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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1426265605 Message started by Gary_in_NJ on 03/13/15 at 09:53:25 |
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Title: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/13/15 at 09:53:25 Builder’s log, star date 68666.9…sorry, wrong fantasy. During the spring of 2014 I was traveling for business and as I always do I purchased a stack of car/motorcycle/mechanical magazines to kill time during air travel. I came across an article “Should You Build Your Own Café Racer” in Popular Mechanics and stopped dead in my tracks. I tore out the small article of the RYCA Café Racer as it promised an LS-650 based custom for less than $5,000. When I visited the RYCA website I was impressed with the number of completed motorcycles and the variety of design. I’ve always wanted to build a Tracker and a Café Racer…and RYCA had both. I was hooked. I immediately started looking for an LS-650 donor bike. My goal was a low-mileage rat bike; an unloved and unattractive bike that would come in at $500. It took me about 5 months to find a ’95 model with just 2,300 miles. The bike had lived its life in a wooden shed with a dirt-floor down at the Jersey Shore. While the bike was stored “inside”, the damp salt air took its toll on the entirety of the exterior surfaces. Every piece of chrome was pitted and all of the clear coat on the aluminum pieces was cracked and damaged. It also had a nice dent in the fuel tank. Perfect. The bike started right up and settled into a smooth idle. Everything checked out and worked, so I handed five clean $100 bills to its original owner and became the second owner. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1680_zpsd6e2ba98.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1687_zps904311a7.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1688_zpsf9c83831.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1689_zps46cee2c0.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1694_zps3fee3a5f.jpg Within minutes of getting it home it was up on my bike bench getting torn apart. Beyond the aforementioned corrosion, everything looked good…it was exactly what I was looking for...and had I known better I would have run for the hills. Here’s the deal, I don’t like polishing parts. It never occurred to me that the clear coated aluminum parts would resist simple cleaning. Looking back I’d gladly trade an extra $1,000 (or more) for clean bike that didn’t require 100+ hours of grinder/air-tool/buffing/hand-polishing work that this bike required. Every part had to be taken down to bare metal and brought back up to shine. That sucked. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1698_zpsc0409b65.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1699_zps69534743.jpg With the bike completely disassembled and inventoried I ordered my RYCA Café Racer kit. I spent the down time waiting for the kit studying the documents and watching the videos (a dozen times). It occurred to me that the RYCA fork solution was not going to work for a sporting street bike. I started to plan how to improve the front suspension. The results of my fork solution are well documented here --> http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1421689358. I do need to relay this story. When I had my fork plan mostly worked out in my head I figured I’d touch base with Ryan and ask a few questions. Ryan didn’t have experience with RaceTech components and wished me well on my project. After making contact with RaceTech and discussing possible solutions for an LS-650 based café racer I again contacted Ryan to get some feedback. Me to Ryan – “I've got the forks worked out with the folks at RaceTech. I'll be modifying the damper rods, adding cartridge emulators, using adjustable pre-load caps and running straight-rate springs. Rather than reduce the fork travel by two inches I'll raise the forks in the triple clamps.” Ryan to Me – “Sounds pretty intense. Sounds like you’ll need a custom triple tree as well since the Suzuki does not slide. Anyways, can’t wait to see.” In other words – YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU’RE DOING, BUT GOOD LUCK. What? I’ve been wrenching on bikes for years. I’ve never seen forks that couldn’t slide in the triple clamps. But he was obviously right. In my haste to disassemble the bike I never bothered to look at how the forks functioned in the clamps. I love being told that something can’t be done, it inspires me. So I started to think about how to modify the upper triple clamp so I could raise the forks. One night with all of the pieces in my hand I had a “eureka moment” when it occurred to me that I might be able to use a lower triple clamp as an upper. I took measurements looking to see if there was any offset built in (luckily there isn’t) and how things could line up. Convinced it could be done I got on ebay and was happy to see dozens of t-clamps available. I ordered a lower assembly for $25. Two days later it arrived and one hour later it was an upper triple clamp. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1763_zps568e8dbe.jpg It was during the process of waiting for RYCA parts to show up and designing my suspension that I joined this forum. I found the café racers in the builders section to be inspirational and began to think of other ways I’d like to complete my bike. The goal of this builders log is not how to build a RYCA café racer - that’s already well documented in many places - but how I implemented my ideas and the ideas of others into my bike. I did all of my custom fabrication and fitting during initial assembly. This log is being written and photographed during stage 1 final assembly, so there won’t be a many tails of my trials and tribulations, just results and suggestions. I hope to complete the documentation through stage 2 final assembly, the point where everything is painted and powder-coated and the engine has been modified. Right now I’m just days away from riding the bike, and I don’t know what I’ll think of it. I never rode it as a Savage so I know nothing of its power delivery or other characteristics. At this point I’m wondering if I’ve spent too much money on a dream. I don’t know. But what I do know is that this has been a very enjoyable project. I’m also floored by the technical knowledge of the forum members. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/13/15 at 09:56:10 Seat Pan Rivnuts I made a slight mod to how the rubber rivnuts get installed. I thought they needed a bit more support so I grabbed seven 5/16” washers and put them between the seat pan and the rivnuts. This should give a lot more support than just the fiberglass seat pan. Also, I couldn’t get the 1/2” long or the 5/8” long 8-32 screws to start. I couldn’t even get the 5/8” long screws to start where the 1/2” screws were supposed to be used – and my rivnuts are closer to the seat pan as a result of the washers under the rivnuts. Clearly these screws are not properly spec’d. As a result I went out and purchased 1-inch long 8-32 stainless screws. They started with no problem and as hard as I try, I can not feel them anywhere near the vinyl seat cover. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1773_zps7bb3748d.jpg |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 03/13/15 at 10:15:48 Gary: You will only be sorry about the Savage...if you are a horsepower addict. Several times when I have been riding my bike and having a great time.....I wonder why anyone really needs more HP. On the rural and mountain roads - the Savage engine is a real treat and the available torque and low gearing is a real plus. If you do a lot of interstate riding the low power and gearing could be a bit of a turn-off....however some engine and gearing changes can fix that. The Cafe' bike is really gets lots of thumbs up when I ride....however there always will be the hardcore V-Twin crowd that just doesn't understand that it is a "real" motorcycle. I am anxious to see how your suspension mods work out. I agree that installing spacers to limit fork travel is not a good solution. I made some changes to allow me to drop the forks like you did and the ride is good. I will be adding emulators and springs once you confirm the spring rate is the correct one. It appears you have become our resident suspension expert! ;D Dave |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gerry on 03/14/15 at 05:08:08 I gotta say that your top clamp solution is brilliant. It's so simple and obvious route to take that I'm amazed no one else has thought of it. Can't wait to read about your front suspension mods and how they ride. I was a little disappointed in lack of power on my bike after a couple of hours of accumulated ride time. I thought it would be quicker. But it is fun to ride and the handling is nice on the curvy roads around my area. I'm looking forward to some nice warm rains to wash the salt and surface crap off the roads around here so I can get the bikes out again and get more seat time on the Ryca. One thing about the Ryca is that although it was a kit I still enjoyed my time working on the project and adding my own mods to the project to make it more of my own. and when you pull into a gas station or go a ride out to dinner with a group you always get one or two fellas who walk up and ask you about the bike and I don't know if it's ego or what but that always feels good too :) It is definitely a conversation starter and I like talking about bikes any time ;). Have fun, Gerry |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/14/15 at 18:35:02 Well Gerry, since you've joined the conversation, I feel good about showing off your contribution to my bike. When I decided to modify a lower triple clamp into an upper I also at the same moment resigned myself to finding my own solution to attach the speedo and tach to the bike. I fabricated an approach out 6061 bar stock that worked just fine, but I had always admired Gerry’s custom instrument cluster. I noticed one day Gerry volunteered in his builder’s log that’d he’d be happy to build upper triple clamps for members…so I thought “I wonder if he’d be willing to build another instrument cluster”. So I asked – and he did. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1776_zps3b9d8ce0.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1777_zps38c95544.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1778_zps641b90f3.jpg This is just outstanding workmanship. It really completes the look of my bike. After my fork improvements it’s my favorite “custom” element of the bike. And as long as I'm showing off Gerry's work, I might as well show off an idea I stole from him (and there are others too). I liked how Gerry implemented the key switch at the former location of the airbox. He wasn't the first to do it, but he gave enough details with his photos that I was able to develop a solution. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1784_zps57b4a020.jpg The problem I had with making this was the diameter of the switch housing. It's 1-13/64 inches - and I don't have that size drill bit. The largest I have for cutting metal is 7/8", so I used a technique that I learned from building aircraft. The first step is to trace the shape onto a bracket (the bracket is made of 0.125 2024, 2.00 x 1.50). I also wanted to trace the shape of the switch housing itself to ensure I left enough room for full coverage. I than drilled a centering hole. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1779_zpsa05149e6.jpg I then used a 3/8" drill to drill out the circumference of the circle. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1780_zpse9e37265.jpg Once drilled and removed I used a Dremill tool to remove the remaining material. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1781_zps31853b03.jpg I then used a die grinder with a 1" Scotchbite wheel to polish the surface. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1782_zps3c24093d.jpg And here's the finished result in place. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1785_zpsa3641752.jpg |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by haylo on 03/15/15 at 10:05:35 I too am impressed with your solution to the RYCA loss of 2" in the front suspension. Thanks a mil. Now just a few questions. Why did you choose the blue over the yellow for the Emulator spring? Why the decision to drill the 2 extra holes in the plate valve? The instructions included with the parts did not cover these two questions to my satisfaction so...I'll go to our resident expert...and that's you! I'm in the 175 to 180 lb range and went with the 80 RT spring. Thanks again for your time...greatly appreciated. Haylo |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/15/15 at 14:53:37 545D4550533C0 wrote:
Good questions. There are 3 springs available for the Gold Valve Emulator (GVE); the Yellow spring has a 64# rate, the Blue spring has a 40# rate and the Silver spring has a 26# rate. The spring rate determines where in the stroke the valve will open and the rate at which oil will flow. Within each spring rate there is adjustability from 2 to 5 turns. If you start with the Blue spring and find yourself at 5 turns and still needing additional compression damping (because you're blowing through the stroke), then its time to move up to the Yellow spring (5 turns on the blue is equal to 2 turns on the Yellow). Conversely, if you are at 2 turns on the Blue and the ride is too jarring (like it's hydrolocked) it's time to move to the Silver sping at 4.5 turns (1.5 to 20 turns on the Blue is equal to 5 on the Silver). Given the weight of our bikes (300 to 375 pounds) the Blue spring is the "Goldilocks" spring. Heavier bikes tend to use the Yellow and lighter bikes tend to use the Silver. There is crossover due to type of riding (motocross and off roading vs. street riding). I set my initial setting with the Blue spring at 2.5 turns. I'm thinking this should work well, and RaceTech agrees. I may need to tweek it. Regarding the two extra holes in the valve plate, that's something that is common on vintage race bikes. It's covered on RaceTech's supplemental instructions for vintage racers (it's well hidden). The cafe conversions are very (very!) similar to vintage racers, so the mod most definitely applies, even for street riding. It works best on lightweight road/street bikes. It allows for dual-rate valving, where the initial (dampened) stroke is plush and faster strokes are controlled fully by the valve. Its a well-proven mod. Go ahead and drill those extra holes...and thank me later. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/15/15 at 14:57:31 Busy weekend. I got the bike off the stand and on the road...or at least the driveway. My fun was cut short due to fuel coming out of the head breather. I've never experienced this before. I've seen where a maladjusted float will cause fuel to run out of the carb overflow, but I've never seen this. I guess I'm running VERY rich. BTW, as part of my build I replaced the OEM fuel valve with a Rapter unit. The prior OE unit was leaking. I didn't do an oil change during my build (waiting for filter to arrive from Ron Ayers) and I'm thinking that the fuel could have been sitting in the crankcase for years. At this point there's really no way to know. Other then a leaking fuel valve, what else would send fuel into the crackcase or cause it to run from the breather? I updated my suspension thread to reflect my thoughts on the fork improvements. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/16/15 at 05:41:41 Haylo, He's a link to RT's Vintage Tuning Guide. http://racetech.com/download/IP%20FEGV%20SETUP-TUNE%20VINTAGE.pdf |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 03/16/15 at 06:31:00 Gary: Did you check the oil level through the window? It is not uncommon that when the vacuum petcock goes bad, it allows fuel to flow down the vacuum line and to the front of the carb, and the fuel then goes past the valves and dilutes the oil. This is the most common cause of the oil/fuel spray coming out the vent tube. (The other common one is that that when someone had the head cover off....they took out the mesh screen that works to separate the oil from the air before it goes out the vent). |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/16/15 at 06:58:33 Dave, I'm quite sure that I have fuel diluted oil. When I picked up the bike it was leaking fuel from just about everywhere. I'm going to do an oil change this week. I'm fully expecting to get some type of oil/fuel solution. Dave, I looked at the micro-fiche for the head and didn't see a mesh screen. Can you give a better description? As far as I know the head has never been off this bike. I can't think of any other way that fuel can make it to the crankcase other then leaking past the rings due to a continuous flow while shut-down. The bike was cranky on start-up - long crank time and it didn't want to idle. So I have a lot of carb adjusting in my future. I'll get it dialed in "close enough" for now. There no sense in getting it right in 40 degree weather, as I never ride in those conditions. As soon as I get a nice day in the 75-80 degree range I'll start looking at carb tuning seriously. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 03/16/15 at 07:17:00 Gary: It is hard be believe the fuel can somehow get past the valves, past the piston and rings, and go into the crankcase - but it does. On some bikes it goes to the air cleaner and fills up the air box, on others it goes into the crankcase. Not sure if the angle of the place the bike is parked makes the difference - or if the intake valves being open or closed makes the difference. The little screen sits in a pocket in the head cover, and can be accessed when the head cover is off. Part number 41 in this diagram..... http://www.hondaofflorence.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=432111&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2005&fveh=10118 If your head cover has never been off - it will still be there. It looks like this sitting in the cylinder head cover. Metal scrubby looking thing sitting in the lower right corner. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/16/15 at 07:39:26 Excellent description Dave. I can't say with 100% certainty that the head has never been off this bike. While the odo says 2300 miles, my Spidy-Sense says it's more. For example, the inside of the exhaust is coated in carbon. I wouldn't expect that on a 2300 mile bike (it was female owned and I'm sure never ridden hard). The exhaust o-ring was missing, yet the bike wore its original exhaust. Why would the exhaust come off a new bike? Given how badly it leaked I can't imagine someone would operate it that way for 2300 miles. Yet the tires (while badly dry-rotted) show normal wear for a 2300 miles bike. And the wiring harness was very clean. Even the brake fluid wasn't disgusting. I'll never know...and I really don't care. Almost everything on the bike has been replaced with something new and in time the engine will be modified and brought up to my standards. It's all part of the mystery of an 20 year-old neglected basket case. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 03/16/15 at 08:35:01 If the original owner liked to start the bike and let it warm up at idle with the fuel enrichment knob on while she put on her helmet, gloves, jacket, glasses.....the darn thing could have been carboned up in a very short time. Same thing if they would start the bike and let it idle during the off season to charge the battery and keep the bike "limber". Me....I start the bike, let it run for 30 seconds to a minute...then ride off and take it easy for a bit until the engine warms up. Several members have commented that their clutch slips when cold - but works fine when warm...that makes sense as the thick oil doesn't squeeze out from between the plates as easy when thick. By the way...nice job on the ignition mount. I don't have a milling machine and had to do similar thing with my drill press. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/16/15 at 09:07:45 I bet you are right about the long warm-up or the battery charging. Makes me feel as bit better. 1E25283F2E22393F242C213E4D0 wrote:
I have a fly cutter that I could have used, but my drill press has a minimum speed of 600 rpm and fly cutter likes to turn at 500rpm or less. At 600 rpm it's good for holes above 2 inches at 600 rpm (and can go up to 8"), but scares the crap out of me for smaller holes. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Bob0matic on 03/16/15 at 19:15:13 Great job on the bike. Enjoyed reading your posts. I agree this site is a huge sorce of info. I did the same triple clamp trick (saw it on an old triumph cafe racer years ago) & the Ryca lowering. 4" drop looks amazing but your right- the Ryca lowering meathod is a compromise. Clip ons above the clamp is a nice riding position though. I like your adjustable fork caps but couldnt find that ebayer. Do u think any 38mm cap will thread on? Hope to see photos of finished bike. My cafe project took a dramatic turn to a "functional" bobber. Not sure how to put up pics. Thanks, Bob |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/17/15 at 05:29:57 Bob, any 38mm caps will work. Here are the ones I purchased: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-FORK-BOLT-FOR-YAMAHA-SRX400-SRX-400-ADJUSTABLE-FORK-CAP-/251881234407?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3aa54a9fe7&vxp=mtr |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/17/15 at 05:39:48 Last night I did an "oil" change on my bike. I put oil in quotes as it was really a fuel change. No kidding, I drained over a gallon of fluid out of the crankcase - most of it fuel. I changed the filter, added two quarts of Shell Rotella and fired her up. It started immediately and settled into a very nice idle. All of the poor running the previous day was a result of too much pressure in the crank case. A few tweaks to the carb and I was on the road. I love this bike. The power delivery is acceptable and I really like the tall gearing. The riding position is good and the seat is hard (which is not too good). My forks communicate well as I can read every message from the front tire. The brakes suck - bad. That will be the next thing I attack on this bike. From what I have learned in the last 24 hours there are several possibilities to improve the brakes. Did I mention that I love this bike? I do. Sorry for the crappy photos. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1792_zpse00743e1.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1790_zpsae45e781.jpg I should probably get the sticker off the front tire :) |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by EJID on 03/17/15 at 08:58:04 Bike looks great, and I'm glad it seems to be running much better after a simple oil change. When you mentioned that you really want to upgrade the brakes I immediately remembered a member that was offering a brake upgrade kit in the marketplace, you should check it out if you haven't already. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1391549028/0 |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/19/15 at 17:44:05 Rear Brake Light Switch I hadn’t given enough thought to RYCA’s reuse of the cable and how it’s wrapped around the swingarm to dislike it, but when I saw how Gerry mounted his cable http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0877_zps1e1e08d8.jpg I was inspired to copy and improvise on his approach. I made a bracket out of some scrap 0.125” 2.00 x 1.50 2024 angle that I had left over from my airplane. But after I hung my exhaust I realized that I couldn’t use it. I also had some scrap 0.60 4130 plate and that did the trick. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1802_zpsa0d412f5.jpg I noticed that Gerry used a cable from the foot lever to the spring on the switch. I can’t make cables…but I can cut and drill things. So I ordered an AN43B-4 Eye Bolt from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty and replaced the clevis pin with this part and a cotter pin. I then used a M5x100 stainless threaded rod to go between the foot pedal and switch spring. Simple and functional. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1800_zps51311c18.jpg Decompression Lever I’m not a big fan of RYCA’s foot actuated decompression lever. It just looks awkward and tacked-on. I resigned myself to using the simple hand lever and modifying the clutch safety in the wiring harness. Then I came across Dave’s handlebar mounted solution – and knew it was the right way to go. It has design elegance and it reminds me of the big singles I owned in my youth that also had a decompression hand lever (I loved kicking my GN400 to life). I began the process of identifying parts for modification and then one day these magic words appeared on the forum; “I’m thinking of building a few of my levers for sale”. Problem solved – solution in hand. Dave’s handlebar mount is OEM quality and it installed in just minutes. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1803_zps872de90e.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1804_zps1b6628d4.jpg Since I moved the ignition key to its own location and I was using Gerry's instrument panel, I didn't have any use for the RYCA tank cover other then to use it as...well...a tank cover. I contacted RYCA to see if they could sell a blank/uncut cover, but they don't sell 'em that way. So I asked Gerry to make me a duplicate of the key cover that he made for his bike. I filled the indicator lights with some M10 Button Screws to give the cover more of a fuel cap look. It's better than nothing. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1805_zpsa6139474.jpg Here's the pilots POV... http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1806_zpsb7a8ed18.jpg |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by KennyG on 03/19/15 at 22:36:15 Gary, How did you fill the opening for the speedometer? Kenny g |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 03/20/15 at 04:48:07 Looks good! The bottom yoke used on top looks much better than I expected. I suspect the weather is just about to change....and you can soon to the extended Road Test ad see how your fanny likes that tiny seat! :D |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gerry on 03/20/15 at 05:00:25 I like that bottom yoke on top too. Ryca should buy up a bunch of salvaged pcs. and offer them in their kit. Hey Gary, when you get a chance you should bop over to the Cafe and tell us about your plane build. I have always been interested in Experimental Aircraft but never had the money or resources to get more involved other than a passing interest. A good friend of mine restored a Taylorcraft from the late 40's and goes to Oshkosh about every year ( not in the Taylorcraft though). Bike is looking good! Gerry |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/20/15 at 05:18:38 1E303B162734263D550 wrote:
Member Gerry made it for me. Contact him to see if he can make more. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/20/15 at 05:45:25 6F54594E5F53484E555D504F3C0 wrote:
It sure is...we're getting 6 inches of snow today. That means more salt and sand. NJ just loves to spread that stuff. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/21/15 at 17:22:02 I think one of the most frustrating parts of building this bike (not the hardest) was deciding how to route the wires and cables. I got all but one done to my satisfaction - the clutch cable. No matter how I ran it, the 90 degree turn at the clutch lever just always seemed to be in the way. RYCA should offer shorter throttle and clutch cables. Seems to me they are missing an opportunity. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1821_zps2454c848.jpg The only way around this was to order a custom cable. On Dave's suggestion I ordered a cable kit from Venhill that was about 6 inches shorter then the OEM cable. The length is perfect and the run is nice and straight. The throttle cable was also too long, but I just wrapped it around the backside of the carb. The photo below was taken before everything was sorted out. I have no idea what the wire running under the choke knob is. Maybe the neutral wire? I don't know, its not there now. But you can see how the throttle cable comes around from the side. This didn't create any friction in its operation. Other methods I tried did. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1786_zpsff50b69f.jpg I also fitted my side covers today. Rather then goop them up with SEM, hold 'em place and pray for the best, I used a few clecos to drill them in place. With two locating holes I was able to bond the cover to the metal support without worry that they would move. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1819_zps5ffd8c6e.jpg Here's a few shots in better light... In this one you can see the temporary clutch cable installation. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1810_zpsb516ad8c.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1813_zps93425f65.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1815_zps5269af46.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1825_zpse12fdbdf.jpg |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/21/15 at 17:28:24 OK, here is the hardest part of building the bike...removing the sticker from the front tire. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1827_zps1b23e287.jpg I thought that this was a paper sticker and after a few miles it would just remove itself from the bike. After 16 miles of riding it was completely intact. The above photo is after 45 minutes of work...soaking it in WD-40...and pealing off a square 1/8" at a time. The sticker is actually foil. I think by riding with it in place I bonded it to the tire. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/21/15 at 17:44:37 The brakes on this bike are inadequate. I have a few different brake solutions inbound. Some time ago Dave modified an SV650 caliper for use on his bike. One thing led to another and he didn't install it. It was sent to Verslagen for testing, but he didn't install it either. This caliper is meant to ride on the OEM 260mm rotor. It is a two piston design and has larger pads to dissipate heat. What isn't known is if the master is properly sized to apply enough clamping force. Further, I don't know how the extension of the mounting bracket will effect how much the caliper flexes. This week I ordered a RYCAShawn BBK (Big Brake Kit). This kit uses the OEM master, but it operates a four piston caliper from an R1/R6 - squeezing a 320mm rotor. This is a major upgrade and probably overkill - but I like overkill. Anyway, here's the plan for all three braking systems. I have a long driveway, over 1/4 mile long. The pavement is in excellent condition and is a perfect place for brake testing. I will place two cones on either side of the driveway. I will also layout a 100' tape measure that I have. I will accelerate to 40 mph and apply a strong braking force at the cones. I will conduct each test three times and average the result. First I'll test the OEM system (as it is already on the bike) and establish a baseline. Then I will install Dave's SV Caliper as it should be a simple swap-out. Finally I will install my final solution, the BBK. While I know that the BBK will easily crush this test, it will be interesting to see how a simple caliper swap effects braking. It will also be interesting to see what 1/2 of a sportbike brake system (there are two front rotors on the R1/R6) will do to this 310 pound bike. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Kris01 on 03/21/15 at 18:44:28 I'm eagerly waiting for the results of this test. ;) |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/23/15 at 17:41:41 I went to ride my bike yesterday afternoon and couldn't get it started. The battery was strong (well, at least during the first 20 attempts) and I could smell fuel, so that pointed to a spark issue. My concern was that I may have pinched/cut/damaged something during assembly so I removed the side covers, seat and tank. The side covers took about 20 minutes to remove. There is just no room to maneuver between the airfilter, rectifier and side cover. Anyway, everything checked out fine and it turns out it was just a very dead sparkplug. Tank back on, seat screwed down, side covers...in place...screws in...oops...it fell on the floor...back in place...can't seem to start it...no room to turn...oops back on the floor........ 30 minutes later I had the side covers back on. What a crappy design. Really Crappy. REAL CRAP! So today during lunch I went through the cafe builders section to see what others have done. Both Gerry and Gyrobob complained about, and developed simple solutions to this. So after some thought, so did I. Here's my how-to to make the sidecovers easy (E A S Y) to install and uninstall. If you are a new RYCA builder and happen to be reading this, just do this. Step 1. Buy Hardware. I purchased 6-32x1/2 SS screws, 6-32 SS Wing Nuts and #6 SS Lock Washers. Total investment ~$6 Step 2. Thread a screw and lock washer from the inside of the battery box towards the outside. The photo shows two washers to "shorten" the protrusion on the other side of the box. But I think it's too short. Next opportunity I'll remove a washer. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1829_zpsf97ac9ab.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1830_zpsa1ff3e41.jpg Step 3 (Optional). Drill a 7/16" hole in the lower bracket. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1834_zpsc346366e.jpg Step 4. Install side covers. Time now about 2 minutes per cover. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1833_zps2e11c50e.jpg I kept the thumb screws in the bottom, that is the reason for the 7/16" hole in the lower bracket. This allowed me to easily locate the lower fastener and slip it into place and then get it almost tight (tight enough to keep it in place, yet loose enough to move from side-to-side). With this done, I simply placed the upper slot on the 6-32 screw and installed the wing nut. Once tightened I was then tightened the thumb screw. It would work just as well with four studs and four wing nuts, but I wanted to try this method. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by swing69 on 03/23/15 at 18:53:26 Couple of questions for you Gary: 1) how is the gauge bracket attached to the bottom? 2 LONG allens through the top tree, spacers, then nuts? 2) any more detail picts of the idiot light cluster? it looks GREAT! possible cure for the headlight / clutch cable interference. A) move the light forward on a new bracket 1 or 2 ". B) move the clip-on above the tree! ;) I probably going to rethink the sidecover attachment all together. Maybe 2 dzus fittings per side? Just like BSA did it! |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 03/23/15 at 19:01:15 5F5B45424B1A152C0 wrote:
I believe that the bolts are 1/4-20x2-1/2. There are two ~0.75 spacers made from 6061-T3 Tubing, a few washers and a rubber washer between the tubing and the bottom side of the t-clamp. I used nylocs to ensure it doesn't come loose due to vibration. The cluster is a product of Gerry's. It's well documented on his build page. A new cable is actually the easy answer. $30 and it's correct...just correct, no compromise. Dzus fasteners would work nicely. I think there is plenty of room inside the battery box for the barrel. Certainly at the front...maybe at the bottom. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/30/15 at 06:12:25 The roads in NW NJ are still coated with sand at intersections, and it was cold and windy yesterday, and none of that could keep me off my Cafe Racer. I put an additional 30 miles on the bike. I had to return home after about 15 miles as the shift linkage (at the shift shaft) removed itself from the bike. I made a "Final Torque Check List" for almost every bolt and fastener on the bike and that item was not on the list, so I'm quite sure it was only finger tight. I'm surprised it stayed on the bike as long as it did. Luckily nothing was damaged or bent and I was able to ride home without any other problems. I was sure to use Loctite on the new M6x20 bolt. I'm starting to get a good feel for the bike. Some observations: - It really doesn't like to be ridden below 3,000 rpm. When shopping for a donor bike I made sure to pick up a model that had a 5 speed trans, but I now see that really wasn't necessary. I need to read the chain conversion thread to see what people thought of going to a larger rear sprocket. - I'm not sure if I'd call the steering heavy. It's actually hard to tell. The clip-ons are so wide - and there is so much leverage - that the result is a nice balance between rider input and resulting action. - I don't have a lot of confidence in the tires....yet. It's cold out and there can be sand around any corner, so I find myself riding a bit cautiously - which is uncomfortable to me. But those times when I'm able to go with the flow of the bike, the bike has rewarded me well. - The bike rides OK. I purposely took it down some roads that always give a busy ride. The forks and shocks managed to absorb anything I came across. While the ride is busy/choppy on roads with less-than-smooth surfaces, it just blends-in with the all of the vibration. I think the shocks are a bit on the stiff side. I need to take another preload measurement to determine if the spring rate works for me. - The lube that WPS ships the chain with makes a considerable mess. That lube has been thrown all over the rear wheel hoop, the spokes, the hub, the seat cowl, the kick stand - and my left leg. I think it has finally stopped and I hope that the chain wax I normally use will cling a bit better. If not, I will get one of those license plate holders that double as a sprocket cover. Dime City sells them for $70, but that is money well spent if it reduces post-ride clean up. Alternatively I could go to an o-ring chain that just needs mild lubrication with WD-40. - I need to do some calibration runs with the speedo. It seems to read low. Either that or this bike is able to create an unusual sensation of speed. There were time where I thought I was going 60mph and looked down at my speedo and it read 50-ish. Some simple math (using tire circumference, transmission ratio & final drive ratio) can give me some target rpms for calibration. - Even unpainted the bike is a real head turner. Lot's of thumbs-ups and long glances. The bike is a real pleasure to ride. Very pure and honest. There is an abundant amount of character and personality in this small bike. I'm very happy that I built it. There's something about a thumper that just puts a smile on my face. After my 30 mile ride yesterday I took my FZ6 out for a ride. I felt like I was riding a Goldwing compared to the cafe racer. I always considered the FZ6 to be a "sport-standard" - which it is - but man, it felt so smooth and relaxed yesterday. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 03/30/15 at 07:13:40 Yeah......the RYCA Cafe' draws as much attention as a new puppy! :) |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/30/15 at 08:28:57 So based on a rear tire size of 130/70-18, the gear ratios in the OM and my 18:52 sprocket set, here are what the rpms should be at various speeds: Gear.....20..........30..........40..........50..........60..........70 1st.....3,261......4,891 2nd....2,207......3,310......4,413......5,517 3rd....................2,396......3,194......3,993......4,792.....5,590 4th...................................2,674......3,342......4,010.....4,679 5th..................................................3,091......3,709.....4,327 |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by swing69 on 04/05/15 at 18:27:39 Whats the status on the overall build???????? Last report: front working great, rear ryca's good. Did you do the brake upgrade yet?????? |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/06/15 at 05:04:46 I'm very happy with the forks. I updated my suspension thread to show the results of some minor adjustments. I may still make a further adjustment to the oil height (I may try a little less oil at a height of 150mm, currently at 140mm down from 130mm). I don't know what I think about the shock yet. Still not hating it. BBK came in Saturday afternoon. No time to test this weekend due to the holiday. Hopefully next weekend I can get my testing done. As soon as the brake testing is complete I'll be tearing it down for paint and powder coating. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Bob0matic on 04/06/15 at 12:45:51 Not to bring up old stuff, but if your still unhappy w/ cables & routing ive used MotionPro. They have a custom cable department i used a few yrs back on my FJ1200 project. I think any cable was $20-25 ea. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by RycaShawn on 04/08/15 at 11:11:34 Hi Gary, In order to conduct a fair test (and I know this being a brake engineer for 13+ years) you really need to make sure each brake system is fully bedded in. What this means is that there is a pad transfer layer of friction material on the rotor surface. The way brakes work is that they create and break bonds of the pad friction to the rotor surface. Can't wait for the results! Unfortunately without data acquisition, this test is very heavily dependent on the test rider. This means you will need to do way more tests to get a better average result and of course you have to throw out the stops that don't group together well or else it will affect your conclusion. Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/18/15 at 16:52:35 I haven't done the brake test yet. I've been traveling non-stop for the past few weeks, with only Saturday as my day home. I'm lucky to get a 1/2 hour ride. I got a 30 minute ride in today. At the end of the ride my tail light bracket decided that it no longer wanted to be part of my bike. I hit some rough pavement that really compressed the shocks and the SEM adhesive let go. I don't think that I want to re-glue it back into position...it always seemed a bit wonky to me anyway. So I'm gonna have to come up with a brake light/license plate holder and turn signal solution. I've been looking at the axle mount license plate holders with the brake light mounted on top. That's a fairly straight forward solution and doesn't seem odd for a cafe racer. I just need to come up with a good turn signal location. I'd like to wire the turn signals so running lights are included. We'll see. The temperature today was around 80 degrees, so I really gave the bike a work out around some of my favorite twisty roads. The bike really handles great. The ride is good too. The steering really is light and dead-on accurate. This bike is a real joy to ride. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Jeff71 on 04/19/15 at 01:49:15 I'm planning on fiberglassing the bracket into place. Jeff |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 04/19/15 at 06:24:34 The stock RYCA tail light/turn signal just isn't adequate or safe. It cannot be seen in direct sunlight unless you are looking directly at it...which is not something I would expect from distracted drivers. I welded brackets on the side of the frame, just below the seat and behind the side panels. They work great....get some good bright turn signals, and avoid the ones with 13-15 of the tiny pea sized LED bulbs, as they are just not bright enough. It is easy to get OEM factory turn signals on eBay from Sport Bikes....as the squids yank them off to put tiny little turn signals and fender eliminators on their new sport bikes. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 10/28/16 at 09:06:10 It's been a while since I posted an update to this thread. I now have two riding seasons on my S40/CS-1-based cafe racer. I'm happy to say that I enjoy this bike more now then when I first completed it. The bike has a lot of personality. It was my go-to bike this summer. My FZ-6 didn't see the light of day once, and I like that bike. The cafe racer just seems more accessible and is just a joy to ride. A few things rattled themselves loose over the summer, but luckily I found them before they departed the bike. I now know the importance of blue loctite. I just started a post on some alternative shocks that I installed this week. That thread can be found here --> http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1477621252 The shocks on the bike were driving me nuts, so these new shocks really complete the bike. It now has a nice plush ride. And they look great. So now that I have the bike sorted out to the point where I like it, it's time to rip it apart for paint. I've gone back and forth about painting the bike; do it myself, send it out, have a local shop do it, find a guy... In the end I've decided to have a local shop do the work. I brought my bike to almost every autobody shop in the area to get quotes. The one shop I never thought of going to was the one where I've had all of my work done for the last 25 years. It's a great shop, but they ain't cheap. I had decided on a shop but thought to myself "I might as well ask, nothing to loose". Turns out they were excited about the bike and wanted the job, and the price quoted was exactly where I thought it should be. So after this weekend the bike will once again be on my work stand in pieces. Regarding color, I've had two years to think about that and I sure at one point every color was in play. A few weeks ago my wife was painting her nails and I thought to myself "that's the perfect color" It doesn't show too well in the photo below, but there's just a hint of green in the blue making it look a bit turquoise in sunlight. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2553_zpssuoji8gn.jpg To that I'll be adding a RWB stripe front to rear and some Suzuki vinyl graphics. The side panels take up a lot of area I'm I'm still working on a few ideas so they don't look like blue billboards. Maybe a white oval with a "650" or crossed checkered flags with a 650 below. I have a few weeks to figure it out. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Norwegiandood on 04/05/17 at 06:25:30 31355509160D080A06630 wrote:
I am currently doing my own Ryca CS-1, and I am running into the same difficulty regarding the clutch cable being to long when the clip-ons are in place. I contacted Venhill, and they didnt have all the measurements needed on hand. Did you, Gary, send them your own OEM cable for reference, or do you by any chance have some of the details still laying around for the custom cable? Love this site, and your posts help a noob like me! ;D Kim Oslo, Norway |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/05/17 at 07:04:17 Kim, I purchased a cable kit from Venhill which was cut to the correct length during the final assembly process. I don't remember the exact length, but it would appear that the replacement cable was 6 inches shorter then the OEM length - with the OEM handle bars (if you have higher bars you may need to remove more). Knowing what I know now, I would make it 5 inches shorter as the cable is too tight when the bars are all the way to the left. In fact, I suggest moving the bars to the left, then take a piece of string and run it from the clutch handle to the clutch actuator lever, this way you'll know that you have the perfect length for your bike. Make note of the exposed cable length from your original cable , cut the new cable to length obtained from the string measurement (allowing for a little slack) and cut to sheathing to maintain the same exposed cable length from the original. The cable comes with one ball not installed. After the cable and sheathing are cut to length the ball is soldered into place. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Norwegiandood on 04/05/17 at 07:41:48 Thank you Gary, that was a quick response. Great, thank you so much for the info. In addition to the length itself, the folks over at Venhill supplied me with a form where they would like for me to fill out each detail soncerning the contents of the cable that details the length of inner and outer, what ferrules, nipples adjusters etc.. As I understand, you did not go through the same procedure? As I am fairly new to the specifics of clutches, I don't feel confident in filling out this form. I might just send them my OEM cable and they will copy the linkages etc.. That is, if none of the forum-members have the specs on hand. I attached 1 of 3 pages of the form, the other two are drawings of different kinds of cables.. Thanks again Gary! K |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/05/17 at 08:55:42 This is the kit I used: http://www.venhillusa.com/venhill-universal-motorcycle-clutch-cable-kit.html I'm sure there is a European equivalent kit. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Norwegiandood on 04/05/17 at 09:48:37 Great, thank you so much. The UK-version had a very different interface and I didn't see that kit at first glance. Anyhow, I will copy that link and send over to Venhill UK. Thanks again Gary! K |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 04/18/17 at 11:50:18 [split] [splithere] (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1492526543)[splithere_end] |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/21/17 at 10:26:56 I just picked up a box of painted parts. Beauty shots to follow - hopefully tomorrow. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2897_zps4vizdvwd.jpg |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Ruttly on 04/21/17 at 11:59:18 Gary your nothing but a tease ! ;D |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 04/21/17 at 12:08:07 Yep......kind of like motorcycle cleavage! |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by ohiomoto on 04/21/17 at 16:52:08 Ooooh, what'cha got there????? |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Ruttly on 04/22/17 at 09:29:50 Ok it's tomorrow we are waiting. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/22/17 at 10:31:00 Disclaimers. I didn't polish the bike or otherwise prep it for photogrpahy - which is kind of how I own bikes anyway - I ride them, I don't like cleaning them. This was also my first attempt at "high key" photography - I learned what to do and what not to do for the next time I go for the white background. Anyway, I'm really happy with the way it came out. It's raining today so I can get some of the final details on the bike like the mirrors and license plate. Funny thing - this bike sat idle all winter while I waited for painted parts. At some point the rear tire went flat. So now that it's all together, I have to remove the rear tire and fix a flat. http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer01_zpsjz8ezqgk.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer02_zpsel44zey9.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer03_zpsbv5mgirq.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer04_zpsukufawha.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer05_zpsf2es9u0a.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer06_zpsij96bp1d.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer07_zpsxbgod8we.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/Cafe%20Racer08_zpsyywvn2ir.jpg |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Ruttly on 04/22/17 at 10:47:47 Very very nice ! Finish the details and ride the crap out of it ! |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Kenny G on 04/22/17 at 14:27:08 Gary, All I can say is WOW! Your bike is really nice. Kenny G :) |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Dave on 04/22/17 at 17:03:51 Very nice Gary.......well done! Does your wife know why you needed the sheets? ;) |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Ruttly on 04/22/17 at 17:51:59 Oh she will know when she finds the tire tracks ! ;D |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by ohiomoto on 04/24/17 at 05:30:20 Outstanding! Love the paint work. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by jasbmo on 05/02/17 at 23:40:22 Wow this is absolutely gorgeous! |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by LANCER on 05/03/17 at 06:43:55 VERY nice & love the color scheme ! |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 11/30/19 at 07:53:53 Just reattaching some photos since photobucket only provides blurry copies. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 11/30/19 at 07:54:18 Right Side |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 11/30/19 at 07:54:40 Rear |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 11/30/19 at 07:54:57 Top |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 11/30/19 at 07:55:22 Another |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by srinath on 11/30/19 at 11:20:51 Boootiful. What did you do to the lower triple to get those gauges and lights to fit up like a glove. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by DragBikeMike on 11/30/19 at 16:54:40 Mighty nice ride Gary. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary in NJ on 12/01/19 at 04:21:27 2F2E35323D28345C0 wrote:
The gauges sit in a custom housing that holds the indicators that were originally in the speedometer. The housing is attached to custom upper triple clamp (that was formerly a lower triple clamp) via a simple aluminum bracket. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Ruttly on 12/01/19 at 08:52:23 Very nice Gary. I believe I have seen your bike on the RYCA website. Very nice indeed ! So is it done ? Or like my bike still evolving/improving ? |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 12/01/19 at 11:39:12 It’s very much done. The only changes I’ve made since those original photos were taken in 2017 are a larger headlight bucket, relocating the license plate, swapping out the bar-end mirrors to ones that don’t vibrate and swapping out the grips. In time I may go to a higher compression piston and cams, but to be honest, the 30 or so horse power it’s making fits the personality of the bike well. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by sandmanred on 12/02/19 at 05:36:24 Nice job! |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by norm92de on 12/02/19 at 16:36:00 Excellent work Sir. :) |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by ohiomoto on 12/03/19 at 09:46:25 I just took a look back at the build and between the excellent descriptions and what you can make out of the pictures, it sits a really useful build thread. But reposting the finished pictures brings the joy back to the thread. Well done. :) |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Edub on 01/09/20 at 20:23:58 Sweet jeebus that's a nice bike! Just found your thread, looking forward to going through all of the posts! |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/10/20 at 05:46:53 Thank you. I've owned and built many motorcycles over the years, but this is the one I will never part with. It just pleases me on so many levels. Sorry that the photo hosting service I used became a problem. I have all of the original photos so one day I will fix this thread. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Edub on 01/10/20 at 22:58:31 That would be greatly appreciated! I would love to see the rear brake linkage and some of your wiring routing, etc. as described, when you get a chance. I've been on the RYCA site several times, and yours is one of the most well-sorted CS-1's I've seen. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by kamelryttarn on 01/14/20 at 05:27:20 I searched through the pages of this thread but couldn't find the answer so I'll just ask with the risk of embarrassing myself: Is the carburetor on your bike original or aftermarket Mikuni or similar? I was thinking about putting a VM 32 on mine because I think it will look better and perform adequately for my needs, but if yours is a a VM34 or similar I think that a VM32 is probably almost just as big and still bigger than I would like there. |
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Title: Re: Gary in NJ's RYCA CS-1 Build Post by Gary_in_NJ on 01/14/20 at 06:33:34 OEM carb. |
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