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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Another Ryca Build Log /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1385498224 Message started by Gerry on 11/26/13 at 12:37:03 |
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Title: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 11/26/13 at 12:37:03 Hi all, been kind of lurking here since I discovered the Ryca kit and Googled Suzuki Savage and found this forum. About half way through my build now I decided I would put together a build log on the forum. Back in about mid August I searched Graig's List and found about a dozen various years used Savage's for sale within easy driving distance. After a few phone calls and emails I settled on this one. A 1997 with ~12,000 miles. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/DSCN0682_zps9959767f.jpg I rode it for a day to see how the engine ran and everything seems fine. So I pushed it up on the lift and started taking it apart. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/DSCN0695_zpsbd821d73.jpg About that time I also ordered the CS-1 kit from Ryca and sent my deposit. I wanted to get the tank and rear hub ready to ship off to Ryca right away. Rather than snip the rear spokes I deflated the tire and unscrewed the spoke nipples and pushed them into the tire making it possible to remove the hub with the spokes. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/DSCN0698_zps74887f7e.jpg After removing the spokes, internal brake components and plate from the hub I mounted the hub in the lathe to try and polish it up a bit. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/DSCN0700_zps627938d2.jpg Here it is finished. In addition I stripped the clear coat off the brake plate and polished that as well. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/DSCN0703_zpsfe66cd36.jpg Next came the tank. The tank had a small dent in it. When I was on the phone placing my order with Ryan at Ryca I mentioned the ding and he said if it is not too bad they will knock it out when they have the bottom of the tank open. He said just draw a circle around the dent and make a note on the tank and they will take care of it. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/DSCN0707_zps61990c2e.jpg I shipped the tank and hub off to Ryca and proceeded to continue with dismantling the Savage. Finally got the engine out of the frame. It was pretty greasy and crusted up with road grime and oil. I wanted to mount it on a home made stand like I had seen on this forum using angle and attaching that to a Harbor Freight furniture mover so that I could roll the whole thing up on to my trailer and take it to the do it yourself car wash along with a can of Gunk and degrease it. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0724_zps68aaec86.jpg I needed to seal the motor up the best I could before spraying it. I used rubber glove fingers and zip ties to seal the speedometer cable opening and the breather on the head cover. And for the starter motor hole I used a plumbers tool that I found at Home Depot. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0723_zps2bd15ee3.jpg I also wanted to seal off the intake and exhaust as well. I have a 3 axis CNC mill and CAD/CAM so I drew up a model for some cover plates. Here is some stock in the vice ready to machine. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0717_zps4327d954.jpg And here it is finished. For thin stock like this I create tabs in the CAM software and then when the part is finished I just put the part in the bench vise and using a Dremal with a cut off wheel remove the part from the blank. A little touch up on the belt sander and it is ready to use. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0719_zpsdf35607c.jpg Attached to the motor along with a gasket I cut from an old inner tube using the aluminum plate as a template. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0722_zpsfbaf9fdf.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0720_zps79d53e29.jpg I removed the side covers to strip and polish but here are a couple of shots of the motor after cleaning. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0728_zpscdab5233.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/3rd%20installment/DSCN0727_zps09a4d131.jpg I was thinking about painting the case but it come out pretty nice after cleaning so I am going to leave it like it is. At this point I modified the cam chain tensioner and removed and replace the head cover bolts with new ones. A couple of them were rounded off and one was broken. I also bought new caps for the head cover and the one over the head bolt and put the whole thing back together with new silicone RTV for the head cover and new gaskets for the case covers. I also prepped and painted the cylinder satin black. Here is a shot of the engine back together. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/4th%20Installment/DSCN0746_zps038a55bf.jpg While waiting for the kit to come in from Ryca I started thinking about what color to paint the tank, side covers, seat cowling and frame. I am going to use Duplicolor rattle cans and have a friend spray the clear with 2K. I thought it would be cool to have a red frame and paint the other parts Wimbledon White. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/4th%20Installment/DSCN0760_zps48899867.jpg I thought the white was a little too cream colored, didn't look at all like an old Mustang. So than I thought that I might paint the frame silver and the rest of the components some variation of British Racing Green. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/4th%20Installment/DSCN0761_zpsf6621985.jpg I kind of liked that, the silver sprayed nice and the green I found was OK I guess. My wife came home from a local "antique mall" that sells those old looking signs and she knew I like Ford GT or GT40's so she bought me this poster. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/4th%20Installment/DSCN0762_zps9826b213.jpg That got me thinking about that white and whatever blue that is. I did a little Googling and found out the colors for that version of the Ford GT are Performance White and Sonic Blue Perl. I found those colors in Duplicolor cans at my local Advance Auto and made a sample of that. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/4th%20Installment/DSCN0759_zps3a8250ee.jpg I kind of like that and I'm thinking I'll do stripes just like they are on the Ford GT. So that is what I'll paint it then with a satin black frame... who knows, I'll probably change my mind again :) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 11/26/13 at 13:12:00 I really liked the way Dave Seidman did his Ryca CS-1 and especially the way he machined out the stock top triple clamp. Here is a link to his gallery on the Ryca web site http://rycamotors.com/customer_builds/ryca_customer_dseidman2.html My 97 has a chrome plated top clamp and I didn't really want to try and machine thru that so I modeled a new top clamp in SolidWorks and machined it out of billet aluminum. This is a screen cap of my first design. At the time I was thinking about putting the turn signals, high beam and neutral indicators in the top clamp using LED's. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/4th%20Installment/TopClampCapture_zpsecdb660a.jpg I have since then evolved the design into adding a dash to hold the light as well as the clocks. Here is the blank for the top clamp mounted to the machine table on top of a sacrificial plate. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/5th%20Installment/DSCN0767_zps733ccc15.jpg And here it is about two thirds done. Just need to move the cap screws out of the pockets where the forks and steering stem go and add clamps to keep it in place but out of the way of those areas. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/5th%20Installment/DSCN0769_zps8ea1cc6c.jpg I made a mock up for the dash just to see scale and see if I need to make any changes to the model in CAD before I commit to a piece of aluminum. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/5th%20Installment/DSCN0770_zps549740ca.jpg Here is a screen cap of the model for the dash in the CAM program. I had received the kit from Ryca and discovered that I can not remove the trip odometer re-set knob so I had to some how make a way for the speedo to slip into the dash. That's why you see that big notch in the right hand hole at about 7:00. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/ScreenCapSprutCamDashBoard_zpsb866a235.jpg Here is a shot of the blank ready to machine. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0801_zpsdd0bc23f.jpg And finished. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0783_zps841e7ee8.jpg I also had to make some kind of bracket to attach to the to the dash and hold the gauges in place. Here is a shot of both parts after machining and ready to be separated from the "fixtures" http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0804_zpsb928aadc.jpg Next I had to design something to hold the stock light bulbs in location under the dash. Here it is with the first side done. Just need to flip it over and use a face mill to mill the excess from the other side. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0816_zpse559576a.jpg Here are a few shots of the part finished, bulbs and stock lens installed. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0821_zps0698e092.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0820_zps16f4ffed.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0822_zpsc57b3455.jpg I needed to make a cover to hide the notch for the trip meter knob. I thought it might look cool if I made it out of brass and a jeweled finish. After the jeweling operation. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0825_zps2c5fda92.jpg And after the profiling operation. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0826_zpsf9c3e6c8.jpg Here are some shots of the assembly. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0818_zps27cf82eb.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0819_zps0ae60298.jpg And the assembly on the bike. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/DSCN0827_zpsbfaaf514.jpg After all that you know what? I don't think I like it :-/ :) It kind of looks too complicated and not right on the bike. I need to mount on that little post thingy I machined to get it up and away from the head light. As well as make room for the speedo cable. I'm thinking that maybe I'll paint the components for the dash assembly satin black and see how that looks. I need to finish prepping the tank and prime it and put that on, maybe that will help? Don't know, lot's of fun trying to figure it out for sure. Coming up I need to finish assembling the body parts figure out the wiring and get odds and ends prepped and at least primered. I am also going to try to make my own front turn signals and a few other things. Thanks for reading Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Badass94Cad on 11/26/13 at 15:25:23 Wow! :o I'm definitely following this build. Awesome work so far. 8-) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Rush-rks on 11/26/13 at 16:03:42 I can't wait to see your bike finished ! I wish I had your talent and ability I will be watching this thread as you complete your build. It is awsome ! 8-) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by v-pilot on 11/26/13 at 18:20:53 Kick A$$...I'm on board! |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Ragnar444 on 11/26/13 at 18:28:21 Holy Moley! This is exactly what i would do on my Ryca build if I had the slightest bit of mechanical experience. All I can do is stare in wide-eyed amazement. Rock on! |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Face on 11/26/13 at 19:18:07 Fantastic work, so far!! Very impressive. ;) Couple of questions. Are you using the stock fork tubes? Also, couldn't help but notice you run a Grizzly lathe, how does it perform? And last, if you don't mind my asking, what CNC mill are you using? |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by old_rider on 11/26/13 at 19:29:12 Very well planned and executed. Are you going to bend the speedo plate to angle it up for a better view?? It looks kinda flat, if you would bend it below the turn signal lights to angle of maybe 30 degrees toward the rider and possibly put a housing around it with thin aluminum. Just a suggestion... i'm not an engineer by a long shot and could not do such intricate as you do, your build is looking awesome, keep it up! I will most definitely be following this build! And now I guess I have to find someone with your skills and a C&C machine. ;) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by LANCER on 11/27/13 at 03:00:46 I am jealous of your skills, along with a few others around here; excellent build. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 11/27/13 at 05:02:45 Great looking stuff so far. One of the things you might consider is the front forks. The 2" spacers that RYCA uses to lower the front end makes for a rough ride. You have the machining skills to take the forks apart and change the length of the tubes and keep the suspension travel intact......or......you could make another top yoke that has clamps for the fork tubes so that you can lower them. I did this by changing my yokes to RM400 yokes that have clamps. I installed a 1/2" spacer in the forks and then lowered the fork tubes 1.5" in the yokes. The travel of my forks is good and it rides nicely. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 11/27/13 at 05:07:29 Another issue to consider is the rear brake pedal. The rear sets don't have a stop for the pedal to keep the brake lever from moving up....and it is hard to adjust the brake so that it work well as a result. I made a clamp that has a stop in it.....and it doesn't let the brake pedal rotate up. This allows you to adjust the brake pedal and obtain a pedal feel like a normal bike. I made the stop with a bandsaw and drill press...you could do it much nicer with your equipment! http://i44.tinypic.com/2i6cl8j.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/2lu2bli.jpg |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 11/27/13 at 06:37:28 Thanks every one for the kind comments and suggestions. 777C6E72736E6E1D0 wrote:
Hi Face, thank you. Yes, I am using stock forks. Ref. the lathe, I'm not a machinist just a hobbyist so I am just speaking from my own experience but it has worked for me. I have not done any threading with it, just turning down to size, drilling, boring. The only thing I wish it had was a variable speed spindle. There are plenty of resources on the web for converting it variable speed so some day I would like to do that. I think Grizzly might now have a comparable lathe with variable speed now for not too much more money. I bought mine about 5 years ago. I am using a Tormach PCNC770 mill. I was planning on converting my then current round column RF30/31 clone mill/drill machine to CNC but that is not the best platform to base a conversion on. Should really start with a dovetail column mill. In researching the conversion I stumbled upon Tormach and decided to invest in their system. Very good company to work with, they are based in Wisconsin and all their machine tools are designed by them and made to their specs in China. Check them out http://www.tormach.com/ 7D7E76607B767760120 wrote:
Hi Old_Rider, Thanks for the suggestion. I would like to play around with that a bit. I would prefer it angled more and tucked down out of the way rather kind of perched on top like it is now. In my first prototype I had the dash section bent about where you suggest but was having trouble with the speedo cable interfering with the head light. I too was thinking about some type of housing and had modeled that in CAD. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/6th%20Installment/Dashwithshield_zpsc1cfbee3.jpg I have also thought about moving or getting a different head light as well. Maybe go with fork mounted brackets and a headlight to match that would move the headlight bucket down and forward a little bit. Thanks again for your thoughts, very much appreciated. 73484552434F545249414C53200 wrote:
Thanks Dave for your advice. I had read a few posts about how harsh the ride is after the fork conversion. I may look into doing something about that following your recommendations after I ride the bike for a bit. 02393423323E252338303D22510 wrote:
Now that is a great solution! I am defiantly going to borrow that idea. I had no experience with these rear set kits and did not know how that worked until I installed them. I wondered why the brake lever was so free to move backwards like that, especially as you adjusted the linkage. Thanks much for that idea! And thank you to everyone who is following along. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by wambr on 11/27/13 at 08:11:57 wow! great work! it turns out a very serious project! more words yet. :) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by ToesNose on 11/28/13 at 04:48:21 Gerry looks like you have a killer shop as well as a killer build going! Thanks for sharing with us, looking forward to following your progress ;) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by old_rider on 11/28/13 at 05:00:12 Gerry, if the speedo cable is causing problems.... why not go digital on the speedo and get rid of the cable? It would also make your dash smaller... but after all that work on your current setup...sigh... Just a thought, after seeing dave's setup on his and you saying how you didn't want it up in the way. Take a peek at dave's dash setup with the digital vipertech speedo guage. Its on page 4 of "dave's thumpin' special" build. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1358099938/45 |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Demin on 11/29/13 at 05:30:12 Very very cool 8-).I'm in envy :P.I want a top tree like that. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 11/29/13 at 05:58:46 I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving :) 70666A6575070 wrote:
Thank you Wambr. 7B404A5C61405C4A2F0 wrote:
Thank you ToesNose. 54555D595E300 wrote:
Thank you Demin. 2F2C243229242532400 wrote:
Hi old_rider, going with a different speedo w/o a hard cable is not a bad idea for sure. I do appreciate the input. But I really like the look of analog gauges. I went through Dave's build log thread last nite, what a cool bike that is, truly individual and very well done. I was out in the shop yesterday and mounted the dash assembly on the bike in the position I was originally going for when I discovered the interference problems with the headlight. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/7th%20Installment/DSCN0841_zps8f1a0997.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/7th%20Installment/DSCN0842_zps483041da.jpg This is by far my favorite location, now if I can just make it work :) So at this point here is a short list of alternative plans I am going to explore in the next few days (not in any particular order)... Move stock headlight forward. (don't think this will work though) Look at trying to put more of a bend in the end of the speedo cable or looking for a 90° adapter for the cable/ speedo intersection. (seems like I have seen something like that adapter before and that would be cool but would probably be more obtrusive than just the end of the cable) How about something like this... http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/7th%20Installment/Con2Fairing_zpsf16c258f.jpg I think that would be the ultimate, put a smoke windscreen on it and mount the head light in the fairing. A fairing would make it easier to hide the rats nest of stuff around and behind the headlight. I would love to try and figure that out, mounting and making brackets and so on. But that is kind of expensive when you add a windscreen. Another thing I want to investigate is maybe keeping the analog tach and going with a digital speedo? old_rider got me thinking about that while I was writing this post. :) Put all that in a different shaped dash along with the indicator lights. Make the tach the prominent part of the dash. It is kind of cold out in the garage today so I will probably spend a few hours in the shop and perhaps model that up in CAD and post my results later. Thanks for reading, Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by old_rider on 11/29/13 at 06:57:20 After looking around on the net and on ebay, I thought of something (big dog cycles worded it and got my attention). If you like the looks of your housings, keep them, but put a digital speedo INSIDE your mechanical speedo housing! think that would work?? could you do it? You would have to take them apart and fab some inner mounts to hold the digital led face up against the glass and make a backround facing to cover the excess area. Just another idea to help save space if possible and get rid of that cable, the fairing thing sounds kind of interesting and ebay has so many cheap sales. I once purchased a sport bike fender and fabbed it to fit on my supermoto.... P.S. I like the speedo housing where you have it in the last pic...somehow it looks like it belongs there. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by teabowl13 on 11/30/13 at 11:12:54 What an awesome job you're doing! This looks amazing. I definitely think the instrument cluster you have looks awesome, and it belongs where you have it mounted in that last photo. Have you thought about looking for a different headlight and bucket? Something smaller, maybe? Or just something that isn't as deep? I definitely think that fairing will fit the bill; takes care of the headlight, and hides the mess. I know it's $, but it sure would look the business! Perhaps you could scour Ebay for something like it that you could modify? |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Ragnar444 on 11/30/13 at 14:24:58 Completely awesome my friend. Ever though about getting together with Ryca about incorporating some of your ideas? BTW can not wait to see what you do with the fairing. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 12/01/13 at 07:15:13 57545C4A515C5D4A380 wrote:
Hi old_rider, you got me thinking about just using the tach and then mount a digital led speedo in the dash so I did some web surfing looking for something to adapt and wasn't really satisfied with what I found. I tried to take the speedo apart when I discovered that the trip odometer re-set knob would not just simply pull away from the stem I thought it was mounted on. I don't think these gauges are meant to come apart, not with out damage I think. Thanks for the ideas though, I really do appreciate any input. 6F5E5A59544C570A083B0 wrote:
Thank you for the kind comments teabowl13. I was looking at this headlight from DimeCity http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-lighting-parts-chrome-3-5-inch-retro-headlight-66-84181.html Not sure how that would look on the bike though. I may just order that light and see how it scales on the bike... budget is pretty much blown though :( And speaking of budget... I think a fairing would be awesome... But I think maybe I'll wait til next fall and I might try to do one on this bike. Thanks again for your input. 182B2D242B387E7E7E4A0 wrote:
Thank you Ragnar444. I don't think I'll ask Ryan or Casey if they are interested in any thing I'm doing but I will send them some photo's of the finished bike and if they ask me about it I would consider it. Hope your build is going well. Here is a little up date on my "plan B" for the dash. I got to thinking that the way the guy's at Ryca layed out their gauges on the little powder coated brackets was really pretty clean and put the bottom of the speedo in a location that allowed some clearance for the speedo cable and headlight. They have the gauges mounted from the bottom whereas I had mine mounted just below the top of the gauges. This put the bottom of my gauges further down in the way of the headlight. so I re-designed my whole assembly. Here are some screen caps of the model in CAD. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/8th%20Installment/DashVer3Cap1_zps3c312dba.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/8th%20Installment/DashVer3Cap2_zpsbf78baa3.jpg I made the indicator light housing pretty similar to the previous one but changed the outside profile and added a spacer with a pocket in it to raise the whole thing up to almost level with the top surface of the gauges. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/8th%20Installment/DashVer3Cap3_zpse5fce9ec.jpg I am going to dig through my aluminum pile and see if I got stock to begin machining this version today. I think I will also start sorting out the wiring on the bike and see where I need to add wire to the loom and also position the ignition switch some place other than the tank. Thanks for reading Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 12/05/13 at 04:32:51 Gerry: Welcome to the build and rebuild....try and retry......make and remake club! On several occasions I built something and then found out it was not going to work well, and had to start over. I first mounted my Trailtech Vapor speedo above the top yoke - then had to remake a mount to go under the top yoke once I saw how far the speedo stuck up in the air. Then I tried making a rear brake rod that went over the swing arm.....it looked weird so I then made one that worked like the RYCA rod. I originally tried making a license place bracket that held the plate vertical - but there was not enough room for suspension travel so I mounted the plate in the normal horizonatal method. The rear brake light and turns signals were not bright enough....so I added supplemental lighting. The most recent change was to make the compression release lever functional......I needed a larger lever to get enough leverage. It is a fun and rewarding process.....but sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it right! You have a better start on this than I did, it was the middle of January when I started to take my stock Savage apart. When warm weather hit I was still in my garage working.....it was torture hearing motorcycles go up and down my road while I was still in the garage working. My maiden voyage was on May 12th....about 4 months of work. Keep at it.......I promise the riding is every bit as fun as the building! |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 12/05/13 at 06:34:28 516A6770616D76706B636E71020 wrote:
Thanks for the encouragement Dave. I read through your build log the other nite. Very nice, I admire how you strayed from the kit in various ways and made the bike your own. I'm afraid I needed the kit format to get me started and hopefully stay on the project. You don't know how many bikes I have bought in the past, disassembled just to sit in my garage for years only to be sold as basket case's :) I really enjoy the evolution process in designing something and making it work. So re-doing is not so bad, however I have been seen staring at the wiring harness draped over the bike, looking at the manual wire diagram and wondering how in the heck am I going to get that back to working order ;D I learned that I need to take better pictures before tearing it apart ;D Oh well, one bridge at a time. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 12/05/13 at 07:57:16 Gerry: Oooh....the wiring. That one did make me lose sleep a few nights. In addition to taking out the decompression circuit, the clutch and sidestand safety switches....I also changed my handlebar controls to 7/8" and used a KLR right side and a GSXR 1000 left side. I had to splice the wiring harnesses together, and I believe it was the most challenging part of my build. It all seems to make sense while you are doing it.....but after cutting and splicing wires you begin to wonder how you will ever go back and trace what you did if things don't work? The RYCA instructions are pretty clear and easy to understand, and help considerably. I am sure that Ryan and Casey have inspired a lot of us to do the Cafe' bike conversion.......I know I would not have done it if they had not paved the way first. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 12/11/13 at 11:37:49 Hi all, just a short update. Been too cold out in the garage to work out there so I have been dinking around in the shop where it is some what warmer. The other day when it was a little warmer in the garage I put the wire loom back on the bike, more or less. I wanted to see if the lights on the new dash work and see if I had wired the Ryca tail light correctly so I connected the battery. Every thing works, no fuses blew. I just need to work on getting rid of the decompression relay, clip the green connector from the side stand wires and tie them together, figure out where I want to locate the ignition and extend as needed, mount the starter solenoid, rework the battery cables a little bit and have the weather warm up a bit so I can work out in the garage :). Here are some photos of the new dash... http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0854_zps4abf0c7f.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0855_zpse7e61efb.jpg And since I'm not going to use the Ryca position for the ignition I made a blank to cover the hole... http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0862_zpsff43279a.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0864_zps09d2b3ba.jpg Here are a couple of photos of the whole bike that I wanted to post earlier with the tank and seat in place as well as the engine and exhaust system. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/7th%20Installment/DSCN0836_zps23de3f17.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/7th%20Installment/DSCN0830_zps3c71f62f.jpg I hope in the next couple of weeks I get the wiring done and in position then put some oil in the engine and crank her over and maybe see if it will start, I can't wait to see what the exhaust sounds like. I hate winter. Thanks for reading Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by verslagen1 on 12/11/13 at 11:46:29 I like that a lot better, much less clunky looking. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 12/23/13 at 09:16:52 23302726393432303B64550 wrote:
Thanks Verslavy. I haven't done too much on the project lately. Been too cold and we had an ice storm roll through and have been without power for the past two days, finally got it back early this morning. I'm kind of intimidated by the wiring. I figured That the first thing I should do is get the ancillary's such as the CDI, ignition and rear brake light switch in their final positions then start routing the loom making adjustments in length as needed. I did not like the way Ryca has you mount the igniter assy. using Velcro or two sided tape so I made a mount plate for it and drilled a couple of holes in the side of the battery box to mount it. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0866_zpsa0efb9a1.jpg I put a strip of rubber under this aluminum strap to hold the igniter assy firmly in the pocket in the base plate. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0872_zps1d1a4ca1.jpg I didn't want to mount the ignition in the gas tank cover either. I saw this mounting method on the Ryca customer gallery and made this bracket. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0879_zps1ffdc26a.jpg I hope to find some 4X heat shrink tube to wrap around the base of the ignition and up onto the wiring to help seal that off. I didn't like the way Ryca has you connect the rear brake cable to the rear-set linkage so I made a mount bracket for the switch body itself and connect that to the rear-set linkage. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0877_zps1e1e08d8.jpg I'm not sure how this will work out. I don't know if I'll bang into that cable with my boot and screw it up during use or if it will work out? I plan on painting these parts satin black when I paint every thing else. I also made a stop for the rear brake pedal Ala Dave's Thumpin Special build, thanks Dave! http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0874_zps6e455f29.jpg Thanks for reading, Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 12/23/13 at 09:27:45 Gerry: I like the way you made the brake stop to attach on the backside of the mount......that is a great way to do it. Dave |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by verslagen1 on 12/23/13 at 10:24:22 if you can vibration isolate the TDI in a similar fashion as stock I think the brain box will last longer. and will the keys in any way be in danger of snapped off in a tip over? |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 12/24/13 at 05:48:45 7E45485F4E42595F444C415E2D0 wrote:
Thanks Dave 213225243B3630323966570 wrote:
Thanks verslavy, I didn't make the connection that it was rubber mounted in stock form for a reason. I'll go back and re-think, maybe just make a steel bracket that I will attach to the Ryca battery box and will support the rubber stock "saddle" that holds the brain box in the same way it was mounted to the frame. The key, once inserted in the ignition does protrude quite a bit but is still behind the front plane of the case cover, rear-set, etc. I have room in the bracket to move the whole assembly back maybe a 1/2". Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 12/24/13 at 06:23:20 Gerry: I just used the stock metal and rubber mount system, and screwed it to the side of my new battery box. I believe I cut off a bit of the mount that was not needed, and I used some flat head screws with tapered bottoms to countersunk slightly into the bracket. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 12/26/13 at 09:17:32 13282532232F343229212C33400 wrote:
Thanks for that Dave, it worked great. Gerry http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0882_zps739ea5b5.jpg |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by verslagen1 on 12/26/13 at 09:32:09 Good. I like it. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 04/10/14 at 11:43:17 Finally got back into the Ryca recently. Got the wiring pretty much the way I want it. Put it all back together, put gas in it and it fired right up. Took it for a little shake down around the block. Lot of backfiring on deceleration. I need to go through the carb tuning procedure and tweak that. I had the side cover installed per Ryca instructions with the thumb screws, don't like that much. Gonna try to come up with an alternative. Brakes work well, steering is a little quick. The bike is not a quick as I hoped, maybe it is just a matter of getting the carb right? Need to figure out what I'm gonna do about front turn signals. Was going to try and make my own but I think I'll just end up buying some from Dime City or something. Tried to put a licence plate on the Ryca mount and the slots don't line up with the holes in a Michigan motorcycle plate? The fork gaitors (from Ryca) are weather checking bad, they're only 7 months old and have been in a garage all that time. Once I get these last few things ironed out I can start painting. Thanks for reading, Gerry http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0927_zpsd572f0d2.jpg |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 04/10/14 at 13:00:17 Gerry: Glad to see you haven't abandoned the project and just took a breather. I have not ridden a RYCA with a stock engine or forks.......I have a modified engine and forks and I think mine is a blast to ride. It is not a drag racer by any means - but the torquey engine is a lot of fun on the local roads around here. I don't know what jets you have....mine ran great with a #50 pilot, #150 main, and only 2 washers on the needle. With 3 washers mine had a flat spot just off idle that made the bike not run very smooth at low throttle settings. I did see the side panel mounts on a stock RYCA.....you can do a lot better. i went for the vintage BSA type look and used some rubber washers and grommets made for fairings, and a some large head stainless screws to hold my side panels on. http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/BODY-BUSHING-KIT/ Dave |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 04/11/14 at 06:15:01 Thanks Dave Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 04/23/14 at 04:47:23 I got a chance to put about 100 miles on the bike Monday. I was really surprised how well the suspension worked and the seat to rear-set ergos. My wrists and hands were a little fatigued, I think I need to tweak the clip-ons angle and height a little bit. I got the carb adjusted I think, the bike ran well, little or no popping, no gun shot at shut down and was maybe a little quicker than my first test ride but no speed demon either. I don't think I can pass the cagers as well as I can on the Ducati or Guzzi (but they are 1000 and 1200 cc ~100 HP motorcycles) but the bike handles and rides well and was fun to flick around. One of the big things I noticed was that it has good torque and you can cruise in a higher gear and lower RPM than I expected. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 04/23/14 at 05:01:26 6C4E595952785C4E4E5F474A454F2B0 wrote:
Well I can understand why you don't feel the bike is all that quick....when you are used to bikes with 3 times the HP! I came from the other side and had been riding a 320cc Trials bike when I got my Savage....it seemed like a rocket in comparison. With a few engine upgrades the bike can become more responsive and a bit quicker - but it will never be a drag racer. A Wiseco piston, cam, Mikuni VM36 and a bit of port work and the bike becomes more sporty and yet still has plenty of low end grunt. The bike will grow on you, and some seat time will help your body adjust to the seating and handlebar positions. The hard secenario for me is a steep downhill with hard braking......there is a huge amount of force on your arms and your right hand has to still manage to apply the brake at the same time you feel like you are doing a push up! :o |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by cafecarl on 04/23/14 at 17:16:50 Hey Gerry, As usual Dave came up with a good looking fix to the Ryca side cover flaw. I say flaw because there's no way I could start those foolish thumb screws. When I did get them in, I lost one about every other ride. I finally got some 6/32" machine screws 3/4" long (1/2" would have been better) with wing nuts. I ran the screws out from the inside of the battery box with locktite. You have to spring the mounts slightly to slip them in place but the wing nuts go on so much better. I also haven't had them loosen up yet. Just another option for you. Good thread, nice ride. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 04/24/14 at 05:07:43 1E7A353830313A540 wrote:
Thanks Carl. Yea, I wondered why Ryca just didn't weld a stud on the battery box rather than a weld-nut. I thought as you did this would be much easier to get a nut or wing nut started rather than thumb screws. I have the side covers on the bike now but I struggled for many minutes getting the thumb screws mounted by pushing them into a short piece of fuel hose and using the the fuel hose as an extension to start and firm up the thumb screws. If I don't do something similar to Dave's version I will certainly consider your solution. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 04/24/14 at 05:25:45 The only difficult part about what I did was getting the studs located in a place that looked correct on the cover....and had something behind the cover to weld or tap. The top two ended up matching the frame and I just welded a long nut made for attaching threaded rod on both sides, and then I cut some of it off to make the clearance correct. The bottom left one needed a tab welded onto the RYCA belt guard, the right one ended up being a stud on the battery box I built. I was trying to get a vintage look similar to what a vintage British bike might have used, and the large stainless screws and rubber cushions don't seem to detract from the appearance. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 05/12/14 at 08:22:47 Hi, I am starting to paint the fiberglass parts. Never painted this kind of stuff before and I'm proceeding with the plan to paint using Dupli Color rattle cans and a friend is going to spray a 2 part urethane clear for me. I started out sanding and filling any small pin holes and blemishes in the surface of the fiberglass and applying 4 coats of a high build primer and then wet sanding with 800 grit paper then applying 3 coats of a sealer primer and wet sanding with 800 grit again. I then applied 3 coats of Performance White to the seal cowl and ran out of paint. I was using the can I had left over from last fall to do my paint sample. I just wanted to see some color on something... I'm trying to be patient LOL. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0953_zpsf35ad9c2.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0956_zpsb3f5925a.jpg I plan on applying at least three more coats of white on the seat cowl and 6 coats as well on the side panels. I then want to tape and paint the Sonic Blue Perl stripes on the seat cowl. Still trying to decide on a pattern for the stripes and if I want to put some kind of logo and stripe pattern on the side covers. When I disassembled the seat pan from the cowling I had a hard time with the little rubber rivet nuts (they were difficult to work with when I first assembled them too), one pushed through the fiberglass and is between the seat foam and the pan and a couple of others just spin in the holes w/o compressing. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/9Th%20Installment/DSCN0959_zpsf48df749.jpg This gives me a good excuse to remove the upholstery and re-think the attachment points. Maybe I'll epoxy in some little T-nuts, similar to Dave's Thumpin' Special build. In addition I always liked the tan colored seats that you see on Ryca's customer build photo page. Does any one here have a good resource for buying that tuck and roll or ribbed vinyl seat material? I plan on painting the tank and front fender after I finish the fiberglass parts. The tank needs a lot of prep I think. Thanks for reading, Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 06/22/14 at 15:08:12 It's about 99% done I think. Need to order some Spay Max 2K clear to finish the painting. I decided to try and find a chrome front fender and I still need to order some bar end mirrors and front turn signals. And I need to epoxy or fiberglass in some T-nuts or maybe I'll just turn some type of fastener for the seat, cowl and seat pan assembly. The rubber rivet nuts that Ryca has in the kit just are not holding for me. Had to put it together just to see how it all looks, here a some photos. Thanks for reading, Gerry http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0992_zps7de07e0b.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0989_zps1fa2e07a.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0993_zps4b2f5687.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0990_zps602d55ad.jpg |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by BalingWire on 06/23/14 at 02:36:39 Magnificent craftsmanship. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by old_rider on 06/23/14 at 08:24:46 Looks awesome Gerry .... bar ends would look nice too.... |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 06/23/14 at 09:05:33 Thanks fellas Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 08/05/14 at 08:51:13 Alright Gerry....we have left you alone for a while....but it is time for an update. Is the bike cruising around the neighborhood regularly? Dave |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 08/05/14 at 13:08:22 704B4651404C57514A424F50230 wrote:
Ha, I wish, almost though. Good timing on your question though, I was hoping to do a final installment to this build log this weekend . I just clear coated all the painted body parts this past Sunday using SprayMax 2K urethane I ordered form this site http://www.repaintsupply.com/aerosols/clear-coats/spraymax-2-part-2k-urethane-aerosol-clear-coat-p3685.html pretty good price, most places on Amazon wanted twice that for this stuff. Man did it work well, sprays nice and goes on almost like a paint gun. I used a friends paint booth and PPE to spray as I am told this 2K is quite poisonous. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/017_zps9aa7f9bb.jpg I'm in the shop now buffing it out. I'll put it all back together in the next couple of days, I have the bar end mirrors and the new front turn signals installed. I'll have a post this weekend with finished photos and a couple of details on some other mods I did recently, oh yea, will have a nearly new front drive pulley coming from one of members (thanks Chris) soon as well. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 08/05/14 at 13:31:19 It looks great! When the clear is on and buffed out it really makes the bike seem less like a project in process....and a finished motorcycle. Good luck on the weekend completion...pretty exciting! Dave |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 08/05/14 at 15:42:41 Thanks Dave. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by NickGann on 08/06/14 at 13:45:12 This is insane! Maaaaaan how awesome it would be to possess all the skills needed to make a machine this beautiful. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by GBG on 08/06/14 at 15:21:30 I'm envious of the talent, the shop, and the vision. Great looking build. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 08/07/14 at 13:55:23 585F555D51575858360 wrote:
57727771667562100 wrote:
Thanks much fellas. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 08/10/14 at 15:41:01 Well, the bike is pretty much done. Only thing left is some carb tweaking, I think it is running a little lean. And I purchased a nearly new front drive pulley from a member here, thanks Chris! I expect that to arrive tomorrow. To bring you up to date, I mentioned previously that I wanted to change how the side panels were attached. Taking some advice from a member here I used locktite to attache some studs where the thumb screws would go and machined some of my own thumb "nuts". http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0960_zpsf80af2b5.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0961_zps8e75281c.jpg Another item I wanted to change was the rubber rivet nuts in the seat assembly. Again I machined some alternatives and epoxied them into the seat shell. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0994_zpse550b9bb.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN0997_zps4d444b1d.jpg Both of these solutions worked out very well. Here are sme photos and a little movie of the finished bike. I need a better camera, the photos don't show how nice and shiny it is :) Thanks all for the support, advice and interest. Gerry http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN1013_zps1fed0e1d.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN1017_zpse8f0ef3c.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN1014_zps20d30a93.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN1016_zps9ca26180.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN1019_zps6d351e8b.jpg http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/lotus23bsr/Public%20Album/Ryca%20CS-1%20Build/10th%20Installment/DSCN1018_zps2baeeb77.jpg [flash]http://www.youtube.com/v/lBI15xSnKeg?version=3&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/lBI15xSnKeg[/flash] |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Spamy on 08/10/14 at 23:19:02 Looks beautiful. Sooo clean. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by GBG on 08/11/14 at 05:38:11 That's a great looking bike. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by splash07 on 08/11/14 at 05:50:50 when are you going to start offering triples like that? ;) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 08/11/14 at 06:10:49 3B3824293B20787F480 wrote:
And if he made it with the top yoke having clamps for the tubes....so you could adjust the height.......that would be a winner! Dave |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by splash07 on 08/11/14 at 06:20:55 7A414C5B4A465D5B4048455A290 wrote:
And if he made it with the top yoke having clamps for the tubes....so you could adjust the height.......that would be a winner! Dave[/quote] +1! yes please |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Michael L on 08/11/14 at 06:41:21 Beautifull. Those colors and stripes does wonders. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 08/11/14 at 12:47:56 Thanks fellas :) If anyone would like a top yoke like mine or with clamps for the tubes I'm open to discussion. PM me. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 08/12/14 at 03:28:17 664453535872564444554D404F45210 wrote:
If you get a top yoke with clamps....the you could drop the tubes 1.5" and replace that that 2" spacer with a 0.5" spacer for some extra preload......and get most of your fork travel back. And on a side note......RYCA owners may want to remove their tail light, take it apart, and seal all the seams with RTV. Mine has been in a few rain storms on the Dragon runs, and my tail light is full of condensation and the running light has stopped working. The rear tire just saturates that little light with a constant stream of water when the road is wet (What misses the tail light goes up my backside and the back of my helmet!). ;D |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by LANCER on 08/12/14 at 04:01:36 5370616D79000 wrote:
Yep, that is THE PROBLEM for sure. This beautiful bike is just way too clean. Even after I clean them, mine are never this clean. One thing for sure though, a clean bike is definitely faster; less derby to slow down the efficient flow of air over the sleek body of that fine machine. Oh yea ! For sure. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by gizzo on 08/12/14 at 18:15:46 Wow, that looks like a brand new bike. Nice work. (I'm a firm believer in leaving my bikes with a protective layer of filth. Mine will never be that clean either :-[ ) |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by rapfohl on 08/13/14 at 09:29:13 Just two quick questions for a Ryca build vet. Sorry if they have been beaten to death. 1. The swingarm mod. From what I understand it is for tires that have an OD of greater than 26". Did you have to do it for your tires? They look like the same Kenda K671's that I like and normally ran on my old street bike. Ryca shows the K671's OD as 25.25" 2. When you go to mount the seat, does it only attach in the front, and then just rests on the cut seat tubes? Or does it somehow attach to those cut tubes? The CS2 seat looks like it just rests on there too. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Dave on 08/13/14 at 09:45:02 617263757C7B7F130 wrote:
The stock swingarm works with any "modern" tire that fits the 18x2.50 rim that is most often used. The problem with the vintage tires is the square tread profile and large diameter contacts the stock swing arm. If you are going to ride the bike in any kind of a "hustle"...use a modern tire. Unfortunately I believe the current fad is to put too wide a tire on the narrow rim. A 110/80-18 tire should be on the 18x2.50 rear rim, and a 90/90-18 front tire should be on the front 18x2.15 rim. This is plenty of tire for the weight and horsepower of the bike. If you want to run a 130/70 rear tire - then mount a 18x3.50 rear rim....which is what the tire is made for. The front 18x2.15 (19x2.15) rim can run a 100/90 tire OK. Here is a fitment chart for the Bridgestone Batlax BT-45, and the chart matches what most other tire folks publish. http://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/battlax/bt45.html When you put the "too wide" tire on the narrow rim - it rolls the tread over onto the sidewall and makes the tread profile too round. You therefore cancel out the efforts the tire manufacturer has taken to make the tire have a small footprint when vertical, and a large footprint while banked over. The rear of the RYCA seat pan attaches to the same rear bolt holes that the stock seat did - but it does also rest on the cut off frame tubes if you cut them accurately.....there a gap if you trim off too much and the bolt holes will do the work. The front of the seat pan attaches with the same two bolts that mount the fuel tank. Dave |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 08/13/14 at 13:44:16 09323F2839352E28333B36295A0 wrote:
The stock swingarm works with any "modern" tire that fits the 18x2.50 rim that is most often used. The problem with the vintage tires is the square tread profile and large diameter contacts the stock swing arm. If you are going to ride the bike in any kind of a "hustle"...use a modern tire. Unfortunately I believe the current fad is to put too wide a tire on the narrow rim. A 110/80-18 tire should be on the 18x2.50 rear rim, and a 90/90-18 front tire should be on the front 18x2.15 rim. This is plenty of tire for the weight and horsepower of the bike. If you want to run a 130/70 rear tire - then mount a 18x3.50 rear rim....which is what the tire is made for. The front 18x2.15 (19x2.15) rim can run a 100/90 tire OK. Here is a fitment chart for the Bridgestone Batlax BT-45, and the chart matches what most other tire folks publish. http://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/battlax/bt45.html When you put the "too wide" tire on the narrow rim - it rolls the tread over onto the sidewall and makes the tread profile too round. You therefore cancel out the efforts the tire manufacturer has taken to make the tire have a small footprint when vertical, and a large footprint while banked over. The rear of the RYCA seat pan attaches to the same rear bolt holes that the stock seat did - but it does also rest on the cut off frame tubes if you cut them accurately.....there a gap if you trim off too much and the bolt holes will do the work. The front of the seat pan attaches with the same two bolts that mount the fuel tank. Dave [/quote] Hi Rapfohl, Have you seen the Ryca build videos on YouTube? There are quit a few and are very helpful. You can access them from Ryca's web page... http://www.rycamotors.com/resources/index.html This one covers the seat attachment towards the end of the video... [flash]http://www.youtube.com/v/7U0IVWqmJSA[/flash] As far as being too clean, this bike only has 64 miles on it, give me some time to grody it up ;D |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by rapfohl on 08/13/14 at 16:49:10 Thanks for your comments and the link! A really great looking bike. I like the key position. When I do my tracker style I want to shave that hole in the tank. Did you fab the pieces yourself? |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by atomikchicken on 03/02/15 at 09:04:01 I am not sure why people are in awe here? I have a drill, skill saw, dremel, sawzall and an angel grinder. I will make any one here one of those tree clamp things for a great price. Just PM me. What a great build. Once I sell a few of my tree things I will PM you Gerry. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/23/15 at 07:43:04 250710101B31150707160E030C06620 wrote:
I'm pulling this one back from the time machine. Did you every come up with an alternative solution for the thumb screws? I had to change the spark plug this weekend. A fairly straight forward job; remove side covers, seat pan and tank...except it took 10 minutes to get the side covers off and 30 minutes to get them back on. What should have been a 10 minute job start-to-finish took an hour due to those dumb thumb screws. I was thinking of opening the end of the slot on the bracket, this way the thumb screws wouldn't have to be removed, only loosed, to remove and replace the side covers. But if anyone has thought of a better mousetrap...I'd sure like to hear about it. |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by verslagen1 on 03/23/15 at 08:30:37 These might be a bit tall for the application, but they are quick to remove. drill a 1/4" hole, a rubber pad between parts to provide some tension, push the button while pushing in to the hole, release the button and a final push to lock. I'd use the mushroom headed one, about 3/8" grip. http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/ForSale/Lockingquickpins.jpg |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 03/23/15 at 09:59:32 747E7A707B72767F212723130 wrote:
I'm pulling this one back from the time machine. Did you every come up with an alternative solution for the thumb screws? I had to change the spark plug this weekend. A fairly straight forward job; remove side covers, seat pan and tank...except it took 10 minutes to get the side covers off and 30 minutes to get them back on. What should have been a 10 minute job start-to-finish took an hour due to those dumb thumb screws. I was thinking of opening the end of the slot on the bracket, this way the thumb screws wouldn't have to be removed, only loosed, to remove and replace the side covers. But if anyone has thought of a better mousetrap...I'd sure like to hear about it.[/quote] Yes, see my reply #53 in this thread. Gerry |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/23/15 at 10:13:56 486A7D7D765C786A6A7B636E616B0F0 wrote:
Now I have :) Now that I've had some time to ponder this, I have some easy solutions: 1) rather then open the slot, I could just drill a 1/2" hole near the end. This would allow the bracket to slide over the thumb screw where it could drop into the groove, and then be tightened, or 2) create a stud from a 6-32 screw that is threaded from inside the battery box. I could then use a 6-32 wing nut on the outside. This way I wont have to blindly fish around for the slot and hole. Is this basically what you created? |
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Title: Re: Another Ryca Build Log Post by Gerry on 03/24/15 at 04:33:06 2923272D262F2B227C7A7E4E0 wrote:
Now I have :) Now that I've had some time to ponder this, I have some easy solutions: 1) rather then open the slot, I could just drill a 1/2" hole near the end. This would allow the bracket to slide over the thumb screw where it could drop into the groove, and then be tightened, or 2) create a stud from a 6-32 screw that is threaded from inside the battery box. I could then use a 6-32 wing nut on the outside. This way I wont have to blindly fish around for the slot and hole. Is this basically what you created?[/quote] Yes, on #2 Gerry |
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