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Message started by jjthejetplane on 02/06/16 at 06:43:35

Title: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/06/16 at 06:43:35

Hello all,

Hope everyone is well and riding the winter coaster safely.
I have been slowly getting my bike road ready and recently drained my oil.
Here's the long and short:
Had carb issues, broken engine breather hose, needed oil change
Cleaned and rebuilt the carb, replaced the hose,changed the oil

That was about 800 mi ago and in VA. I disconnected a wire under the tank just outside Henderson,NC and w the help of JOG did some roadside diagnostics and got her running again.

I'm currently in ATL, GA. I have since picked up a nail. Took the bike to have the tire pressure checked a mile away and en route home,halfway up a hill, my bike lost all forward momentum while still revving. Again, I called JOG who suggested I check and loosen my clutch. Which I have and there is a bit more free play.
He also suggested I change my oil as it seemed really low upon visual inspection and so that I could check for flecks of metal/aluminum. I was at a slight incline. I drained the oil and saw no abnormalities and it was really just slightly less than 2qts. I'd noticed some oil on the clutch cable and thought maybe there was a leak. I did a visual inspection of the air filter and noticed it was installed upside down and subsequently has a small crack in the frame of the filter. It is a K&N.
The tire guy was in sight the entire time and I hadn't noticed any slippage during my few short rides since my roadtrip here.

Whilst talking w JOG we realized a few things- my bike is at 24,5xx mi. Idk if it has had a cam adjustment. I am praying HOPING that it does/did. I may have possibly caused tension in my clutch when removing things roadside in Henderson and lastly, I went down in Rich and am worried I pushed my clutch pedal in when the bike went down. I posted here asking about the change in pressure in my clutch after I went down that night. It was slight but I could feel it. Now, there is a tiny kink...the tiniest kink when I squeeze in my clutch.  :-/
I was wondering if my jamming the clutch pedal could cause slippage. I'm assuming that my revving without moving was caused by clutch slippage.

At this stage, I have drained my oil to replace it with Rotella T(was using Mobil 1) but have held off on pouring it in until I know if I need to a. Replace the air filter and b. Do the cam chain adjustment. I have been reading up on the cam chain adjustment and watching vids. Could I have made it here, without it? I've only put the 800 mi on the bike.
It's still very much a new toy for me/ my baby.

Suggestions???
I don't want to monopolize all of JOG'S time.

Thanks.

I have all day today to git er done so anxiously awaiting replies. The sunny days are few and far between here in Ga.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/06/16 at 06:45:26

Air filter crack
Is it safe to use?

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by Serowbot on 02/06/16 at 07:46:35

I wouldn't give up such an expensive filter because of such a tiny crack...
It's probably fine as it is,.. but, a little smear of rtv silicone on the crack will fix any air that might be leaking past...

If you're feeling a kink in the clutch cable, you should replace it.
Not too expensive,... and will likely fix the clutch slip...

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by Art Webb on 02/06/16 at 08:07:40

seconded
I messed up my throttle cable pretty bad in a get off, and the engine 'idled' at 3000 rpm, I imagine a kinked cable on the clutch could cause no end of greif

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/06/16 at 08:31:12

The most serious issue I see is the mileage. And the fact that she experienced severe clutch slippage. It wouldn't pull a hill.
She was not experienced enough to know that if the engine is spinning and the transmission is in gear and it should be pulling fifty MPH and the thing is going five MPH, you're glazing the clutch. She had zero slack in the cable. We addressed that.
What we don't know is, how damaged is the clutch?
Is the rod too long?
Pretty sure the cam chain needs attention.


My thinking is
Put oil in, see if the clutch works now that the cable has slack.

If not, well, go in.
But going in, dealing with the cam, and Then discovering the clutch needs help would kinda suk.

Considering the miles, apparent lack of maintenance by the PO, I'd be interested in the valve adjustments and condition of cam/lifters.

Considering the clutch slippage event, where she did what most people would do, gas it, make it go, and she did that for a good while,  
What can be added to the oil to clean up the clutch guts and get it grabbing again?

Of course, if it's worn and the rod is too long, then the throw out is pinned to the case.

Marks on the case will give her a clue.

Certainly the first thing to check.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by Art Webb on 02/06/16 at 08:42:44

this is one of those 'JOG knows better than me' things, lets see what Dave, et al have to say on the matter
I'd be tempted top just go on in, check the clutch rod / plates, check the tensioner, just so I don't waste 2 qts of oil if replacing oil doesn't do it

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/06/16 at 09:06:06

Thanks for the replies. I didn't wna add the oil to have to drain it again, either, Art.
I emailed you pics, JOG.

Serow, pulling the clutch cable...would I be able to check for a kink? I can feel it but idk that there is one.

JoG,
Should I check everything before adding the oil or do you think it is worth giving it the old Harvard try with the oil? I feel like you're not too confident theboil will make a difference. I watched a vid of a guy addingbthe tensioner and he used some sandpaper on his clutch and replaced the rod. Do you think that would be a viable option for saving my clutch if I have glazed it?

I will add the oil now if so.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/06/16 at 09:45:35

I'm waiting for Dave, Verslagen and any others who have experience with the clutch to chime in. Looking at the clutch cover marks and position of the clutch disengagement arm is something that you can do without having to wait.
The pictures of oil in a cup don't allow me to slosh it around out in the sun. Or, pour some through a coffee filter or paper towel.
Describing how I do things is long, tedious and likely not even helpful to a novice.
Until you've changed oil a few times and studied it and determined what Normal looks like, not having a crisis, then looking at the oil and seeing some stuff floating in it might lead you to believe that you have a problem. Since you drained around two quarts, at least we are not scared that you oil starved it, like when we were talking. I'm much more at ease hearing that it wasn't critically low.

Gotta know if the rod is too long, so, check the arm and marks on the clutch cover.


Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by verslagen1 on 02/06/16 at 11:03:03

here's what you're looking for...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Short_rod1.JPG
the lever has to be above the lower mark and below the upper one.
where to read the mark on the lever is another discussion.
everything you don't want to know about your clutch...
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1270678838

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/06/16 at 17:48:17

Thank you, doing some reading now.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/08/16 at 11:17:42

The lever is above the lower mark and below the upper.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/08/16 at 11:18:42

Sorry I couldn't get a clearer pic.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by verslagen1 on 02/08/16 at 11:46:55

Are you lifting up on the lever... taking the slack out of the cable?
Or what?

My pic shows the lever being lifted by a rubber band.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/10/16 at 11:39:26

I misunderstood. Sorry.
This is a quote from oldfeller on the post you sent:
Note that the eccentric has a return spring of its very own and the rubber band force has to be calibrated to be able to move this separate small stiff return spring or you aren't really moving anything that counts.

The lever (with the small rubber band up force) should point between the marks on the case when you are done.   This "between the marks" shows you the rod length is correct for the wear state of your clutch

Could I use a bungee cord? I am currently reading http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1246935676/0 as a cross reference trying to understand.  What I have ascertained thus far is that the clutch will not have to be replaced. I can use a longer rod if mybplates have worn down-which is likely. The original post and poster was using the same oil thatvid used and the one i am about to use., mobil 1 and rotella t. His issue persisted but oldfeller was able to recover his plates. I'd come across that post before but didn't understand it as I didn't read it in its entirety and it wasn't relevant ATM.
My ques now are should I disengage the clutch cable to check where my clutch lever is sitting? I don't really understand in practice bc there were way too many words after a while  :-/ information overload. I have bungee cord and hair ties.  Haha
While I am inspecting or recovering my plates, if I should need a new rod the preferred length is 46.5, right? Could you guys send me a part number or a link to find one?
How will I know if I need to do the can chain tensioner adjustment and should I do it now while dealing with the clutch issue?
I still have not added my oil bc I realized I'd misunderstood but needed to read before opening my mouth again. Should I wait to do that until after I have checked out the clutch? Or should I add the oil and see if it makes a difference before inspecting the cam shaft?
I'm going to continue reading and watch a few videos if I can find any. Thanks for all the help.
The older posts are interesting esp watching you guys discover what is now wisdom for me. Thanks.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by verslagen1 on 02/10/16 at 12:17:46

So the answer was no, you were not lifting up on the lever.

7B70687474637E62110 wrote:
Could I use a bungee cord?  

yes, the example of the rubber band is for how much force to lift it up with. (more than a feather, less than a crane)

you can even squeeze the clutch lever, but just enough to take the slack out of the cable, not enough to operate the clutch.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/10/16 at 14:07:34

Clutch slightly engaged, with no oil. These are my results, still within range, right?

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/10/16 at 14:08:48

Clutch cable loosened

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/10/16 at 14:09:53

Clutch lever position

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 08:33:21

Alright guys, so if my clutch lever is falling between the two marks on the casing why is my clutch slipping? My understanding thus far is that if the pack is wearing thinner the rod needs to be replaced with a longer rod if sitting higher, shorter if sitting lower but no actual reasoning as of yet as to how or why this occurs. Since my lever is neither too high or too low, what would be the next step in diagnostics besides simply going in?
I am tempted to pour the oil in and start her up bc I'm not SEEING a problem but I KNOW there is one bc my bike was not moving. Should I now begin to inspect my clutch cable? There is an issue somewhere, just haven't quite found the catalyst.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by verslagen1 on 02/11/16 at 08:54:45

IDK, OF is the guy to call at this point.
I'd be adding HD clutch springs or washers, but that might break the throwout cam.

And I have that much lever gap at rest or slightly more.

What oil are you using?

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 09:09:19

I squeezed it in slightly at two diff increments bc I wasn't sure how much pressure and my bungee was too long to give proper tension. The lever only moved slightly higher than where it is now but still within an acceptable range.
I'd like to try it again with a second set of hands so I can observe the lever in play. I can do that in about an hr.

I'm going to put in rotella t. I was using Mobil 1.

What gets me is that I didn't have any clutch slippage on my ride from Va to Ga. Didn't notice any slippage while riding around town and then, boom, no gripping at all.  :o granted, I never took it above 4th, I would think i would notice slippage in 3rd if there was an issue and never had an issue downshifting for stops.
And I didn't see any flecks in my oil that would lead me to believe there is a more serious issue.

Old feller and Rich gave me a better understanding of the clutch pack but it seems its still kind of a mystery.  :-?
Where are they now??

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by Dave on 02/11/16 at 09:22:20

Oldfeller got a new heart valve this week....he is recovering.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 09:45:10

Oh man. Hope he's alright.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by Serowbot on 02/11/16 at 09:53:20


5358405C5C4B564A390 wrote:
I went down in Rich and am worried I pushed my clutch pedal in when the bike went down. I posted here asking about the change in pressure in my clutch after I went down that night. It was slight but I could feel it. Now, there is a tiny kink...the tiniest kink when I squeeze in my clutch.  :-/
I was wondering if my jamming the clutch pedal could cause slippage.  


I said in the first reply,... replace the cable...
It's pretty easy to do,.. and not expensive... and will likely fix the problem.

Always check the easy stuff first... 8-)

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 10:01:45

As of now, I am leaning towards pulling the clutch so that I can take some pics of what is going on in there and maybe see if the cam chain has ever been tinkered with.....

If the clutch pack looks shortened, I would assume I would then need to add a longer rod and clean the plates per old feller's instructions. Possibly check out the ball bearing to see if it is indeed wearing on the rod  (as suggested by Rich)

Right now, with my lever sitting where it is, I cannot make a determination either way without actually looking at the internals. I'm vdriving myself crazy with the guessing.

While I am down there, JoG suggested I check for the cam shaft tensioner adjustment. I watched a vid and read Vers post but will prob need to redo that to be sure of what I'm looking at.
I know I cannot have oil in the bike whilst doing that. If all looks well, and I will have to get you guys' seconding on that I will reassemble and add oil- Rotella T.

Does this sound like a good plan?

Inaction will be the death of me.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 10:02:41

Can we order the cable aftermarket or do you know a part number, Serowbot?
Thanks

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 12:25:58

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1377479692

I've read about 10 posts and this seems the closest to mybsitch but there was no followup and I couldn't ascertain whether she was having clutch issues but assuming that is what brought she and digger to the forum.
Also saw in another post that OF made mention of their being no actual relation to the lever placement starboard side and the cable itself, so thinking, maybe the cable could be the issue as serowbot suggested.
I tried again to check the lever with another set of hands so I could watch the lever. There is movement and it is still within a good range. However, upon reconnecting the cable and squeezing my clutch lever in once I have reached full actuation I hear a slight knock which was the "kink" I felt and described earlier. Adding oil and going to start her up. Will post results

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 13:10:19

Alright, I've added my rotella t after double checking my lever's seating. Tried to start the bike and 1. My ignition switch was left on and 2. No power. All lights working minus my bumnsignal which needs to be replaced, horn as strong as ever and no signs of waning.
So, I had been fiddling with the clutch cable, thought maybe I'd disconnected that yellow cable which caused me to lose power in Henderson. Nope.
Would the switch being on have killed the batt? But leave all lights on...?
Idk so,I've pulled the batt which I will run upstairs in a sec to charge/test. Ran bk to the forum tho and firstvpost mentioned the air filter which I'd pulled earlier this WK and noticed was installed backwards. Pulled it again to reexamine that crack bc wondering if PO purposefully installed backwards to compensate for the crack.
Now, waiting.. Included pics of my properly in stalled filter with a better pic of the crack(s) bc now wondering if the batt is good, maybe filter may need to be replaced or reinstalled backward again  :-/ ;D

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 13:11:40

Bk of filter

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 13:12:25

Front

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/11/16 at 13:13:14

Good to use?

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by verslagen1 on 02/11/16 at 13:51:40


616A726E6E7964780B0 wrote:
I'm going to put in rotella t. I was using Mobil 1.


bingo!  there's your problem  I'm pretty sure OF said with prolonged use may induce slipping.  In fact he said he was getting the issue with RotT6

May take a while but should get better.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/13/16 at 19:27:20

The K and N requires a cleaner and a spray can of oil.
While it is drying, either you don't ride or you have a stock unit to stick in.
MyK and N didn't seal off in the air box right.
I would get a stock filter.

At the first sign of slipping, ease off the gas.

If the oil change doesn't solve the clutch problem after a while, IDK, others are more in the know about how to get it back without having to take it apart,, so, once you try everything, whether it's working or not, you gotta go in there and deal with the cam chain.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/13/16 at 19:43:54

Horn and lights good but no starter motor turning?
Kill switch on handlebars?
In neutral?
Sidestand interlock?
A voltmeter ,  
With the meter hooked up to any hot wire and a ground then when you hit the Start button and then the solenoid kicks in the starter motor, that will load the battery and the meter will tell you what the voltage is while the starter is Sucking  amps.
It can't fall very low, and I don't remember what the critical point is.

Now, IF you hit start, And the voltage Doesn't drop, then something is stopping the start circuit.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/13/16 at 19:49:38

I pulled the battery and put it to charge. It was below 80%. Took about five hrs to get it fully charged so assuming the start switch and the cold killed it. Unfortunately for me, I dropped the screw for the positive terminal and did not hear it tinkle.
So, tmrw I will be out in the street looking for it or at Lowes for a replacement.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/13/16 at 20:01:24

What type of cleaner/oil are safe to use on the k&n? Thanks

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by verslagen1 on 02/13/16 at 21:26:29

they sell a cleaner for it, most any auto parts store will have it.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/14/16 at 05:05:22

Lawn and garden centers, they work on lawnmowers, battery bolts are easy. Take the nut with you. Probably get one free if you go to the back and see the mechanics.
Girl sa y s

I dropped the battery bolt on my motorcycle?
She's gonna get it free if im the mechanic.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/14/16 at 07:47:58

I realized that the bolt on my seat is only slightly (like a mm not even) shorter than my battery bolt but has a fixed head. My battery bolt is the one on the right w the washer. Could I swap it out? I'm sure I can ride w my seat minus one bolt and it would save me a trip.


Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by KennyG on 02/14/16 at 08:13:25

Jet Plane,

I am thinking that the battery bolts are stainless steel or some kind of alloy because even when they get corroded they don't rust..

I am not sure how long you want to ride the bike with a seat bolt missing though, I am thinking on a hard turn the seat could slide towards the side that still has a bolt in it.

You should be able to get a stainless steel bolt at Lowe's or Ace Hardware. If you have a motorcycle shop nearby they will have some worn out batteries around and will probably give you a bolt.

Kenny G

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/14/16 at 08:23:37

Thanks. I was wondering myself about the material of the screw.  The seat bolt isnt rusted though just a bit dirty. I had a hard time finding one that would fit when I replaced my last battery(mechanic lost that bolt) went to lowes,walmart, advanced and auto zone-ended up having to construct something redneck style with wire under the washer to get a good fit. (It's the Virginia in me.)Each battery I've used has had a diff set of nut and bolts or screw/washer. Worst case I have to make a home depot run later and will try to warm up to the lawn and garden folks.  :-*   ;) ;Dhaha

Thanks and happy Valentine's day everyone!

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/27/16 at 13:21:55

Crazy ques guys but I finally put the batt back on and started it up. I had a few tries with no start,lights, horn working. I decided to pull the tank and check the wiring again, disconnected the yellow cable and reconnected it with no luck. So, I decide to disconnect my clutch cable and the o ring and cable were both covered in oil. I couldn't get it reconnected for a good ten mins and the entire inner cable came out in my hand. I inspected it for kinks and saw nothing but once I slid it back in and wiped the o ring down the bike started right up. Could this have been causing my clutch slippage issues?? Would it have run if the cable(inner cable) weren't securely in place? Meaning, is it possible I've been riding with a loosened clutch cable all this time?  :o

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/27/16 at 13:33:08

Going to assume no. I felt the expected surge of power shifting out of neutral into first, shifting up from second, I started to lose power again and watched the speedometer drop down below 10. I cut the engine and crab walked her home.
Suggestions?

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by oldNslow on 02/27/16 at 13:53:52


5E554D5151465B47340 wrote:
Crazy ques guys but I finally put the batt back on and started it up. I had a few tries with no start,lights, horn working. I decided to pull the tank and check the wiring again, disconnected the yellow cable and reconnected it with no luck. So, I decide to disconnect my clutch cable and the o ring and cable were both covered in oil. I couldn't get it reconnected for a good ten mins and the entire inner cable came out in my hand. I inspected it for kinks and saw nothing but once I slid it back in and wiped the o ring down the bike started right up. Could this have been causing my clutch slippage issues?? Would it have run if the cable(inner cable) weren't securely in place? Meaning, is it possible I've been riding with a loosened clutch cable all this time?  :o



Look at the first picture in the link below. Ignore the rest of the stuff about the leak for now. I
just copied the link for the picture. The cable on the right side of the pic with the round nut on it is the speedometer cable. The cable on the left with the two hex nuts on it is the clutch cable. There is no o-ring on the clutch cable and the only way the inner cable on the clutch cable can slide out of the housing is if the inner cable is broken. The ends wont fit through the housing. I think you may have taken apart the speedo cable.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1268286763

As far as the no/start/ no lights goes, I think you need to take another look at your battery bolt repair. You might not have a good connection there.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/27/16 at 14:17:55

Thanks. Going to check the link out now. I think the yellow cable under the tank may have been loose just not fully disconnected.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 02/27/16 at 14:19:40

You're right. I misspoke. It was def the speedo cable and the o ring that I have doesn't look like the one in the pic. It's looking a little worse for wear actually . I'll post a pic shortly.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by oldNslow on 02/27/16 at 17:42:56

I wouldn't worry about the o-ring on the speedo cable right now. If you do need a new one though the part # is in one of the posts down below the picture in the link I sent.

Anyway, after going back and rereading this thread I have a theory about your clutch problem. I think you damaged the cable when you tipped the bike over, and the damaged cable is not allowing the clutch to engage completely when you let go of the lever on the handelbar after shifting gears. It was as though you were riding with the lever on the handlebar pulled just slightly all the time. The clutch was slipping just a tiny bit all the time you were riding from wherever the tip over was to where you are now. At first it probably wasn't slipping badly enough for you to realize anything was wrong. Until recently.

If you watch the lever on the engine case the the clutch cable is attached to, while pulling the handelbar lever all the way to the grip, the lever on the case should move up about an inch or so as the cable pulls on it. When you release the lever on the handlebar the lever on the case should snap back down to where it started from. Push down on that lever with a finger after you release the lever on the bar and make sure it's down as far as it will go. If the lever on the engine doesn't snap back all the way down then either the clutch cable is not adjusted correctly - has no slack in it - or it is kinked or otherwise damaged, and it is keeping the clutch partially disengaged - allowing it to slip.

Correcting that; either properly adjusting the cable, or, more likely I suspect, replacing it because it  was damaged when you dropped the bike, might fix you problem. Unfortunately it also night not. Riding as far as you did with a slipping clutch might have finally damaged the discs.

I'd start with the cable. Reading through the thread I'm not sure that you've eliminated that as the source of the problem.

.

 

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 03/09/16 at 09:43:49

I know my replies are sporadic. Blame the Georgia weather and my schedule. I included a pick of my oh so oily o ring. Just did the test with the speedo cable disconnected and the snapback is as it should be. I pulled the clutch all the way in and watched it rise and fall,pushing also to test.
I am at my wit's end.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 03/09/16 at 09:53:00

If it is not the cable and the clutch lever is where it needs to be,I'm not sure what to do.  I know I'm having clutch issues but it seems the tests to determine those issues at coming up in the negative. Is Old Feller back in commission?

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by oldNslow on 03/09/16 at 10:35:25


717A627E7E6974681B0 wrote:
I know my replies are sporadic. Blame the Georgia weather and my schedule. I included a pick of my oh so oily o ring. Just did the test with the speedo cable disconnected and the snapback is as it should be. I pulled the clutch all the way in and watched it rise and fall,pushing also to test.
I am at my wit's end.


The spedo cable has nothing to do with the clutch or the clutch cable. Your o-ring looks ok. That o-ring only keeps oil from migrating up the speedo cable and getting into the speedometer itself. Put that back together and forget about it. If there was anything wrong with that cable the only symptom would be the speedometer would not work.

If you are positive that your clutch cable is OK and adjusted properly then you are going to have to get the clutch cover off and figure out what happened to your clutch. I think you are going to need some hands on help. Someone who understands how a motorcycle clutch works. I'm not sure anyone is going to be able to just talk you through this one.




Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 03/09/16 at 12:46:47

I tried it a few times before -checking the clutch lever's position. The resistance feels OK in the clutch and the lever always falls within the two marks.
Trust me, I was almost hoping it would be out of range so I had a starting place. I checked several times this morning to be sure before posting.
I've read the clutch argument posts a few times over and am willing to attempt it. My only concern would be having enough or rather, the right tools for the job. I am patient and thorough. I will take my time.
It slipped going into second when I had it started. I know something is going on with the clutch.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by engineer on 03/09/16 at 18:49:54

Glad to hear that you are methodical and careful, that's half the battle.  In the tech section of this forum there is a Savage Companion Photo CD.  It has excellent and detailed pictures of a Savage  being dismantled and is a great reference.  So if you haven't already downloaded it I would recommend that you do before you take the clutch apart.

Clymer's also has a shop manual which is useful but the pictures are poor. Amazon has the soft cover version and there was a link somewhere on the forum where you could download it.   Good luck.

Title: Re: Loss of power cont.
Post by jjthejetplane on 03/10/16 at 09:15:39

Haha. Thanks.
That good luck was a bit ominous. Now I'm worried. JOG, I might give you a ring

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