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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
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Message started by Rockin_John on 04/10/07 at 15:57:28

Title: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Rockin_John on 04/10/07 at 15:57:28

About to button up the Left Hand (L/H) CrankCase Cover (CCC), from doing a magneto and pickup coil remove and replace. The Clymer's manual doesn't mention using any sealant on the gasket; but I'm considering wiping on a thin layer of RTV (heat resistant silicone sealant) on both sides of the gasket, and also sealing around the rubber grommett where the ignition and charging wires run in/out.

I know not to use anything that sets up hard, as the old gasket was hard enough to scrape off without fighting a hard sealer (the factory didn't appear to use any.

The amount of oil left in the side case after draining caught me by surprise, and made a pretty good mess when I pulled it! Oh well, that's what they make oil dry for... Lucky I had half a bag on hand. ;)

I'd really appreciate any experienced advice/opinions on this before I button it up.

TIA,
John

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Rockin_John on 04/10/07 at 17:19:20

Oh, BTW... Here was the problem:

http://www.catoosatrading.com/images/vehicles/cycles/lh_crankcase/pickup_prob.JPG

Note the meter reading the connector to the ignition pickup coil at 1.619M ohm. Normal reading should be more like 200-240 ohms like this one from the salvage:

http://www.catoosatrading.com/images/vehicles/cycles/lh_crankcase/pickup_cure.JPG

Which is reading 213.2 ohms.

Hope that's all it takes to fix the bike. I'm anxious to take it for a test ride!!! 8) ;D

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Reelthing on 04/10/07 at 18:22:39

you may have already applied some stick'um to the gasket - but I sure don't think I would -

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Rockin_John on 04/10/07 at 22:52:44

Reelthing wrote:

you may have already applied some stick'um to the gasket - but I sure don't think I would -

Nope, nothing applied to it yet. I discovered my old supply of Loctite is dried out. So I can't continue re-assembly tonight anyways. The Loctite was the wrong type for the stator capscrews anyways. We used the stuff that was far too strong for light materials in Japanese motorcycles. Made for permanent assembly. I need to buy some of the weak stuff that you can get back apart later. So... I'm quickly reaching the point where I can do no more until the auto parts stores open tomorrow.

However, I do think I'll apply something around the rubber grommett that the wires go through. Maybe not the rest of the gasket, as it has a good clean surface and should be okay.

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Reelthing on 04/11/07 at 00:04:15

need to use the blue loctite - man that red stuff takes a torch to get lose

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Kropatchek on 04/11/07 at 06:47:38

No need for sticky stuff if there's a gasket. You may off-course put some around the rubber grommet, just to make sure.

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Savage_Rob on 04/11/07 at 07:38:33

The new Loctite sticks are great; a lot less mess.

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Max_Morley on 04/11/07 at 09:05:11

And the new gel version is better yet as it allows just the needed drop. FYI there is a green version that you can put on after assembly that uses capillary action to go in the threads, handy when you have an oops. Max

Title: Re: To seal or not to seal L/H CCC
Post by Rockin_John on 04/12/07 at 00:24:17

No real progress today on re-assembly. By the time I stopped at the auto parts store for thread lock, and shopped me a new inch/pound torque wrench, I only had a bit of time to actually work on the bike. I did pick up a dandy little roll-around work seat while crusing the tool stores.

http://www.catoosatrading.com/images/vehicles/cycles/lh_crankcase/torque_n_seat.JPG

My butt was getting real tired of that 5 gallon bucket and piece of foam rubber.

Then what little time I did have was taken up by having to remove the battery box and route wires. When I disassembled I pulled 'fishing' wires through with the old wires I pulled out; in hopes of pulling the new wires back through with the 'fish' wires. The white 'fish' wires can be seen in the picture above. It didn't work. The gap between the battery box and air box was too narrow to pull the molex connectors back through.

So... out comes the battery box. Now the wires are back in place, I can start re-assembly tomorrow (If I get the time). Takes me forever on a couple hour project because of constant interuptions, and breaks ;)