SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Blowing Fuses /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1289748823 Message started by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 07:33:43 |
Title: Blowing Fuses Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 07:33:43 Well, I got the carb back together with new o-rings and fuel mixture assembly after installing raptor petcock. Runs great now after tuning carb; however, before installing the tank and seat I decided to apply dielectric grease to all the electrical connections. Afterwards I switch the key and nothing. I had blown a fuse. Now every time I use the horn, I blow a fuse. I swear this thing is possessed, lol. |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by verslagen1 on 11/14/10 at 07:41:30 It seems you have a smear of grease connecting 2 contacts. |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 07:53:46 52415657484543414A15240 wrote:
Very well could be; strange thing is I didn't mess directly with the horn or wiring at all, so I checked for a pinched wire and found nothing. The fuse holds with the horn wiring pulled off regardless of the brake lights, signal lights, or any attempt to blow it. I now need to trace the route of the wiring associated with the horn imo. |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by Phelonius on 11/14/10 at 08:48:38 Maybe the horn is blown. Phelonius |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 08:54:39 162E232A29282F3335460 wrote:
Worked fine before I did the carb and petcock, and it works fine the first few times I blow it then the fuse blows. I think I'll go check all the electrical connections and clean some of the grease out. Bike runs great now thanks to all the suggestions here. Odd thing is though when I disassembled the carb, I found a 145 main jet but no plastic washer whatsoever in the slide assembly. I have completely eliminated the backfire/popping though even when I shut it off, no poof. I am happy even if I have to leave the horn unhooked, jk. I'll figure it out eventually. |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by Routy on 11/14/10 at 10:17:37 If you stopped the backfiring completely, its done, finished, there is no hope left for it. It ain't no savage no more, its just another plain ole motorcycle now :'( |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 10:32:40 454A504B57514240484651230 wrote:
Well, just dang it then. I didn't do it on purpose if it matters. |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by ebonysresearch on 11/14/10 at 15:40:19 Maybe dont blow the horn? Or lift your tank back up and look for a rub point in the harness? Or just unplug the horn? |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by Digger on 11/17/10 at 19:59:05 62716667787573717A25140 wrote:
I believe that to be highly unlikely. The OP stated that he was using a dielectric grease. Plus, we're talking about a 12 volt system here....hardly enough push to throw much of an arc. |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by Digger on 11/17/10 at 20:09:20 2D2D677562757371140 wrote:
You might consider stripper 'er down again and wiggling the horn wires to see if you can find a short. I made a tool to assist me in doing wiggle checks on the wires that saves me from blowing out lots of fuses during the test. It is a license plate light fixture and harness I removed from an old pickup truck eighteen years ago when I was putting a rear bumper on it: http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterE.jpg I cut off the OEM connector and crimped on some spade connectors to the ends of the two wires: http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterLeadsE.jpg You can see where I filed down the spade connectors so that they would fit into the holder for the fuse. I pull the fuse on the suspect circuit, plug my tester leads into the fuse holder, turn on the ignition switch, and wiggle away. If I find a short to ground, the light gets really bright. I do, however, find it useful to first disconnect the headlight and taillight bulbs to keep the test lamp from being too bright all of the time. IHTH! |
Title: Re: Blowing Fuses Post by 99savage on 11/18/10 at 06:31:44 5A7779797B6C1E0 wrote:
You might consider stripper 'er down again and wiggling the horn wires to see if you can find a short. I made a tool to assist me in doing wiggle checks on the wires that saves me from blowing out lots of fuses during the test. It is a license plate light fixture and harness I removed from an old pickup truck eighteen years ago when I was putting a rear bumper on it: http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterE.jpg I cut off the OEM connector and crimped on some spade connectors to the ends of the two wires: http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterLeadsE.jpg You can see where I filed down the spade connectors so that they would fit into the holder for the fuse. I pull the fuse on the suspect circuit, plug my tester leads into the fuse holder, turn on the ignition switch, and wiggle away. If I find a short to ground, the light gets really bright. I do, however, find it useful to first disconnect the headlight and taillight bulbs to keep the test lamp from being too bright all of the time. IHTH![/quote] Thanks for the advice but I can't see the pics. I pretty sure my short is in a connector because each time I disconnect and reconnect, the "short" takes longer to cause a problem. |
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |