie out of every turn. And then the road straightens out again. The bike is no where near dialed in yet. The jetting is off. There is a major lean bog from a cruise throttle setting to WOT (no surprise since I removed the air box) and there is a minor lean surge at partial throttle. The previous owner weighed about 100-125 pounds more then me, and currently the bike is sprung for him and not me. So the ride is rough - and this bike should be crazy plush. I think once I get these items corrected my straight road opinion will change. Other observations: I really like the Acewell gauge and would highly recommend it. There is so much information available, and that is very helpful while shaking down a new bike. And there are hi/low alerts for temperature, voltage and even speed (if you want to set that). There is also a big shift light that starts flashing 500 rpm prior to redline. My radiator solution is working perfectly. I'm not running a thermostat and water temperature is running around 165. With this knowledge I feel comfortable putting a thermostat in. The RS-4 exhaust is perfect. It's not too loud, but man does it growl. The down side of this exhaust is that I can't use a bike stand to work on the bike, which is very unfortunate. It also weighs a lot. But is sings a great song. The bike will be back on my stand sometime this weekend so I can address the jetting. The suspension will just have to wait until winter. I may respring the forks now since that can be done without disassembly. But the shock and the fork valving is gonna have to wait. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 08/10/17 at 21:53:35 Gary , What does it weigh (wet) ? Cafe racers & Trackers are not about raw speed , they are about Fun on the road , twisties. It's so much fun riding a bike that there is no need to worry about entry - apex - exit cause it turns so well. Sometimes exiting corners I let it drift out to the marbles for some fun ! Those crappy dual purpose tires are kinda fun. I think some sticky tires might take some of the fun out of the ride. Trackers are a kick in the a$$. I miss mine , got to finish it. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 08/11/17 at 05:09:04 This makes we want to buy a street legal 450 and get back to my moto roots! Problem is, it would probably tempt me to do stupid stuff. My Savage doesn't do that to me at all, which is a good thing, a very good thing. Ha, ha... |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 08/11/17 at 19:45:54 That's what's nice about the Savage Tracker , it has the looks but not all the power of a modern single. It has just enough power to keep my on my toes & highly aware ! |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 08/12/17 at 07:39:18 4D6A6B6B73661F0 wrote:
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 08/13/17 at 14:19:55 The bike weighs in at 296 pounds with all fluids topped off except fuel; the front weighed 149 and the rear is 147. That's heavier then I had hoped, but that Yosh RS-4 Twin weighs 25 pounds, a good 15 more than the run-of-the-mill exhaust systems for the DRZ. The tall side walled tires also carry a weight penalty. But those are two elements that contribute to this bikes unique looks, so its weight that I happily accept. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/07/20 at 15:41:00 This project got put aside for a few years. About the time that I started riding my DRZ I developed bad arthritis in my left hip. Riding became difficult and working on a project was too painful to be enjoyed. So I it sat in my garage in pieces for a few years. In November I had that hip replaced and I'm 100% once again. Time to finish unfinished projects. I lowered the suspension, rebuilt the carb, swapped out some clunky parts, reshapped a new rear section and painted everything to match. A few odds and ends to finish, but I'm finally happy with the result. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/07/20 at 15:41:30 Another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/07/20 at 15:41:53 Another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/07/20 at 15:42:20 Another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/07/20 at 15:42:40 And another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Ruttly on 04/07/20 at 16:45:25 WOW , Gary. Its freakin bad as$, pure moto porn. You are 2 for 2. You do have an eye for cool bikes. She looks ready to raise some hell. She must be a blast to ride. Any tickets yet ? |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by LANCER on 04/08/20 at 11:19:52 Is it perky ? [ch128527] |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 04/10/20 at 05:16:00 Cool! Glad to see you are healthy and back at it. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/20 at 08:55:49 Here are some family photos |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/20 at 08:56:12 another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/20 at 08:56:38 another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/20 at 08:56:52 another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/20 at 08:58:01 another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/20 at 08:58:28 another |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/13/20 at 08:58:55 Last, thanks for looking |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Tocsik on 04/15/20 at 13:27:53 One man should not be allowed two such sweet bikes. Nice. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Edub on 08/25/20 at 19:28:22 This is AWESOME, thank you for posting it! Incidentally, I ran across this build a few weeks ago, and hadn't seen your thread: https://purposebuiltmoto.com/suzuki-drz400-street-tracker/ Worth a look. It was also featured on Pipeburn. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Edub on 08/25/20 at 19:43:37 2F383E323D2D5F0 wrote:
PG, where did you find that photo, I'm digging that KLR build! |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by ohiomoto on 08/25/20 at 20:44:24 Wow. Looks great Gary. I missed those last batch of photos. Not sure how that happened. Probably because my work IP got blocked for some reason. |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Gary_in_NJ on 08/31/20 at 06:20:09 I've put a lot of miles on the bike this summer. It's just a blast to ride. I like the double-looks it gets; it's old...it's new...what the hell is that? |
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Title: Re: DRZ Tracker Project Post by Edub on 01/04/21 at 19:34:47 I just re-read this entire thread, thanks for posting your build Gary! You’ve really got me thinking....perhaps I should get a DRZ? |
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