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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> inner tube,tire question /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1367630135 Message started by DaThump on 05/03/13 at 18:15:35 |
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Title: inner tube,tire question Post by DaThump on 05/03/13 at 18:15:35 I've been searching for the last hour and half for new tires and tubes My ls650 is at a friends,so I can't "eyeball" them what is the stock value stems for the 2007 s40? there size? tr-4 standard 8mm for front and pv-78 for the rear is what I've found, but I really want to make sure. and the best/correct size of tubes? I'd like any opinions, please first do I really need new inner tubes? mine are only six years old, but I've read quite a bit about old tubes conforming to the old tires... but really, can tubes be that sensitive. I'm going to change the tire/tubes my self, what about the balancing? I've decided on the shinko 712 100/90-19 front and 140/90-15 rear mainly for price and good reviews I haven't heard anything about the rear tire rubbing, anybody know different? Would you change the rim strips? any recommendations and/or advice is much appreciated Kev |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/03/13 at 18:29:17 If the old tubes are in new condition, reuse them. If they have any worn, cracked, wrinkled, or discolored areas, get new ones. They're cheap. Get new rim strips, they are REAL cheap. The new ones will be more elastic, fit tighter, and stay in place better when remounting the tire. When you get the tires/tubes off, don't be surprised if you have a few evenings of rust removal and truing in store for you. -- Tolerate no rust at all. I was shocked, saddened, then pissed at how awful the rims were on my Savage when I took the tires off. See reply 36 in the Double RYCA Build thread. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1304722902/36 -- My stock wheels had a lot of radial and lateral runout. REal Keystone Kops stuff. Get a real nipple wrench (not a crescent wrench) and get them true to within 1/32" or so maximum. A real wheel shop will get them to 1/100" or so. This is time well spent,.. but a necessary and onerous chore for wire-spoke wheels. I always use a liquid internal balancer of some sort. PJ1 Balance Plus, for example. Easy to do, forever balanced, and flat-tire protection from nails and such. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Serowbot on 05/03/13 at 19:02:12 I don't reuse tubes... I used to on dirt bikes, but not on street bikes... (my dirt bike would get 5 or 6 flats before blowing out completely in less than a year)... It's not so much that they set a memory for the old tire,.. but, after 6 yrs. inflated, they don't deflate as much as a new one... and this can cause them to inflate a little off in the new tire... (maybe a little twisted in places)... 6yr old rubber is pretty old, and maybe dried out ... I like my Shinko, same size as yours on the rear,... It should fit fine... Get a rear tube with a 90' valve stem... makes inflation and checks much easier... pointed, brake side... Liquid balancing is a personal choice.. I don't like it... Tire stores hate it..(messy if they deal with a flat)... (Some will refuse to deal with it, because it will make a mess of their changer)...(same for those bb ball balancers,.. they can go all over the place in a shop)... You better warn them if you bring them a liquid balanced tire, or risk a buttwuppin'... ;D... |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by apache snow on 05/03/13 at 19:10:57 Yeah, I don't like liquid balancers for the same reasion. 8-) |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by runwyrlph on 05/03/13 at 19:52:42 I have used 140-90-15 kenda challengers on the rear since 2008 fits fine with no mods; no rubbing - i think i just put the the 3rd kenda on a couple weeks ago. I think i put a new tube in about every other one. I usually try to have a new tube on hand, because i've been known to pinch the durn thing when mounting the new tire. >:( I have not balanced or trued. I have used sand paper and rustoleum on the rim, and have reused the rim strip every time. valve stems? don't they come with the tube? I'm not at all trying to say that mine is the best way to do it, just it's what i do. ps If handling suffers from wheels not being trued/balanced, I can't tell. but i'm not a pro. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/03/13 at 19:57:25 I love liquid balancers. -- They work waaayyy better, never go out of balance, seal small holes, and they are cheap. -- I never let another person fondle my motorcycles in any way, including tire work. I'd sooner let them fondle my current wife. -- Since I don't take the bike to a shop so they can charge me triple as much for lower quality work, I could care less about their opinions of tube goo. -- Savages use tubes. The goo stays in the tube, so,.. it is not at all messy. Let's start another balancer war, eh? |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Serowbot on 05/03/13 at 20:11:57 Good for you, Gyro... I was just letting others know, that various goop in tubes is not appreciated by many shops... |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 04:06:25 4C5A4D50485D504B3F0 wrote:
Yeah, good for me. ;-) I was just letting others know that various goops in tubes stay in the tubes, works real well, and unless someone tries to squirt it out the valve stem, "not appreciated" isn't a factor. The main reason shops don't appreciate it is they then cannot charge $5 or $10 to do 2 min worth of "balancing." |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by ToesNose on 05/04/13 at 04:10:59 Also get yourself angles valve stems for ease of checking air pressure and filling the tires ;) |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DavidOfMA on 05/04/13 at 04:36:08 1823293F02233F294C0 wrote:
How do you get an angled valve stem for a tube? I went looking for some kind of attachment and nothing I found seemed to work. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Dave on 05/04/13 at 05:04:15 434548484C454E49434255270 wrote:
How do you get an angled valve stem for a tube? I went looking for some kind of attachment and nothing I found seemed to work. [/quote] When buying a new tube you can find one that the valve stem is made with a 90 degree bend. For an existing tube....you have to do something like this: http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/ANODIZED-TEAM-GP-VALVE-STEMS-UNIVERSAL-FIT.html |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by runwyrlph on 05/04/13 at 08:01:43 427C776A676A67050 wrote:
I'll have to look for that stuff. I'm a big fan of "easy to do" |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 08:03:34 5A5C5151555C57505A5B4C3E0 wrote:
How do you get an angled valve stem for a tube? I went looking for some kind of attachment and nothing I found seemed to work. [/quote] You just buy it that way. Have a look at this page on the Dennis Kirk website: https://www.denniskirk.com/goldwing/tubes-rim-strips-and-valve-stems |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Charon on 05/04/13 at 08:07:33 When you mount the new tire, puff some talcum powder in it before you install the tube. That is an old mechanic's trick, probably now forgotten in the days of universal tubeless tires on cars. The talc is slippery and allows the tube to move around just a little inside the tire without chafing. For first inflation, leave the valve core out. Inflate to seat the beads, allow the tire to deflate, then bounce or roll it around a little to let the tube move inside the tire. Install the valve core and inflate, and you should be good to go. I suppose we can now get into a discussion about the best scent for the talcum powder. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 08:24:47 If the talcum powder gets underneath the rim strip it might move around some while you are putting the tube and tire back in place. If the rim strip is an old one that is not very elastic anymore, it'll likely move even more. You'll have to pay close attention to make sure it is in place before seating the tire. I'd recommend all those things Charon said, but I always use new rim strips, and make sure none of the talcum powder gets underneath the rim strip. The talcum powder's main value is to let the tube get comfortable inside the tire. Another tip is to inflate the tube a bit (just up to normal size) and let it sit for a while before installing. That way it might shed some wrinkles/folds, and get used to the idea of being round. Another tip is to heat the tire before installing. Let it sit out in the sun for 20 minutes before you install it. It'll be a lot more flexible for a few minutes. No sunlight?,... put it in garbage bag, and keep the bag inflated with a hair dryer or small space heater for 10 - 20 minutes. A cardboard box large enough to hold the tire will do as well. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DaThump on 05/04/13 at 09:22:00 417F7469646964060 wrote:
I didn't even think about truing the wheel :-? , luckily I've had experience with bicycle wheels and from what I've been reading, motorcycle wheels are easier. That's an awesome job on the wheels from the link...lots of time and effort tho. Why not just use Phosphoric acid? cause of the pitting? Do you true inside the forks? I'm thinking for the rear wheel that would be very difficult. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DaThump on 05/04/13 at 09:42:27 3A2C3B263E2B263D490 wrote:
I'm trying to be toooo cheap.. the stock IRC tires were alarming,I was almost shocked to see so many cracks and rubber rot for a six yr old tire... then I rode it 250 miles to home... Shrug. tires made it 3A2C3B263E2B263D490 wrote:
thanks for the heads up 3A2C3B263E2B263D490 wrote:
lol I've been there |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DaThump on 05/04/13 at 10:01:07 2F3826282824324B0 wrote:
That was my thinking, until I went to order them. Bikemaster tubes had six different valve stems, but most didn't fit the wheel size. three did. It took some searching to find the 'right' ones, probably all three would have worked but I really didn't want any surprises or delays. 2F3826282824324B0 wrote:
I wasn't going to balance or true myself, I doubt I'd notice most imbalances. But I might as well seeing how I'll have the wheel off. sigh. so much for doing it the lazy way |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DaThump on 05/04/13 at 10:15:08 5D6368757875781A0 wrote:
I've stayed away from any sealant/goo in my tires since I was scolded by a tire man as a teenager twenty yrs ago. I didn't even know about liquid balancers Looks like "I's gots me some mur learnin to do" |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DaThump on 05/04/13 at 10:31:30 7B50594A5756380 wrote:
I was pretty sure you were talking about baby powder... But I had to 'google' talcum powder to make sure. I've switched tires using tire irons on a car radial tire. I'm hoping the motorcycle tire is waaayy easier. I looked on youtube, it looks easy. I guess I'll find out 7B50594A5756380 wrote:
;D |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DavidOfMA on 05/04/13 at 10:41:59 0C3239242924294B0 wrote:
How do you get an angled valve stem for a tube? I went looking for some kind of attachment and nothing I found seemed to work. [/quote] You just buy it that way. Have a look at this page on the Dennis Kirk website: https://www.denniskirk.com/goldwing/tubes-rim-strips-and-valve-stems[/quote] Well, too bad I didn't know about that a month ago, when I got a new tire and tube. Good to know for future reference, though. Thanks! |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by DaThump on 05/04/13 at 10:42:59 1F212A373A373A580 wrote:
Do you think I can get by with two 24" tire irons and a couple of C-clamps? I normally like working on my motorcycles myself...but I do know a shop that will do both tires... remove, balance and mount for $70 |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Serowbot on 05/04/13 at 11:49:46 If I were going to mount my own tires,... I think I'd try this... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI[/media] |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by verslagen1 on 05/04/13 at 12:12:55 took him longer to get the bag out then to mount the tire. ;D |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 18:17:46 My buddy Jud and I tried that garbage bag trick for way too long before we gave up. We had four tires to mount. It sure looked like a good way to make an awful job much less awful, but it doesn't work on our tire/wheel combinations. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Digger on 05/04/13 at 18:24:59 48737E6978746F69727A77681B0 wrote:
I'm thinkin' that those things look like they were made for use with tubeless tires..... :-/ |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 18:29:11 I just mounted a tire today on the RYCA bike. I finally got the wheel back from them, and after an evening of truing and deburring all the shards of aluminum their wheel grinder left on the wheel, I mounted the tire,.. a 4.00-18 Avon Speedmaster. I hate this kind of work,.. it's not all that hard, it is just slow and tedious and tiring. Here's a pic to illustrate how to check that your rim strip is still in place. Go around the rim with the tire tool about every 8", move the bead away from the rim, and look down inside there to make sure the edge of the rim strip is in place. The pic is not all that great, I had to add some arrows to point out the exact edge. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/rimstrip01_zpsc51bd4b2.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/Motorcycle/RYCA%20CS-1%20LS650%20S40%20Savage/rimstrip01_zpsc51bd4b2.jpg.html) Funny thing,... that tube had a full bottle of PJ-1 Balance Plus in it. I wonder what is all the mess these guys are talking about? I didn't see one drop of the stuff when I took the tire off, nor when I put it back on. Hmmm. Maybe I'm not doing it right.. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Digger on 05/04/13 at 18:34:56 4678736E636E63010 wrote:
Gy, The point is that it makes a mess if you've had a leak. I used to use that stuff back in the day (the '70's). If you ever do get a puncture that the goop won't prevent leakage for (and, it does happen, trust me), you've got a mess on your hands... And, God help you if you try to patch a tube that has the goop in it. You'll also have to trust me on that one! |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Serowbot on 05/04/13 at 18:54:11 Until it happens to Gyro,.. it doesn't exist to Gyro... :-?... This is why we're all imagining petcock problems... We're allowing ourselves to believe it's possible... I feel the same way about prostate problems... I'm figurin' if I refuse to believe in it,.. it can never happen to me... Workin' so far... ;)... |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 19:06:32 547977777562100 wrote:
Gy, The point is that it makes a mess if you've had a leak. I used to use that stuff back in the day (the '70's). If you ever do get a puncture that the goop won't prevent leakage for (and, it does happen, trust me), you've got a mess on your hands... And, God help you if you try to patch a tube that has the goop in it. You'll also have to trust me on that one![/quote] I had a Yamaha YM-1 in the 1960s that had a nail in the back tire (for how long I don't know) and it was holding normal pressure. When I pulled the nail out (a stupid thing to do at the time because I was not home), it hissed for a few seconds then stopped. I rode it home,.. a trip of about 10 city miles (San Jose to Sunnyvale). I pulled the tube out, and patched it,.. but I'll admit it took two times to get it right.,... just arrange the tube so it doesn't skoosh when you clean the surface for the rubber cement. I ended up having the tube on my knee with the hole on top and the rest of the tube hanging down. There was a little leakage inside the tire, but a paper towel took care of that. Yes, the goo can leak out of a hole, but all the advantages of having the liquid balancer far outweighs solder wrapped around a spoke. -- Every time I ride, I get all the advantages,.. permanent balance, perfect balance, slow leak protection, easy to install, cheap, only fool with it once. -- So,.. every decade or so I puncture a tire and have to deal with the goop,.. and usually that is not a problem because I do my own work, and the tube-tire bikes are no trouble at all. Yes, the tubeless tires are messier. I can put up with that once every ten years to enable living every day with all the advantages. Another issue that puzzles me is why there seems to be so many folks here scared to death of their dealer. If a guy is worried about getting a butt whippin for using PJ-1, he needs to find a new dealer. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 19:21:03 3C2A3D20382D203B4F0 wrote:
"Until it happens to Gyro,.. it doesn't exist to Gyro... :-?..." Exactly wrong. One of the things I can do is change my mind in a heartbeat with new valid info. That is why both RYCA bikes have manual petcocks,.... Raptor petcocks. This is moot, however, since it has happened to me a few times. I have always used a liquid sealer/balancer, since, oh, the mid 1960s. I can remember four times in the hundreds of thousands of motorcycle miles, I had a puncture. -- Once, I was stupid enough to pull out the nail, but the hole sealed up within a few seconds so I could finish the ride home. -- A couple other times I noticed the nail, and just left it there until I got home. -- Once, on a Gold Wing, (tubeless tire) I drove over something that cut the tire. It went flat in about 30 seconds while at speed. I was able to get it stopped before it went fully flat. Yes,... I'll admit to it being messy to get the old tire off. I can afford a roll of paper towels. I still maintain that for all the advantages enjoyed on every single ride, it is well worth putting up with having to buy a roll of paper towels every ten or fifteen years. |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Gyrobob on 05/04/13 at 19:40:04 766E6A1D0 wrote:
I didn't even think about truing the wheel :-? , luckily I've had experience with bicycle wheels and from what I've been reading, motorcycle wheels are easier. That's an awesome job on the wheels from the link...lots of time and effort tho. Why not just use Phosphoric acid? cause of the pitting? Do you true inside the forks? I'm thinking for the rear wheel that would be very difficult. [/quote] I true the wheels with the axle clamped in a vise on the workbench. Be sure to use some soft metal (aluminum?) between the jaws of the vise and the axle. I have the rim close to the edge of the workbench so I can hold markers steady near the edge of the rim to mark the high spots. -- Make sure you use genuine nipple wrenches, not open end wrenches. Rounded off nipples have their place,... they are not for motorcycle wheels. -- Before you get started, loosen every nipple a 1/2 turn, then tighten it 1/4 turn. This breaks all the joints loose so the whole wheel can react to tuning a few spokes. To get the tire on and off, use some sort of tool made to handle beads on motorcycle tires. I have a Breeezer, but I don't think they are available anymore. It came with a tire spoon as shown below. Over the past 40 years that set has been used hundreds of times on my bikes and friends' bikes. We've done 22 removes/installs just during the Double RYCA build. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/Gyrobob_theOriginal/TiretoolsBreeezerandspoon01_zps2820ff3d.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/Gyrobob_theOriginal/media/TiretoolsBreeezerandspoon01_zps2820ff3d.jpg.html) Stubby tire tools are similar: http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/stubby-tire-tools/ I'm considering getting a pair of the Stubby tire tools because they are plastic so they are lighter, and will be less likely to scratch an aluminum rim. Amazon has them at the moment. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056BT9FK/ref=asc_df_B0056BT9FK2499481?smid=A122T64JJB9KPU&tag=pgmp-48-97-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0056BT9FK |
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Title: Re: inner tube,tire question Post by Serowbot on 05/05/13 at 00:46:17 1628233E333E33510 wrote:
Well,... I still refuse to believe in prostate problems... :-?... |
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