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Message started by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 07:33:43

Title: Blowing Fuses
Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 07:33:43

Well, I got the carb back together with new o-rings and fuel mixture assembly after installing raptor petcock. Runs great now after tuning carb; however, before installing the tank and seat I decided to apply dielectric grease to all the electrical connections. Afterwards I switch the key and nothing. I had blown a fuse. Now every time I use the horn, I blow a fuse. I swear this thing is possessed, lol.

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by verslagen1 on 11/14/10 at 07:41:30

It seems you have a smear of grease connecting 2 contacts.

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 07:53:46


52415657484543414A15240 wrote:
It seems you have a smear of grease connecting 2 contacts.

Very well could be; strange thing is I didn't mess directly with the horn or wiring at all, so I checked for a pinched wire and found nothing. The fuse holds with the horn wiring pulled off regardless of the brake lights, signal lights, or any attempt to blow it. I now need to trace the route of the wiring associated with the horn imo.

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by Phelonius on 11/14/10 at 08:48:38

Maybe the horn is blown.

Phelonius

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 08:54:39


162E232A29282F3335460 wrote:
Maybe the horn is blown.

Phelonius

Worked fine before I did the carb and petcock, and it works fine the first few times I blow it then the fuse blows. I think I'll go check all the electrical connections and clean some of the grease out. Bike runs great now thanks to all the suggestions here. Odd thing is though when I disassembled the carb, I found a 145 main jet but no plastic washer whatsoever in the slide assembly. I have completely eliminated the backfire/popping though even when I shut it off, no poof. I am happy even if I have to leave the horn unhooked, jk. I'll figure it out eventually.

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by Routy on 11/14/10 at 10:17:37

If you stopped the backfiring completely, its done, finished, there is no hope left for it. It ain't no savage no more, its just another plain ole motorcycle now :'(

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by 99savage on 11/14/10 at 10:32:40


454A504B57514240484651230 wrote:
If you stopped the backfiring completely, its done, finished, there is no hope left for it. It ain't no savage no more, its just another plain ole motorcycle now :'(

Well, just dang it then. I didn't do it on purpose if it matters.

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by ebonysresearch on 11/14/10 at 15:40:19

Maybe dont blow the horn?  Or lift your tank back up and look for a rub point in the harness?  Or just unplug the horn?

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by Digger on 11/17/10 at 19:59:05


62716667787573717A25140 wrote:
It seems you have a smear of grease connecting 2 contacts.



I believe that to be highly unlikely.  The OP stated that he was using a dielectric grease.  Plus, we're talking about a 12 volt system here....hardly enough push to throw much of an arc.

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by Digger on 11/17/10 at 20:09:20


2D2D677562757371140 wrote:
......I had blown a fuse. Now every time I use the horn, I blow a fuse......



You might consider stripper 'er down again and wiggling the horn wires to see if you can find a short.

I made a tool to assist me in doing wiggle checks on the wires that saves me from blowing out lots of fuses during the test.

It is a license plate light fixture and harness I removed from an old pickup truck eighteen years ago when I was putting a rear bumper on it:


http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterE.jpg


I cut off the OEM connector and crimped on some spade connectors to the ends of the two wires:


http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterLeadsE.jpg


You can see where I filed down the spade connectors so that they would fit into the holder for the fuse.

I pull the fuse on the suspect circuit, plug my tester leads into the fuse holder, turn on the ignition switch, and wiggle away.  If I find a short to ground, the light gets really bright.  I do, however, find it useful to first disconnect the headlight and taillight bulbs to keep the test lamp from being too bright all of the time.

IHTH!

Title: Re: Blowing Fuses
Post by 99savage on 11/18/10 at 06:31:44


5A7779797B6C1E0 wrote:
[quote author=2D2D677562757371140 link=1289748823/0#0 date=1289748823]......I had blown a fuse. Now every time I use the horn, I blow a fuse......



You might consider stripper 'er down again and wiggling the horn wires to see if you can find a short.

I made a tool to assist me in doing wiggle checks on the wires that saves me from blowing out lots of fuses during the test.

It is a license plate light fixture and harness I removed from an old pickup truck eighteen years ago when I was putting a rear bumper on it:


http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterE.jpg


I cut off the OEM connector and crimped on some spade connectors to the ends of the two wires:


http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/Garage/CircuitTesterLeadsE.jpg


You can see where I filed down the spade connectors so that they would fit into the holder for the fuse.

I pull the fuse on the suspect circuit, plug my tester leads into the fuse holder, turn on the ignition switch, and wiggle away.  If I find a short to ground, the light gets really bright.  I do, however, find it useful to first disconnect the headlight and taillight bulbs to keep the test lamp from being too bright all of the time.

IHTH![/quote]

Thanks for the advice but I can't see the pics. I pretty sure my short is in a connector because each time I disconnect and reconnect, the "short" takes longer to cause a problem.

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