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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Rear shock adjustment /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1116292703 Message started by surplusguy on 05/16/05 at 18:18:23 |
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Title: Rear shock adjustment Post by surplusguy on 05/16/05 at 18:18:23 Hi to all! Been reading this board for 6 months now ever since I bought my 2000 Savage. Have learned a lot. But, I don't seen where anyone has addressed the issue of how to adjust the rear shock springs for pre-load. Supposed to be 5 settings. I found the hole in the spring lower seat and tried pushing a steel punch into it, but nothing moves and I can't turn the spring base. I have to almost stand on the foot pegs when going over rough railroad tracks to keep from flatening my tailbone. I'd like to adjust them to a lighter number. Anyone know how to do this? |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by babbalou on 05/16/05 at 18:37:17 I stuck an allen wrench in the hole & gave it a few good whacks with a hammer to rotate the shock. I couldn't budge it by hand. I couldn't remember the direction but my manual states that going counterclockwise lowers the preload. I found a few clicks makes a big difference. Full soft kicked me off the seat when it bottomed out hitting a sharp dip at 65mph. Painful! Fortunately I kept the bars straight 'till I was seated again. I'm on the 3rd position but I'm a little heavier than most. 8) |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by bobo383 on 05/16/05 at 18:41:22 I can turn mine by hand with the weight off the back of the bike. You're right about the hole at the bottom of the shock - it's to poke a punch into and wrestle the shock around. Might only be able to turn it one way if you're up against the lowest setting - which it sounds like you are - and that one way is probably into the tire, and the punch don't wanna go - is that it? Try lifting the back of the bike to get the weight off, with an engine lift or bike jack or 4x4 wood blocks, two buddies, etc. then you should be able to turn the shock bottom easier. Last ditch - remove the shocs and stick eht in a vise (by a bar thru the eye bolt) and twist thataway. Let us know how it works (or doesn't) |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by red2k1 on 05/16/05 at 18:42:32 surplusguy, You can also see "adjusting shocks" in the Technical Corner. My shocks were not adjusted for about two years and I had to spray a little WD40 into the adjusting area and after a few minutes the adjustment was easy. |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by surplusguy on 05/16/05 at 19:34:33 Thanks for the helpful replies. I sprayed some wd-40 in the hole and smacked it a couple times with a hammer and it moved! Counter clockwise from the top view seems to lower the spring base, so I assume that will result in more spring rebound and a softer ride. Anyone know different? Could only move one side 2 clicks and the other 3, but I think I ended up in the lowest setting. I only weigh 180 so maybe this will soften up the harder bounces somewithout bottoming out. Let you know after I get a chance to test it. |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by WD on 05/16/05 at 23:47:30 I have a bad back and still run mine on 5. And it bottoms out. Cheap shocks, I only weigh about 230 pounds. -WD |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by Greg_650 on 05/17/05 at 11:36:22 Here is the shock adjuster with the chrome cover removed. Both shocks turn the same direction, but the hole in the cover can be difficult to reach sometimes. You can turn the adjuster continuously 1-2-3-4-5...1-2-3-4-5 and so on if you turn it to the left(in picture). But if you turn it to the right, it will stop at the cam position between 1 and 5 and go no more. With the cover on, you have to get down on the floor and look up in the chrome cover to see where you are in the adjustment. Oh yeah, you might need to squirt some WD40 in there if it hasn't been turned in a while. http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/ShockAdjust02web.jpg |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by surplusguy on 05/17/05 at 18:41:50 Happy to report the adjustment on the rear suspension seemed to make the railroad crossing more tolerable. It didn't bottom out best I could tell and I was able to stay seated while crossing it at around 35 mph with less discomfort. Still not 100% certain what setting I'm in after moving them 2 positions. Greg_650's post should help answer that question. Will try that next. |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by Greg_650 on 05/20/05 at 14:55:47 surplusguy wrote:
AT over 200, I run at setting #3 and #4 if I have luggage. I took the chrome covers off just so I could change them without laying on the floor, too. |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by lancer on 05/20/05 at 21:59:26 The stock shocks are poor to be sure. I have replaced them with 14" Progressive's which has helped a lot. They control much better and the extra bit of travel is noticeable. |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by WD on 05/21/05 at 23:18:34 I'm getting ready to try a set of air shocks...adjustable ride height and comfort level. If that doesn't work, hardtail and sprung seat. Anything would be better than my worn out stockers. >:( -WD |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by Mr 650 on 05/22/05 at 00:20:34 I can see a springer seat, but you are supposed to be rehabing a bad back. How will struts/hardtail improve the ride? ??? WD wrote:
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by WD on 05/22/05 at 01:31:52 If it can't bottom out the rear end, no major extra "jolt" every time I hit a bump. Without the shock dampening, the springs can/do rebound pretty violently, causing an extra bounce or two, sometimes more. Sprung seats and lower rear tire pressure will actually absorb the jolts better than shocks with dead hydraulics. I rode rigid frames for years. I actually prefer them to a swingarm frame for ride quality and handling. Yes I have a bad back. Yes, rigids are also known as "bleeding kidney/fused vertebrae" bikes. However, a properly suspended seat takes out most of the problems associated with rigid frames. -WD Besides, I'm pretty sure the air shocks will work, I've got two sets I can play with and see if they will work. Work lets me mess with test fitting to my heart's content, my custom Savage ends up selling a lot of extra chopper parts on the days I ride to work... |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by Mr 650 on 05/23/05 at 02:02:17 The air shocks would appear to be the logical next step prior to struts. We await both your air shock and SU carb conversion report. send pics :) |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by WD on 05/23/05 at 08:00:15 I'm planning to test fit both sets this afternoon. If either or both are adequate, I'll need to come up with $200 quick fast and in a hurry. Struts, pre-made, are all of $20. Sprung solo to go with, $66. Whatever it takes, I'm not quite ready to plunk down the money on a bigger bike with real suspension (no matter how desperately I need to, the Savage is too small, even with high bars). -WD |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by surplusguy on 05/29/05 at 17:26:42 Finally had a chance to test the rear suspension with the shocks/springs set in position"1". For me at 180 pounds, the rough railroad track was not a problem and seems somewhat more comfortable than the original setting of "3". It did not bottom out and the longer spring travel should equal less felt shock. Problem I encountered while adjusting them on the bike was that I couldn't see what position they were in even with a light and looking up from underneath. Soooo, I removed them(one at a time per Clyer manual recommendation). What they don't tell you is that when you remove a shock, the rear suspension will compress and you better have a strong back or a buddy to lift the rear of the bike when re-installing them. BUT, it is much easier to see what position they are in that way. The first time I did it, they were in different positions. So, for me, position "1" works better. |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by WD on 05/29/05 at 22:02:54 Air shocks were a waste of time...one set had too small of mounting eyes, the other set blew up. >:( Good thing they were free... I used the Mikuni SU clone for a paper weight, the throttle shaft holes turned out to be oblong. I could fix it, but why bother... ??? Bobo was nice enough to send me some worked/upsized jets for my BS40. Next day off, the 188 main goes in...and the pilot gets drilled. I'm too broke to pay attention... ;)...let alone buy bike parts. -WD |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by Greg_650 on 05/30/05 at 05:53:22 WD wrote:
188 Main? Huh? |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by WD on 05/30/05 at 07:09:42 Greg, it's a drilled stocker. Specs out at roughly 188. He also sent me a 210!!! You might want to bring earplugs on the Ash Run..."microbike" should be throwing sparks and shooting flames the whole way... Now if I could just get my hands on a good set of shocks. Pretty sure I saw a set of 11 inch Progressives floating around the shop. Sure wish I could find a Triumph spec plunger frame... -WD |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by Greg_650 on 05/30/05 at 07:14:45 But why do you want those? I probably have a spare 155 in my garage that I could send...at least you won't be pumping out raw gas all over the mountain.... Back out to the garage. My baby is just about ready for some new photos ;D |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by WD on 05/30/05 at 07:42:38 One of the computers at work has a jetting spec program. I plugged in my mods, it spit out a 180 minimum jet size. Open pipe, just enough baffling for minor back pressure. And once the performance air filter goes in... My poor bike may end up dying a spectactular death eventually, but it won't be because I ran it too lean and holed the piston. If the oversizes are TOO oversized, I'll try some smaller jets. No biggie. I like to experiment. That's why I chopped it in the first place, to see if I could still build one out of whatever bike I had handy (that and my wife won't let me so much as TOUCH her Intruder...). Good mileage, excellent response to rider input, decent sound, clean lines...I'd like to find the designers of the seat and shocks that ruin an otherwise decent motorcycle and feed them their creations... >:( -WD |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by Greg_650 on 05/30/05 at 09:06:31 Okay, to each his own. I don't see where you think you've modified your bike to where it needs a 14% bigger jet size, but go for it. Maybe, I missed the post where you explained all that....but I did read the one where you have calculated a 28% better gas mileage and somehow these figures just have me all confused. |
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Title: Re: Rear shock adjustment Post by LS650RJM on 10/07/05 at 19:37:26 Great set of posts! Big help. I changed my 2002 Savage from setting #2 to setting #4. Can't wait to try it out. |
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