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Message started by wambr on 03/29/13 at 02:07:51

Title: the re-use of the head gasket
Post by wambr on 03/29/13 at 02:07:51

when repairing the engine (and the more exact the cylinder and cylinder head) you should replace the cylinder head gasket.gasket, cylinder block is made of several layers of metal, covered with high-temperature sealant. The sealant stick to the surfaces and the removal pads without the destruction of the insulated layer is impossible. But as it is not always possible to order a new gasket or want to make it more subtle, to slightly increase the compression ratio, that is the way of the restoration of the old gasket.
The idea, in General, easy - clean the old sealant, to strike a new and set the seal. As a sealant suitable heat-resistant paint. And since I wanted to make a gasket thinner, then had to cut off the rivets and pull out the middle of the metal layer.
http://moto.swissblog.ru/wp-content/uploads/tech/2011_02_14_18.46.02.jpg
Clean the old sealant with the mating surfaces. At the same time, will not be superfluous remove carbon from the valves and piston. This makes sense if we plan to eliminate the cause of formation of the deposits, i.e. correctly configure the mixture, restore the compression etc.
http://moto.swissblog.ru/wp-content/uploads/tech/2011_02_14_19.23.00.jpgFor deleting old sealant I used acetone (you can use and other solvent). The contact surfaces was clean by the rag with acetone. And here's the piston valve and experienced the soft brass brushes, which was attached to the drill. Although the pre-most large pieces of carbon was clean by acetone, after which they were removed with a screwdriver. There should be careful and not to leave the details of the deep scratches.
http://moto.swissblog.ru/wp-content/uploads/tech/2011_02_14_19.22.50.jpg
i clean  each layer pads from old sealant . The average metal layer I threw it out, so I had to clean only two metal plates.
http://moto.swissblog.ru/wp-content/uploads/tech/2011_02_15_19.50.20.jpg
As a sealant I bought paint for exhaust manifolds, which is made on the basis of silicone and must be able to withstand temperature up to 800 degrees. In principle, this is a bust, but the price of such paint is not very different from the value of the ordinary.
http://moto.swissblog.ru/wp-content/uploads/tech/2011_02_15_13.16.10.jpg
Covered by metal plates gaskets, cylinder block two layers of paint, while giving each layer to dry up within 30 minutes. Spray paint must be from a distance of about 25 cm, with the need to follow to first, not formed drips of paint; secondly, the paint layer must be sufficient to ensure that individual drops of ink merged together, and did not form on the surface of a lot of separate drops of paint.
http://moto.swissblog.ru/wp-content/uploads/tech/2011_02_15_19.55.53.jpg
Covered by metal plates gaskets, cylinder block two layers of paint, while giving each layer to dry up within 30 minutes. Spray paint must be from a distance of about 25 cm, with the need to follow to first, not formed drips of paint; secondly, the paint layer must be sufficient to ensure that individual drops of ink merged together, and did not form on the surface of a lot of separate drops of paint.
PS all of the patch did not I. but the method was tested by me personally.(I think, it may be useful)
p.p.s. the picture for some reason not displayed. guys may be you'll have to insert pictures. :( references to them are listed in my post.

Title: Re: the re-use of the head gasket
Post by Oldfeller on 03/29/13 at 04:51:09


The 3 plate gasket has 3 distinct layers for a purpose.  The outer two are rim dimpled with the bulge oriented out, the center flat plate gives a rim sealing surface to the outer two plates.

The dimple areas in the outer plates are spring steel and they flex during flattening/closure to provide a spring sealing effect.   Our bike needs a spring seal as the area covered is LARGE, over 4 inches and our engine stack up is known to move vertically during heat up and cool down.  We are sealing a moving target in our engine, in other words.

Leaving out the flat center plate gives no surface for the two outer edges of the dimple plates to seat against.  The outer edges of the dimple will just overlap each other if there is no center plate.  Half the spring pressure effect is lost accordingly and a potential gas path is provided on the inner edge surfaces of the round bore seal dimple.

So, your idea to recover the plates is good but your method has a flaw -- taking out the center plate is a bad idea.   Using a silicone gasket sealant is likely going to work better long term than using a hardening sort of exhaust paint since the gasket seal areas do flex and move a tiny bit during heat up and cool down of the engine stack.

There is a head gasket recovery method already in Tech, BTW, that has been proven out over years and has even gotten some commercial additions by head gasket vendors saying you can buy their product (tuned to fit your various oversized bore condition) for $22 a gasket.  So you have a range of price options now.

(original method here)

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1296648845/0#0




Title: Re: the re-use of the head gasket
Post by wambr on 03/29/13 at 10:32:50

I beg your pardon Oldfeller. I just inexperienced and because of the difficulties with the English do not read your post. it is possible that your method is better, but so far I have not felt myself I found this article on another forum and decided to share...

Title: Re: the re-use of the head gasket
Post by Oldfeller on 03/29/13 at 14:26:02


No pardon needed to beg, I am just pointing out the plate and the sealant differences so folks can make properly informed choices.

It is all moot anyway as one of the moderators will come along during a Tech review and put them all together in the original indexed thread anyway.

Our Tech treads just keep on getting corrected and appended until they become just like an encyclopedia, complete and correct.


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